(鳳凰古城)
Ladies and gentlemen,
Good morning. Welcome to the ancient town of Fenghuang. The ancient town of Fenghuang you are visiting now was rated as one of the two most beautiful small towns in China by the eminent New Zealand writer, Rewi Alley. Bordering on the scenic areas of Mengdong River in Northwest Hunan and Fanjing Mountain in Guizhou, the town provides access roads to Huaihua, Jishou of Hunan and Tongren of Guizhou. It is the birthplace of the illustrious Chinese writer, Shen Congwen, Picturesque in scenery, abounding with historical sites, the town of Fenghuang makes an ideal sightseeing destination. The town boasts eight notable tourist sights: Sunrise at Dongling, Nanhua’s Wooded Hills , the Playful Fish Dragon Pool, the Mountain Temples' Bell Tolls, the Dazzling Peaks, Moonlit Bridges on Streams, Lanjing Woodcutters’ Folk Songs, and Fange's Rolling Waves. Ancient towers, quaint compounds dating back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, and flagstone-paved street remain a common sight in the town. In the town's vicinity, there are such striking sights such as the National Forest Park of Nanhua Mountain, the well-preserved Ancient Tang Dynasty town of Huangsiqiao, the Underground Qiliang Cavern Arts Palace, miraculous, rocky, and wind-driven Jianduoduo Waterfall, mysterious Gaodabu Gorge, General-like Three-gate Cave Rock, and scenic Tunliang, Fenghuang, Elephant Trunk, Tianxing and Lale Hills.
The town is not only a scenic area but also the birthplace of great men. Zheng Guohong, commanding officer of Chuzhou of Zhejiang, Tian Xinghu, provincial military commander of Guizhou, Xiong Xiling, the first Prime Minister of the Republic of China, Shen Congwen, an illustrious Chinese writer and Huang Yongyu, an outstanding Chinese painter are Fenghuang natives.
The Former Residence of Shen Congwen
Walk down a flagstone-paved road, you will get to No.10 Zhongying Street. The house was the former residence of Mr. Shen Cong-wen, an illustrious Chinese writer and archeo-logist. The house was built by his grandfather, Shen Hongfu, in the first year of the Qing Dynasty Tongzhi Emperor's reign (1886). Shen Congwen was born on December 28, 1902 in this combination Ming and Qing style quadrangle like house. He spent his boyhood and formative years here. His family's financial situation declined when he was young. In 1917 Mr. Shen left his hometown and joined the local army at the age of 15 and then spent years roaming around along Yuan River, and You River, witnessing war-torn areas. From these experiences, he developed a great interest in writing. In 1919 Mr. Shen went to Beijing and started his writing career with great difficulties. His literary works like Border Town and Northwest Hunan made him well-known in Chinese literary circles, and he became almost as famous as Lu Xun, who was 20 years older than him. Following the 1950s, Mr. Shen devoted himself to the study of traditional Chinese garments, writing The Study of Traditional Chinese Garments, a remarkable academic work in the field.
Mr. Shen's works and his personality share the following qualities: natural, honest, diligent, profound, and dignified. Mr. Shen wrote literary works of five million words in his lifetime, a great contribution to the treasure house of world literature, leaving behind him priceless historical resources in the study of Old China and Old Northwest Hunan.
The Former Residence of Xiong Xiling
As we pass through Fenghuang's Hall of Fame, which is a side arm of the Confucius Temple, a flagstone path takes us to No.10 Wenxing Street. This is the former residence of Mr. Xiong Xiling,the first prime minister of the Republic of China.
Xiong Xiling, who styled himself as Bingsan, was born in the small bungalow on July 23, 1870. Even in his boyhood, he earned a name of Hunan Prodigy. He was a successful candidate in the imperial examina-tions at the county level at the age of 15, at the provincial level at the age of 21, and to crown it all, a palace graduate and awarded a title of a great scholar in the Imperial Academy at the age of 24.
