36小時(shí)玩轉(zhuǎn)清邁

Traditionally, tourists have trekked to the star of Thailand’s north in search of M.E.A.T.: markets, elephants, artisans and temples. And Chiang Mai, a laid-back old riverside city whose population (fewer than 200,000) is a fraction of Bangkok’s (more than eight million), obliges those fantasies. But these days the 700-year-old city is brimming with far more modern attractions, too, namely the works of artists and designers. Thanks to a blossoming creative scene, a Chiang Mai weekend now offers the chance to soak up contemporary art in world-class exhibition spaces, purchase stylish 21st-century design in new shops and craft villages, and sleep in gallery-like new hotels, from the frivolous to the fancy. The culinary and night life scenes are also thriving, with ambitious upstart restaurants and a buzzing bar district joining the city’s traditional eating rooms and street-food zones. Just be careful to avoid Chiang Mai in March and April, when the region’s farmers burn brush and overgrowth en masse, filling the air with smoke and ash.

傳統(tǒng)上，千里迢迢前往泰國(guó)北部之星的游客們，尋找的是M.E.A.T.：市場(chǎng)(markets)、大象(elephants)、匠人(artisans)和寺廟(temples)。清邁作為一座休閑的河畔古城，完全能滿足所有這些幻想;它的人口不到20萬(wàn)，是曼谷800萬(wàn)人口的一個(gè)零頭。但這座擁有700年歷史的城市，現(xiàn)在也充滿了很多的現(xiàn)代景點(diǎn)，即那些來(lái)自藝術(shù)家和設(shè)計(jì)師的作品。由于創(chuàng)作領(lǐng)域的繁榮，現(xiàn)在在清邁過(guò)周末，就有機(jī)會(huì)在世界級(jí)的展覽空間里領(lǐng)略當(dāng)代藝術(shù)，在新的店鋪和工藝村購(gòu)買21世紀(jì)的時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)，在畫廊般的新酒店里過(guò)夜，價(jià)格有簡(jiǎn)有奢。美食和夜生活也是相當(dāng)熱鬧，雄心勃勃的新餐廳和一個(gè)喧鬧的酒吧區(qū)，與該城傳統(tǒng)的餐廳和路邊美食區(qū)成鼎立之勢(shì)。不過(guò)三四月份就不要去清邁了，在那個(gè)時(shí)間段，當(dāng)?shù)氐霓r(nóng)民要焚燒秸稈，空氣中塵霧彌漫。

Friday 周五

1) 5 p.m. HANDMADE HAVEN 1)

下午5點(diǎn) 手工藝品的聚集地

Handmade creations abound along Charoenrat Road. Siam meets Soho at Woo, a cafe and concept store that blooms with Thai creativity — literally — starting with plants and exquisite floral arrangements. The upstairs art gallery exhibits painting and sculpture, while the boutique’s wide-ranging collection includes rice extract lip balm, minimalist ceramics, kaleidoscopic hippie-chic dresses and a skull covered with tiny white seashells that would make Damien Hirst jealous. Down the street, The Meeting Room Art Cafe is piled with stacks of prints and canvases by local artists — all for sale — while elegant Sop Moei Arts sells textile creations to decorate your body or home, from scarves to embroidered wall hangings.

Charoenrat路是買手工藝品的好地方。暹羅和蘇荷在Woo相遇。這是一家咖啡館和概念店，泰式創(chuàng)意在這里綻放——是真的有花朵綻放——從植物和精致的插花開始。樓上的藝?yán)日钩隼L畫和雕塑，而精品店里的商品則包羅萬(wàn)象，有大米提取物潤(rùn)唇膏、極簡(jiǎn)主義風(fēng)格的陶瓷、千變?nèi)f化的嬉皮風(fēng)連衣裙，以及覆蓋著白色小貝殼、能讓達(dá)米恩·赫斯特(Damien Hirst)都嫉妒的骷髏。沿街而行，你會(huì)看到The Meeting Room Art Cafe咖啡館，里面堆滿了當(dāng)?shù)厮囆g(shù)家的版畫和油畫作品(全都可以出售);而高雅的Sop Moei Arts出售各種創(chuàng)意紡織品，從裝飾你的身體到裝飾你的家，從圍巾到刺繡壁掛。

