英國品牌美國遇冷 美國人不待見英國貨？

07英國品牌美國遇冷 美國人不待見英國貨？

英美兩國在政治、文化等方面都有著非常深刻的聯(lián)系，但這種緊密的關(guān)系并沒有為英國品牌打入美國市場帶來什么便利，樂購和瑪莎百貨等英國知名零售店都在美國市場折戟。問題在哪？

英國實業(yè)家珍妮·謝弗(Janie Schaffer)當(dāng)初走馬上任維多利亞的秘密創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)時，被內(nèi)部的各自為政徹底整暈了：“我就是不明白，為何文胸與短褲會毫不相干。所有的印花與顏色就一定得相配嗎？”謝弗回憶道。新同事卻告訴謝弗：美國人買內(nèi)衣就是與眾不同。

英國時尚品牌Ted Baker創(chuàng)始人兼CEO雷·凱爾文(Ray Kelvin)也附和謝弗的說法：“零售商們通常會覺得：‘我們兩國說的是同一種語言（英語），所以趣味應(yīng)該相近。'實際情況是兩者風(fēng)馬牛不相及?！?美國市場的特性仍讓英國零售商頗感棘手。雷·凱爾文暗示道：尤其是美國消費(fèi)者相對保守的時尚品位。

英美兩國政府之間或許存在著特殊關(guān)系，但在購物上，兩國國民的品位與習(xí)慣則大相徑庭。

This lack of understanding has contributed to the undoing of such venerable British brands as Tesco and Marks and Spencer, whose American dreams ended in tatters.Now Primark, which began life as an Irish discount clothing retailer in the 1960s, is poised to enter the US.Already a favourite in the UK and continental Europe, it will make its debut in Boston this year with the first of 10 American outposts set to open by the end of 2016.

由于理解有誤，使得樂購與瑪莎百貨這類英國知名零售店最終在美國市場折戟。如今Primark打算進(jìn)軍美國市場。Primark最初是上世紀(jì)60年代創(chuàng)辦于愛爾蘭的一家服裝折扣零售店，如今已是英國及歐洲時尚擁躉的寵兒，它今年計劃在美國波士頓開設(shè)首家門店，2016年底在全美總共開設(shè)10家門店。

Topshop has been in the US since 2009 and now has nine stores and 70 department store concessions.But the journey has not been easy.“LA could be 80 degrees but in Chicago it could be freezing,” says Sheena Sauvaire, Topshop's global marketing and communications director.“The diversity is the biggest thing we've learnt; not only from climate, and therefore product needs, but also from the local fashion savviness.”

Topshop 2009年就已登陸美國市場，至今才開設(shè)了9家門店和批準(zhǔn)了70家百貨店的特許專營權(quán)。但整個發(fā)展進(jìn)程并不平坦。“洛杉磯的氣溫高達(dá)攝氏26度時，芝加哥可能還是天寒地凍。”Topshop全球營銷與聯(lián)絡(luò)部總監(jiān)希娜·索維爾(Sheena Sauvaire)說。“我們最刻骨銘心的是美國市場的多樣化：不僅氣候差異大導(dǎo)致產(chǎn)品需求千差萬別，而且各地的時尚領(lǐng)悟程度各不相同?！?/p>

While British brands are used to being well known at home, in the US they need to create awareness and excitement — a big challenge in a crowded marketplace.“We're a brand that most women have grown up with in Britain,” says Sauvaire.“Women understand how to ‘Topshop' because it's in the fabric of British life.Exporting that… is quite hard.”

