修士們居住的由院長(zhǎng)管理的修道院通常圍繞教堂而建。這樣的教堂叫做“大教堂”。大教堂的一邊有個(gè)庭院,從教堂出來(lái)穿過(guò)庭院通常是用餐的大堂,叫做“餐廳”。教堂和餐廳由走廊連接,并直通庭院的兩端。這些走廊看起來(lái)像是長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的柱廊,面對(duì)庭院,被稱作“回廊”?;乩壤锏闹涌雌饋?lái)并不像古希臘或古羅馬的柱式。它們既不是陶立克柱式,或愛(ài)奧尼亞柱式,或科林斯柱式,也不是托斯卡納柱式,更不是混合型柱式,而是形態(tài)各異,甚至在同一條長(zhǎng)廊里也各不相同。有些柱式呈螺旋狀如螺絲釘,有些像是被擰的濕毛巾。有些周身由彩條裝飾,有些由十字紋修飾。在許多回廊里,柱子都是成雙成對(duì)的,就像走進(jìn)諾亞方舟的動(dòng)物,這些叫做“對(duì)柱”。它們跟帕臺(tái)農(nóng)神廟的柱子看起來(lái)不一樣吧?
71 ROUND ARCHES圓拱
SUPPOSE you thought the world was going to end next year! Most people in Europe in the Dark Ages thought the world was going to come to an end in 1000 A.D. They weren’t sure just how it would happen. Perhaps it was going to burn up, they thought, or fall apart or blow up with earthquakes and volcanoes. But they felt sure from what they read in the Bible that 1000 A.D. was going to see the end of the world. Important buildings were not built, because what was the use? They’d all be destroyed with the end of the world.
Then 1000 A.D. came and nothing happened to the world. Still the world was there, and so people found they must have been mistaken. More good buildings began to be built. The light in the darkness of the Dark Ages began to get brighter.
And now I’ll have to tell you of the new kind of architecture that was used after 1000 A.D. This new kind of architecture is called Romanesque. The easiest way for you to tell that a building is Romanesque is to look at the tops of the windows and doors. If all the windows and doors have round arches for tops, then the building is probably Romanesque.
People call it Romanesque because it was used in the countries that once belonged to Rome. Just as each of these former Roman countries came to have its own language, descended from Latin, so each country came to have its own Romanesque architecture, descended from Roman architecture.
The Romanesque architecture of Italy is most like the old basilican kind and so I’ll tell you first about the most famous Italian Romanesque buildings.
I’m sure you know the tower in this picture. It is the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. The building next to the tower is the cathedral.
Every church isn’t a cathedral. A cathedral is a church with a bishop. The chair that the bishop used in his church was called a cathedra. As the bishop’s church always had a cathedra, the bishop’s church was called a cathedral. This was the cathedral of the Bishop of Pisa.
If you were to look down on a cathedral from an airplane you would see it was built in the shape of a cross. But this cross isn’t a Greek cross, because all the arms are not the same length. A cross with the main stem longer than the other parts is called a Latin cross. Most Romanesque churches were built in the form of a Latin cross. The top of the cross was always pointed toward the east so that the altar in that end of the church could be nearer Palestine in the East, where Christ was born.
No.71-1 BAPTISTERY, CATHEDRAL AND LEANING TOWER, PISA
(比薩洗禮堂、比薩大教堂和比薩斜塔)
The outside of the cathedral at Pisa is worth looking at, especially if you make believe you are a detective and can see things that most people don’t notice. The rows of columns with arches over them are called arches. A detective would notice at once that all the arches are round arches, and so he could guess the building is probably Romanesque. There are four of these rows of arches or arcades on the west end of this cathedral.
And here is something I don’t believe you’d notice unless you were a very good detective. Each arcade is a different height. The third arcade from the ground has the tallest columns. The arcade next to the bottom is not quite as tall, the top one is still shorter, and the bottom arcade has the shortest columns of all. A very, very good detective would notice that the middle arch in the two arcades nearest the ground is bigger than the other arches.
Now look even more closely. A very extra good detective would see that the columns in the two top arcades are not always exactly over the columns below them.
All these differences were not just accidental. The arcades were built that way on purpose. If all four arcades had been just alike they would have made the whole front of the cathedral look tiresome, monotonous, uninteresting.
Now if you will look at the Leaning Tower, you can see that all the arcades are just alike. For that reason, the tower isn’t so beautiful as the cathedral. Many people even call the tower ugly. I don’t think it is ugly, but I certainly can’t say it’s as pleasing to look at as the cathedral, though you may find it more interesting on account of the way it leans. The Leaning Tower was built later than the cathedral. Maybe by then the architects had forgotten why the cathedral arcades were not built all alike.
