如何穿出特朗普眼中的“女人味”

09 如何穿出特朗普眼中的“女人味”

特朗普上任之后，不僅頻出新政，注重“里子”，同時也不忘“面子工程”，向團隊成員提出了嚴(yán)格的著裝要求。其中有趣的是：女士應(yīng)該“像個女人”。

Donald Trump is trying to implement some sartorial rigour within his administration.According to intelligence from the White House, the president believes his staff should “have a certain look” and aspire to “be sharply dressed”.Men should wear a tie.Female colleagues have been told to “dress like a woman”, whatever that means.Perhaps he wants them to swing through the White House on tree vines, wearing jungle pelts in the manner of Edgar Rice Burroughs' Jane?

唐納德·特朗普(Donald Trump)試圖在其政府內(nèi)推行某種嚴(yán)格的著裝規(guī)定。根據(jù)來自白宮的消息，這位總統(tǒng)認(rèn)為他的員工應(yīng)該“有一種儀表”，注重“筆挺的著裝”。男士應(yīng)該戴領(lǐng)帶。女性工作人員則被告知應(yīng)“穿得像個女人”——誰知道這是什么意思。或許，他希望她們像埃德加·賴斯·巴勒斯（Edgar Rice Burroughs，《人猿泰山》作者）筆下的珍妮一樣，身著叢林皮毛，在樹藤上蕩過白宮？

那么特朗普眼中什么樣才是穿得“像個女人”呢？英國《金融時報》時尚主編喬·埃利森表示：或許可以從其團隊內(nèi)女性官員凱莉安妮·康韋的穿著中看出端倪。

Kellyanne Conway

For comic opportunities alone, I hope Trump has directed his female staffers to follow the lead of Kellyanne Conway in their efforts to look “l(fā)ike a woman”.The counsellor to the president is the undisputed star of this fashion circus: a feisty, former cheerleader who, to judge by the state of her inauguration ensemble, takes her style inspiration from the Peruvian refugee Paddington Bear.

僅僅為了搞笑，我希望特朗普已向其女性員工發(fā)出指示，在努力看起來“像個女人”方面，要追隨凱莉安妮·康韋(Kellyanne Conway)的引領(lǐng)。這位特朗普的顧問是這一時尚馬戲團中無可爭議的明星：從特朗普就職儀式上她的著裝判斷，這位爭強好勝的前啦啦隊長的穿搭靈感，來源于秘魯難民“巴丁頓熊” (Paddington Bear)。

Conway's taste is mesmerisingly brutal; a muddle of lurid jackets and look-at-me ensembles in primary brights—citrine, vermilion, blood—that are every bit as jarring as her coarse rhetoric.She embraces the type of womanly power glamour observed by weather girls and newscasters: her sleeveless dresses testify to a woman's right to bare arms or, in the case of the ruffled gold jacket she wore to canvass at Trump Tower last November, the right to resemble a gilded valance sheet.But time has been cruel to Conway.Where once she might have been described as perky, the first weeks in office have lent her sleep-starved, kohl-rimmed looks the ravaged expression of a raptor.I can't wait to see what she'll wear next.

康韋的品味之粗俗令人過目難忘；花里胡哨的外套混搭聚焦全場目光的檸檬黃、朱紅、血紅色等各種艷色套裝，就和她粗魯?shù)拇朕o一樣刺目。她奉行女天氣預(yù)報員和新聞播音員的那套女性魅力規(guī)則：她的無袖連衣裙宣示著女性裸露手臂的權(quán)利，去年11月她在特朗普大廈(Trump Tower)游說拉票時穿的那件褶邊金色外套則代表女性有權(quán)穿得像裝飾金邊的床幔一樣。但是時間對康韋很殘酷。一度人們或許還可以用“活潑”這樣的詞來形容她，特朗普上任頭幾個星期后，她那張嚴(yán)重缺覺、頂著黑眼圈的臉看起來像迅猛龍一樣兇。我迫不及待地想看看她接下來會穿什么。

Paddington Bear

Kellyanne Conway

Whatever about “dressing sharp”.It must take a concerted effort, a willingness even, to look so collectively dreadful.It's also in keeping with the evolution (or should that be devolution?) of world-leader style.

