美不勝收的童話之都 - 丹麥哥本哈根

Are you too old for fairy tales? If you think so, Copenhagen is sure to change your mind.

你是否已經(jīng)老得不想聽(tīng)童話了?如果你是這么認(rèn)為的話，哥本哈根一定能夠改變你的想法。

See the city first from the water. In the harbor sits Denmark's best-known landmark: the Little Mermaid. Remember her? She left the world of the Sea People in search of a human soul in one of Hans Christian Andersen's beloved fantasies. From the harbor you can get a feel for the attractive "city of green spires." At twilight or in cloudy weather, the copper-covered spires of old castles and churches lend the city a dream-like atmosphere. You'll think you've stepped into a watercolor painting.

要看這座城市，先從水看起。丹麥最有名的標(biāo)志性建筑——小小美人魚(yú)就坐落在港口處。記得她嗎?在安徒生的一個(gè)童話里，她離開(kāi)了海底世界，想變成一個(gè)真正的人。安徒生的許多幻想故事都很受歡迎哩。從這個(gè)港口你可以領(lǐng)略到這座迷人的“綠色塔尖之城”的魅力。黎明時(shí)分或天氣陰霾的時(shí)候，舊堡壘和教堂的鍍銅塔尖給這個(gè)城市蒙上了夢(mèng)一般的氣氛。你會(huì)以為自己步入了一幅水彩畫(huà)中。

Copenhagen is a city on a human scale. You don't have to hurry to walk the city's center in less than an hour. Exploring it will take much longer. But that's easy. Copenhagen was the first city to declare a street for pedestrians only. The city has less traffic noise and pollution than any other European capital.

哥本哈根是一個(gè)很人性化的城市。你不需要在一小時(shí)內(nèi)匆匆地將市中心走完。考察這個(gè)城市要花上更長(zhǎng)的時(shí)間。但那也是件很輕松的事。哥本哈根是第一個(gè)劃出步行街的城市。比起歐洲其他國(guó)家的首都，這個(gè)城市的交通噪音和污染少了許多。

Stroll away from the harbor along the riverbanks, you'll see the modest Amalienborg Palace first. Completed in the mid-18th century, it still houses the royal family. The Danish Royal Guard is on duty. At noon, you'll watch the changing of the guard. The guards are not just for show, however. Danes will always remember their heroism on April 9, 1940. When the Nazis invaded Denmark, the guards aimed their guns and fired. Soldiers fell on both sides. The guards would all have been killed if the king hadn't ordered them to surrender.

自港口沿著河岸漫步，最先映入眼簾的是風(fēng)格樸實(shí)的阿瑪利安堡皇宮。阿瑪利安堡皇宮于18世紀(jì)中期完工，皇室家族至今居住于此。皇家衛(wèi)隊(duì)仍在這里執(zhí)行任務(wù)。中午可以觀賞衛(wèi)兵換崗的儀式。但是，這些衛(wèi)兵絕不僅僅是裝裝樣子而已。丹麥人永遠(yuǎn)記得他們?cè)?940年4月9日的英勇事跡。當(dāng)時(shí)納粹分子入侵丹麥，這些衛(wèi)兵舉槍瞄準(zhǔn)并且開(kāi)火。雙方都有士兵陣亡。如果國(guó)王不叫他們投降的話，這些衛(wèi)兵可能全都戰(zhàn)死沙場(chǎng)了。

Churches and castles are almost all that remain of the original city. Copenhagen became the capital of Denmark in 1445. During the late 16th century, trade grew, and so did the city. But fires in 1728 and 1795 destroyed the old wooden structures. Much of what we see today dates from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

教堂與古堡大概是古城遺留下來(lái)的惟一的東西。哥本哈根于1445年成為丹麥的首都。16世紀(jì)末，貿(mào)易發(fā)展帶動(dòng)了城市的發(fā)展。但是，城中的舊式木建筑在1728年和1795年的兩場(chǎng)大火中毀于一旦。今天我們所看到的大部分建筑都是在19世紀(jì)和20世紀(jì)初建造的。

See one of the spires up close - really close - at the 17th-century Church of Our Savior. Brave souls may climb the 150 stairs winding outside the spire to its top. If you're afraid of heights, or if it's a windy day, you can forget the climb. But then you'll miss the magnificent view.

