2014，一個(gè)折騰的時(shí)尚年

1. INFLUENCERS: IN AND OUT

1. 有影響力的人：流行與過時(shí)

In a Kardashian world, where it often seems the bigger and blingier the better (at least for the blogosphere), the debuts of Lupita Nyong’o and Amal Alamuddin as sartorial tastemakers stood out for their sheer elegance and refusal to play the over-the-top game. Rather, they proved that restraint and exquisite taste (and a refusal to pander to the common social media denominator) can have its own explosive effect.

在卡戴珊的世界里，似乎是越大、越奢華越好(至少對(duì)博客圈來說是這樣)，但露皮塔·尼永奧(Lupita Nyong’o)和阿邁勒·阿拉姆丁(Amal Alamuddin)以絕對(duì)優(yōu)雅、拒絕夸張脫穎而出，成為新的時(shí)尚領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者。她們證明，克制和精致品味(以及拒絕迎合社交媒體的常見標(biāo)準(zhǔn))有它自己的爆炸性效果。

From her red caped Ralph Lauren at the Golden Globes to her “Nairobi blue” Prada gown at the Oscars, Ms. Nyong’o offered an ode to the memorable effects of saturated color and simple lines. The new Mrs. Clooney, a human rights lawyer, used her three-day Venetian wedding as a showcase of what it means to look smart, in every sense of the word. As role models for a new generation, both women demonstrated that powerful achievements and celebration of fashion can go hand in hand, but the latter looks ever so much better in the service of the former, as opposed to as an end in itself.

從金球獎(jiǎng)上的拉夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren)紅色披肩禮服到奧斯卡獎(jiǎng)上的“內(nèi)畢羅藍(lán)”普拉達(dá)(Prada)禮服，尼永奧一直在向飽和色與簡單線條的醒目效果致意。新任克魯尼夫人是一位人權(quán)律師，她通過在威尼斯的三天婚禮展現(xiàn)聰明美麗的涵義。作為新一代楷模，這兩位女士展示出，巨大的成就和對(duì)時(shí)尚的頌揚(yáng)可以并駕齊驅(qū)，不過后者在為前者服務(wù)時(shí)，比單獨(dú)彰顯自己要好很多。

By contrast, the ubiquitous presence of Rihanna at pretty much every single fashion event in various flesh-baring outfits started to be more yawn-inducing than exciting (proof positive that, as Graydon Carter said, “The greatest asset in the world is unavailability”). Of course, she did finish the year by being named the creative director of Puma women’s collections, which in theory could mean that 2015 will herald a more selective Rihanna-for-Puma parade, but it remains to be seen.

相比之下，蕾哈娜簡直無處不在，身穿暴露身體不同部位的套裝出現(xiàn)在幾乎每一場時(shí)尚活動(dòng)中，漸漸讓人覺得乏味，而非興奮(毋庸置疑，就像格雷頓·卡特 [Graydon Carter]說的，“世界上最偉大的資產(chǎn)是難以得到”)。當(dāng)然，她的確在年終被任命為彪馬(Puma)女裝的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)，這在理論上意味著2015年我們將看到更多蕾哈娜為彪馬設(shè)計(jì)的服裝，不過尚待分曉。

Meanwhile, Jennifer Lawrence’s deal with Christian Dior, which requires her to wear the label at most red carpet events, took much of the joy out of watching her dress and suggested that, as a concept, the “brand ambassador” relationship, while it may work for the brand, can backfire for the ambassador. Ms. Lawrence clearly knows her own mind in her work. Wouldn’t it be nice to see her put it to work for her wardrobe?

與此同時(shí)，詹妮弗·勞倫斯(Jennifer Lawrence)與克里斯汀·迪奧的協(xié)議要求她身穿該品牌禮服出席大多數(shù)紅毯活動(dòng)，這奪去了觀看她著裝的大部分樂趣。“品牌大使”這種關(guān)系可能有利于品牌，但不利于大使。勞倫斯在工作中顯然很有自己的想法。如果她能在著裝上也展現(xiàn)自己的想法難道不好嗎?