設(shè)計(jì)師創(chuàng)造了新一代的天然面料

設(shè)計(jì)師創(chuàng)造了新一代的天然面料

Ultramarathon runner Steve Tidball remembers the extreme events that ignited his interest in sourcing simple, natural materials for clothing.

超級(jí)馬拉松選手斯蒂夫·蒂博爾記得那些激發(fā)了他對(duì)尋找簡(jiǎn)單、天然材料來制作衣服的興趣的極端事件。

"My brother and I used to race around the world. He was racing through the Amazon jungle, and it was a seven-day ultramarathon. (After the) race, everyone's clothes are covered in blood (and) ants," he said.

“我哥哥和我曾經(jīng)環(huán)游世界。他在亞馬遜叢林中奔跑，這是一場(chǎng)為期7天的超級(jí)馬拉松。他說:“比賽結(jié)束后，每個(gè)人的衣服上都沾滿了鮮血和螞蟻。”

"At the end, a whole bunch of the people burned all of their clothes in the jungle."

“最后，一群人在叢林里燒掉了他們所有的衣服。”

The fire released a huge cloud of smoke, thick with black carbon and noxious chemicals. "I remember he came back and said this is one of the most insane things he's ever seen," Tidball recalled.

大火釋放出巨大的煙霧，濃煙中含有大量的黑碳和有毒化學(xué)物質(zhì)。“我記得他回來后說，這是他見過的最瘋狂的事情之一，”蒂博爾回憶說。

Tidball's twin brother Nick then asked what seemed to be a simple question: "Couldn't we have just buried them?"

蒂博爾的雙胞胎兄弟尼克問了一個(gè)看起來很簡(jiǎn)單的問題:“我們就不能把他們埋了嗎?”

This question took the brothers on a ten-year search for a fabric that biodegrades safely and completely. It inspired them to create the clothing company Vollebak, which makes some of the world's most technologically-advanced fabrics, and uses cutting-edge materials like graphene (Two scientists who studied its characteristics won Nobel prizes for their work), alongside natural fibers.

為了解決這個(gè)問題，兄弟倆花了十年時(shí)間尋找一種安全、完全可生物降解的面料。這激發(fā)了他們創(chuàng)建服裝公司Vollebak的靈感。這家公司生產(chǎn)一些世界上技術(shù)最先進(jìn)的面料，使用石墨烯(兩位研究其特性的科學(xué)家因此獲得了諾貝爾獎(jiǎng))等尖端材料，以及天然纖維。

The Tidballs' decade-long search for a biodegradable T-shirt.

蒂博爾花了十年時(shí)間尋找一款可生物降解的T恤。

Man-made fabrics have spread pollution to the ends of the Earth, with microplastics turning up in oceans and Arctic sea ice, while chemicals from garment production like chlorine and arsenic have contaminated drinking water.

人造面料將污染擴(kuò)散到地球的各個(gè)角落，海洋和北極海冰中出現(xiàn)了塑料微粒，而服裝生產(chǎn)中的氯和砷等化學(xué)物質(zhì)污染了飲用水。

From 2000 to 2015, global clothes production doubled, according to a reportby the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. This rise was partly due to growing wealth and the popularity of "fast fashion," which encourages a quick turnover of styles to boost sales. Most unwanted clothes ended up burned or in a landfill -- the equivalent of one full garbage truck every second, the report said.

根據(jù)艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)的一份報(bào)告，從2000年到2015年，全球服裝產(chǎn)量翻了一番。這種增長(zhǎng)的部分原因是財(cái)富的增長(zhǎng)和“快時(shí)尚”的流行，這就鼓勵(lì)了款式的快速更換以促進(jìn)銷售。報(bào)告稱，大多數(shù)不需要的衣服最終都被燒掉或扔進(jìn)了垃圾填埋場(chǎng)——相當(dāng)于每秒一輛滿載垃圾的垃圾車。

The more clothes we produce with synthetic fabrics -- which now account for 60% of clothing worldwide, according to Greenpeace -- the more microfibers end up in laundry wastewater and the vast landfill sites where almost 70% of clothing and footwear in the US eventually end up.

我們用合成纖維生產(chǎn)的衣服越多——據(jù)綠色和平組織統(tǒng)計(jì)，合成纖維目前占全球服裝的60%——流入洗衣廢水和巨大的垃圾填埋場(chǎng)的超細(xì)纖維就越多，美國(guó)近70%的服裝和鞋類最終都會(huì)流入垃圾填埋場(chǎng)。

This opens the door for traditional, biodegradable materials like linen and wool, to return as eco-friendly materials of choice. But sustainable designers are looking to minimize the environmental impact in the production of such materials.

這就為亞麻和羊毛等可降解的傳統(tǒng)材料作為環(huán)保材料的選擇打開了大門。但是可持續(xù)發(fā)展的設(shè)計(jì)師正在尋求在生產(chǎn)這種材料時(shí)盡量減少對(duì)環(huán)境的影響。

They are innovating production processes and finished materials to create a new generation of natural fabrics.

他們正在創(chuàng)新生產(chǎn)工藝和成品材料，以創(chuàng)造新一代的天然面料。

Wool sweater

羊毛衫

Vollebak’s “plant and algae” T-shirt is soft, light and strong, and if you bury it in the ground, it will turn to compost within 12 weeks, the company claims.

Vollebak公司聲稱，他們的“植物和藻類”T恤柔軟、輕盈、結(jié)實(shí)，如果你把它埋在地下，它會(huì)在12周內(nèi)變成堆肥。

Wool's curly, hollow fibers naturally insulate. Vollebak spins it into a fine material to ensure it's lightweight and breathable. The hoodie is designed to be worn in four different ways to store heat or combat the cold.

羊毛的卷曲中空纖維具有天然的絕緣性。Vollebak服裝公司將其紡織成一種優(yōu)良的材料，以確保它的輕便和透氣。這種連帽衫有四種不同的穿著方式，可以儲(chǔ)存熱量或抵御寒冷。