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博物館全攻略:法國盧浮宮

所屬教程:英語漫讀

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2017年05月28日

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The Louvre, a former fortress and royal palace, is one of the world’s most awe-inspiring museums, a trove of history from the seventh century B.C. to the mid-19th century. Antiquities from the East and West vie for attention with masterpieces by Leonardo and Vermeer; wander aimlessly through its maze of galleries and you’re as likely to stumble into an imperial ballroom as a chamber containing a sphinx. It would take you about three full days to visit every room in this museum. (We know, because we did it.) But don't worry, we’ll help you make your trip unforgettable, but also manageable.

之前曾為要塞和皇家宮殿的盧浮宮,現(xiàn)在是世界上最讓人驚嘆的博物館之一,這里有著上至公元前七世紀(jì)、下至19世紀(jì)中期的歷史寶藏。達(dá)·芬奇和弗美爾的名作,與來自東西方的文物爭相吸引人們的目光;隨意地在迷宮般的展廳中閑逛,不是無意間走入了一座皇家宴會(huì)廳,就是邁入一個(gè)存放埃及獅身人面像的展廳。參觀完博物館內(nèi)的所有展廳,需要花費(fèi)整整三天時(shí)間(我們知道,因?yàn)槲覀冞@么做了)。但是不要擔(dān)心,我們會(huì)幫你把這段旅程變得既容易又難忘。

The Five Must-Sees

不可錯(cuò)過的五大看點(diǎn)

It’s wonderful, and easy, to just get lost in the Louvre, but you won’t want to miss these particularly spectacular rooms.

在盧浮宮是很容易迷路的,閑逛的感覺也不錯(cuò),但你不會(huì)想錯(cuò)過以下這些格外引人注目的展廳。

FRENCH HISTORY IN PICTURES

繪畫中的法國歷史

Denon Wing, First Floor | French Romanticism and Neoclassicism, Rooms 75 to 77

德農(nóng)館(Denon Wing),二層 | 法國浪漫主義與新古典主義,75-77展廳

Remember that the Louvre is, after all, a French museum, with collections selected by its monarchs. This Wing contains the the best examples of the country’s masterworks.

要知道,盧浮宮畢竟是一座法國博物館,其藏品是由法國歷代君主選擇的。這個(gè)展館保存就是法國藝術(shù)杰作中最具代表性的作品。

Why It’s Must See: French painting focuses on the epic sweep of the country’s historical turning points, like the massive canvas of Jacques-Louis David’s “The Coronation of Napoleon,” (1806-7) which controversially depicts Josephine’s coronation, Delacroix’s “Liberty Leading the People” (1830) representing the 1830 revolt against King Charles X, a timeless allegory of popular resistance.

必看理由:法國繪畫注重展示法國歷史轉(zhuǎn)折點(diǎn)中的史詩場面,比如雅克-路易·大衛(wèi)(Jacques-Louis David)1806年7月創(chuàng)作的巨幅油畫《拿破侖的加冕典禮》就以頗具爭議的方式描繪了約瑟芬的加冕;德拉克羅瓦1830年創(chuàng)作的《自由引導(dǎo)人民》則呈現(xiàn)了1830年民眾反抗國王查理十世的運(yùn)動(dòng),由此成為民眾抗?fàn)幍挠篮阆笳鳌?/p>

What to Look For: Don’t miss Géricault’s “The Raft of the Medusa,” which depicts a terrifying moment in French naval history, when a French frigate sank off the coast of Senegal in 1816, and only 10 people out of 150 survived after a two-week ordeal without food or water. The painting captures the precise moment when the survivors spy the boat that will save them on the horizon.

看點(diǎn):不要錯(cuò)過熱里科(Géricault)的《美杜莎之筏》(The Raft of the Medusa),這幅畫作描繪了法國航海史上一個(gè)令人恐懼的時(shí)刻,那是在1816年,一艘法國護(hù)衛(wèi)艦在塞內(nèi)加爾海岸沉沒,船上150人只有10人生還,他們?cè)跊]有食物和水的情況下熬了兩周。畫中描繪的恰好是幸存者看到遠(yuǎn)方前來營救他們的船只那一刻。

Nearby: When you enter the central hall that connects the two main chambers of the French Neoclassical and Romantic periods (where the gift shop is), don’t forget to look up. The ceiling of this Salle des Sept-Cheminées, with its skylight surrounded by stucco figurines by the sculptor Francisque-Joseph Duret, is absolutely lovely.