2) 7 p.m. THE PING AND I 2)晚上7點(diǎn) 平江與我

For a sunset drink on the Ping River, the most stylish hangout is On the Ping (outdoor lounge), in the Sala Lanna hotel. With its swimming pool, white lanterns, white canopies and white couches, the back lawn channels the spirit of St.-Tropez. The menu, meanwhile, includes house cocktails like the Ping River (vodka, lychee, lemongrass and lime; 290 baht, or about $8.70), Thai craft beers and even Thai rosé.

如果想日落時(shí)分在平江(Ping River)喝一杯，最時(shí)尚的去處就是Sala Lanna酒店里的戶外酒吧On the Ping。游泳池、白燈籠、白頂篷和白沙發(fā)，還有后院草坪，營(yíng)造出法國(guó)圣特羅佩的感覺(jué)。酒單上，你會(huì)看到Ping River(成分包括伏特加、荔枝、檸檬草和青檸，價(jià)格290泰銖)這樣的特色雞尾酒，還有泰式精釀啤酒，甚至泰式桃紅葡萄酒。

3) 9 p.m. QUIRKY AND ROMANTIC 3)晚上9點(diǎn) 搞怪和羅曼蒂克

It looks as if some eccentric, globe-trotting English lord is behind Ginger & Kafe restaurant. Who else would dare add sliced cucumber and toast points to the chicken satay? Who else would include scones in the dessert menu? And who but an aristocratic British bloke would decorate the space with chandeliers, armchairs, Oriental rugs, lacquered chests, flickering candles and other drawing-room accouterments? English lord or not, Ginger & Kafe is a quirkily romantic place to pop the question, or simply your gut — courtesy of braised beef in lime-coconut reduction, pork ribs in tamarind sauce, or a red curry with duck breast and tropical fruits. (A three-course meal for two costs around 1,800 baht.)

Ginger & Kafe餐廳背后的老板，似乎是某個(gè)環(huán)游世界的古怪英國(guó)貴族。不然，還有誰(shuí)敢在沙茶醬雞肉里加上黃瓜片和烤面包片呢?還有誰(shuí)，會(huì)在甜點(diǎn)單里加上司康餅?zāi)?除了英國(guó)貴族，誰(shuí)會(huì)用枝形吊燈、扶手椅、東方地毯、漆面柜、閃爍的蠟燭和其他的客廳裝備來(lái)裝飾這個(gè)空間呢?不管是不是英國(guó)貴族在背后，Ginger & Kafe都是一個(gè)適合求婚的古怪浪漫之處，哪怕只是來(lái)這里填飽肚子——青檸椰汁燉牛肉、羅望子醬排骨、紅咖喱鴨胸肉加熱帶水果(兩人份三道菜大約1800泰銖)。

Then move to the adjoining House Lounge, another elegant throwback where monkeys and birds frolic (on the wallpaper) and vases of plants and flowers complete the jungle lodge vibe. A Colonial Cordial (Scotch, Papidoux calvados, Grand Marnier, thyme liqueur, bitters; 350 baht) is practically a must, and dress code is B.Y. O. P. H.: Bring your own pith helmet.