The tower started leaning almost as soon as it was begun. Before the first story was finished, the foundations on one side were much lower than on the other, so work on the building was stopped. But, after several years, another architect managed to get three more stories built before he had to stop on account of the slant. Still later another architect finished the tower. But some people have said the tower was meant to lean in the first place so it would be different from other towers.
It is true that each city in Italy was trying to get ahead of every other city with buildings that would attract attention. But most people now believe the foundations sank in soft ground on one side and that the lean of the tower was an accident. The top of it leans about fourteen feet out over the bottom. There are seven bells in the top and the heaviest bell is kept on the side away from the lean to help balance the tower.
Near the cathedral stands a circular building called the Baptistery of Pisa. The Baptistery was built to baptize the people in. It was changed a great deal in looks after the Romanesque period was over, because later architects thought they could make it look better than it looked at first.
A good example of a Romanesque building in France is the Cathedral of Angoulême. The front, as you can see in the picture, is decorated with sculpture. Notice the round arches that belong to all Romanesque buildings.
In England, the Normans who came over with William the Conqueror built many stone churches, cathedrals, and castles. Norman buildings are Romanesque just as much as the French and Italian, but they are usually called Norman buildings instead of Romanesque. Very little of the Norman Romanesque looks now as it did when the Normans built it, because later builders kept adding to it and changing it. Often some parts of an English church are Norman, while later parts of the same church are not Norman style at all.
No.71-2 CATHEDRAL OF ANGOULÊME FRANCE(法國(guó)昂古萊姆大教堂)
Courtesy of The University Prints
Germany also has some fine Romanesque cathedrals and churches. And they all have arcades and round arches over the windows and doors. And that’s really the big thing to remember about Romanesque buildings—round arches and arcades.
假設(shè)你也曾有過(guò)這樣的想法:來(lái)年就是世界末日!歐洲黑暗時(shí)代的大多數(shù)人都認(rèn)為世界將在公元1000年結(jié)束。他們只是不太確定那將怎樣發(fā)生。他們想,也許它會(huì)被火燒成平地,或是被地震或火山攪得四崩五裂。但他們堅(jiān)信圣經(jīng)的記載,公元1000年時(shí)將目睹世界的滅亡。所以當(dāng)時(shí)并沒(méi)有建造什么重要的建筑物。因?yàn)榻擞钟惺裁从媚??到了世界末日那天,還不都照樣要被毀掉。