周邊:當(dāng)你進(jìn)入連接法國古典主義和浪漫主義(禮品店所在的地方)兩個(gè)主展廳的中央大廳時(shí),不要忘記抬頭看。這個(gè)七壁爐廳的天花板絕對(duì)值得一看,上面的天窗周圍環(huán)繞的灰泥小雕塑是由雕塑家弗朗西斯科·約瑟夫·迪雷(Francisque-Joseph Duret)創(chuàng)作的。

HELLENISTIC HEROINES

希臘化時(shí)期的女英雄

Sully Wing, Ground Floor │Rooms 16 and 17, and Daru Staircase

蘇利館(Sully Wing),一層 | 16和17號(hào)展廳,以及達(dá)呂階梯(Daru Staircase)

These 2,000-year-old beauties will help you understand how stone can come alive.

這兩位已有兩千歲的美人將有助于你了解石頭可以被雕刻得多么栩栩如生。

Why It’s Must See: Two of the museum’s great ladies, “Venus de Milo” and “Winged Victory of Samothrace,” are Hellenistic masterpieces. These mysterious goddesses are about as entrancing as the womanly form ever gets. “Venus de Milo” was discovered on the Greek island of Melos (Milo in Greek) and although her arms were never recovered, by her sensual forms and suggestive nudity, scholars presume that she is the goddess of love, Aphrodite.

必看理由:這座博物館最偉大的兩位女性《米洛的維納斯》(Venus de Milo)和《薩莫色雷斯的勝利女神》(Winged Victory of Samothrace)是希臘化時(shí)期的杰作。可以說,這兩位神秘的女神有著女性所能擁有的最迷人的身軀?!睹茁鍗u的維納斯》發(fā)現(xiàn)于希臘的米洛島,盡管她的兩支胳膊一直沒能找到,但學(xué)者們從性感的身軀和引人聯(lián)想的裸體判斷,她就是愛神阿佛洛狄忒(Aphrodite)。

What to Look For: In Room 17, a short walk from Aphrodite, you’ll find her equally seductive cousin, “Sleeping Hermaphroditos,” an Italian marble sculpture that presents the very essence of femininity when seen from one side, and the surprise of masculinity on the other. Turn around and head up the Daru staircase to the Denon Wing, and you’ll encounter “Winged Victory of Samothrace,” the headless great lady of the Louvre, her wings spread and her clothes tousled against her body by the wind.

看點(diǎn):在17號(hào)展廳內(nèi),離阿佛洛狄忒幾步之遙的地方,就可以看到與她同樣性感的《沉睡的赫爾馬佛洛狄忒斯》(Sleeping Hermaphroditos),那是一座意大利大理石雕塑,從一邊看顯出極度的女性氣質(zhì),另一旁則是令人驚訝的男性氣質(zhì)。掉頭沿達(dá)呂階梯走到德農(nóng)館,就能看到《薩莫色雷斯的勝利女神》,這位盧浮宮內(nèi)的偉大女神沒有頭,翅膀伸展著,衣服逆風(fēng)雜亂地貼在身上。

Nearby: Also on the ground floor, but in the Denon Wing, Room 4, find the Roman sculptural masterpieces “Dying Slave” by Michelangelo, with his top rolled up to share his impressive abs, and Antonio Canova’s ebulliently romantic “Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss.”

周邊:還是在一層,但是在德農(nóng)館的4號(hào)展廳,可以看到羅馬雕塑的代表作,即由米開朗琪羅創(chuàng)作的《垂死的奴隸》(Dying Slave)和安東尼奧·卡諾瓦(Antonio Canova)創(chuàng)作的《被丘比特之吻拯救的普緒喀》(Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss),前者的頭朝后仰著,展示著十分可觀的腹肌。

TREASURES OF THE ITALIAN RENAISSANCE

意大利文藝復(fù)興珍品

Denon Wing, First Floor | Italian Paintings, Rooms 1 to 8

德農(nóng)館,二層 | 意大利繪畫,1-8號(hào)展廳

The Denon Wing of the Louvre is home to some of the world’s most famous works of Western painting. If you have time for nothing else, spend at least an hour here.

盧浮宮的德農(nóng)館保存著一些世界上最著名的西方畫作。就算你沒時(shí)間看別的,至少也該在此逗留一個(gè)小時(shí)。

Why It’s Must See: You can begin in rooms 1 through 3 and see two stunning Botticelli frescoes, continue through the jaw-dropping Grande Galerie, filled with Italian painting and arrive at the central room that contains the “Mona Lisa.”

必看理由:你可以從1至3號(hào)展廳開始,欣賞波提切利的兩幅絕美壁畫,然后穿過令人嘆為觀止、滿是意大利繪畫的大畫廊(Grande Galerie),抵達(dá)居于中心位置、陳列著《蒙娜麗莎》的展廳。

What to Look For: Everyone will be taking selfies, clustered around Leonardo da Vinci’s famous portrait of Lisa Gherardini, better known as the Mona Lisa, but you’ll be richly rewarded if you turn your back on her and explore the surrounding rooms. As you enter the Grande Galerie (Room 5), look to the left, where you’ll find five more Leonardo paintings, and Raphael’s exquisite “Portrait of Baldassare Castiglione.” Behind the “Mona Lisa,” find four paintings by Titian, including the wonderful “The Pastoral Concert,” the inspiration for Édouard Manet’s later “The Luncheon on the Grass.”