吃完，移駕隔壁的House Lounge，這里也是老式的優(yōu)雅風(fēng)格，猴子和鳥在墻紙上嬉戲，瓶子里的花花草草營(yíng)造出叢林小屋的氛圍。來(lái)一杯“殖民地甜飲”(Colonial Cordial)是必須的(成分包括蘇格蘭威士忌、帕普多克斯蘋果白蘭地、金萬(wàn)利力嬌酒、百里香利口酒、苦味酒;價(jià)格350泰銖)，著裝要求是B.Y. o.p. H：帶上你的木髓盔(Bring your own pith helmet)。

Saturday 周六

4) 10 a.m. WISDOM OF THE WAT 4)上午10點(diǎn)：寺院的智慧

First the bad news: “All things arise, exist and expire.” On the other hand: “Detachment is a great way to relax.” Such are just a few of the maxims on signs that adorn trees in Wat Umong, a forested sprawl of temples, pavilions, statues, fountains and lakes. Founded in the late 13th century and still home to many Buddhist monks, the complex is best known for its bell-shaped, 14th-century stone pagoda — reached by stone stairs lined with scaly beasts — and rock caverns filled with Buddha statues and figurines in the niches and alcoves. Beat the heat by arriving in the morning and taking a meditative stroll amid a soundtrack of birds, roosters, chants and bells.

先是壞消息：“萬(wàn)物成住壞空。”另一方面：“超然是放松的好辦法。”這些是寫在悟孟寺(Wat Umong)樹木標(biāo)志上的一些格言，龐大的悟孟寺位于森林之中，有寺廟、亭子、雕像、噴泉和湖泊。該建筑群建于13世紀(jì)末，如今仍然是許多佛教僧侶的家園，這里最出名的是14世紀(jì)的鐘形石塔，它們有石頭階梯，邊緣裝飾著有鱗片的獸類;此外還有巖洞，里面有許多擺著佛像和小塑像的壁龕和凹洞。趁著早上涼快趕去那里，在鳥兒、公雞、誦詠和鈴鐺的伴奏下，沉下心來(lái)漫步。

5) Noon. A CRAFTY SCHEME 5)中午：手工藝計(jì)劃

The mood shifts from contemplation to creation in the nearby forest clearing containing Baan Kang Wat artisan village. Meandering paths lead to cafes, teahouses, juice stands, funky shops and craft studios selling everything from handmade paper goods to baby clothes. Follow the sound of hammer-tapping to Saprang, where the award-winning jewelry designer Supat Suwannasing makes delicate earrings and bracelets that often employ nature motifs like leaves and vines. Wood and ceramics are the choice materials at Bookoo Studio, which sells smooth and simple creations like bowls and chopping boards.

在附近的林間空地中，心情從沉思轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)閯?chuàng)造，那里有寺邊屋(Baan Kang Wat)工匠社區(qū)。蜿蜒的小路通往一個(gè)個(gè)咖啡館、茶館、果汁攤、時(shí)髦小店和匠人工作室，出售從手工紙品到嬰兒服裝等各種商品。沿著錘子敲擊的聲音找到Saprang，屢獲大獎(jiǎng)的珠寶設(shè)計(jì)師素巴·蘇瓦納辛(Supat Suwannasing)在那里制作精致的耳環(huán)和手鐲，它們大都使用自然圖案，比如樹葉和藤蔓。木頭和陶瓷是Bookoo工作室的首選材料，出售平滑簡(jiǎn)單的物品，比如碗和砧板。

6) 2 p.m. PIG OUT 6)下午兩點(diǎn)：狼吞虎咽

Your lifelong quest to consume spicy frog soup and stir-fried ant eggs ends at Huen Muan Jai restaurant, another village-like sprawl of rustic wooden houses and pavilions. Porcine dreams are also satisfied, with a menu that features pork wrapped in banana leaves, tossed in jackfruit soup, stir-fried with mushrooms, encased in an omelet or cooked to cotton-ball softness in a red curry as thin and powerful as a flyweight boxer. More mainstream meats and fish also make appearances in local specialties like khao soy — a mix of chicken or beef with boiled and crispy noodles in sweet coconut broth — while desserts combine coconut milk with either bananas or corn and sticky rice to ambrosia-like effect. Two can lunch copiously for 600 baht.