仔細(xì)看其中一個(gè)塔尖——真正靠近地看——這座建于17世紀(jì)的“我們的救世主”教堂。勇敢的人可能會(huì)爬上那在尖塔外蜿蜒而上直通塔頂?shù)?50層階梯。如果你有恐高癥，或者當(dāng)天風(fēng)很大，那就免了吧。不過(guò)，你會(huì)因此錯(cuò)過(guò)那壯觀的景色。

Once the earth is under your feet again (you'll enjoy the feeling), cross the nearest bridge to Castle Island. The curious yet majestic-looking spire ahead tops the oldest stock exchange in Europe, built in 1619. Its spire is formed from the entwined tails of three dragons. They represent Denmark, Sweden and Norway.

當(dāng)你再次穩(wěn)穩(wěn)地踏在土地上(你會(huì)喜歡這種感覺(jué)的)，你可以通過(guò)最近的橋到城堡島。前方有個(gè)1619年建造的歐洲最古老的證券交易中心，上面的塔尖奇特而又宏偉。塔尖由三只龍尾纏繞而成，分別代表丹麥、瑞典和挪威。

Keep going, to the Christiansborg Palace. The town of Copenhagen began here. Stop and visit the medieval castle. Parliament and the Royal Reception Chambers are open, too. Then continue to Nyhavn, a narrow waterway dug by soldiers in 1673. You'll understand why Hans Christian Andersen made this charming waterway his home. A specially-built mirror outside his apartment window allowed him to peek unseen at the world outside.

繼續(xù)往前，走到基斯汀堡。哥本哈根源自此處。停下來(lái)游覽這個(gè)中世紀(jì)的古堡。議院和皇家接待室也同樣開(kāi)放，然后繼續(xù)往尼哈芬走去，它是1673年由士兵挖成的狹窄水道。你會(huì)明白為什么漢斯·克里斯安·安徒生把這個(gè)迷人的水道當(dāng)成自己的家。通過(guò)公寓窗外的一面特制的鏡子，他能夠看到外面的世界而又不被人發(fā)現(xiàn)。

Nyhavn is peaceful, an ideal place for lingering and people-watching. You'll usually see them dressed casually, though they are among Europe's rich people. Danes are taught not to stand out in a crowd. But they do know how to party, especially during holidays.

尼哈芬是個(gè)寧?kù)o的地方，它也是個(gè)逗留和觀看行人的理想處所。雖然他們是歐洲最有錢(qián)的人，但是你通常都會(huì)看到他們穿得很隨意。丹麥人所受的教育是在人群中不要顯得鶴立雞群。但是他們卻很喜愛(ài)聚會(huì)，特別是在假日的時(shí)候。

To see them having fun, and to have some fun yourself, cross Andersens Boulevard and enter Tivoli Gardens. You won't be alone. More than five million people a year come here. They come to dance, dine, take in outdoor and indoor concerts, see ballets and laugh at the comedy. One tip: Bring a lot of money. About 20 restaurants are among the city's most expensive. Even without money, you can still enjoy the proud old trees, the colored night lights and the beautiful gardens. You might feel as if you are in a fairy tale.

要看丹麥人嬉樂(lè)，要想自己找到樂(lè)趣，你可以走過(guò)安徒生大道，進(jìn)入提弗利花園，在這兒你是不會(huì)寂寞的。每年有超過(guò)500萬(wàn)的人來(lái)此旅游。他們來(lái)這里跳舞、就餐、欣賞戶(hù)外和室內(nèi)音樂(lè)會(huì)，看芭蕾舞表演，觀看喜劇開(kāi)懷大笑。給你一個(gè)建議：多帶錢(qián)。20家左右的餐廳是本城里最昂貴的。即使沒(méi)有錢(qián)，你仍可以欣賞那些傲人的老樹(shù)、五光十色的彩燈，以及美麗的花園。你可能會(huì)以為自己置身于童話故事當(dāng)中呢。