看點(diǎn):每個(gè)人都會(huì)擠在萊昂納多·達(dá)·芬奇為麗莎·蓋拉爾迪尼(Lisa Gherardini)——人稱蒙娜麗莎——畫的那幅肖像周圍自拍,但你如果拋開她,轉(zhuǎn)而探索周遭的展廳,一定大有收獲。當(dāng)你進(jìn)入大畫廊(5號(hào)展廳)時(shí),向左看,會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)達(dá)·芬奇的另外五幅畫作以及拉斐爾精美的《巴爾達(dá)薩雷·卡斯蒂利奧內(nèi)畫像》(Baldassare Castiglione)。在《蒙娜麗莎》后邊,有提香的四幅作品,其中包括美妙的《田園合奏》,它是愛德華·馬奈后來創(chuàng)作《草地上的野餐》的靈感之源。

Nearby: From here you can directly enter the French paintings department.

周邊:從這里你可以直接進(jìn)入法國繪畫部。

TRAVEL IN NILE

尼羅河之旅

Sully Wing, Egyptian Galleries | Ground floor, Rooms 1 to 14

蘇利館,埃及館 | 一層,1至14號(hào)展廳

Thanks to I.M. Pei’s beautiful pyramid entryway to the Louvre, which opened in 1989, it’s impossible to forget that one of the beloved highlights of the museum is its massive Egyptian antiquities collection, made up of more than 66,000 artifacts, with almost 7,000 of them on display across 35 rooms in the Sully Wing.

得益于貝聿銘設(shè)計(jì)、于1989年開放的金字塔形美麗入口,到訪者不可能忘記:這家博物館最珍貴的館藏之一,就是由6.6萬件藝術(shù)品構(gòu)成的龐大埃及文物收藏,其中將近7000件都在蘇利館的35個(gè)展廳里展出。

Why It’s Must See: You’ll never see so many sarcophagi in one place anywhere else.

必看理由:在其他任何地方,你都不可能一次性見到這么多石棺。

What to Look For: Enter the Egyptian Wing through the lower downstairs level of the Pavillon de L’Horloge and you’ll first encounter the 12-ton Great Sphinx of Tanis, with a lion’s body and a human head, sculpted sometime between 2,600 and 1,900 B.C. Continue through the downstairs chambers, where you’ll see wonderful model ships (Room 3), a colossal statue of Rameses II (Room 12) and end up in the amazing sarcophagus room (Room 14) where you’ll find a large glass vitrine filled with upright mummy cases.

看點(diǎn):經(jīng)由鐘閣(Pavillon de l'Horloge)那矮矮的樓梯進(jìn)入埃及館,你首先會(huì)看到重達(dá)12噸、在公元前2600年至公元前1900年之間雕刻而成的《獅身人面像 》(Great Sphinx of Tanis)。接著穿過樓下的房間——在那些地方你會(huì)看到美妙的模型船(3號(hào)展廳),以及一件拉美西斯二世(Rameses II)的巨大雕像(12號(hào)展廳)——最終來到令人驚嘆的石棺房(14號(hào)展廳),發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)巨大的玻璃柜,那里滿是直立的人形棺。

Nearby: When you leave the museum, walk through the Tuileries Garden to Place de la Concorde, where you’ll find the Luxor Obelisk, a gift to King Charles X from Mehmet Ali Pasha of Egypt. It once stood at the entrance to the Luxor Temple.

周邊:離開博物館的時(shí)候,穿過杜樂麗花園抵達(dá)協(xié)和廣場,你會(huì)看到盧克索方尖碑,一件由埃及的穆罕默德·阿里帕夏(Mehmet Ali Pasha)送給國王查理十世的禮物。它曾佇立在盧克索神廟入口處。

REMBRANDT’S MOST SYMPATHETIC PORTRAIT

最令人動(dòng)容的倫勃朗肖像

Richelieu Wing, Second Floor | Northern European paintings, Rooms 30 to 39

黎塞留館(Richelieu Wing),三層 | 北歐繪畫,30至39號(hào)展廳

The Dutch Golden Age is dominated by two towering figures of art history: Rembrandt and Vermeer. Here you find key masterpieces by both artists, including Vermeer’s “The Astronomer” (1668) and “The Lacemaker” (1669-70), as well as four Rembrandt self-portraits and works by many other old masters.