你對(duì)辣田雞湯和炒螞蟻蛋的畢生追求，都可以在歡喜之家(Huen Muan Jai)餐廳得到滿足，它是一片龐大的、鄉(xiāng)村式的木屋和涼亭。你對(duì)豬肉的夢(mèng)想也能得到滿足，菜單里有香蕉葉裹豬肉、菠蘿蜜湯豬肉、蘑菇炒豬肉、煎蛋卷裹豬肉、還有紅咖喱燉豬肉，像棉球一樣柔軟，像輕量級(jí)拳擊手一樣又瘦又有嚼勁。還有其他用主流肉類和魚類做成的當(dāng)?shù)靥厣?，比如金?mdash;—雞肉或牛肉混在煮熟的脆面條里，放在甜椰子湯中——而甜點(diǎn)則是椰奶與香蕉或玉米和糯米混合在一起，簡(jiǎn)直是珍饈美味。兩人花600泰銖可以飽餐一頓豐盛的午餐。

7) 4 p.m. CREATIVE CORRIDORS 7)下午4點(diǎn)：創(chuàng)意走廊

You can hardly hurl a beret without hitting an art or design business on Nimmanhaemin Road’s side streets. Local artists have contributed to almost every space in Art Mai? Gallery Hotel, from the themed rooms to the restaurant’s recipes, but nowhere more so than the ground-floor art gallery (well curated, with artist biographies in English) and boutique (which sells drawings and canvases, along with artist-designed scarves and bags).

在尼曼路(Nimmanhaemin Road)側(cè)面的小路上丟出一頂貝雷帽，幾乎肯定會(huì)打中一家藝術(shù)或設(shè)計(jì)小店。當(dāng)?shù)厮囆g(shù)家?guī)缀鯙榍暹~藝術(shù)畫廊酒店(Art Mai? Gallery Hotel)的每個(gè)空間都做出了貢獻(xiàn)，從主題房間到餐廳的食譜，但最重要的是一樓的藝術(shù)畫廊(經(jīng)過(guò)精心策展，出售英文藝術(shù)家傳記)和精品店(出售素描和油畫，以及藝術(shù)家設(shè)計(jì)的圍巾和包袋)。

Southward, Gallery Seescape has rotating exhibitions and also showcases the work of its founder, Torlarp Larpjaroensook — including his dreamy abstract paintings and playful robot sculptures — while Jojo Kobe specializes in screen prints by artists like Kittisak Chaimoonta (notable for his surreal, dark humanoid figures) and Thaiwijit Puengkasemsomboon (a devotee of colorful abstraction). Farther south, a sculptural white unicorn announces Chiang Mai University Art Center, a Le Corbusier-inspired concrete-and-glass structure filled with airy white galleries, modernist Bauhaus lines, rotating contemporary art exhibitions — and puzzlingly few visitors.

向南走是Seescape畫廊，除了輪展，還展示其創(chuàng)始人托拉普·拉普賈羅恩蘇克(Torlarp Larpjaroensook)的作品——包括他夢(mèng)幻般的抽象繪畫和俏皮的機(jī)器人雕塑。而Jojo Kobe畫廊則專門展出絲網(wǎng)印作品，比如吉迪薩克·差穆塔(Kittisak Chaimoonta)，他的作品以其超現(xiàn)實(shí)、黑暗的人形聞名;還有泰維吉特·普恩卡賽索姆布恩(Thaiwijit Puengkasemsomboon)，他熱衷多彩的抽象畫。再往南，一尊白色獨(dú)角獸雕塑是清邁大學(xué)藝術(shù)中心(Chiang Mai University Art Center)的標(biāo)志，那是一棟勒·柯布西耶(Le Corbusier)風(fēng)格的混凝土玻璃建筑，布滿通風(fēng)的白色畫廊、現(xiàn)代主義的包豪斯線條，有當(dāng)代藝術(shù)輪展，令人費(fèi)解的是，幾乎沒(méi)什么游客。

