好萊塢奧斯卡時(shí)裝周?

Fashion’s Hollywood Connection

好萊塢奧斯卡時(shí)裝周?

It was 6:30 on the Friday before Oscars Sunday, and the W editor, Stefano Tonchi, was craving a little quiet time. He was standing in the fortresslike Milk Studios in Hollywood, which was the site of that evening’s Tom Ford fashion show. He had gotten off a flight that afternoon.

奧斯卡頒獎(jiǎng)禮前的周五下午6點(diǎn)半，《W》雜志的主編斯特凡諾·通奇(Stefano Tonchi)想要安靜一會(huì)兒。他站在好萊塢米爾克工作室(Milk Studios)里，這個(gè)堡壘般的建筑是當(dāng)晚湯姆·福特(Tom Ford)時(shí)裝秀的舉辦地。當(dāng)天下午他剛下飛機(jī)。

“I got my hotel room at the last minute,” he said, vodka tonic in hand. “I wanted to have a cup of coffee and eat some French fries and sit down and make a phone call.”

“我到最后一刻才訂上酒店，”他手里拿著伏特加湯尼水說，“我本想喝杯咖啡，吃點(diǎn)薯?xiàng)l，坐下來打個(gè)電話。”

From left, Julianne Moore; her husband, the director Bart Freundlich; and Kristen Stewart at a pre-Oscars party in Beverly Hills hosted by Chanel and Charles Finch.

(左起)朱利安·摩爾、她的丈夫巴特·弗羅因德利克、克里斯汀·斯圖爾特在香奈兒和查爾斯·芬奇舉辦的奧斯卡前奏派對(duì)上。

So he headed off to the Sunset Tower’s bar to unwind. That didn’t happen.

所以他前往日落塔酒店(Sunset Tower)的酒吧去放松一下。但他沒能如愿以償。

“There wasn’t one person I didn’t know,” he said, recalling the scene. There was a Burberry executive; a Harper’s Bazaar editor; Rachel Zoe’s husband, Rodger Berman; the fashion habitué Derek Blasberg; and the son of the owner of Tod’s.

“那里的人我都認(rèn)識(shí)，”他回憶起當(dāng)時(shí)的情景。包括博柏利(Burberry)的一個(gè)高管、《芭莎》(Harper’s Bazaar)的主編、雷切爾·佐伊(Rachel Zoe)的丈夫羅杰·伯曼(Rodger Berman)、時(shí)尚名人德里克·布拉斯伯格(Derek Blasberg)，以及Tod’s所有者的兒子。

The cocktail hour surrounding Mr. Tonchi at Milk Studios was no different: there was John Demsey, the group president of Estée Lauder Companies; Leonard Lauder himself; Anna Wintour; the Cosmopolitan editor, Joanna Coles; and the Lucky editor, Eva Chen. Not to mention the ridiculous number of A-list stars all around, a front row that included Gwyneth Paltrow, Scarlett Johansson, Beyoncé, Jay Z, Miley Cyrus, Julianne Moore and Jennifer Lopez.

在米爾克工作室的雞尾酒派對(duì)上，通奇依然被熟人包圍：雅詩蘭黛(Estée Lauder)集團(tuán)的總裁約翰·丹姆塞(John Demsey)、萊昂納德·勞德(Leonard Lauder)本人、安娜·溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)、《Cosmopolitan》的主編喬安娜·科爾斯(Joanna Coles)，以及《Lucky》的主編陳怡樺(Eva Chen)。更不必說還有數(shù)量驚人的一線明星，包括格溫妮絲·帕特洛(Gwyneth Paltrow)、斯嘉麗·約翰遜(Scarlett Johansson)、碧昂斯(Beyoncé)、Jay Z、麥莉·塞勒斯(Miley Cyrus)、朱利安·摩爾(Julianne Moore)和珍妮弗·洛佩茲(Jennifer Lopez)。

Fashion and the Oscars have gone hand in hand for decades, but it’s never been like this.

幾十年來，時(shí)尚與奧斯卡一直攜手共進(jìn)，但從未如此親近。

The Oscars weekend this year wasn’t just the usual smattering of editors grading the red carpet or the spare designer in town to do a fitting. A significant chunk of the New York fashion world (and the fashion world at large) came here to attend Mr. Ford’s show and absorb the craziness of the rest of Oscars weekend. Mr. Ford skipped out on showing in London this year, and these folks, in turn, did exactly the same.