主導(dǎo)荷蘭黃金時(shí)代的是藝術(shù)史上的兩個(gè)頂級(jí)人物:倫勃朗和弗美爾。在此你能看到這兩位藝術(shù)家至關(guān)重要的杰作,其中包括弗美爾的《天文學(xué)家》(1668)和倫勃朗的四幅自畫像,還能看到其他很多早期大師的作品。

Why It’s Must See: Rembrandt’s paintings capture the depths of the drama of the human soul, and his work “Bathsheba at Her Bath” (1654) is a prime example of this. Rembrandt specialized in portraits made on commission, but his favorite work was biblical scenes. In this painting, he combines the two genres in his most naturalist nude, for which his lover, Hendrickje Stoffels, served as a model. Bathsheba has just received a letter in which the king has summoned her to seduce her. If she goes, she will betray her husband. If she doesn’t, she will disobey the king.

必看理由:倫勃朗的繪畫捕捉到了人類靈魂深處的戲劇性,其作品《沐浴的拔士巴》(1654)便是很好的例證。倫勃朗專門接受委托為人繪制肖像,但他很喜歡描繪圣經(jīng)場景。在這幅作品中,他把兩者融入了自己筆下最具自然主義色彩的裸體中,充當(dāng)模特的是他的情人亨德里克耶·斯托菲爾斯(Hendrickje Stoffels)。畫中的拔士巴剛剛收到國王為了勾引她而召她覲見的信函,如果去了,她就要背叛自己的丈夫。如果不去,她就要違抗國王的旨意。

What to Look For: When you gaze upon “Bathsheba at Her Bath,” take some time to look at her face, which perfectly captures the terrible, and impossible, choice she must make.

看點(diǎn):當(dāng)你駐足欣賞《沐浴的拔士巴》時(shí),不妨花時(shí)間研究一下她臉上的表情,作者用它完美地詮釋出她必須做出一個(gè)多么糟糕、多么難以忍受的選擇。

Nearby: Find other Dutch and Flemish old masters, like Peter Paul Rubens, Frans Hals and Jan Steen, in surrounding rooms on the second floor of the Richelieu Wing.

周邊:在黎塞留館三層周遭的展廳里,還能找到彼得·保羅·魯本斯、佛蘭斯·哈爾斯、揚(yáng)·斯蒂恩等其他荷蘭和佛蘭芒早期大師的作品。

Off the Beaten Path

打破常規(guī)

Looking for hidden treasures? These four galleries contain historical gems in quieter spaces.

要尋覓隱藏的寶藏?以下四個(gè)展館在相對(duì)靜謐之處保存著歷史瑰寶。

Medieval Louvre │Pavillon de l’Horloge

中世紀(jì)盧浮宮│時(shí)鐘館(Pavillon de l’Horloge)

Once open only to select visitors, the underground chambers of the Louvre were recently renovated with widened walkways and exhibition spaces that allow the public to see the foundations of the original fortress. Named the Pavillon de l’Horloge (the Clock Pavilion), this section makes you feel as if you’re in the underground castle — in fact, you’re walking through what was once the watery moat.

盧浮宮的這些展廳一度只是有限開放的,最近經(jīng)過翻建后,通道和展覽空間得到拓寬,這里的原城堡地基由此可以向公眾開放。這個(gè)名為時(shí)鐘館的區(qū)域,會(huì)讓你有置身地下城堡之感——事實(shí)上,你正穿行其中的地方,原本是有水的護(hù)城河。

Room of Ingres Paintings, Sully Wing | Room 60

安格爾繪畫作品室,蘇利館│60號(hào)展廳

A side trip to the French galleries on the first floor is rewarding. You’ll find a room full of Neoclassical works by Jean-Auguste- Dominique Ingres, the 19th-century French painter who was fascinated by the female form. These include “The Valpinçon Bather” (1808) and “The Turkish Bath” (1862), evocative and sumptuous, and a great departure from the saccharine Romantic works in the hallways of the French Wing.

順道去一趟二層的法國館是值得的。你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)展廳里滿是癡迷于女性外表的19世紀(jì)法國畫家讓·奧古斯特·多米尼克·安格爾(Jean-Auguste Dominique Ingres)的新古典主義作品。其中包括《瓦平松的浴女》(The Valpinçon Bather,1808)和《土耳其浴》(The Turkish Bath,1962),瑰麗而又引人遐思,與法國館走廊中那些甜美的浪漫主義作品大相徑庭。

Early Northern European Masterpieces, Richelieu Wing | Second floor, Rooms 6 to 12

北歐早期名作,黎塞留館 | 三層,6至12號(hào)展廳

Hieronymus Bosch, an early Dutch painter, is known for his fantastic scenes of heaven and damnation, filled with bizarre little demons. Find one of his most famous works, “Ship of Fools” in this section. Nearby are other Flemish works of the late middle ages and early Renaissance, like a portrait of Erasmus by Hans Holbein the Younger and a rare self-portrait by Albrecht Dürer. (Be aware: These rooms are being renovated and will be closed until the end of 2017.)