8) 7 p.m. SEAFOOD SPEAKEASY 8)晚上7點(diǎn)：輕松海鮮

How do you like your crab fat? If you answered, “As a warm brown gravy for a crispy crab meat won ton with pickled local cabbage, please,” then you will get along swimmingly with Blackitch Artisan Kitchen. Another hidden gem off Nimmanhaemin Road, the cult restaurant is not fancy (simple cement floor and tile tables), not romantic (bright lighting), not large (barely space for a dozen), not easy to reserve (you must book the day before you want to dine), not easy to find (one floor above street level and almost unmarked) and not abounding with choices (the nightly set menu, at 1,800 baht, is the only option). But the imaginative seafood-rich dishes are exceptional: roasted, basted catfish in a juice made from its own head and tail on a velvety sweet purée of lotus seed boiled in coconut oil; or perhaps a seaweed-wrapped mackerel nugget topped with salmon roe on a cube of smoked yuzu-marinated rice larded with river shrimp and pink petals. Whatever the chef’s whim, it will likely be precise, daring and exquisite.

你想怎么吃蟹肉?如果你回答說(shuō)：“請(qǐng)用溫的棕色肉汁煮香脆的蟹肉餛飩，配上腌制的本地卷心菜，”來(lái)到Blackitch亞洲廚房，你定能一切如愿。這家小眾餐廳是尼曼路附近另一塊隱藏的寶石，它不花哨(只有簡(jiǎn)單的水泥地板和瓷片桌子)、不浪漫(燈光很明亮)、不大(只有十幾個(gè)位子)、不容易預(yù)訂(必須在用餐前一天訂)、不好找(在二層，幾乎沒(méi)有標(biāo)記)，而且選擇不多(只有1800泰銖的夜間套餐)。但菜肴充滿想象力，非常特別，有各種海鮮：烤鯰魚淋上用魚頭魚尾腌的汁，配上絲滑的蓮子甜糊，用椰子油煮;還有海苔包裹的鯖魚塊，上面放著鮭魚子，蓋在用煙熏柚子腌制的米飯上，還點(diǎn)綴著河蝦和粉紅色的花瓣。不管廚師怎么心血來(lái)潮，都顯得嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)、大膽和精致。

9) 10 p.m. BEER AND BOTANICALS 9)晚上10點(diǎn)：啤酒和植物

Along nearby Nimmanhaemin Road you can travel the world in 80 beers — more, in fact — at Beer Lab. The convivial outdoor bar draws college kids, N.G.O. workers, expats and local young professionals with its menu of beers from the United States, Australia, Europe, Asia and beyond, including Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale from Japan (310 baht) and Chiang Mai’s own Tropical Wheat beer (220 baht). Or you can soar above the city at the open-air rooftop bar of the Hotel Yayee. Plants hang from the rafters and sometimes end up in your drink, too, thanks to botanically infused cocktails (260 baht) like Ananda’s Flyboy (juniper spirit, aloe vera, thyme and white grape).

沿著尼曼路附近，你可以在啤酒實(shí)驗(yàn)室(Beer Lab)品嘗世界各地的80種啤酒——事實(shí)上還有更多。這個(gè)歡樂(lè)的戶外酒吧提供來(lái)自美國(guó)、澳大利亞、歐洲、亞洲及其他地區(qū)的啤酒，包括日本的常陸野赤米酒(310泰銖)和清邁本地的熱帶小麥啤酒(220泰銖)，吸引著大學(xué)生、非盈利組織的工作人員、外籍人士和當(dāng)?shù)啬贻p的專業(yè)人士。你也可以在亞伊酒店(Hotel Yayee)的露天屋頂酒吧上俯瞰城市。在那里，房椽上懸掛著植物，有時(shí)它們也會(huì)出現(xiàn)在你的飲料里，因?yàn)檫@里提供摻有植物的雞尾酒(260泰銖)，比如Ananda’s Flyboy(用杜松子酒、蘆薈、百里香和白葡萄制成)。

Sunday 星期日

10) 11 a.m. ART OF ASIA 10)上午11點(diǎn)：亞洲藝術(shù)

