在中國東北，5千日本人的墓園牽動歷史的新仇舊恨

FANGZHENG, China — At the end of a narrow road in Fangzheng, a remote town in northeastern China, next to a hushed forest of birch and pine trees, stands the locked iron gate of the Sino-Japanese Friendship Garden.

中國方正縣——在中國東北偏遠縣城方正的一條狹窄道路的盡頭，一片白樺和松樹林旁，中日友好園林的鐵門鎖閉著。

But inside is no garden. Instead, there are graves of some 5,000 Japanese who died in what was then known as Manchuria when the Japanese Empire collapsed in defeat at the end of World War II, and victorious Soviet armies swept in.

里面并不是園林，而是約五千名日本人的墓地。二戰(zhàn)結束時，日本帝國戰(zhàn)敗崩潰，獲勝的蘇聯(lián)軍隊涌入當時的滿洲國，這些人就是那時候死去的。

The Friendship Garden was built as a memorial to this tragic period of history, and became a symbol of the unusually close ties that have bound Fangzheng to Japan since the war.

中日友好園林是為了紀念那段歷史悲劇而修建的，象征著戰(zhàn)后方正與日本不同尋常的緊密關系。

The town was once so proud of its connections to Japan that it erected Japanese-language shop signs, and sent a fifth of its population to live and work in Japan. But when rivalries between Japan and China flared, people in Fangzheng found themselves branded as traitors.

這個縣城曾以自己與日本的這種聯(lián)系為傲，它豎起了日語的商店招牌，有五分之一的人口在日本生活和工作。但是，當日本和中國的敵對情緒加劇時，方正人發(fā)現(xiàn)自己被打上了叛徒的標簽。

In 2011, the garden was closed after angry anti-Japanese nationalists splashed it with red paint.

2011年被憤怒的反日民族主義者潑灑紅色油漆后，這座園林被關閉。

Now, though, the town’s people are watching with wary hope as ties seem to have warmed again in recent months between China and Japan, driven together by a defusing of tensions on the Korean Peninsula, and the shared threat of a trade war with the United States.

不過現(xiàn)在，這里的人在懷著謹慎的希望觀察事態(tài)發(fā)展。近幾個月來，中日關系似乎再次升溫，主要是因為朝鮮半島的緊張局勢在緩和，而且兩國都面臨著與美國發(fā)生貿(mào)易戰(zhàn)的威脅。

These days the garden is guarded by an older couple who live in a small house next to the gate, and stop the rare visitor from entering without permission from the town government.

現(xiàn)在，這座園林由一對老年夫婦看守，他們住在大門旁邊的一個小房子里，阻止偶然出現(xiàn)訪客入內(nèi)。要入園參觀需得到縣政府的批準。

The town, like its cemetery, has found itself caught up in the complex and tortured history that still divides Asia’s two economic giants.

這個縣城和公墓一樣，被困在復雜而痛苦的歷史之中。直到現(xiàn)在，這兩個亞洲經(jīng)濟巨人的關系依然因為這段歷史而有著深深的裂痕。

Fangzheng’s bonds to Japan go back to the 1930s, when this region of China, now known as Heilongjiang Province, was part of a Japanese-created puppet state in Manchuria. In its efforts to control this de facto colony, Japan sent over some 380,000 settlers, mostly impoverished farmers.

方正與日本的聯(lián)系可以追溯到上世紀30年代，當時中國的這個地區(qū)——現(xiàn)在被稱為黑龍江省——受日本建立的滿洲傀儡政府管轄。為了控制這個事實上的殖民地，日本派來了約38萬移民，其中大多是貧窮的農(nóng)民。

When the Japanese surrendered in 1945, about 10,000 of these colonists were trapped in Fangzheng by the advancing Soviets. Cut off from escape, thousands died from cold, sickness and starvation, as well as group suicide.

1945年日本投降時，約有一萬名殖民者被不斷前進的蘇聯(lián)軍隊圍困在方正。成千上萬人無路可逃，死于寒冷、疾病和饑餓，以及集體自殺。

Thousands of other Japanese stayed, many of them children who were given to Chinese families by desperate parents, or abandoned as orphans.