荷蘭早期畫家耶羅尼米斯·波希(Hieronymus Bosch)以其筆下關(guān)于天堂和詛咒、滿是古怪小惡魔的奇幻場景聞名。在這里能找到他最著名的作品之一《愚人船》(Ship of Fools)。旁邊還有中世紀(jì)晚期和文藝復(fù)興早期的其他佛蘭芒作品,比如小漢斯·霍爾拜因(Hans Holbein the Younger)為伊拉斯謨畫的肖像,以及一幅稀有的阿爾布雷特·丟勒自畫像。(注意:這些展廳目前正在翻修,會(huì)一直關(guān)閉到2017年底。)

Chardin Still Lifes, Sully Wing | Second floor, Rooms 38 & 39

夏爾丹的靜物,蘇利館 | 三層,38和39號(hào)展廳

There’s a divine cluster of still-life paintings by Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin in Rooms 38 and 39. “The Ray” (1725-26), his strangely anthropomorphized image of a dead stingray, has long fascinated visitors, but an even more interesting collection is in a glass-covered wall of Room 39. The French Impressionists were known to visit these rooms to sketch, and it’s easy to see how they were influenced by the muted tones and loose brush strokes.

在38和39號(hào)展廳,陳列著讓·巴蒂斯特·西梅翁·夏爾丹(Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin)的一批以靜物為主題的佳作。在《鰩魚》(The Ray,1725-1726年)中,他對(duì)一條死鰩魚做了詭異的人格化描繪。這幅畫一直讓參觀者們頗為著迷,但在39號(hào)展廳覆有玻璃的墻壁上陳列著一個(gè)更有意思的作品系列。人們知道法國印象派畫家們?cè)鴣磉@兩個(gè)展廳畫速寫,很容易就能看出這柔和的色調(diào)和松弛的筆觸對(duì)他們有多大影響。

Amazing Spaces

絕妙空間

While admiring thousands of paintings and sculptures, don't forget to see the Louvre itself.

在贊嘆成千上萬件畫作和雕塑的同時(shí),別忘欣賞盧浮宮自身的美。

APOLLO GALLERY, DENON WING | FIRST FLOOR, ROOM 66

阿波羅畫廊(Apollo Gallery),德農(nóng)館|二層66號(hào)展廳

The high arches and frescoed walls of this single chamber are jaw-droppingly ornate, like nothing you will ever experience in ordinary life, and worth a prolonged gander. The room seems to be dripping with gold, worked into every doorknob and wall moulding, and holding up the glass tables and vitrines in the center of the gallery, which contain the royal crowns. The gallery was started as the Galerie des rois (Gallery of Kings) in 1661 and painted by Charles Le Brun, who left it incomplete when he went to work on his commissions at Versailles instead. It was completed by the French Romantic artist Eugène Delacroix in 1851.

這個(gè)宮室高高的拱頂和繪滿壁畫的墻壁華麗至極,令人瞠目結(jié)舌,日常生活中可見不到這樣的東西,值得久久駐足觀看。整個(gè)展廳似乎布滿黃金,門上的每個(gè)球形把手與每個(gè)墻磚造型都是金質(zhì)的。還有畫廊中央的玻璃桌和盛放皇冠的展柜,它們的腿也是黃金制成。這座畫廊于1661年開始興建,原名國王畫廊(Gallery of Kings),壁畫由夏爾·勒·布朗(Charles Le Brun)繪制,但他沒有畫完就去做凡爾賽宮的工作,最后由法國浪漫主義畫家歐仁·德拉克洛瓦(Eugène Delacroix)于1851年完成。

ISLAMIC GALLERIES, DENON WING | GROUND FLOOR AND LOWER LEVEL

伊斯蘭畫廊(Islamic Galleries),德農(nóng)館 |一層及地下層

One of the newest wings of the Louvre, built in 2012, this section is two underground floors with a golden, undulating roof known as the “veil,” which allows in filtered light and creates a restful, contemplative space that’s particularly lovely for exploring Islamic artifacts. Treasures here include a 17th-century dagger with a horsehead hilt from the Rothschild collection and a 14th-century hammered brass bowl, known as the “Baptistry of Saint Louis,” made by Muhammad ibn al-Zayn in Egypt.

