榮耀歸索契，灰塵歸小村

Sochi Got the Gold. Bypassed Village Got Dust

榮耀歸索契，灰塵歸小村

KAZACHY BROD, Russia — Even people who live 10 minutes away do not seem to know how to get to Akhshtyr, a mountain village that theoretically should be basking in the warm glow of the multibillion-dollar Olympic construction bonanza all around it.

俄羅斯卡扎奇布羅德——即便是住在距離阿赫什特爾十分鐘遠(yuǎn)的人們，似乎也不知道該如何去那兒。阿赫什特爾是一個位于山間的小村。從理論上來說，它此刻應(yīng)該正享受著其周邊數(shù)十億奧運(yùn)設(shè)施建設(shè)所帶來的機(jī)遇，沐浴在其溫暖的光輝中。

“Walk over the bridge,” Valentina Kvasnikova advised on a recent afternoon, gesturing past her house toward a swaying, bouncing structure made of rickety, indifferently nailed-together wooden slats suspended above the turbid Mzymta River. Once the bridge was negotiated (and it was hard to know whether to crawl or to run), Akhshtyr loomed tantalizingly close — just across the new 48-kilometer high-speed railway tracks and the sleek new superhighway linking the Black Sea resort of Sochi to the mountains high above it.

“走過那座橋，”瓦蓮京娜·克瓦斯尼科娃(Valentina Kvasnikova)最近的一個午后在家門外這樣建議，一邊指向遠(yuǎn)處姆濟(jì)姆塔河上的一座木結(jié)構(gòu)橋梁。這座隨風(fēng)搖擺、起伏的木橋由木板松松垮垮地釘在一起、看上去就要散架。很難判斷應(yīng)該是爬過這座橋，還是跑過去。一旦穿過了它，阿赫什特爾就近在眼前了，只需要穿過那座新修的48公里長的高鐵軌道，以及連接索契黑海度假圣地和背后高山的嶄新耀眼的高速公路。

But no ramp connects Akhshtyr to the new road. The train does not stop in the village, and according to eight police officers who emerged from different directions to deliver eight variations of “you can’t get there from here,” pedestrians are strictly forbidden to cross from one side to the other.

但卻沒有一條坡道能從阿赫什特爾通向那條新修的路?；疖嚥粫？窟@個小村，八位來自不同方向的警察傳達(dá)了八種不同版本的“你不能從此地前往那里”的警告，據(jù)他們說，行人嚴(yán)禁從公路一頭穿到另一頭。

Being cut off from the main road is not the only indignity faced by Akhshtyr’s 200 or so residents since Russia decided to spend as much as $8 billion on a wildly ambitious plan to turn a sleepy Caucasian road into a major transportation corridor for its grand Olympic project.

對于阿赫什特爾200名左右的居民來說，自從俄羅斯決定投入高達(dá)80億美元(約合480億元人民幣)實(shí)施一項極其宏偉的計劃，將一條沉寂的高加索小道變成一條通向其壯麗奧運(yùn)會項目的主要運(yùn)輸通道以后，他們所遭受的羞辱就不止是被隔斷在主干道之外。

Every Olympics has its local casualties — displaced neighborhoods, merchants who lose business, residents grumbling about traffic — and some communities here have fared better than others. Akhshtyr (pronounced akh-SHTEER), a hodgepodge of ramshackle houses and meandering farm animals nestled in the breathtakingly beautiful mountains between the Olympic Park on the Black Sea coast and the snow-sports venues of Krasnaya Polyana above, has fared very badly indeed.

每一界奧運(yùn)會都會讓當(dāng)?shù)卦馐芤恍p失——整片的居民區(qū)搬遷、商人們失去生意、居民對擁堵表示不滿。在這里，也有一些社區(qū)的運(yùn)氣更好一些。在阿赫什特爾，在破舊房屋之間常常見到四處游走的農(nóng)畜。小村所在的群山位于黑海沿岸的奧林匹克公園和雪上運(yùn)動場地紅波利亞納之間，美得令人窒息。而這個小村的運(yùn)氣可謂十分糟糕。

For the last five years, construction trucks have rumbled day and night through the street that bisects the village, on what used to be a gravel road but was paved over for Olympic building purposes. The village has gone without fresh water since 2008, ever since its drinking wells were wrecked by the vast new waste dump serving the vast new gravel quarry on the mountain. Now residents rely on intermittent water deliveries from the authorities.