Having made a name in the world, he vigorously campaigned for constitutional reform and modernization. He started the reformist periodical, the so-called Hunan Newspaper, and founded the School of Current Political Affairs and the Changdexilu Normal School. As famous as Tan Sitong in Hunan, he was one of leading forces in the 1898 Constitutional Reform and Modernization Movement. Some of his students became outstanding revolutionaries such as Xiang Jingyu, Lin Boqu, Teng Daiyuan, Song Jiaoren (a leftist in the Nationalist Party) and Jiang Yiwu (Commander-in-chief in the Wuchang Uprising). He served as financial inspector of three northeastern pro-vinces, governor of Rehe province and finance minister of the republic. In 1913 he became as first prime minister of the Republic of China. The government he worked in was eulogized as ‘Cabinet of Talents’. Yuan Shikai dissolved the cabinet and removed Xiong from premiership for his criticism of Yuan's dictatorial rule. After leaving the govemment, Xiong Xiling started a number of businesses and undertook charity work. He ran the Xiangshan Orphanage and when Fenghuang County was struck by a severe drought in 1925, ruining the rice harvest, Mr. Xiong raised 100,000 silver dollars, 40,000 of which were donated by Mr. Mei Lanfang, an eminent Peking Opera actor, for relief efforts. In his late life, Mr. Xiong served as president of the Chinese Red Cross and threw himself into field rescue work in the War against Japanese Aggression, making outstanding contributions in fighting Japanese invaders. Mr. Xiong Xiling died of a disease at the age of 67 in Hong Kong on December 5, 1937.
The Gate Tower and Old City Wall
Fenghuang County includes an historic landmark that was formerly known as “Zhen Gan”. It was the govemment seat of five stockade villages during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The city wall consists of mud that was revamped with bricks in 1556. During the reign of Emperor Kangxi, the town acted as the govemment seat first of the directly affiliated district, then as the district deputy governor seat, and finally as the military headquarters for the River Chen and Yuan's local forces. The city wall was rebuilt with stone in 1715 during Qing Emperor Kangxi's reign, It is 2,000 meters in circumference. Four gates to the town were built on four sides, each with a tall gate tower: the Eastern Gate (the Gate of Sheng Heng) , the Southern Gate (The Gate of Jing Lan), the Western Gate (the Gate of Fu Cheng) and the North Gate (The Gate of Bi Hui). Xue Yue, the commander-in-chief of the Ninth Theater of Operations and then governor of the Nationalist Party Hunan Provincial Government, argued in 1940 that the walled towns were sitting ducks for air strikes and were difficult to evacuate. He further argued that once walled towns fell to enemies, it was hard to retake them. He therefore ordered that all the city walls in Hunan's counties be pulled down. As a result, all the walls and gates were dismantled, save for the Eastern Gate and Northern Gate. These two gates were kept in place to guard the town against floods, but their battlements and forts were removed. The ruins of the broken walls remain visible between the Eastern and Northern Gates.
A road along the ruins of broken walls passing through the Northern Gate takes you to a souvenirs shopping street. Six-hue Store there offers tourists a great variety of Miao national minority folk arts and handicrafts. You may find rare masterpieces of folk arts and handicraft there: tie-dyed products made by Mrs. Wu Jinglian, a UN-certified master artist of folk arts and handicrafts, and Mr. Xiong's batik printed Chinese paintings of water colour, rated as first class by the eminent Chinese painter, Zhang Ding.
The Bridge of Rainbow and the Scenic Area of Sha wan
This is the Rainbow Bridge, built during Ming Dynasty Hongwu Emperor's reign and then renovated in 1670. There used to be a storied pavilion on stilts on the bridge housing a dozen shops in it. Unfortunately, the pavilion and its archways were torn down in 1956 owing to a road expansion project.
Standing under the bridge there are a row of century-old stilted houses. Down below, dragon boat races, a traditional Fenghuang sports event, are regularly held. During the Moon Cake Festival, local people turn two freight boats into a racing boat and compete in a boat race in this small river.
Walking down the bridge, one comes in sight of three scenic spots in Shawan: the Moonlit Bridges over Streams, the playful Fish in Dragon Pool, and the Dazzling Peaks. There used to be eight scenic wonders here, but only three remain now.
