2019年,中國(guó)將達(dá)到一個(gè)里程碑,這會(huì)證明全球經(jīng)濟(jì)力量再平衡如何改變產(chǎn)業(yè)。
“The year ahead is one that will go down in history,” write consultancy McKinsey & Company and media outlet The Business of Fashion in their joint report on the state of fashion in 2019. “Greater China will for the first time in centuries overtake the US as the world’s largest fashion market.”
美國(guó)麥肯錫咨詢公司和英國(guó)時(shí)裝商業(yè)評(píng)論公司在共同發(fā)布的2019年時(shí)尚業(yè)態(tài)報(bào)告中寫道:“未來(lái)一年將被載入史冊(cè)。大中華區(qū)數(shù)百年來(lái)將首次超過(guò)美國(guó),成為全球最大的時(shí)尚市場(chǎng)。”
The wealth of China’s nearly 1.4 billion people is rapidly multiplying, creating legions of new consumers with disposable income to spend on things such as sports, entertainment, and of course, clothes and shoes. It’s shaping the way the fashion industry operates. Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna, for example, now looks to China, not the US, as the place where it tests new products before deciding whether to roll them out around the world.
中國(guó)近14億人口的財(cái)富正在迅速增長(zhǎng),從而產(chǎn)生了一個(gè)有能力在體育、娛樂(lè)當(dāng)然還有服裝和鞋類上消費(fèi)的人數(shù)眾多的新消費(fèi)者群體。這正在塑造時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的運(yùn)作方式。例如,意大利品牌杰尼亞現(xiàn)在把中國(guó)而不是美國(guó)作為測(cè)試新產(chǎn)品的地點(diǎn),然后再?zèng)Q定是否在全球推廣這些產(chǎn)品。
multiply ['m?lt?pla?] vi.乘;繁殖;增加
Many luxury labels already depend heavily on Chinese customers, who have for some time been the world’s biggest buyers of luxury goods, counting the purchases they make both inside their home country and while traveling. Thanks to the ascendance of young shoppers, as well as government policies meant to encourage shopping inside the country, much of that spending is moving back inside Greater China’s borders.
很多奢侈品品牌已嚴(yán)重依賴中國(guó)消費(fèi)者,一段時(shí)間以來(lái),中國(guó)人一直是全世界最大的奢侈品購(gòu)買群體,這包括他們?cè)趪?guó)內(nèi)和出國(guó)旅行時(shí)的消費(fèi)。由于年輕消費(fèi)者占據(jù)主流,以及政府出臺(tái)鼓勵(lì)境內(nèi)購(gòu)物的政策,奢侈品消費(fèi)支出中的很大一部分正在回流大中華區(qū)。
Luxury is only part of the consumption picture in China, of course, particularly since most of the population still can’t afford luxury prices. Sports brands such as Nike and Adidas are investing heavily in their Chinese businesses, as the growing middle class has more leisure time and money to devote to exercise and fitness. And then there’s the giant, booming market for inexpensive clothes. Much of that demand is satisfied not by Western brands, but by local ones such as Heilan Home, Peacebird, and La Chapelle.
當(dāng)然,奢侈品只是中國(guó)消費(fèi)版圖的一部分,其價(jià)格對(duì)多數(shù)中國(guó)人來(lái)說(shuō)還是過(guò)于高昂。由于不斷壯大的中產(chǎn)階級(jí)有更多的閑暇時(shí)間和金錢來(lái)鍛煉健身,耐克和阿迪達(dá)斯等運(yùn)動(dòng)品牌正在大力投資中國(guó)的業(yè)務(wù)。此外,平價(jià)服裝的市場(chǎng)非常巨大,正在蓬勃發(fā)展。中國(guó)平價(jià)服裝市場(chǎng)的大部分需求不是靠西方品牌滿足的,而是海瀾之家、太平鳥和拉夏貝爾等本土品牌。
Though China has long had a taste for international labels, more Chinese are now embracing homegrown brands. Achim Berg, who leads McKinsey’s global apparel, fashion, and luxury practice, said during a press briefing about the report, that international brands established in the market look to be cooling off some. “We also see that there are local brands now coming up and becoming relevant,” he said. “I think this desire to only buy international brands in the mid-markets is also waning a bit.”
雖然中國(guó)人一直青睞國(guó)際品牌,但現(xiàn)在越來(lái)越多的中國(guó)人開始接受本土品牌。麥肯錫全球服裝、時(shí)尚和奢侈品業(yè)務(wù)負(fù)責(zé)人阿奇姆·伯格在出席一次新聞發(fā)布會(huì)時(shí)談到了這份報(bào)告。他說(shuō),已經(jīng)在市場(chǎng)站穩(wěn)腳跟的國(guó)際大品牌似乎正遭到冷落。他說(shuō):“我們還看到,一些本土品牌開始嶄露頭角,變得舉足輕重。我認(rèn)為,在中端市場(chǎng),只想買國(guó)際品牌的意愿也在減弱。”
press briefing: 新聞發(fā)布會(huì);記者招待會(huì)
Simon Lock, CEO of Ordre.com, commented during the briefing that he’s seen many of the Chinese students who go abroad to study fashion more often returning home to start their lines, rather than staying in New York or London as they typically had in the past. “They are now all rushing back to Shanghai and Beijing and establishing really good beachhead businesses in China before they start their international expansion,” he said.
Order.com網(wǎng)站的首席執(zhí)行官西蒙·洛克在新聞發(fā)布會(huì)上表示,現(xiàn)在,很多在國(guó)外學(xué)習(xí)時(shí)裝的中國(guó)學(xué)生選擇回國(guó)發(fā)展,而不是像過(guò)去一樣待在美國(guó)紐約或英國(guó)倫敦。“如今,他們都回到了上海和北京,在開始國(guó)際擴(kuò)張之前,先在中國(guó)建立良好的灘頭業(yè)務(wù)。”
As all this continues, so does China’s growth. Kevin Sneader, McKinsey’s global managing partner, pointed out that, under a moderate scenario of growth, China will add a number of consumers and spending power roughly equivalent to Germany’s current economy by 2025.
這種趨勢(shì)在上升,中國(guó)的增長(zhǎng)也是如此。麥肯錫全球管理合伙人凱文·斯尼德爾指出,在穩(wěn)健的增長(zhǎng)態(tài)勢(shì)下,中國(guó)的消費(fèi)者數(shù)量將大大增加,到2025年,其購(gòu)買力將大致相當(dāng)于德國(guó)目前的經(jīng)濟(jì)水平。