“可見(jiàn)修補(bǔ)”是對(duì)時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的反叛

“可見(jiàn)修補(bǔ)”是對(duì)時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的反叛

My first experience with "visible mending" was when I dropped off a bag of my children's worn-out jeans to a local seamstress and she returned them with brightly colored, patterned patches on all the knees, their lives miraculously extended by several more years. Both my kids and I loved those pants, so unique and impossible to buy, thanks to their handmade upgrades.

我對(duì)“看得見(jiàn)的縫補(bǔ)”的第一次體驗(yàn)是，我把孩子們穿的破牛仔褲交給當(dāng)?shù)氐呐每p，她把那些顏色鮮艷、有圖案的補(bǔ)丁還給了我，孩子們的壽命奇跡般地又延長(zhǎng)了好幾年。我和我的孩子都喜歡這條褲子，因?yàn)樗鼈兪鞘止ど?jí)的，所以很獨(dú)特，買(mǎi)不到。

Visible mending (VM) is different from traditional mending in that it makes the repair a focal point, rather than blending it into the original garment. There are many reasons for this, from drawing attention to the fact that a garment's lifespan has been prolonged and challenging the notion that secondhand clothes are only worn by the poor, to making a statement about fast fashion's reputation for disintegration or simply adding a personalized touch.

可見(jiàn)縫補(bǔ)(VM)與傳統(tǒng)縫補(bǔ)不同，它使縫補(bǔ)成為焦點(diǎn)，而不是將縫補(bǔ)與原衣服混在一起。造成這種現(xiàn)象的原因有很多，從讓人們注意到一件衣服的壽命延長(zhǎng)了，挑戰(zhàn)了只有窮人才穿二手衣服的觀念，到對(duì)快時(shí)尚瓦解的名聲發(fā)表聲明，或者只是增加了一種個(gè)性化的感覺(jué)。

Sara Thompson / Flickr

Kate Sekules is a well-known advocate for visible mending. The British-born, Brooklyn-based writer, clothes historian, and mending instructor has a new book coming out in September called "MEND! A Refashioning Manual and Manifesto" (Penguin Random House, 2020). It is a call to action for clothes lovers of all skill levels to take needle and thread to their beloved garments. She reassures readers that anyone can do it.

凱特·塞克勒斯是著名的可視修補(bǔ)倡導(dǎo)者。這位生于英國(guó)、住在布魯克林的作家、服裝歷史學(xué)家和縫補(bǔ)教師的新書(shū)《縫補(bǔ)!》將于9月出版。一本重塑手冊(cè)和宣言”(企鵝蘭登書(shū)屋，2020年)。這是對(duì)所有技術(shù)水平的服裝愛(ài)好者的行動(dòng)呼吁，把針線和他們心愛(ài)的衣服。她向讀者保證，任何人都可以做到。

Sekules spends the first several chapters explaining why practicing visible mending matters so much. She writes at length about the current fashion industry, and how notoriously destructive it is, from the vast quantities of textile and plastic waste and toxic runoff poisoning rivers around the world, to the horrific conditions in which garment workers work. She has little time or patience for corporate social responsibility (CSR) departments claiming they're taking action for human rights and the climate.

塞克勒斯用前幾章解釋了為什么練習(xí)可見(jiàn)修補(bǔ)如此重要。她詳細(xì)描寫(xiě)了當(dāng)前的時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)，以及它的破壞性是多么臭名昭著，從世界各地大量的紡織和塑料廢料和有毒徑流污染河流，到制衣工人可怕的工作環(huán)境。對(duì)于企業(yè)社會(huì)責(zé)任(CSR)部門(mén)聲稱(chēng)他們正在為人權(quán)和氣候采取行動(dòng)，她沒(méi)有時(shí)間和耐心。

So, rather than wait around for the Big Guys to clean up their acts, we individuals can effect tiny yet meaningful changes by picking up our needles and thread and wearing our clothes for longer.

因此，與其坐等大家伙收拾殘局，我們個(gè)人可以通過(guò)撿起針線、穿更長(zhǎng)時(shí)間的衣服來(lái)實(shí)現(xiàn)微小而有意義的改變。

Sekules' book offers step-by-step instructions for assembling a mending kit and learning basic stitches, as well as techniques for dealing with various garment-related problems. She explains how to make an underpatch, a sort of reverse appliqué; how to ring a hole with eyelet stitch or a looser porthole; how to cover a hole or stain with a pocket; how to add descriptive words or "statemends" to a garment, drawing attention to its flaws; and how to add decorative "embellishmends". Perhaps most amusing is the Greasytee fix, in which Sekules stitches circles around grease stains on her t-shirts. Similar is Paintypants, when she covers tiny splotches of paint with colored thread, using a rainbow effect.

塞克勒斯的書(shū)提供了如何組裝修補(bǔ)工具包和學(xué)習(xí)基本針腳的步驟指導(dǎo)，以及處理各種服裝相關(guān)問(wèn)題的技巧。她解釋了如何做下補(bǔ)，一種反向貼花;如何用網(wǎng)眼針或更寬松的舷窗圈孔;如何用口袋蓋住洞或污漬;如何在一件衣服上添加描述性詞語(yǔ)或“陳述詞”，以引起人們對(duì)其缺陷的注意;以及如何添加裝飾性的“修飾修補(bǔ)”。也許最有趣的是Greasytee的固定，Sekules在她t恤上的油漬上縫上一圈。類(lèi)似的是顏料，當(dāng)她用彩色線覆蓋小斑點(diǎn)的顏料，使用彩虹的效果。

As someone who does not know how to sew at all, I tend to shy away from any mending projects (hence the seamstress to whom I deliver damaged items for repair). But Sekules' book does a remarkable job at making me think I actually could do this myself – and even want to try. A needle is less daunting than a sewing machine, and the diagrams in the book are so clear and simple that I am inspired to tackle my next holey t-shirt.

作為一個(gè)完全不懂縫紉的人，我傾向于回避任何修補(bǔ)項(xiàng)目(因此我把損壞的東西交給女裁縫修理)。但是塞克勒斯的書(shū)讓我覺(jué)得我自己也能做到——甚至想嘗試一下?？p衣針沒(méi)有縫紉機(jī)那么可怕，書(shū)中的圖表是如此的清晰和簡(jiǎn)單，以至于我有靈感去處理我的下一件有洞的t恤。