公元1000年終于來(lái)到了,世界卻安然無(wú)恙。世界仍在那里。人們也發(fā)現(xiàn),一定是他們自己弄錯(cuò)了。人們又開(kāi)始大興土木,好看的建筑物紛紛開(kāi)始出現(xiàn)。黑暗時(shí)期的曙光越來(lái)越明亮了。
我現(xiàn)在要介紹的是公元1000年后出現(xiàn)的新型建筑。這種建筑風(fēng)格叫做“羅馬式建筑”。有一種最簡(jiǎn)單的方法能說(shuō)明什么是羅馬式建筑,那就是看看門和窗的頂部是不是圓拱形式。如果是,那么該建筑物就可能是羅馬式建筑。
人們之所以稱它羅馬式建筑是因?yàn)槟切┰`屬羅馬帝國(guó)的國(guó)家采用過(guò)這種樣式。像所有屬于前羅馬帝國(guó)的國(guó)家都漸漸有了自己的從拉丁語(yǔ)演變過(guò)來(lái)的語(yǔ)言一樣,每個(gè)國(guó)家也開(kāi)始有了從羅馬建筑演變過(guò)來(lái)的具有自己特色的羅馬式建筑。
意大利的羅馬式建筑很像古老的長(zhǎng)方形教堂,所以,讓我們先來(lái)談?wù)勔獯罄钪牧_馬式建筑。
我想你肯定認(rèn)識(shí)這幅圖上的塔吧。這是著名的比薩斜塔。塔旁邊的那座建筑物就是比薩大教堂。
并不是所有的教堂都是大教堂。有主教的教堂才叫做“大教堂”。主教在教堂里的專門座椅叫做“主教座”。由于主教的教堂都有主教座,所以主教的教堂被稱作大教堂。圖為比薩主教的大教堂。
如果從飛機(jī)上俯瞰一座大教堂,你將看到它的形狀像個(gè)十字架。但這種十字形不屬于希臘式,因?yàn)樗乃亩碎L(zhǎng)度不相等。上下兩端比左右兩端長(zhǎng)的叫做拉丁十字形。大多數(shù)羅馬式教堂都建成拉丁十字形。十字形教堂的頂端總是指向東方,所以教堂頂頭的祭壇就離東方的巴勒斯坦更近一點(diǎn),那是基督誕生的地方。
“比薩大教堂”的外觀很值得一看,特別在你自認(rèn)為是個(gè)偵探,且能發(fā)現(xiàn)別人注意不到的事情的時(shí)候。拱門上面有一排排柱子的叫做“拱廊”。偵探立刻就能發(fā)現(xiàn)所有的拱門都是圓形的,所以他可以猜出這種建筑十有八九是羅馬式建筑。在這座大教堂的西邊有四排這樣的拱門或拱廊。
還有一些東西我想你可能注意不到,除非你是個(gè)非常優(yōu)秀的偵探。拱廊各有不同的高度。第三拱廊平地而起,拱門柱最高??拷烫玫撞康墓袄认鄬?duì)不高,最高拱廊的柱身仍然比別的要矮,而教堂底部拱廊的柱身則是最矮的。眼力特好的偵探將會(huì)注意到兩個(gè)最靠近地面的拱廊中的拱門比其他拱門都要大。
好,讓我們?cè)僮屑?xì)地看看吧。優(yōu)秀得不能再優(yōu)秀的偵探將會(huì)看到,最上層兩個(gè)拱廊的柱子并不肯定比下面拱廊的柱子高。
所有這些不同點(diǎn)并不都是偶然的。這些拱廊都是故意這樣安排的。如果四個(gè)拱廊都一樣高的話,它們就會(huì)使大教堂的正面看起來(lái)呆板、單調(diào)、乏味。
如果再看一下“比薩斜塔”,你將發(fā)現(xiàn)所有的拱廊看起來(lái)都差不多。正因?yàn)槿绱?,斜塔才沒(méi)有大教堂好看。甚至很多人都說(shuō)斜塔丑陋。我倒不認(rèn)為它有多難看,但我也不可能自欺欺人地說(shuō)它和大教堂一樣好看,盡管也許找出比薩斜塔傾斜的原因可能會(huì)更有意思。比薩斜塔的建造時(shí)間要晚于比薩大教堂。也許那時(shí)的建筑師們?cè)缇屯藶槭裁幢人_大教堂的拱廊建得不一樣。
比薩斜塔幾乎在它剛建成后就開(kāi)始傾斜了。在第一層建好之前,塔的根基就比另一邊的要低很多,所以只得停工。但是,幾年之后,另外一位建筑師卻設(shè)法加了三層,后因傾斜度問(wèn)題不能再往上加了。再后來(lái),又有一位建筑師完成了塔的整個(gè)工程。但也有人說(shuō),在建第一層時(shí)就故意傾斜,以使這塔看起來(lái)與眾不同。
確實(shí)如此,意大利的每一座城市都力圖通過(guò)建造特別引人注目的建筑物來(lái)比其他城市更引人關(guān)注。但大多數(shù)人認(rèn)為斜塔的根基在一邊的軟土里下沉導(dǎo)致塔的傾斜完全是一個(gè)事故。塔的頂端要比底部斜出14英尺。塔的頂部掛了七座大鐘,最重的那座掛在傾斜的另一側(cè),以使斜塔保持平衡。
比薩大教堂的旁邊屹立著一座半圓形建筑物,叫做“比薩洗禮堂”。比薩洗禮堂是給人施洗用的。羅馬統(tǒng)治結(jié)束后它的外觀改變了很多,因?yàn)楹髞?lái)的建筑師們認(rèn)為他們能把它改造得更好看一點(diǎn)。
法國(guó)的羅馬式建筑的一個(gè)典范是“昂古萊姆大教堂”。如圖所示,教堂的正面是塑像裝飾。留意一下屬于羅馬式建筑的圓拱。
諾曼人跟隨征服者威廉進(jìn)入英國(guó)后用石頭為材料在英國(guó)建造了許多教堂、大教堂以及城堡。諾曼人的建筑與法國(guó)人和意大利人的建筑一樣同屬羅馬式建筑,但通常稱為諾曼式建筑,而不稱作羅馬式建筑。只有極少一部分諾曼人的羅馬式建筑與它們當(dāng)初剛建成時(shí)看起來(lái)一樣,這是因?yàn)楹髞?lái)的建筑者不斷地在原樣上進(jìn)行修補(bǔ)和改造。一座英國(guó)的教堂常常只有其中某些部分呈諾曼風(fēng)格,而其他部分連諾曼風(fēng)格的影子也見(jiàn)不到了。