Surely you have wondered: What would happen if Hieronymus Bosch was reincarnated as a LSD dealer with a pop-culture obsession in 21st-century Thailand? He might create something similar to artist Navin Rawanchaikul’s “Super(M)art Bangkok Survivor,” a huge, frenzied, feverish, cartoonish wall-size painting that bursts with debauched Thai characters, real and invented, including a Kalashnikov-toting Buddha; vomiting tattooed monks; elephants; Vespas; blimps and the famous twins, Chang and Eng Bunker. The work is the marquee attraction of MAIIAM, a world-class museum that opened in 2016. The permanent collection of Thai contemporary art also features playful and sinister severed sculptural limbs by Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook, and paintings of pained, howling faces by Chatchai Puipia. MAIIAM is about 30 minutes from the city by taxi or ride share. Admission: 150 baht.

你肯定想知道：如果耶羅尼米斯·博斯(Hieronymus Bosch)轉(zhuǎn)世為21世紀(jì)泰國(guó)一個(gè)迷戀流行文化的LSD販子會(huì)怎么樣?他可能會(huì)創(chuàng)作類似藝術(shù)家阿運(yùn)·拉挽猜哥(Navin Rawanchaikul)的《超級(jí)(市場(chǎng))藝術(shù)曼谷幸存者》(Super[M]art Bangkok Survivor)這樣的作品，這是一幅巨大、狂亂、瘋狂、卡通化的壁畫，充滿了道德敗壞的泰國(guó)人物，有真實(shí)的，也有虛構(gòu)的，包括佩有卡拉什尼科夫步槍的佛陀;嘔吐的紋身僧侶;大象;偉士牌輕型摩托(Vespas);大胖子和著名的連體雙胞胎：昌和恩·邦卡(Chang and Eng Bunker)。這幅作品是2016年開放的世界級(jí)博物館MAIIAM的招牌展品。它的泰國(guó)當(dāng)代藝術(shù)永久館藏還包括阿拉雅·拉斯賈姆里亞恩蘇克(Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook)俏皮陰險(xiǎn)的雕塑斷肢，以及差猜·普伊皮亞(Chatchai Puipia)痛苦嚎叫的面孔畫作。從市區(qū)出發(fā)，乘坐出租車或搭順風(fēng)車，大約30分鐘可以到達(dá)MAIIAM。門票：150泰銖。

Accommodations 住宿

Somebody likes bikes at Room No. 7 Hotel (9 Nimmanhaemin Soi 7, 66-63-797-7997), which opened in 2016 in the Nimmanhaemin Road district. Some of the 21 rooms have a motorcycle theme (others are more minimalist white or gray), and common areas are decorated with vintage Vespas and motorbikes. Doubles from 1,250 baht.

有人喜歡7號(hào)房間酒店(9 尼曼路 7,66-63-797-7997)的摩托車，該酒店于2016年在尼曼路區(qū)開業(yè)。21間客房中，部分客房擁有摩托車主題(其他房間是更為簡(jiǎn)約的白色或灰色風(fēng)格)，公共區(qū)域裝飾著復(fù)古的輕型摩托和摩托車。兩人間1250泰銖。

A luxurious and stylish option along the riverfront, the 19-room Hotel des Artists Ping Silhouette (181 Charoenrat Road, 66-53-249-999) is a jigsaw of right angles and dark colors with pool, spa, tearoom, restaurant and large groomed backyard lounge along the water. Doubles from 4,000 baht.

沿著河邊還有其他豪華時(shí)尚的選擇，比如擁有19間客房的Hotel des Artists Ping Silhouette(查隆叻路181號(hào)，66-53-249-999)如同一幅深色方塊拼圖，有游泳池、水療中心、茶室、餐廳，后院有寬大整潔的休息室。兩人間4000泰銖。

If you do plan a trip to Chiang Mai, check out these suggestions on what to pack for the trip from our colleagues at Wirecutter.

如果你計(jì)劃去清邁旅行，請(qǐng)查看我們?cè)赪irecutter的同事關(guān)于準(zhǔn)備旅行的建議。