日本精品服飾店出售“原味”牛仔褲
“尾道丹寧計(jì)劃”精品服飾店位于日本廣島縣，是丹寧愛好者們尋找別致牛仔褲的“圣地”。這家店鋪名揚(yáng)日本甚至海外，其特色卻是售賣當(dāng)?shù)孛癖姶┻^一年以上的舊牛仔褲。
Selling used jeans, or any other type of clothing for that matter, is not exactly a new business model, but Onomichi Denim Project is not your average second-hand denim retailer. Created in 2013, as a collaborative effort between local designer Yoshiyuki Hayashi, textile expert Yukinobu Danjo, and Discoverlink Setouchi, an organization that aims to supports local industry, the minimalist boutique aims to draw attention to the city’s top-quality craftsmanship and its people in a unique way. Plus, while used denim is generally sold at a discount, these particular jeans actually get about twice as expensive after being worn by somebody almost daily, for at least a year.
嚴(yán)格意義上說，出售二手牛仔褲或者其他種類的服飾并非某種新興商業(yè)模式，但“尾道丹寧計(jì)劃”也絕非你心中普通的二手牛仔褲零售店。該店創(chuàng)立于2013年，由本土設(shè)計(jì)師Yoshiyuki Hayashi、紡織專家Yukinobu Danjo和致力于支持本地產(chǎn)業(yè)的Discoverlink Setouchi機(jī)構(gòu)聯(lián)手打造。這家極簡主義精品店力求以獨(dú)特的方式吸引外界關(guān)注本市的頂級工藝和匠人。除此之外，盡管二手牛仔褲一般都是打折出售，但這家店里被別人天天穿了至少一整年的舊褲子售價(jià)卻是原價(jià)的兩倍。
Denim aficionados know that jeans usually require breaking to look their best, but there’s an art to how to wear, wash and dry them to achieve that desired look. That’s what makes Onomichi Denim Project so special – they hand-pick the wearers from the local community and closely monitor their transformation over the course of one year. Wearers rotate through two pairs of jeans that they promise to wear almost every day for the entire period, and bring them to the shop every week, to be laundered at a special denim processing facility, which ensures that every pair retains the evidence of each wearer’s life and work.
丹寧愛好者們都知道歷經(jīng)滄桑的牛仔褲穿起來最好看，但為了達(dá)到理想的穿著效果，牛仔褲的穿著、洗滌、烘干其實(shí)自有一套門路。正是因?yàn)檫@樣，“尾道丹寧計(jì)劃”才如此別具一格——工作人員在當(dāng)?shù)馗鱾€(gè)社區(qū)親自挑選褲子的穿著者，一年中密切監(jiān)測牛仔褲的變化。選中的人們各有兩條牛仔褲輪流換穿，還要承諾一年內(nèi)幾乎每天都穿牛仔褲，他們要每周把褲子帶去店里，送去一家特殊的牛仔布加工廠進(jìn)行清洗，以保存每條褲子上穿著者的生活和工作痕跡。
Meridian Magazine reports that Onomichi Denim Project recruits wearers from various walks of life to achieve various patterns. For example, a pair of jeans worn by a fisherman has faded lines left by knee-high rubber boots, a factory worker’s will feature the marks of a year’s worth of iron powder penetrating the fabric, while a wild boar hunter’s jeans will have permanent traces of blood. Every pair is obviously unique.
據(jù)《子午線》雜志報(bào)道，此店雇傭來自社會(huì)各界的人士，以創(chuàng)造多種多樣的圖案。例如，漁民穿過的牛仔褲上有高筒膠鞋留下的褪色線條，工廠工人穿過的褲子上可以看到一年里鐵粉浸入織物的印記，而野豬獵手穿過的褲子上沾有洗不掉的血跡。顯而易見，每條褲子都是獨(dú)一無二的。
But getting people to agree to wearing one or two pairs of jeans for an entire year was tough, in the beginning. Some were intrigued by the idea but were reluctant to wear jeans almost exclusively, especially in the hot summer months, while others simply wondered who in their right mind would want to buy used jeans at premium prices. But soon a local architect jumped at the opportunity, thinking it would be fun, and others joined the program as well, to help boost their city’s travel industry.
但是，起初說服人們把一兩條褲子穿一整年可不是什么容易的事。一些人對這個(gè)點(diǎn)子很感興趣卻不愿意整天只穿牛仔褲，尤其是在炎熱的夏季，另一些人卻懷疑正常人誰會(huì)愿意付高價(jià)買這些二手牛仔褲。但不久后，這個(gè)計(jì)劃就得到了一名本地建筑師的賞識(shí)，覺得這很有趣，其他人也加入其中，為刺激本市旅游業(yè)發(fā)展獻(xiàn)力。
When the pre-wearing period ends, each pair of jeans is washed according to color, hang-dried or tumbled, checked for individuality, tagged with detailed descriptions and put on sale at the minimalist Onomichi Denim Project boutique for anywhere between ¥25,000 ($215) and ¥48,000 ($415). That’s about twice as they usually cost when new, but these are not just any jeans, they are cultural artifacts.
在穿著時(shí)段結(jié)束后，每條牛仔褲都會(huì)按顏色洗滌、風(fēng)干或甩干，工作人員會(huì)檢查每條褲子的獨(dú)特品質(zhì)，打上寫有詳細(xì)描述的標(biāo)簽，放在“尾道丹寧計(jì)劃”精品店內(nèi)出售，售價(jià)為2萬5千日元(215美元)到4萬8千日元(415美元)不等。雖然價(jià)格是原價(jià)的兩倍，但這些二手牛仔褲可不是一般的褲子，而是文化手工藝品。
It’s not clear whether some of the proceeds from the sales go to wearers, but most of them are just happy to not have to spend money on jeans for a year.
該店賣出的利潤是否會(huì)分給穿著者尚不可知，但至少他們中的大部分人都為一整年不用花錢買牛仔褲而感到開心。
