歐美時(shí)尚達(dá)人新潮流：買舊衣服穿

06 歐美時(shí)尚達(dá)人新潮流：買舊衣服穿

買舊衣服穿，在過去是大忌。有自尊心的時(shí)尚擁躉都不會坦承自己買過別人穿過的二手衣服。但如今早已今非昔比，現(xiàn)今追求的是八成新，只過了幾個(gè)時(shí)裝季的二手裝往往以很優(yōu)惠的價(jià)格就能淘到手。

狂熱的買家如今搖身一變成了精明的賣家，他們借助快速發(fā)展的代銷網(wǎng)站便捷處理自己的累贅東西。在過去，他們的處理辦法不是捐贈就是通過實(shí)體店轉(zhuǎn)賣，既麻煩又費(fèi)時(shí)。而規(guī)?？涨暗膃Bay在線拍賣市場曾是其唯一選擇。

The RealReal創(chuàng)始人兼CEO朱麗·溫賴特（Julie Wainwright）注意到了市場存在的巨大缺口。運(yùn)營五年來主要面對美國市場的The RealReal已成功售出250萬件物件。香奈兒、愛馬仕、普拉達(dá)、勞力士以及路易威登是最受歡迎的品牌。零售價(jià)的60-70%歸委托人所有。

“Second-hand used to have a stigma.Today it has none: worldwide last year $200bn dollars of personal luxury products went into the market,” says Wainwright.“There are multiple reasons — one is a generational shift, one is a green thing — when you buy something previously owned, you're recycling, it's a circular economy — the other is the internet and access to information.”

“買二手時(shí)裝在過去是件丟臉的事，如今則大不一樣了：去年全球個(gè)人奢侈品的銷售額高達(dá)2000億美元?！睖刭囂卣f，“買賣二手貨原因多種多樣——其中之一是出于更新?lián)Q代，第二個(gè)原因是為了環(huán)保：購買二手貨屬于回收利用，是循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)；另一大原因是因特網(wǎng)的廣泛應(yīng)用以及獲取信息的渠道異常便捷?！?/p>

美國市場由The RealReal主宰，而歐洲市場的主導(dǎo)者是法國電商Vestiaire Collective。據(jù)該電商的創(chuàng)始人之一范妮·莫藏（Fanny Moizant）透露：網(wǎng)店創(chuàng)建于2009年，起初只有朋友與其它網(wǎng)站提供的3000件二手奢侈品。如今，網(wǎng)站銷售的二手奢侈品超過了40萬件，2015年的利潤高達(dá)7800萬歐元。莫藏認(rèn)為2008年金融危機(jī)是二手奢侈品網(wǎng)店井噴式發(fā)展的“催化劑”：

“I saw the marketing phenomenon that was the fashion bloggers.In France they were called the Recessionistas, because they appeared at the height of the crisis and were finding a smart way of reselling their own pieces on blogs and making money, even though there was no real system.”

“我當(dāng)初看到各大時(shí)尚博主這類營銷現(xiàn)象。在法國，這些人被稱為‘不景氣時(shí)尚達(dá)人'，因?yàn)樗麄兂霈F(xiàn)在金融危機(jī)最嚴(yán)重的時(shí)候，找到了一種在博客兜售自己用過的奢侈品并且賺錢的妙招，盡管當(dāng)時(shí)并沒有實(shí)際銷售平臺?！?/p>

這些網(wǎng)店成功的秘訣緣于完全模仿奢侈品購買體驗(yàn)。

“We have a deep appreciation of the brands, the products, the quality and the craftsmanship,” says Wainwright.“Ebay was sad.The romance was broken.It lacked integrity.So our goal was to maintain the brands' integrity.”

“我們對各大品牌的內(nèi)涵、旗下產(chǎn)品、質(zhì)量以及做工了如指掌?！睖刭囂卣f，“Ebay是個(gè)傷心地，破壞了消費(fèi)者購置奢侈品的浪漫心情。Ebay沒有誠信。所以我們當(dāng)初設(shè)立的目標(biāo)就是維系各大時(shí)尚品牌的誠信?！?/p>

莫藏對此也深有同感：

“Before us, there was a second-hand market but it lacked this — we brought in two big pillars.The first was trust.The second was curation — the internet is so vast, so we do the job of selecting the best pieces.We have a team of stylists, who each day go through about 4,000 pieces and vet them digitally and pick the best.We also authenticate with a whole other team of experts.”