今年的奧斯卡周末不像往年，只有點(diǎn)評(píng)紅毯造型的時(shí)尚編輯，或者協(xié)助試衣的本地備用設(shè)計(jì)師。紐約時(shí)尚界(乃至整個(gè)時(shí)尚界)的很多人來這里觀看福特的時(shí)裝秀，感受奧斯卡周末的別樣瘋狂。今年，福特沒有在倫敦舉辦時(shí)裝秀，在場(chǎng)的這些人也都沒去。

“The second I heard it,” Ms. Wintour said, when asked when she knew she’d forgo London in favor of Los Angeles to see Mr. Ford. “Tom Ford’s a huge draw. He’s showing here for the first time, and it was a brilliant move on his part.”

當(dāng)溫圖爾被問及何時(shí)知道自己不會(huì)去倫敦而是來洛杉磯觀看福特時(shí)裝秀時(shí)，她說，“我一聽說就這么決定了。湯姆·福特對(duì)我很有吸引力。他是第一次在這里舉辦時(shí)裝秀，就他而言可謂明智之舉。”

The Oscars usually conflicts with the European collections (two years ago, it was Milan; last year, it was Paris; this year, London), but this was the first time Ms. Wintour would attend the Academy Awards (she attended the Vanity Fair Oscars party once before).

奧斯卡頒獎(jiǎng)禮經(jīng)常與歐洲的時(shí)裝周在時(shí)間上發(fā)生沖突(兩年前是和米蘭時(shí)裝周，去年是和巴黎時(shí)裝周，今年是和倫敦時(shí)裝周)，不過這是溫圖爾第一次參加奧斯卡頒獎(jiǎng)禮(她曾參加過《名利場(chǎng)》的一次奧斯卡余興派對(duì))。

“You’ll be sick of seeing me,” she added, as she made her way into the show.

“你會(huì)經(jīng)常見到我，估計(jì)會(huì)看煩的，”她在前往時(shí)裝秀的路上補(bǔ)充說。

Hollywood may be a one-industry town, but it was more than accommodating of the endless amount of fashion parties, lunches and dinners this year.

好萊塢也許只是個(gè)電影之城，但是今年這里舉辦了無數(shù)時(shí)尚派對(duì)、午餐會(huì)和晚宴。

“I’ve been living out here for 22 years, working in this business off and on that whole time, and I’ve never seen anything like it,” said Crystal Lourd, the Los Angeles socialite who has worked as a celebrity wrangler for labels like Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren. “I think people realize that it’s a profitable thing for their business to get the exposure.”

“我在這里住了22年，一直斷斷續(xù)續(xù)在這個(gè)行業(yè)工作，從沒見過這種情況，”洛杉磯社會(huì)名流克里斯特爾·盧爾(Crystal Lourd)說。她的工作是在名人和時(shí)裝名牌(比如湯姆·福特和拉夫·勞倫[Ralph Lauren])之間牽線搭橋。“我覺得，人們意識(shí)到，讓自己的品牌更多地出現(xiàn)在公眾面前，能帶來商業(yè)利益。”

Ms. Lourd was speaking from an event earlier on Feb. 20, a luncheon that Net-a-Porter was hosting for the makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury.

盧爾的這番話是2月20日在Net-a-Porter為彩妝師夏洛特·蒂爾伯里(Tilbury)舉辦的午宴上說的。

But there was something distinct about this lunch: Ms. Tilbury is a Briton, and there were a whole lot of British accents in this courtyard at the restaurant A.O.C. in Beverly Hills. Shouldn’t these turncoats be in London?

不過，這次午宴有個(gè)獨(dú)特之處：蒂爾伯里是英國(guó)人，在貝弗利山A.O.C.餐館的這個(gè)庭院里到處都能聽到英國(guó)口音。這些“叛徒”不是應(yīng)該在倫敦嗎?

“It’s all about the red carpet,” Ms. Tilbury said. “Who can ignore the red carpet?”

“這全是因?yàn)閵W斯卡紅毯，”蒂爾伯里說，“誰能忽視它呢?”

