在東京，與古董表藏家聊聊手腕上的故事

When it comes to describing food, fashion or culture in Tokyo, fans often find themselves using superlatives. And the vintage watch scene is much the same: Tokyo is one of the best places in the world to hunt for classic treasures. The city is filled with secondhand shops and most of the pre-owned timepieces on sale are in pristine condition.

在描述東京的食物、時(shí)尚或文化時(shí)，粉絲們經(jīng)常不吝溢美之詞。古董表市場(chǎng)也差不多：東京是世界上尋找經(jīng)典手表的最佳地點(diǎn)之一。這座城市里有很多二手店，大部分古董時(shí)計(jì)都是在未經(jīng)翻新的狀態(tài)下出售的。

But insiders looking for vintage come to Jack Road in the Nakano ward, a crowded residential district just west of the trendy Shinjuku area. There, on the third floor of a covered shopping arcade lined with fragrant takoyaki stalls, ramen shops and eclectic clothing boutiques, is Nakano Broadway, a manga emporium and favorite of pop-culture obsessed youth. It also is a treasure chest for watch collectors, and a prime place to talk with vintage enthusiasts.

但是，搜尋古董手表的行家里手會(huì)造訪中野區(qū)的店鋪杰克路(Jack Road)。中野區(qū)是一個(gè)擁擠的住宅區(qū)，位于時(shí)尚的新宿區(qū)的西面。杰克路位于中野百老匯(Nakano Broadway)三樓，那是一個(gè)有頂蓋的購(gòu)物中心，排列著香氣撲鼻的章魚(yú)丸攤位、拉面館和五花八門(mén)的服裝精品店，這里是一個(gè)動(dòng)漫商場(chǎng)，深受迷戀流行文化的年輕人喜愛(ài)。它也是手表藏家的寶庫(kù)，是和古董表愛(ài)好者聊天的最佳場(chǎng)所。

Ryuji Sakimae

佐喜真隆二(Ryuji Sakimae，音)

Occupation: Business owner

職業(yè)：企業(yè)主

Watch: Rolex Submariner Reference 5512 (1968)

手表：勞力士Submariner Reference5512(1968)

I’m fascinated with vintage watches and their condition, color, history, individuality. Looks don’t matter as much, but they contain many stories that you’ll just never know about and that’s very appealing to me.

我著迷于古董表和它們的品相、顏色、歷史、個(gè)性。外觀相對(duì)不重要，但它們身上有很多你永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)知道的故事，這對(duì)我非常有吸引力。

This watch, the color is so amazing — this model is in such good condition. I thought, this is my last chance to find a watch in this condition. It was striking to me because it’s vintage. My heart got a spark when I saw it but I cannot really pinpoint why exactly I fell for it. I never actually intended to buy this particular watch, but my instinct told me that’s what I wanted.

這只手表，顏色如此驚人，這一款品相如此之好。我想，這是我能找到這種品相的手表的最后機(jī)會(huì)了。我很驚訝，因?yàn)樗枪哦?。我看到它時(shí)，感覺(jué)心被觸動(dòng)了，但是我也說(shuō)不清為什么會(huì)迷上它。我沒(méi)有買這只特別手表的計(jì)劃，但是我的本能告訴我，這就是我想要的東西。

Watch lovers notice my watch and comment on it, but people who are not into watches think I’m foolish to wear something so expensive and so old, especially. Some people only think about the fact that it’s old and don’t consider the value — they don’t understand, and they worry about the maintenance costs associated to vintage watches. For them, old and expensive doesn’t make any sense. I chose this because I felt inspired by it, and I don’t care what people say or think.