“在我們網(wǎng)店成立之前，曾有個(gè)二手奢侈品交易市場，但它缺少兩樣?xùn)|西，而這兩樣?xùn)|西后來成為我們的立身之本，其一是誠信，第二是產(chǎn)品管理——因特網(wǎng)功能強(qiáng)大，所以我們挑選最好的產(chǎn)品。我們有專門的設(shè)計(jì)師團(tuán)隊(duì)，他們每天在網(wǎng)上瀏覽4000件時(shí)裝，并做出甄別，擇優(yōu)選擇。我們還聘請另一專家團(tuán)隊(duì)對其進(jìn)行鑒定?！?/p>

無論是The RealReal還是Vestiaire Collective，都沒把自己視作舊貨交易場所。

“We want people to feel like the pieces are in stores now — that it's modern,” says Wainwright, “We go beyond e-commerce into being a social network for fashion.It's so rare to find that in a second-hand website — and that's what women and girls love; sharing their love of fashion with other fashionistas.”

“我們希望消費(fèi)者感覺它們就是門店銷售的產(chǎn)品，讓消費(fèi)者感受到那種時(shí)尚快感?！睖刭囂卣f，“我們突破了純電商領(lǐng)域，變成了時(shí)尚社交網(wǎng)站。這在二手奢侈品網(wǎng)店顯得鳳毛麟角——這正是女性朋友喜歡我們網(wǎng)店的原因所在：與其他時(shí)尚達(dá)人分享時(shí)尚的愛好。”

而消費(fèi)者的購物習(xí)慣將越來越取決于二手時(shí)裝市場。溫賴特最引以為豪的是，自己正逐漸影響奢侈品市場以及正改變消費(fèi)者的購物模式——尤其是讓消費(fèi)者對特定款式與流行品牌的真實(shí)價(jià)值一清二楚。有些大品牌的吸引力難以為繼，在網(wǎng)店的定價(jià)與銷售額量就已一目了然，這可能會出乎業(yè)界意料。然而品牌內(nèi)部的人事變動對于自身二手品的熱銷與否也會有巨大作用。

“Two-and-a-half years ago, Gucci had really bad resale value,” offers Wainwright, citing the recent appointment of Alessandro Michele as a turning point.“Now it's right up there — it's big.They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.”

“兩年半以前，古馳的二手貨售價(jià)不盡人意?！睖刭囂刂鲃诱f道，并說古馳最近聘請亞歷山德羅·米歇爾出任創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)成為其轉(zhuǎn)折點(diǎn)?！叭缃窆篷Y又成了高大上的搶手品牌，它又煥發(fā)出勃勃生機(jī)，消費(fèi)者對其趨之若鶩，因此現(xiàn)在甚至米歇爾之前幾位創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)設(shè)計(jì)的古馳，尤其是帶標(biāo)識的那些，都容易出手——它又變得價(jià)值不菲了?！?/p>

她認(rèn)為二手奢侈品的買賣很好地教育了消費(fèi)者，讓其增強(qiáng)了信心、增長了見識：

“Our shoppers look to check the resale value of things.They do notice if a brand has no resale value and move away from it.When I meet consignors they always say ‘You've changed the way I shop.'”

“我們的消費(fèi)者期望檢驗(yàn)二手奢侈品的價(jià)格。他們真的注意到：如果該品牌沒有二次銷售價(jià)值，他們就會移情其它品牌。我與委托人見面時(shí)，他們總是這樣說：‘你改變了我的購物模式。'”

詞匯總結(jié)

stigma ['st?gm?]

n.[植]柱頭；恥辱；污名；烙印；特征

Second-hand used to have a stigma.

買二手時(shí)裝在過去是件丟臉的事。

curation [kju?re???n]

指在中國文化創(chuàng)意、藝術(shù)文化領(lǐng)域，通過創(chuàng)意構(gòu)思、資源整合（人脈、文化藝術(shù)、渠道、媒體）等智慧勞動，鏈接中高端品牌、文化、藝術(shù)項(xiàng)目與社會大眾的關(guān)聯(lián)，使活動、展覽、演出發(fā)揮高效系統(tǒng)專業(yè)的經(jīng)濟(jì)、社會、文化效應(yīng)。

The second was curation — the internet is so vast, so we do the job of selecting the best pieces.

第二是產(chǎn)品管理——因特網(wǎng)功能強(qiáng)大，所以我們挑選最好的產(chǎn)品。

authenticate [??'θent?ke?t]

vt.鑒定；證明…是真實(shí)的

We also authenticate with a whole other team of experts.

我們還聘請另一專家團(tuán)隊(duì)對其進(jìn)行鑒定。

fashionista [,f??n'ist?]

n.瘋狂追求時(shí)髦與流行的人

That's what women and girls love; sharing their love of fashion with other fashionistas.

reinvigorate [ri??n'v?g?re?t]

vt.使再振作；使復(fù)興

They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.

如今古馳又成了高大上的搶手品牌，它又煥發(fā)出勃勃生機(jī)，消費(fèi)者對其趨之若鶩，因此現(xiàn)在甚至米歇爾之前幾位創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)設(shè)計(jì)的古馳，尤其是帶標(biāo)識的那些，都容易出手——它又變得價(jià)值不菲了。