This was a convenient answer: Ms. Tilbury’s new makeup, Goddess Skin Clay Mask, includes the tag line “The new red carpet beauty secret of the stars.”

下面這個(gè)事實(shí)正好回答了這個(gè)問題：蒂爾伯里的新化妝品女神粘土清潔面膜(Goddess Skin Clay Mask)的廣告語是“明星紅毯美麗妝容的新秘密”。

“The heat is in L.A. this weekend,” said Lucy Yeomans, the Net-a-Porter and Porter magazine editor, sounding resigned.

“這個(gè)周末的熱門地點(diǎn)是洛杉磯，”Net-a-Porter網(wǎng)站和《Porter》雜志的主編露西·約曼斯(Lucy Yeomans)無奈地說道。

The model and socialite Poppy Delevingne, who calls London her hometown, was less forgiving.

來自倫敦的模特、社會(huì)名流波普伊·德萊文涅(Poppy Delevingne)可沒有那么客氣。

“We’re sorry, but the sunshine is too tempting,” she said. “To be honest, I’m out here for pilot season. But there are just so many great things going on. This lunch for Charlotte, the Diane von Furstenberg picnic tomorrow, the Chanel dinner tomorrow and Vanity Fair on Sunday. It’s like fashion week out here.”

“我們是有點(diǎn)慚愧，但這里的陽光太誘人了，”她說，“坦白地說，我來這里是為了樣片季。不過這里還有很多精彩活動(dòng)。為夏洛特舉辦的這個(gè)午餐會(huì)、明天黛安·馮芙絲汀寶(Diane von Furstenberg)的野餐會(huì)和香奈兒(Chanel)的晚宴，以及周日的《名利場(chǎng)》派對(duì)。這里簡(jiǎn)直像時(shí)裝周。”

Rachel Zoe, the Los Angeles-based stylist, was just a few feet away, and delighted by this.

洛杉磯造型師雷切爾·佐伊就在幾英尺之外。她倒是樂于見到這個(gè)現(xiàn)象。

“This makes me happy,” she said. “The fashion world has migrated to L.A. in a way that I haven’t seen in I don’t think ever.”

“這讓我很高興，”她說，“時(shí)尚界以我所料不及的方式搬到了洛杉磯。”

At Mr. Ford’s show that night, the mood was relaxed, unlike the normal get-in-and-get-out spirit of most fashion shows.

在當(dāng)晚的福特時(shí)裝秀上，人們的心情很放松，與大部分時(shí)裝秀上匆忙趕場(chǎng)的氣氛迥然不同。

People arrived for cocktails close to the appointed hour, 6 p.m., and relaxed over vodka and champagne. Ms. Paltrow stood at the bar with three friends for almost 40 minutes before everyone was summoned a little after 7. (Even Ms. Wintour, notorious for bursting out of her seat the second a show ends, mingled after the show.)

約定的時(shí)間是下午6點(diǎn)，人們稍微提前到場(chǎng)，喝點(diǎn)伏特加和香檳，放松精神。帕特洛和三位朋友在吧臺(tái)待了近40分鐘，7點(diǎn)多和大家一起被召喚去觀看時(shí)裝秀(時(shí)裝秀結(jié)束后，甚至連溫圖爾也逗留一會(huì)兒。眾所周知，以前時(shí)裝秀一結(jié)束，她馬上離開)。

“Like we didn’t have enough to do already,” Ms. Paltrow said, laughing. “But you know what? I love the fact that Tom’s saying there aren’t rules in fashion anymore, that there aren’t seasons.”

“就好像我們已經(jīng)沒事可做了似的，”帕特洛大笑著說道。“但是你知道嗎?我很喜歡湯姆說出的事實(shí)：時(shí)尚界不再有規(guī)則，不再有所謂的時(shí)裝季。”

Just don’t tell that to the British designers.

別把這些告訴英國(guó)的設(shè)計(jì)師們。

Mr. Ford said he knew he would have no problems filling this room, either with celebrities or big-time editors. He knew in his heart the attraction of Oscars week.

福特說，他知道，讓這個(gè)房間坐滿并不難，不管是名人還是大牌編輯。他打心底里清楚“奧斯卡周”的魅力。

“My agent’s at C.A.A., and the C.A.A. party is right after this,” he said, after the show, referring to the pre-Oscars party hosted by the Creative Artists Agency. “I go every year and know people get dressed up on Friday night. I used to have an Oscars party on Thursday night. It started with 70 people, and it went up to about 250 people. I had people offering to buy my Oscar party slot on Thursday night because they knew I swept up a lot of people.”