愛(ài)表一族會(huì)注意到我的手表并評(píng)論一番，但不喜歡表的人會(huì)覺(jué)得我傻，戴這么貴，還這么舊的東西。一些人只想到了它舊這個(gè)事實(shí)，沒(méi)有考慮到它的價(jià)值。他們不懂，擔(dān)心古董表帶來(lái)的維護(hù)費(fèi)用。對(duì)他們來(lái)說(shuō)，舊和貴不搭界。選擇這款表是因?yàn)槲矣X(jué)得它給了我靈感，我不在乎別人怎么說(shuō)或怎么想。

I’m attracted to the flavor of vintage watches, to their essence. I can’t really describe what makes this essence, but there is nothing that compares to vintage watches. I will continue to wear this watch for a very long time. The best thing about owning a vintage watch is that there is only one in the world with that particular story.

我被古董表的韻味和精髓所吸引。我真的說(shuō)不出是什么成就了這種精髓，但沒(méi)什么能和古董表相提并論。我會(huì)繼續(xù)長(zhǎng)期戴這塊表。擁有一塊古董表最棒的一點(diǎn)在于，世界上有著那個(gè)特定故事的表僅有一塊。

Kenichi Abe

安倍健一(Kenichi Abe，音)

Occupation: Store Manager

職業(yè)：店鋪經(jīng)理

Watch: Rolex GMT Master (1982)

手表：勞力士GMT Master(1982)

I chose this watch because of the colors. This part here on the dial is actually gold but it faded a bit. I like that it faded out though, it really gives it a more vintage feel. The dial is a deep chocolate brown; I think this is so cool, so beautiful. The mood of this watch matches my personality very well.

我選這塊表是因?yàn)樗念伾?。表盤(pán)的這一部分其實(shí)是金色，但有點(diǎn)褪色了。盡管褪色了，實(shí)際上卻會(huì)讓它有更古老的感覺(jué)，我喜歡。表盤(pán)是深巧克力棕色，我覺(jué)得這個(gè)顏色很酷，很漂亮。這塊表的風(fēng)格非常適合我的個(gè)性。

I’ve been attracted to vintage watches for a long time. I used to sell an array of vintage goods, such as American antiques. I remember the first Rolex watch I acquired — that’s when I discovered this whole world of vintage watches. At that time, I was also into vintage clothes so it all fit really well.

我喜歡古董手表很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間了。我過(guò)去賣過(guò)很多古董，比如美國(guó)古董。我記得自己買的第一塊勞力士。就是那個(gè)時(shí)候，我發(fā)現(xiàn)了古董表的世界。那時(shí)候我也喜歡古舊服飾，所以真的很搭。

Vintage watches are first and foremost a fashion item for me, a good match to my personal style. The new watches are missing that essence, so they don’t compare. Vintage watches have existed for many years, so they become more fashionable with time. For me, the history really matters, as each vintage watch tells a story. And to own that history is something very important to me. And to continue the history of this watch, to take it into the future and to create even more history is a very romantic idea to me. I want to leave this watch in good condition to pass it down to the next generation.

對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，古董表首先是一種時(shí)尚單品，很符合我個(gè)人的風(fēng)格。新表少了那種精髓，所以不能與之相提并論。古董表存在很多年了，因此它們會(huì)隨著時(shí)間的推移而變得更加受歡迎。對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，歷史真的很重要，因?yàn)槊恳粔K古董表都有自己的故事。擁有那段歷史對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)非常重要。而繼續(xù)這塊表的歷史，讓它走向未來(lái)并創(chuàng)造更多的歷史，對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)是一個(gè)非常浪漫的想法。我希望把這塊表保存完好，傳給下一代。

Yushi Higaki

檜垣裕志(Yushi Higaki)

Occupation: Soccer Coach

職業(yè)：足球教練

Watch: Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.022 (late 1960s)

手表：歐米茄(Omega)Speedmaster Professional 145.022(20世紀(jì)60年代末)

Vintage watches are usually in mint condition in Japan. Like most other vintage items, people tend to take good care of their possessions. When I wear my watch out, I always protect my wrist in crowded trains. Or when I go out drinking in a bar, I’m careful not to damage it. I move my body accordingly as to not touch others with my watch and damage it — maybe because I’m a soccer player. I feel worried to wear some of my vintage watches on a daily basis, they’re so easily damaged, so some of them I just keep in display cases in my house and I look at them. They’re like pieces of art for me.