This is the Palace of Longevity, also known as the Water Palace Temple. It was built by businessmen from Jiangxi. Therefore, it is customarily called the Lodge of Jiangxi. The Palace of Longevity is the biggest human structure in Fenghuang, covering an area of over 4,000 square meters.
各位朋友:
大家好!歡迎來鳳凰古城游覽?,F(xiàn)在大家所在的地方,是被新西蘭著名作家路易·艾黎先生稱贊為中國(guó)兩座最美麗的小城之一的湖南鳳凰古城。這里與風(fēng)景名勝區(qū)湘西猛洞河、貴州梵凈山毗鄰,位于湖南懷化、吉首和貴州銅仁三地之間,是著名作家沈從文的故鄉(xiāng)。鳳凰風(fēng)景秀麗,名勝古跡很多,歷來是人們游覽的勝地,自古就有東嶺迎輝、南華疊翠、龍?zhí)稘O火、山寺晨鐘、奇峰挺秀、溪橋夜月、蘭徑樵歌和梵閣回濤八大景觀。城內(nèi),古代城樓、明清古院和石板小街現(xiàn)在仍是風(fēng)采依然;城外,南華山國(guó)家森林公園、唐代修建的至今仍保存完好的黃絲橋古城、地下藝術(shù)宮殿奇梁洞和神奇的風(fēng)動(dòng)巖、壯觀的尖多朵瀑布、神秘的高達(dá)不峽、三門洞將軍巖以及如畫的屯糧山、鳳凰山、象鼻山、天星山、臘樂山都在向您招手。
鳳凰不但風(fēng)景秀美,而且人杰地靈。浙江總兵鄭國(guó)鴻、貴州提督田興恕等民族英雄和中華民國(guó)第一任內(nèi)閣總理熊希齡、著名作家沈從文和著名畫家黃永玉都是鳳凰人。
沈從文故居
沿著石板小路,我們來到中營(yíng)街10號(hào),這里就是我國(guó)著名作家和考古學(xué)家沈從文先生的故居。
這所建筑是沈從文的祖父沈洪富于清同治元年(公元1866年)所建。1902年12月28日,沈從文先生就誕生在這座具有明清建筑風(fēng)格的四合院里,并在這里度過了他的童年和少年時(shí)期。1917年,沈先生15歲時(shí),因家道中落,參加湘西土軍,離開了家鄉(xiāng),輾轉(zhuǎn)于沅、澧、酉水流域,親歷了如火如荼的戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng),從而激發(fā)了創(chuàng)作欲望。1919年,沈先生只身來到北京,開始了他的從文生涯,創(chuàng)作了《邊城》、《湘西》等一系列文學(xué)作品,不久就蜚聲中國(guó)文壇,幾乎與年長(zhǎng)他20歲的魯迅先生齊名。20世紀(jì)50年代之后,沈先生潛心于中國(guó)古代服飾的研究,寫出了驚世之作——《中國(guó)古代服飾研究》。
沈先生的作品與人品表現(xiàn)出了強(qiáng)烈的一致:自然、厚樸、謙虛、勤奮、博大而凝重。沈先生一生所創(chuàng)作的500多萬字的作品,是世界的文學(xué)瑰寶,給后人研究舊中國(guó)和舊湘西留下了寶貴的遺產(chǎn)。
熊希齡故居
順著小巷的砂石板小道,從大成殿——即孔子廟的挑檐下經(jīng)過,我們來到了文星街10號(hào),這里是中華民國(guó)第一任內(nèi)閣總理熊希齡先生的故居。熊希齡,號(hào)秉三,1870年7月23日出生在這間小平房里。熊先生少年時(shí)就有湖南神童之稱,15歲中秀才,2l歲中舉人,24歲中進(jìn)士,被授予翰林院庶吉士(俗稱點(diǎn)翰林)。