“我的經(jīng)紀(jì)公司是創(chuàng)意藝術(shù)家代理公司(Creative Artists Agency)，他們的派對(duì)就在我的時(shí)裝秀之后舉行，”他在時(shí)裝秀結(jié)束后說。他指的是創(chuàng)意藝術(shù)家代理公司舉辦的奧斯卡前奏派對(duì)。“我每年都去，知道人們會(huì)在周五晚上盛裝前往。我曾在周四晚上舉辦過一個(gè)奧斯卡派對(duì)。一開始是70個(gè)人的規(guī)模，后來增加到約250人。有人甚至提出購買周四晚上我舉辦奧斯卡派對(duì)的那個(gè)時(shí)段，因?yàn)樗麄冎牢夷芪芏嗳恕?rdquo;

He hasn’t held the party in a few years, he said, but he learned a valuable lesson: “I knew these people were in town, they were all friends and hopefully they had to come.”

他說，最近幾年他沒有舉辦奧斯卡派對(duì)，不過他得到了一個(gè)寶貴的經(jīng)驗(yàn)：“我知道這些人都在城里，他們都是朋友，所以很可能都會(huì)來。”

Like Ms. Johansson.

比如斯嘉麗·約翰遜。

“It’s unexpected to see an event like this in L.A. more than anything,” she said from her front-row seat. “I remember Fashion Week in L.A., which feels like a relic from the past.”

“洛杉磯會(huì)舉辦這樣一個(gè)活動(dòng)真是出人意料，”她坐在前排說，“我還記得洛杉磯時(shí)裝周，感覺像是一個(gè)歷史遺跡。”

If Fashion Week in Los Angeles isn’t making a roaring comeback, then the fashion world has conceded it has to have a permanent place out here, at least for this weekend.

即便洛杉磯時(shí)裝周沒有高調(diào)回歸，時(shí)尚界也已承認(rèn)，它必須在這里擁有永恒的地位，至少在這個(gè)周末。

The Italian label Armani is no stranger to dressing celebrities, but it has finally ritualized an event: a pre-Oscars cocktail party, which began last year.

意大利品牌阿瑪尼(Armani)是為名人設(shè)計(jì)服裝的老手，不過它最終把一個(gè)活動(dòng)變成了固定項(xiàng)目：去年開始的奧斯卡前奏雞尾酒派對(duì)。

“My uncle invented a business that didn’t exist before,” said Roberta Armani, from the terrace of the Armani store on North Rodeo Drive. “In the ’80s, he dressed celebrities when no one did it.”

“我叔叔開創(chuàng)了一個(gè)前所未有的生意，”羅伯塔·阿瑪尼(Roberta Armani)在北羅德奧大道阿瑪尼店鋪的陽臺(tái)上說，“20世紀(jì)80年代，他開始給名人設(shè)計(jì)服裝，以前沒人這么做過。”

Armani held a couture show here eight years ago, the weekend before the Oscars, which was similarly star-studded. Ms. Armani said that it was time to put something more permanent on the schedule by hosting this party, which included Cate Blanchett and Chris Pine.

八年前，在奧斯卡頒獎(jiǎng)禮前的周末，阿瑪尼在這里舉辦了一場(chǎng)高級(jí)定制時(shí)裝秀，也是明星云集。羅伯塔·阿瑪尼說，舉辦這個(gè)派對(duì)是為了把某種更為永久性的東西安排到日程上。參加派對(duì)的有凱特·布蘭切特(Cate Blanchett)和克里斯·派恩(Chris Pine)。

Later Saturday evening, Ms. Wintour and the designer Tommy Hilfiger went to a Harvey Weinstein dinner, and Chanel, along with Charles Finch, held a dinner of its own at Madeo, which included Jessica Chastain, Kristen Stewart and Keira Knightley.