還有成千上萬日本人留了下來，其中很多是被絕望的父母送給中國家庭的孩子，或者被遺棄的孤兒。

Their story was forgotten until 1963, when Zhou Enlai, China’s No. 2 leader under Mao, ordered the town to excavate the Japanese bones from the hills and forests around the town for cremation and burial. The ashes were interred at what later became the Friendship Garden.

他們的故事被遺忘了，直到1963年毛澤東時代的中國二號領導人周恩來下令，將日本人的遺骨從周圍的小山和樹林中挖出來火化和埋葬。骨灰被葬在這個后來被稱為中日友好園林的地方。

When Japan became prosperous in the 1980s, it began repatriating its war orphans from northeastern China. They, in turn, helped their Chinese relatives and friends to move to Japan for work, study and marriage.

在80年代日本經(jīng)濟繁榮起來后，日本人開始從中國東北地區(qū)接回戰(zhàn)爭遺孤。他們反過來幫助在中國的親戚和朋友去日本工作、求學和結婚。

According to the Fangzheng government website, 38,000 people from the town — one fifth of Fangzheng’s population — now live overseas, overwhelmingly in Japan.

據(jù)方正縣政府網(wǎng)站稱，該縣3.8萬人——占全縣人口的五分之一——生活在海外，絕大部分在日本。

In 1995, a repatriated former orphan built a monument in the cemetery to the Chinese parents who adopted Japanese children. Many of the former orphans, some of whom kept their Chinese names while others took Japanese names on returning, are now among the most frequent visitors to the Friendship Garden.

1995年，一名被接回日本的遺孤在公墓里為收養(yǎng)日本兒童的中國父母修建了一座紀念碑。這些遺孤中一些人沿用了自己的中文名字，還有一些人一回去就起了日語名字?，F(xiàn)在常來友好園林的有很多屬于這個群體。

“The Friendship Garden is a meaningful place,” said Gao Fengqin, 74, a former Japanese war orphan now living in Harbin, about 120 miles from Fangzheng. “The visits are not paid to the Japanese soldiers, but the Chinese parents who brought us up.”

“友好園林是個有意義的地方，”曾是戰(zhàn)爭遺孤的郜鳳琴說。她今年74歲，住在離方正縣大約120英里(約合200公里)的哈爾濱。“我們?nèi)@林不是為了日本軍人，是為了紀念撫養(yǎng)我們成人的中國父母。”

The bonds are apparent in the billboards around town that advertise “consultancy centers” to help with everything from applying for visas to finding work and marriage partners in Japan.

在縣里隨處可見的廣告牌中，這種紐帶顯而易見。這些廣告牌上宣傳的“咨詢中心”可以提供方方面面的幫助，從申請簽證到在日本找工作和結婚對象。

Nearby, a high-end gated community is called the Overseas Chinese Village Homeland, a reference to the 48,000 residents and their families who have returned to this once poor rice-farming town after living in Japan.

附近是一個名為華僑村家園的高端封閉式小區(qū)。這里的華僑指的是曾在日本生活過一段時間的4.8萬居民及其家人，他們后來又回到這個曾經(jīng)頗為貧窮的水稻種植縣生活。

“It’s glorious if someone’s daughter married to Japan,” said Chen Zhongbo, 45, a taxi driver in Fangzheng. “Japan is still considered richer, much more developed.”

“誰們家女兒要是嫁到了日本，是挺光榮的事兒，”方正縣45歲的出租車司機陳中波說。“大家還是覺得日本有錢、發(fā)達。”

In 2006, the town went a step further, declaring itself a “Hometown for Chinese Living in Japan” in order to attract more investment from there. As part of the rebranding, all shops in Fangzheng were required to have both the Chinese and Japanese languages on signs.

2006年，方正縣更進一步，為了從日本吸引更多投資而宣稱自己是“龍江第一僑鄉(xiāng)”。作為形象重塑工程的一部分，方正縣所有店鋪的牌匾都被要求做成中日雙語。

The troubles began not long after that, as economic and political competition between Tokyo and Beijing reignited old disputes over contested islands and Japanese efforts to whitewash wartime atrocities.

