這里的泰國(guó)牛肉面湯已經(jīng)煮了45年了

這里的泰國(guó)牛肉面湯已經(jīng)煮了45年了

There's soup that's been simmering for 45 years.

湯是燉了45年的湯。

In Bangkok, customers can't get enough of the latter at Wattana Panich, a noodle soup joint in the trendy Ekkamai neighborhood, where third-generation owner Nattapong Kaweeantawong wants to clear up what he thinks is a popular misconception about his beef soup.

在曼谷時(shí)髦的伊卡邁街區(qū)，有一家名為瓦塔納帕尼奇的面館。在那里，第三代老板納塔蓬卡文塔旺希望消除人們對(duì)他的牛肉湯的普遍誤解。

"Lots of people think we never clean the pot," he says. "But we clean it every evening. We remove the soup from the pot, then keep a little bit simmering overnight."

他說(shuō):“很多人認(rèn)為我們從來(lái)不洗鍋。”“但是我們每天晚上都清洗。我們把湯從鍋里倒出來(lái)，然后燉一晚上。”

It's that little bit, he says, that forms the stock of the next day's soup. So yes, at least a taste of what you put in your mouth is 45 years old and counting.

他說(shuō)，這一點(diǎn)湯就構(gòu)成了第二天湯的原料。所以，是的，至少你吃的東西已經(jīng)有45年的歷史了。

"Since my grandfather's time, we've never really had a set recipe about how much of each ingredient to put in," Nattapong says. "So, the person making the soup will constantly have to taste it to know what needs to be added."

納塔蓬說(shuō):“從我祖父的時(shí)代開(kāi)始，我們就從來(lái)沒(méi)有一個(gè)固定的食譜，告訴我們每種配料該放多少。”“所以，做湯的人必須不斷地品嘗，才能知道需要添加什么。”

He says some of the ingredients include nearly a dozen Chinese herbs plus garlic, cinnamon, black pepper and cilantro root. And then there's the beef. He goes through about 150 pounds a day.

他說(shuō)，其中一些成分包括近12種中草藥、大蒜、肉桂、黑胡椒和香菜根。然后是牛肉。他每天消耗（的成本）大約150磅。

"To make it tender, we cook the beef for around seven hours. We put the whole thing into the pot so it absorbs all the flavors," he explains, "Then after three hours we take it out and cut it into smaller pieces, then cook it for another four hours."

“為了讓牛肉變軟，我們會(huì)把它煮7個(gè)小時(shí)左右。我們把所有的東西都放進(jìn)鍋里，讓它吸收所有的味道，”他解釋說(shuō)，“三個(gè)小時(shí)后，我們把它拿出來(lái)，切成小塊，然后再煮四個(gè)小時(shí)。”

The pot at Wattana Panich sits near the sidewalk on a busy street, the simple restaurant occupying two floors of a shophouse that the family bought decades ago. And a good thing too, Nattapong says. They couldn't afford to even rent here now.

瓦塔納帕尼奇面館坐落在一條繁忙街道的人行道旁，這家簡(jiǎn)單的面館占了他們幾十年前買下的一家店鋪的兩層。納塔蓬說(shuō)，這也是一件好事。現(xiàn)在他們連房租都付不起。

"When I first started in the business, my dad would make the soup and the broth and I would taste it, to understand what the perfect taste is," Nattapong says. "Nowadays, I can just look at it and know what's missing."

納塔蓬說(shuō):“我剛開(kāi)始做這個(gè)生意的時(shí)候，我爸爸會(huì)做湯和肉湯，我會(huì)品嘗，以知道是最完美的味道是什么。”“現(xiàn)在，我只要看一眼就知道少了什么。”

The result is an aromatic blend of spices, herbs and beef. One that's been drawing repeat business since his grandfather started making the soup at the original shop down by the Praya river more than 60 years ago.

牛肉湯是香料的芳香、藥草和牛肉混合。自從60多年前他的祖父開(kāi)始在湄南河河邊的老店做湯以來(lái)，這家店就一直吸引著回頭客。

"My earliest memory coming here I was five or six, maybe," says 24-year old Indi Rakamnuaykit. He says his father has been coming here since he was 11 years old.

24歲的因迪拉卡門凱特說(shuō):“我最早的記憶來(lái)這里的時(shí)候大概是五六歲。”他說(shuō)他父親從他11歲起就一直來(lái)這里。

"The prices were super good, according to my dad, he'd say coming here with a large family would never break the bank. You would always come here because you expected top quality food and homey service, he says. "It's just nice."

“據(jù)我爸爸說(shuō)，那里的價(jià)格非常實(shí)惠，他說(shuō)帶著一大家子人來(lái)這里是絕對(duì)不會(huì)傾家蕩產(chǎn)的。”你總是會(huì)來(lái)這里，因?yàn)槟闫诖哔|(zhì)量的食物和親切的服務(wù)，他說(shuō)。“這感覺(jué)很好。”

Though there are other items on the menu, he gets the beef noodle soup every time.

雖然菜單上還有其他菜品，但他每次都點(diǎn)牛肉面湯。

"You really taste the marrow and the fat," he says. "That's what makes the soup so good, the quality has never changed. And I've been coming here for a very long time."

“你真的品嘗到了骨髓和脂肪，”他說(shuō)。“這就是湯這么好吃的原因，質(zhì)量從來(lái)沒(méi)有變過(guò)。我來(lái)這里已經(jīng)很久了。”

Ussanee is a first time customer. She's Thai, and runs a company that does urban food walk tours around Bangkok. She rates the soup a 10.

尤薩尼是第一個(gè)客戶。她是泰國(guó)人，經(jīng)營(yíng)著一家公司，在曼谷市內(nèi)進(jìn)行美食徒步旅行。她給這道湯打了10分。

"For Asian people, we're quite familiar with fermented thing and something you age for very long, so this not bother me at all," she says. She thinks it helps give the soup its distinctive flavor.

她說(shuō):“對(duì)于亞洲人來(lái)說(shuō)，我們很熟悉發(fā)酵的東西，也很熟悉陳年很久的東西，所以我一點(diǎn)也不介意。”她認(rèn)為這有助于賦予湯獨(dú)特的味道。