這是盧浮宮的幾座新館之一,于2012年落成,占據(jù)了地下的兩層空間,起伏的金色屋頂被稱為“面紗”,過濾著照射下來的光線,營造出一個(gè)深沉寧靜的空間,特別適合探索伊斯蘭文物。這里收藏的珍品包括一把17世紀(jì)的匕首,帶有馬頭手柄,來自羅斯柴爾德(Rothschild)的藏品;還有一只來自14世紀(jì)的鍛造黃銅碗,名為“圣路易斯洗禮盆”(Baptistry of Saint Louis),由埃及的穆罕默德·伊本·阿里-扎伊(Muhammad ibn al-Zayn)制造。

NAPOLEON III APARTMENTS, RICHELIEU WING | FIRST FLOOR, ROOMS 82 TO 92

拿破侖三世套房(Napoleon III Apartments),黎塞留館(Richelieu Wing) |二層82至92展廳

The former chambers of Napoleon III span several rooms of the Richelieu Wing, built by architects Louis Visconti and Hector LeFeul in the 1850s. It’s still extraordinary to observe the high style of living to which this emperor was accustomed, especially in Room 87, the spectacular Grand Salon, with its red velvet chairs, frescoed ceiling and gilded mouldings, and the rococo state dining room, with its table that seats nearly 100 people.

拿破侖三世以前住的房間跨越了黎塞留館的幾個(gè)展廳,它由建筑師路易·維斯孔蒂(Louis Visconti)和埃克多爾·勒弗(Hector LeFeul)于1850年代建造。這個(gè)皇帝日常習(xí)慣的高端生活方式現(xiàn)在看來依然令人驚嘆,特別是87號(hào)展廳壯觀的大沙龍,里面有紅色天鵝絨椅子、繪著壁畫的天花板和鍍金墻線,以及洛可可風(fēng)格的國宴廳,里面的大桌能供將近100人用餐。

MARLY COURT, RICHELIEU WING | GROUND FLOOR AND LOWER LEVEL

馬利中庭(Marly Court),黎塞留館|一層及地下層

This extraordinary sculpture court filled with white marble and stone works used to be an outdoor courtyard between the Napoleonic Court and the Rue de Rivoli, but was covered with a glass roof in 1989 during the museum redesign by Mr. Pei (which also brought the glass pyramid to the Louvre). Now it is a very restful and light-filled space within the museum, where you can amble and look at some of the museum’s sculpture collection, or else just get a breath of air.

這個(gè)非凡的雕塑庭院內(nèi)滿是白色大理石雕與其他石雕,以前是拿破侖中庭(Napoleonic Court)和里沃利街之間的戶外庭院,但在1989年貝聿銘擴(kuò)建博物館的過程中被加上了玻璃屋頂(那次擴(kuò)建也為盧浮宮帶來了玻璃金字塔)。現(xiàn)在,這里是博物館內(nèi)部一處氣氛寧靜、光線充足的空間,你可以在這里漫步,觀賞一些博物館的雕塑藏品,抑或只是呼吸一點(diǎn)新鮮空氣。

SUMMER APARTMENTS OF ANNE OF AUSTRIA, DENON WING | GROUND FLOOR, ROOMS 22 TO 28

奧地利的安娜夏日套房(Summer Apartments of Anne of Austria),德農(nóng)館|一層22至28展廳

Look up when you enter the section of the Denon Wing that houses the Greek, Roman and Etruscan antiquities, because the exquisite gilded décor of these six rooms is all in the breathtaking ceilings. King Louis XIV had this part of the museum built for his mother’s summer apartments in 1655, commissioning the Italian Baroque painter Giovanni Francesco Romanelli to create the vividly colored paintings, set between the fantastically embellished stucco, by Michel Anguier and Pietro Sasso. The juxtaposition of the white sculptural works from antiquity works wonders against all the wild rococo ornamentation.

德農(nóng)館的這一部分是用來收藏希臘、羅馬和伊特魯里亞文物的,進(jìn)來時(shí)別忘了抬頭看,因?yàn)檫@六個(gè)房間里的精美鍍金裝飾都在令人驚嘆的天花板上。博物館的這個(gè)部分是路易十四國王于1655年為母親建造的,作為她的夏季套房,他委托意大利巴洛克畫家米凱隆·弗朗西斯科·羅馬內(nèi)利(Michelon Francesco Romanelli)創(chuàng)作了色彩鮮明的壁畫,它們位于米歇爾·安吉爾(Michel Anguier)和彼特羅·薩索(Pietro Sasso)悉心打造的精美灰泥裝飾之間。展廳內(nèi)一座座來自古代的白色雕塑仿佛在驚奇地打量著周圍極盡華麗的洛可可式裝潢。

Going With Kids?

帶孩子一起去?

There’s no need to leave the kids home to enjoy the Louvre.