周六深夜，溫圖爾和設(shè)計(jì)師湯米·希爾費(fèi)格(Tommy Hilfiger)參加了哈維·溫斯坦(Harvey Weinstein)的晚宴。香奈兒和查爾斯·芬奇(Charles Finch)在Madeo餐館舉辦了自己的晚宴，到場(chǎng)明星包括杰西卡·查斯坦(Jessica Chastain)、克里斯汀·斯圖爾特(Kristen Stewart)和凱拉·奈特利(Keira Knightley)。

Earlier that day, Ms. von Furstenberg and Barry Diller held their annual pre-Oscars picnic for a crowd of a little more than 400 at their estate in Beverly Hills. Among the media moguls (Les Moonves, Jeff Bezos, Rupert Murdoch), there were a bunch of models who stood out conspicuously among the picnic blankets. Ms. Wintour sat at a picnic table and ate lunch with Mr. Ford’s husband, Richard Buckley.

當(dāng)天早些時(shí)候，馮芙絲汀寶和巴里·迪勒(Barry Diller)在貝弗利山宅邸舉辦了年度奧斯卡前奏野餐會(huì)，出席者達(dá)400多人。野餐會(huì)上，媒體大亨(包括萊斯利·穆弗斯[Les Moonves]、杰夫·貝佐斯[Jeff Bezos]、魯伯特·默多克[Rupert Murdoch])云集，一群模特在野餐毯上顯得格外醒目。溫圖爾坐在野餐桌邊，和福特的丈夫理查德·巴克利(Richard Buckley)一起吃著午餐。

One night later, at the Vanity Fair Oscars after-party, no one was working the room harder than the Valentino public relations chief, Carlos Souza.

第二天晚上，在《名利場(chǎng)》的奧斯卡余興派對(duì)上，沒人比華倫天奴(Valentino)的公關(guān)總監(jiān)卡洛斯·索薩(Carlos Souza)更忙碌。

“Julianne!” he screamed at Ms. Moore, who was racing out of the party with her Oscar in hand. “Carlos from Valentino.”

“朱利安!”他沖著摩爾喊道。后者正手握奧斯卡獎(jiǎng)座快步離開派對(duì)，“我是華倫天奴的卡洛斯。”

She stopped and they hugged. He examined her Oscar.

她停下腳步，他們擁抱了一下。他仔細(xì)查看她的奧斯卡獎(jiǎng)座。

It may as well have been a Valentino event. There were models galore (Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Gigi Hadid) and designers, including the Calvin Klein creative director, Francisco Costa, and Mr. Hilfiger. Mr. Costa dressed Lupita Nyong’o in a dress that featured 6,000 pearls (and was stolen from her hotel room).

這簡(jiǎn)直像是華倫天奴舉辦的活動(dòng)。派對(duì)上有很多模特(瓊·斯莫爾[Joan Smalls]、卡莉·克洛斯[Karlie Kloss]、吉吉·哈迪德[Gigi Hadid])和設(shè)計(jì)師，包括Calvin Klein的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)弗朗西斯科·科斯塔(Francisco Costa)和希爾費(fèi)格?？扑顾o露皮塔·尼永奧(Lupita Nyong’o)設(shè)計(jì)的連衣裙上鑲有6000顆珍珠(這件裙子在她的酒店房間被偷走了)。

“I flew out to L.A. on Friday morning right after my show,” Mr. Costa wrote by email, after the party. “It’s really critical for me to be there for the final fittings as that’s where the magic happens.”

“周五早上，時(shí)裝秀一結(jié)束，我就飛往洛杉磯，”派對(duì)結(jié)束后，科斯塔在郵件中寫道，“我到現(xiàn)場(chǎng)協(xié)助最后的試穿很重要，因?yàn)槟抢锸瞧孥E發(fā)生的地方。”

Mr. Hilfiger said that he had been coming out here for about six years.

希爾費(fèi)格說，大概在過去六年里，每年的這個(gè)時(shí)候他都來這里。

“There’s always some sort of business benefit to this,” he said. “I also went out because my daughter recently had a baby, I came to visit my grandchild, and my son Richard is dating Rita Ora. She performed at Harvey’s event and the Oscars.”

“來這兒總會(huì)獲得一些商業(yè)益處，”他說，“我來這里的另一個(gè)原因是我女兒剛生了孩子，我來看外孫。我兒子理查德(Richard)正在和麗塔·奧拉(Rita Ora)交往。她是哈維的晚宴和奧斯卡頒獎(jiǎng)禮上的表演嘉賓。”