不管“衣著筆挺”意味著什么，白宮員工必定需要一起努力、甚至抱著強大決心，才能集體穿得如此可怕。這還與世界領(lǐng)袖衣著風(fēng)格的進化（或者我們該說退化？）保持了一致。

Similarly, British prime minister Theresa May's affection for a voluminous tartan suit by Vivienne Westwood has been much discussed in recent weeks.As with the fabled leopard-print shoes in which she strode to power, May has worn the suits in moments of political—and personal—vulnerability, to announce her determination to lead the Conservative party, for example, or lay down a challenging Brexit strategy.Like Spicer's tie, the tartan suit has proven a nifty decoy: capable of sucking up headlines and loud enough to distract from the political business of the day.

類似的，英國首相特里薩·梅(Theresa May)鐘愛的一套Vivienne Westwood寬松款格子呢西裝最近也受到了熱議。就像在大步邁向權(quán)力時穿著已經(jīng)成為傳說的豹紋鞋一樣，梅總是在容易遭受政治攻擊或者人身攻擊的時候穿上這套西裝，比如在她宣布決定領(lǐng)導(dǎo)保守黨時，或者在制定引起爭議的英國退歐策略時。就像斯派塞的領(lǐng)帶一樣，事實證明梅的這套格子呢西裝是一個絕佳的誘餌：不僅能夠吸引報紙頭條，還因為足夠引人注目，能夠分散人們對當(dāng)日的政治事務(wù)的注意力。

Theresa May

It may look daft, but the wacky wardrobe is a formidable weapon: bad clothes stimulate alternative conversations, they're diverting and normalising.Conway's flowerpot hats are awful, Bannon's flak jacket is filthy and Spicer's ties are plain obnoxious, but they all throw light on the individual that wears them.They give the wearer personality.Even more significantly, the clothes are humanising: one could almost feel sorry for Spicer; while Bannon's gorilla-like bearing has become as morbidly fascinating as his guerrilla-style of governance.It's all quite stupefying to behold—which, presumably, is the point.

古怪的著裝可能看起來很傻，但這是一種強大的武器：糟糕的著裝會制造另類的話題，不僅轉(zhuǎn)移注意力，還變得正?；?。康韋的花盆形帽子很難看，班農(nóng)的飛行員夾克看起來很臟，斯派塞的領(lǐng)帶簡直令人作嘔，但這些著裝都是穿著它們的人的注解，都賦予了穿著者個性。更重要的是，這些著裝帶來了人情味：人們幾乎要為斯派塞感到難過了；而班農(nóng)大猩猩一樣的舉止變得和他游擊隊式的治理風(fēng)格一樣，有了一種詭異的迷人感。這些衣裝看起來令人目瞪口呆——這大概就是重點所在。

詞匯總結(jié)

rigour [?r?g?(r)]

n.嚴(yán)厲，嚴(yán)酷，苛刻

Donald Trump is trying to implement some sartorial rigour within his administration.

唐納德·特朗普(Donald Trump)試圖在其政府內(nèi)推行某種嚴(yán)格的著裝規(guī)定。

ensemble [?n's?mb(?)l]

n.全體；總效果；全套服裝；全套家具；合奏組

adv.同時

To judge by the state of her inauguration ensemble, takes her style inspiration from the Peruvian refugee Paddington Bear.

從特朗普就職儀式上她的著裝判斷，這位爭強好勝的前啦啦隊長的穿搭靈感，來源于秘魯難民“巴丁頓熊” (Paddington Bear)。

coarse [k??s]

adj.粗糙的；粗俗的；下等的

A muddle of lurid jackets and look-at-me ensembles in primary brights—citrine, vermilion, blood—that are every bit as jarring as her coarse rhetoric.

花里胡哨的外套混搭聚焦全場目光的檸檬黃、朱紅、血紅色等各種艷色套裝，就和她粗魯?shù)拇朕o一樣刺目。

kohl [k??l]

n.化妝墨，眼影粉

rim [r?m]

n.（圓形器皿的）邊，緣，框； 輪緣；

v.環(huán)繞（圓形或環(huán)形物的）邊緣； 鑲邊；

The first weeks in office have lent her sleep-starved, kohl-rimmed looks the ravaged expression of a raptor.

特朗普上任頭幾個星期后，她那張嚴(yán)重缺覺、頂著黑眼圈的臉看起來像迅猛龍一樣兇。

stride [stra?d]

n.大步；步幅；進展

v.跨過；大踏步走過；跨坐在；大步行走

As with the fabled leopard-print shoes in which she strode to power, May has worn the suits in moments of political—and personal—vulnerability.

就像在大步邁向權(quán)力時穿著已經(jīng)成為傳說的豹紋鞋一樣，梅總是在容易遭受政治攻擊或者人身攻擊的時候穿上這套西裝。