熊先生成名后,積極主張維新變法.曾創(chuàng)辦《湘報(bào)》、時(shí)務(wù)學(xué)堂和常德西路師范學(xué)校,是湖南與譚嗣同齊名的維新派中堅(jiān)。我國(guó)的一些著名革命家如向警予、林伯渠、滕代遠(yuǎn)、國(guó)民黨左派宋教仁、武昌起義總指揮蔣翊武等都是熊先生的學(xué)生。后來,熊先生出任東三省財(cái)政監(jiān)理官、熱河都統(tǒng)、財(cái)政總長(zhǎng)等職,民國(guó)三年(公元1913年)就任中華民國(guó)第一任政府總理,當(dāng)時(shí)的這一任政府被輿論界稱為“才子內(nèi)閣”。后來,因熊先生反對(duì)袁世凱獨(dú)裁,被袁世凱逼迫解散內(nèi)閣,辭去總理職務(wù)。從此,熊先生轉(zhuǎn)而獻(xiàn)身實(shí)業(yè)和慈善事業(yè),并開辦香山慈幼院,收養(yǎng)了一大批孤兒。民國(guó)十四年(公元1925年),鳳凰縣遭大旱,絕大部分田土無收,熊先生知道消息之后,送來賑災(zāi)款大洋10萬(其中著名京劇表演藝術(shù)家梅蘭芳先生捐大洋4萬元),救助了很多災(zāi)民。晚年,熊先生就任中華民國(guó)紅十字會(huì)會(huì)長(zhǎng),積極投身抗日戰(zhàn)場(chǎng)戰(zhàn)地救護(hù),其功德可昭日月。1937年12月5日,熊希齡先生病故于香港,享年67歲。
城樓及古城墻
鳳凰縣城所在地原名鎮(zhèn)竿,元明兩朝為五寨長(zhǎng)官司所在地,當(dāng)時(shí)建有土城,明嘉靖三十五年(公元1556年)改土城為磚城。清康熙年間,鳳凰直隸廳通判、總兵和辰沅水靖兵備道衙門設(shè)在這里??滴跷迨哪?公元1715年)建石城。石城周長(zhǎng)2000米有余。開設(shè)四座城門,東門叫升恒門,南門叫靜讕門,西門叫阜城門,北門叫碧輝門。各有巍峨的城樓。1940年,國(guó)民黨第九戰(zhàn)區(qū)司令兼湖南政府主席薛岳以“城堡一旦落于敵手,反攻不易,而不利于空襲疏散”為由,通令所屬各縣將所有城墻拆除。鳳凰東、北二門因防水需要,僅拆除城垛碉樓,其他城門全部拆除。所以,現(xiàn)在只能看到東、北二門連接其間的半壁城墻。
沿著半壁舊城墻,出東門,是旅游商品一條街。這里的六色坊有很多苗族的民間工藝品供大家選購(gòu)和參觀,獲得聯(lián)合國(guó)頒證的民間工藝美術(shù)大師吳景蓮(吳花花)女士的扎染工藝品和東門內(nèi)熊氏蠟染國(guó)畫更是別具一格,受到廣大游客的好評(píng)。
虹橋及沙灣風(fēng)景區(qū)
現(xiàn)在來到虹橋,這座橋始建于明洪武年間,清康熙九年(公元1670年)加修,橋面上原有吊腳樓亭,亭內(nèi)設(shè)有12家店鋪,1956年因修公路,原樓亭和兩側(cè)牌坊均被拆除,就成了現(xiàn)在這個(gè)樣子。
橋下是一排有百年歷史的舊吊腳樓。吊腳樓下是鳳凰傳統(tǒng)體育節(jié)目——賽龍舟的地方。每到端午節(jié),人們就將兩只運(yùn)貨的木船捆扎起來,在這小河里一爭(zhēng)高下。
下了橋,步入沙灣,可以看到鳳凰縣舊時(shí)八大景中的“溪橋夜月”、“龍?zhí)稘O火”“奇峰挺秀”三大景。
現(xiàn)在看到的是萬壽官,又叫水府廟,因?yàn)槭墙魃倘怂?,大家?xí)慣叫它江西會(huì)館。萬壽官占地4000多平方米,是鳳凰最大的民間建筑物。
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