為了奧運(yùn)設(shè)施建設(shè)的便利，村中一條碎石路被改造成了大路，將小村割裂開來。在過去五年，建筑用卡車在這條路上來來往往，日夜發(fā)出轟隆隆的噪音。自從2008年起，小村的水井被大量服務(wù)于山上新開采石場的垃圾場所破壞，這個村子就再也沒有清水了。如今，村民們只能依靠政府時不時地送水進(jìn)來。

“At times, layers of dust — up to five inches thick — cover the road and residents’ houses, yards and gardens,” the advocacy group Human Rights Watch said in a report released in December.

“有時候，厚達(dá)5英寸(約合13厘米)的灰塵會覆蓋住道路、居民房屋、庭院和花園，”倡導(dǎo)組織人權(quán)觀察(Human Rights Watch)在去年12月公布的一份報告中寫道。

Things are not necessarily great in the communities around Akhshtyr, either, but at least you can get to them. Loath to criticize the government when swarms of law enforcement officials brought in for the Olympics are lurking seemingly everywhere, nearby residents said they hoped that some of the money pouring into the region would find its way to them.

在阿赫什特爾周邊的社區(qū)，情況也未必有多好，但至少你能夠到達(dá)那些地方。成群的為奧運(yùn)會而來的執(zhí)法官員潛伏在每個地方，附近的居民們雖不愿批評政府，但也表示，他們希望為這個地區(qū)投入的大量金錢能分給他們一些。

In Kazachy Brod, Ms. Kvasnikova, 59, was shaking out her bathmat in front of a tired-looking four-story apartment building, with residents’ laundry suspended on an elaborate clothesline connected to a treetop. She said she was excited “the whole world is coming here” for the Olympics. Not only had her building been repainted — albeit not very recently, at least judging by its appearance — but “they’ve been promising to bring in a gas line,” she said.

在卡扎奇布羅德，59歲的克瓦斯尼科娃正在一棟看來十分陳舊的四層公寓樓前抖動她的浴室腳墊，不遠(yuǎn)處是一根小心架在樹頂?shù)牧酪吕K，上面晾曬著居民們的衣服。她說，為了奧運(yùn)會，“全世界的人都在趕往這里”，她十分激動。不僅她住的房子被重新粉刷了——雖然至少從外觀上看，不是最近刷的——而且“他們一直承諾要修一條輸氣管”，她說。

On the other hand, Alexei Ivanovich, 36, who works in Kazachy Brod’s major tourist attraction, a trout fishery, said that nothing good had come from the Olympics so far, at least for him.

另一方面，在卡扎奇布羅德主要旅游景點(diǎn)鮭魚場工作的、36歲的阿列克謝·伊萬諾維奇(Alexei Ivanovich)表示，到現(xiàn)在為止，奧運(yùn)會沒有帶來任何好處，至少對他來說沒有。

“It’s clearer to see the benefits for the government,” said Mr. Ivanovich, who was resting in the front seat of an old, battered car, 1980s American rock music blaring from the speakers. He and his wife live with their four daughters in an apartment that is barely 150 square feet, he said.

“更容易看清政府能得到的好處，”伊萬諾維奇說。他正坐在一輛破舊不堪的小車的前排座位上休息，揚(yáng)聲器里大聲播放著20世紀(jì)80年代的美國搖滾樂。他說，他和妻子以及四個女兒生活在一間還不到150平方英尺(約合14平方米)的公寓里。

“It will be good if you tell Mr. Putin to pay attention to families with many children,” he said, referring to Russia’s president, Vladimir V. Putin.

提到俄羅斯總統(tǒng)弗拉基米爾·V·普京(Vladimir V. Putin)，伊萬諾維奇說，“要是你能告訴普京應(yīng)該重視多子女家庭的話，倒是做了件好事。”

A law enforcement official was standing for no obvious purpose next to what looked like a disused hut to Mr. Ivanovich’s left. With the Olympics underway and security a major concern, such officers are visible everywhere along the new transportation corridor: in embankments, on mountain paths, in bus shelters, along guardrails, outside railway tunnels, even behind trees.

一名執(zhí)法官員表面上漫無目的的站在伊萬諾維奇左側(cè)的一座看似廢棄的棚屋旁邊。由于奧運(yùn)會正在進(jìn)行，而安保工作又受到密切關(guān)切，因此新交通走廊沿途隨處可見部署的警力：路堤上、山路邊、公交車站、護(hù)欄邊、鐵路隧道外，甚至是樹木從中。

As inaccessible as it has become, Akhshtyr seems to have attracted more than its fair share of such officials. A group of them was massed recently at the far end of the village.

盡管交通變得極為不便，阿赫什特爾似乎還是吸引了過多的警力。一大群警察最近就聚集到了村子的最邊上。

“There’s a military post guarding strategic objects,” said one officer, who leapt out of a van to record the names of a reporter and a photographer in his little green notebook. “No photographs.”