在日本，古董表常常完好無(wú)損。和其他大部分古董物品一樣，人們往往會(huì)小心保護(hù)自己的手表。戴表出門(mén)時(shí)，我總是會(huì)在擁擠的火車上護(hù)住自己的手腕。或者去酒吧喝酒時(shí)，我會(huì)小心翼翼，避免劃傷它。為了不讓表因?yàn)榕龅狡渌硕軗p，我會(huì)相應(yīng)地移動(dòng)身體——也許因?yàn)槲沂翘咦闱虻?。天天戴古董表我?huì)感到擔(dān)心，它們太容易受損，因此我只能把其中一些放在家里的陳列柜里，用來(lái)觀賞。對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，他們就像藝術(shù)品一樣。

Just like human beings, vintage watches have their own history, so I enjoy that part. I’ve been searching for my best watch in the 200-plus I’ve owned, but I’m still looking for it. Maybe next year I’ll change my mind though, and I won’t find a better one. Or maybe I haven’t met my best watch yet — the quest is ongoing and that’s what I enjoy the most. I’m always searching for something.

就像人一樣，古董表有自己的歷史，我很喜歡這一點(diǎn)。我一直在自己的200多塊古董表里尋找最好的那一塊，但直到現(xiàn)在都還沒(méi)找到。也許明年我就改變主意了，找不到更好的了。也或許我還沒(méi)碰到最好的那一塊。尋找仍在繼續(xù)，這是我最喜歡的。我總是在尋找。

Vintage watches make me feel more calm than digital ones. My feelings are very high and at the same time, they give me good vibes. This watch brings back memories of when I was in my 20s living in Brazil, so it’s a nice feeling. Since I played soccer in Brazil, and discovered vintage watches at that time. It led me to where I am now, so it’s all associated to memories and that’s important to me.

古董表比數(shù)字手表更能讓我感到平靜。與此同時(shí)，我的情緒昂揚(yáng)，它們會(huì)給我?guī)?lái)好心情。這塊表讓我想起了自己20多歲時(shí)在巴西生活的那段回憶，這種感覺(jué)很好。因?yàn)槲以诎臀魈哌^(guò)球，也是在那時(shí)發(fā)現(xiàn)古董手表的。它引領(lǐng)我成為了現(xiàn)在的自己，因此它和記憶聯(lián)系在一起，這對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)很重要。

Chisato Kato

加戶千里(Chisato Kato，音)

Occupation: Web director

職業(yè)：網(wǎng)絡(luò)總監(jiān)

Watch: Christian Dior for Bulova (1972) 手表：Christian Dior for Bulova(1972)

When my mother got married, her two brothers gave her that watch, which she passed down to me five years ago. The first time I encountered a vintage watch, I was charmed by how I had to wind it up, and by the ticking sound it made when I put it up close to my ear. I love listening to that sound.

我母親結(jié)婚時(shí)，她的兩個(gè)兄弟送了這塊表給她。五年前，她傳給了我。第一次看到古董表時(shí)，我就被要怎么給它上發(fā)條，和我把它拿到耳朵跟前時(shí)聽(tīng)到的滴答聲迷住了。我喜歡聽(tīng)那種聲音。

Nowadays there is a lot of fast fashion, people buy it and throw it away so quickly, but vintage watches are so different. They are a useful item, and they’re something you keep in the long term and you can pass it down to the next generation. I never sold any of my vintage watches. They were mostly all gifts, and I intend to keep them forever.