不久后，麻煩開始了，在東京和北京之間的經(jīng)濟和政治競爭中，圍繞有爭議島嶼和日本粉飾戰(zhàn)爭暴行的行為而起的舊有爭端被重新點燃。

Every time a Japanese politician visited the Yasukuni war shrine in Tokyo, or denied the 1937 Nanjing Massacre, when rampaging Japanese troops slaughtered civilians in that city, hatred welled up online.

每當日本政治人物參拜東京的靖國神社，或否認1937年日軍在南京屠殺平民的暴行，網(wǎng)上就會充斥著仇恨情緒。

This anger increasingly spilled over onto Fangzheng.

這種憤怒日漸涌入方正。

In 2011, Fangzheng provoked online outrage when it spent more than 700,000 yuan, or about $110,000, to build a memorial wall in the cemetery inscribed with the names of Japanese settlers who were believed to be buried there. Later that year, five young men climbed into the cemetery and splashed red paint on the wall.

2011年，方正縣花70多萬元在公墓里建了一道紀念碑墻，上面刻著據(jù)信被葬在那里的日本移民的名字。此事激起了網(wǎng)民的憤怒。同年晚些時候，五名年輕男子翻墻進入公墓，將紅色的油漆潑在了碑墻上。

The town government knocked it down during the night and buried the pieces in the graveyard.

縣政府連夜拆除了碑墻，并將殘垣斷壁埋在了墓地里。

That did not end the criticism. Fangzheng came to be mocked as the “hometown of traitors.” At the entrance to an underground shopping center, a sign appeared saying “Japanese and dogs not allowed,” a reference to past humiliations of Chinese people by imperialist powers.

此舉并沒有止住批評的聲音。方正被嘲諷為“漢奸縣”。在一個地下購物中心的入口處，一個牌子上赫然寫著“日本人與狗不得入內(nèi)”。這句話是在指涉昔日帝國列強對中國民眾的羞辱。

Almost all the Japanese-language signs in the streets have since disappeared, and the town has removed the name of the cemetery from road signs.

自那以后，街頭幾乎所有日語牌匾都消失不見了，方正縣還去掉了路牌上的公墓名稱。

“Without the business related to Japan, Fangzheng is nothing,” said Wang Dongjun, the owner of Huarui Language School, which teaches Japanese. “Fangzheng people are well-off. This is a miracle given that there aren’t many industries here. It’s obvious the wealth comes from Japan.”

“如果沒有和日本的關系，方正什么都不是，”教日語的華銳語言學校所有人王東軍說。“方正人很富，但是方正這里真的沒什么企業(yè)，算是個奇跡了。挺明顯的，方正人富和日本有關。”

“When there are sensitive days, like the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Day, I sometimes close my training school to avoid trouble,” he said. “敏感的日子，比如南京大屠殺紀念日，我有時候就把培訓學校關了，免得麻煩，”他說。

Bowing to the pressure, the town released a plan in January to turn the cemetery into a “patriotism education base” by “adding more content to show Chinese people’s spirit of persistence and resistance against Japan’s aggression.”

迫于壓力，方正縣1月公布了通過“增加抗日內(nèi)容，展示方正人民自強不息、頑強抗爭的精神”，把公墓變成愛國主義教育基地的計劃。

“It’s torture for people like me who love both countries,” said Sumie Ikeda, a former war orphan who is now director of Association of Friendship of Repatriates from China. “Fangzheng could be a place for reminding people of the history to avoid same mistakes, not a resource for generating hatred.”

“對我們這樣既愛中國又愛日本的人來說，看著這種紛爭就是一種受罪，”曾是戰(zhàn)爭遺孤、現(xiàn)在是中國歸國者日中友好之會理事長的池田澄江(Sumie Ikeda)說。“方正本該成為讓人們銘記歷史不犯同樣錯誤的地方，而不是一個讓人產(chǎn)生仇恨的地方。”

Others just wish that the disputes would leave them alone.

還有一些人只是希望爭端不要殃及他們。

“As common Chinese people, we don’t care about politics,” said Yang Shuang, a 25-year-old woman who worked for three years in a film factory near Tokyo. “When we have the connection, why don’t we use it?”

“我們普通中國人不關心政治，”25歲的楊爽說。她曾在東京附近的一家膠卷廠工作過三年。“我們有這層關系為什么不用?”