“這里有一個保衛(wèi)戰(zhàn)略目標(biāo)的軍事站點(diǎn)，”一名警察說。他跳出了面包車，在綠色的小筆記本上記下記者和攝影師的名字。“嚴(yán)禁拍攝。”

It turns out that there is a way to get to the village: by driving from the other direction on an old, winding road with no exits, leading from a single entrance near the Sochi airport. This is extremely inconvenient for the villagers, many of whom do not have cars. Instead of walking to school, their children now have to take a bus from Akhshtyr down toward the airport and then up an old road on the other side of the highway, an undertaking that adds about 45 minutes to their trip.

后來發(fā)現(xiàn)，是有一條路可以抵達(dá)阿赫什特爾：它在另一個方向上，需要駛?cè)胨髌躏w機(jī)場附近的某一個路口，沿著一條沒有出入口的老盤山公路開。對村民來說，這一點(diǎn)非常之不便。許多人并沒有小汽車。他們的子女現(xiàn)在沒法走路上學(xué)，不得不從阿赫什特爾乘公交車到機(jī)場，然后從高速路的另一邊沿著一條老路往山上開。這一趟要增加45分鐘的行程。

“In the old days, we could go across the river and pick up the bus from the trout fishery,” said Sergei Shegevsky, 32, a security guard from Akhshtyr. Interviewed at the town’s sparsely stocked general store, he said he was exasperated by what he said were unfulfilled promises by the government.

“以前，我們可以過河，在鮭魚場坐公交車，”在鎮(zhèn)上貨品稀稀拉拉的雜貨鋪里，來自阿赫什特爾的32歲的安保員謝爾蓋·舍格夫斯基(Sergei Shegevsky)說。他還表示，政府的承諾落了空，讓他很氣憤。

“For instance, they promised us there’d be an exit onto the main road, but now they said it’s not possible,” Mr. Shegevsky said. “It’s just unpleasant. We haven’t felt any benefits from the Olympics.”

“比方說，他們答應(yīng)我們，會有個到主干道上的出口，結(jié)果現(xiàn)在又說不行，”舍格夫斯基說。“真是討厭。我們沒有從奧運(yùn)會感受到任何的好處。”

The water situation is another problem. After the new dump poisoned the villagers’ water, the authorities promised to provide a new source and installed a water pump — a hand-operated one that “looked like it came from the 19th century,” said Jane Buchanan, the associate director for Europe and Central Asia at Human Rights Watch. The installation received great fanfare, with an opening ceremony of sorts attended by regional dignitaries. The pump worked that day; it stopped working the next.

供水則是另外一個問題。新的垃圾場污染了村里的水源后，當(dāng)局曾承諾提供新的水源，于是安裝了一個水泵——卻是手動水泵。用人權(quán)觀察組織的歐洲與中亞事務(wù)副主管簡·布坎南(Jane Buchanan)的話來說，“像是來自19世紀(jì)。”安裝水泵的事情搞得大張旗鼓，地區(qū)要員出席了剪彩等儀式。水泵當(dāng)天可以使用，第二天就罷了工。

“It is incredibly emblematic of what has happened,” Ms. Buchanan said. “When the Olympics were scheduled to come to Sochi, the government promised, and Putin promised, that no harm would come to anyone. For this village, they were living in threadbare circumstances before the Olympics, and the Olympics made it worse.”

“發(fā)生的這些事非常具有代表性，”布坎南說。“索契獲得了奧運(yùn)會主辦權(quán)后，政府和普京都承諾，沒人會損失什么。但是對于這個村子，人們在從前就過得很艱辛，奧運(yùn)會則是雪上加霜。”

Down the street from the store, Alexei Gregorian, 80, paused from chopping wood in his daughter’s backyard — next to a junkyard strewn with old car parts, piles of rags, dormant bonfires and clusters of empty soda and vodka bottles — to muse on some broader questions.

商店所在街道的另一頭，80歲的阿列克謝·格雷戈里安(Alexei Gregorian)在女兒家的后院砍木頭。旁邊是一座垃圾場，散落著汽車廢舊零件、成捆的破衣爛衫、燃盡的火堆，以及成堆的空汽水瓶和伏特加瓶。當(dāng)被問到一些更宏觀的問題時，他停下來想了一會。

“The Olympics are the Olympics,” he said, shrugging. “They already stole three-quarters of what they spent on it.”

“奧運(yùn)會是奧運(yùn)會，”他聳了聳肩。“他們本來就侵吞了四分之三的投資。”