現(xiàn)如今有很多快時(shí)尚，人們買得快，扔得也快，但古董表截然不同。它們是有用的東西，你會(huì)長(zhǎng)期保留，還可以傳給下一代。我從來(lái)沒(méi)有賣過(guò)一塊古董表。它們幾乎都是禮物，我打算一直留著。

When it comes to choosing a vintage watch, the appearance is my priority but of course it’s nice to know and imagine what kind of person used to wear it, so I like the story behind it. I like to imagine the background, the life of the person who used to wear it — it all feels so sentimental. The reason why I don’t sell my watches is because I create memories through those watches, so I want to keep them and carry the memories of the person who previously owned it. It’s a precious item.

說(shuō)到挑選古董表，外觀是我優(yōu)先考慮的，但知道和想象什么人戴過(guò)它當(dāng)然也很重要，所以說(shuō)我喜歡它們背后的故事。我喜歡想象它以前的主人的歷史和生活——感覺(jué)充斥著情感。我不賣表是因?yàn)槲視?huì)通過(guò)這些表創(chuàng)造回憶，所以我希望留著它們，并傳遞它之前的主人的記憶。這很寶貴。

Shigeko Homma

本間成子(Shigeko Homma，音)

Occupation: Office Worker

職業(yè)：辦公室職員

Watch: Cartier (1920s)

手表：卡地亞(1920年代)

My priority when choosing a vintage watch is the look and the style. Vintage watches are an accessory that I can match to my clothes or to the kimono I choose to wear on any given day. A vintage watch is a must-have item — a necessity! It’s also a treasure.

選擇古董表的時(shí)候，我最看重外觀和風(fēng)格。古董表這種配飾，可以用來(lái)搭配我隨便哪一天的著裝或者選擇穿上身的和服。一塊古董表是必備品——必不可少!它也是一件珍寶。

I believe there are watches that should only be worn with kimono and others only with casual clothes. For work, I wear regular clothes, but when I go out at night I wear kimono — I often wear it. Kimono is more comfortable than normal clothes for me, especially in summer. I don’t think most women who wear kimono care to match their watch to their kimono. For me though, it’s very important. I don’t even know or care about the brand of the watches — only the look matters.

我認(rèn)為有些手表只能配和服，還有一些只能配便裝。上班時(shí)我會(huì)穿常規(guī)服裝，但晚上出門(mén)時(shí)我會(huì)穿和服——我經(jīng)常穿和服。在我看來(lái)，和服比常規(guī)服裝更舒適，尤其是在夏天。我覺(jué)得大多數(shù)穿和服的女性都不會(huì)刻意戴上與和服相配的手表。但對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)，這很重要。我甚至不知道也不關(guān)心手表的牌子——只要外觀匹配就行。

This one is Cartier? I didn’t even know! I picked it solely based on what it looks like.

這塊是卡地亞(Cartier)?我根本不知道!我挑了它完全是基于它的樣子。

This watch is from the 1920s. I don’t have any special stories about my vintage watches and I’m honestly not all that interested in their background. I mostly care about their beauty and appearance!

這塊表來(lái)自1920年代。我的古董表都沒(méi)什么特別的故事，說(shuō)老實(shí)話我對(duì)它們的背景也不感興趣。我最關(guān)心的是它們的美感和外表。

I never purposely look for vintage watches to buy, they just come to me. Sometimes I pass the shop and one jumps to my eyes. I know right away when I see a watch I love, I say to myself, “This is mine!”

我從未刻意去買古董表，只是和它們不期而遇。有時(shí)我經(jīng)過(guò)一個(gè)店鋪，一塊表恰好映入眼簾。看到自己喜歡的手表時(shí)，我立刻就會(huì)知道。我對(duì)自己說(shuō)，“這塊表是我的!”

I could not tell you exactly what style I go for, but I just know instinctively what I love. I just know.

我無(wú)法確切告訴你我喜歡什么風(fēng)格，但我憑直覺(jué)知道自己喜歡什么。我就是知道。