要逛盧浮宮,不必把孩子留在家里。

Unlike many modern museums, the Louvre doesn’t have dedicated play areas or activity centers for children, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t welcome here. There’s plenty for them to see and to explore, and most of the museum offers experiences that will be memorable for a lifetime. Depending on the age of the child, plan your trip to last one to two hours. You don’t need to worry about the expense: Admission is free for visitors under 18.

與許多現(xiàn)代博物館不同,盧浮宮沒有專門的兒童游樂區(qū)或活動(dòng)中心,但這不意味著他們不受歡迎。這里有許多東西可供他們觀賞和探索,博物館中的大部分區(qū)域都可以提供終身難忘的經(jīng)歷。根據(jù)孩子的年齡,你可以把參觀時(shí)間設(shè)計(jì)為一兩個(gè)小時(shí)之內(nèi)。不必?fù)?dān)心費(fèi)用:18歲以下的游客可免費(fèi)入場。

Tip: Strollers and baby carriers are available free of charge at the visitor assistance area.

小貼士:參觀者幫助區(qū)免費(fèi)提供嬰兒車和嬰兒背帶。

MAKE YOUR TRIP INTO A GAME

讓參觀變成游戲

The museum’s audio guide includes a Nintendo game program in English designed to help children enjoy the Egyptian Wing, which is a lot of fun for visitors over 5. If you are traveling with younger children, encourage them to spot animals — which can be found everywhere, from the famous little blue hippo in the Egyptian ing to the dogs in “The Wedding Feast at Cana” (1563).

博物館的音頻向?qū)е邪ㄒ粋€(gè)英語的任天堂游戲程序,用來幫助孩子們享受埃及館,它對(duì)于5歲以上的游客來說是非常有趣的。如果是和和更小的孩子一起參觀,可以鼓勵(lì)他們尋找動(dòng)物——它們處處可見,從埃及館著名的藍(lán)色小河馬到油畫《迦拿的婚禮》(The Wedding Feast at Cana, 1563)中的狗。

HELP THEM FIND THE DETAILS

幫助他們找到細(xì)節(jié)

The foundations of the old castle in the new Pavillon de l’Horloge is a terrific space for kids to explore. Encourage them to look at the stones to find the markings left by the stonemasons who built the castle in medieval times — like hearts and crosses.

新的時(shí)鐘館(Pavillon de l'Horloge)里的老城堡地基是孩子們探索的絕佳空間。鼓勵(lì)他們觀察那些石頭,找到在中世紀(jì)建造城堡的石匠們留下的痕跡——比如心形和十字架。

GET OUTSIDE

到戶外去

End your museum visit with a trip to the Tuileries Garden, just outside, where kids can steer little multicolored sailing boats around the pond, jump on trampolines near the Terrasse des Feuillants or ride the carousel.

不妨以探訪就在外邊的杜樂麗花園結(jié)束你的盧浮宮之旅。孩子們可以在花園內(nèi)的水池里駕駛多彩的小帆船,在斐揚(yáng)平臺(tái)(Terrasse des Feuillants)附近的蹦床上跳躍,還可以騎旋轉(zhuǎn)木馬。

Tips for Visiting the Louvre

盧浮宮參觀小貼士

GETTING IN

進(jìn)館

The best times to go: Opening time, 9 a.m. every day except Tuesday (when the museum is closed). The museum is mobbed just after lunch, around 1 p.m. If you visit in the afternoon, wait until about 3 p.m. On Friday evenings, the museum stays open until 9:45 p.m. and makes a fun night out, and admission is free after 6 p.m. for anyone under 26 years old.

最佳進(jìn)館時(shí)間:每天上午9點(diǎn)這個(gè)開館時(shí)間,除了周二(閉館日)。午餐時(shí)間剛過,也就是下午1點(diǎn)左右,這座博物館會(huì)人滿為患。如果要在下午參觀,你可以等到3點(diǎn)左右。周五晚間,博物館會(huì)開至9點(diǎn)45分,不妨在這里度過一個(gè)有趣的夜晚,而且周五晚6點(diǎn)過后,任何年齡小于26歲的人都可以免票進(jìn)入。

Getting there: Take the Métro to the Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre stop on the No. 1 or No. 7 line.

如何抵達(dá):乘地鐵1號(hào)線或7號(hào)線到盧浮宮博物館站。

Avoid long lines: Purchase your tickets online and use the Passage Richelieu entrance. An escalator takes you directly into the entry hall.

避免排長隊(duì):在網(wǎng)上買好票,并使用黎塞留通道入口。一部電梯會(huì)把你直接帶到門廳處。

PLAN YOUR DAY

做好一天的規(guī)劃

There are useful, introductory guided tours in English every day at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. These “Welcome to the Louvre” tours will take you to the Louvre’s great ladies: “Mona Lisa,” “Winged Victory of Samothrace” and “Venus de Milo,” as well as to a selection of other masterpieces that can vary depending on the guide. Tickets can only be arranged once you’re at the museum and cost 12 euros, about $13, (or €9 if you are under 26, and €5 for job seekers, people on income support, and visitors with disabilities and their aides).

每天上午11點(diǎn)和下午2點(diǎn),會(huì)有說英語的導(dǎo)游帶隊(duì)參觀,其講解很有用處和指導(dǎo)性。這些“歡迎菜鳥游”會(huì)帶你去見盧浮宮的幾位女神——《蒙娜麗莎》、《薩莫色雷斯的勝利女神》(Winged Victory of Samothrace)和《米洛斯的維納斯》(Venus de Milo),還會(huì)帶你去參觀其他一系列精選出來的杰作,具體是哪些則因向?qū)У牟煌鳟?。只有人在館中,才能購買聽講解的票,票價(jià)為12歐元,約合13美元,(如果你的年紀(jì)小于26歲,票價(jià)為9歐元,針對(duì)失業(yè)者、領(lǐng)取低收入補(bǔ)貼者還有殘疾人及其照看者的票價(jià)為5歐元)。

We don’t particularly recommend the audio guide, which has rather dull information and can be frustrating to use, especially if you want to orient yourself or build your own walking tour through the museum. However, it does have a Nintendo feature that is fun for kids (see above). Try downloading the Louvre app (available on the App Store and Google Play); it works on Wi-Fi and can be used on a limited basis for free, but there is a charge if you want additional information (up to €4.99). Be sure not to download any unofficial Louvre app, which could contain inaccurate information, like incorrect locations for artworks.

我們不太建議你使用語音導(dǎo)覽,因?yàn)槔锩娴男畔⒈容^枯燥無味,用起來也很費(fèi)事,尤其是你在你想給自己定位,或自己設(shè)計(jì)參觀路線的情況下。不過,它的確有一種任天堂游戲功能,對(duì)小孩來說會(huì)比較有趣(詳見上文)??梢韵螺d盧浮宮的app(App Store和Google Play商店都有提供);它需要在有Wi-Fi的環(huán)境下使用,有些功能是免費(fèi)的,但如果你想要更多的信息,就需要付費(fèi)(最高4.99歐元)。一定不要下載任何非官方的盧浮宮軟件,里面可能會(huì)包含不準(zhǔn)確的信息,比如把藝術(shù)品所在的位置搞錯(cuò)。

The Wi-Fi works pretty well throughout the museum, except in the underground floors. There is no place to recharge your devices inside the museum, so bring a portable charger if you plan to stay awhile.

除了地下樓層,整個(gè)博物館內(nèi)的Wi-Fi信號(hào)都很通暢。館內(nèi)沒有給電子設(shè)備充電的地方,所以如果你準(zhǔn)備待的時(shí)間比較長,記得帶上便攜充電器。

You’ll find a lot of cafes throughout the museum in different departments, all of them offering simple sandwiches, paninis, drinks and treats. These can be enough to keep you going without needing to exit the galleries (which will cost you 20 minutes in any direction). We recommend the mini-quiches at Paul, the cafe in the central pavilion under the Pyramid.

你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)博物館內(nèi)有許多咖啡館,他們分布在各個(gè)部分,提供簡單的三明治、意式帕尼尼三明治、飲品和零食,足以解決你的飲食需求,這樣你就能一直逛下去,不用到博物館外去吃飯(不管從哪個(gè)方向出去,都要花費(fèi)20分鐘)。我們向你推薦保羅咖啡館的迷你乳蛋餅,位置就在玻璃金字塔下方的中間場館內(nèi)。

ON YOUR WAY OUT

出館后的建議

For a splurge, and an excellent one indeed, exit the museum by the Richelieu Wing escalator and dine at the Le Café Marly, with an elegant terrace overlooking the glass pyramid. Lunch for two will easily set you back €100. (The salade niçoise is one of the best in the world). Or you can just do as the Parisians do and drop in after your visit for one of their famous hot chocolates with whipped cream. (They’re nice for kids and adults alike).

奢侈一點(diǎn)的話——實(shí)際上是很棒的選擇——可以乘黎塞留館的自動(dòng)扶梯出博物館,在瑪莉咖啡館(Le Café Marly)用餐,那里有一座優(yōu)雅的露臺(tái),可以眺望盧浮宮的玻璃金字塔。兩人午餐,至少會(huì)花費(fèi)100歐元(那里的尼斯沙拉是世界最好吃的之一)。或者,你也可以像巴黎人一樣,在參觀完博物館之后順路去點(diǎn)一杯那里有名的鮮奶油熱巧克力(不管是對(duì)孩子還是成人來說,都很不錯(cuò))。
 


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