雖說上述英國品牌在本國可謂家喻戶曉，但在美國市場，它們需要另外創(chuàng)建品牌認(rèn)知度與提高認(rèn)可度——這在美國這樣高度發(fā)達(dá)的市場是個巨大挑戰(zhàn)。“我們的品牌伴著多數(shù)英國女性成長，”索維爾說。“英國女性知道如何用Topshop裝扮自己，因為它已深入英國人生活的方方面面。而把這樣的品牌意識輸出到美國可謂任重而道遠(yuǎn)。”

盡管進(jìn)軍美國市場的路并不好走，但英國品牌并不想放棄這片沃土，他們想出了各種策略來應(yīng)對挑戰(zhàn)。

Burberry, which increased underlying sales in the Americas by 16 per cent in the year to March 2015 and which opened a store in Los Angeles last year, is well-versed in the power of a localised event.The LA opening was marked with a “London in Los Angeles” fashion show in April, with musicians Tom Odell and George Ezra, and the 1st Battalion Grenadier Guards, who marched down the catwalk.“One of the things that has resonated with the US consumer is the Britishness of the Burberry story,” says John Smith, the company's chief operating officer.

從年初至三月份，Burberry在美國市場的基本銷售額增長了16%，去年它在洛杉磯開設(shè)了一家門店，因此深諳本土化活動的超凡作用。今年4月，為慶祝洛杉磯門店開設(shè)，博柏利舉辦了洛城版的倫敦時裝秀，邀請歌星湯姆·奧德爾(Tom Odell)、喬治·埃茲拉(George Ezra)以及英國近衛(wèi)步兵第一團(tuán)第一營先后亮相T型臺。“美國消費(fèi)者反響最大的是博柏利洛杉磯門店展現(xiàn)的英倫元素?！惫具\(yùn)營總監(jiān)約翰·史密斯(John Smith)說。

A sense of Britishness has also helped Boden and the lifestyle brand Joules to build their US businesses.But Britishness has been only one element of Ted Baker's success, according to Kelvin.The brand entered the US 19 years ago and in 2014 sales nudged $500m.For Kelvin, the key is in having distinctive products.“In the 1980s a lot of people went to America to try to sell socks or ties,” he says.“America's got a lot of big departments selling socks and ties.You've got to have something different.”

英倫特色同樣幫助Boden以及生活品位品牌Joules在美國生根開花，但在凱爾文看來，它只是Ted Baker品牌成功的一個原因。Ted Baker于19年前進(jìn)軍美國市場，2014年總銷售額近5億美元。在凱爾文看來，成功的關(guān)鍵是推出具有鮮明特色的產(chǎn)品?！吧鲜兰o(jì)80年代，許多人登陸美國市場，旨在銷售襪子與領(lǐng)帶。”他說?！懊绹緡泻芏噘u襪子與領(lǐng)帶的大型百貨店，因此向美國人賣的產(chǎn)品必須與眾不同?！?/p>

Primark's point of difference, according to analysts, will be its prices — and its range.While US shoppers have plenty of discount options, Stacey Widlitz, an analyst at SW Retail Advisors, says that no low-price US retailer sells everything from lingerie and homewares to “athleisure” .“Retailers and analysts are underestimating the power of Primark,” she says.Neil Saunders, managing director of research group Conlumino, thinks the prices will prove a draw.“Americans still look for bargains,” he says.

在分析師們看來，Primark的優(yōu)勢就是產(chǎn)品價位低廉與品類齊全。盡管美國消費(fèi)者也有眾多打折商場，但SW Retail Advisors分析師斯泰西·維德利茨(Stacey Widlitz)說：美國沒有一家低價零售店能一應(yīng)俱全地銷售從女式內(nèi)衣、家居用品到休閑運(yùn)動裝等各類產(chǎn)品?！傲闶凵膛c分析師低估了Primark的‘威力'?！彼f。零售業(yè)咨詢公司Conlumino總監(jiān)尼爾·桑德斯(Neil Saunders)認(rèn)為實踐會證明低價位有很大吸引力?！懊绹巳栽谔源蛘郛a(chǎn)品?！彼f。

Even for the retailers that do succeed, the journey can be long and arduous.Kelvin warns: “It's not a quick win.It takes time and effort.If you're just going to open a shop there, forget it.”

即便是那些在美國取得成功的零售店，未來之路依然漫長艱辛。凱爾文警告說：“成功不可能輕而易舉，它需要付出大量時間以及艱辛的努力。如果只是去美國開設(shè)門店，那么請趁早斷了這個念想。”

詞匯總結(jié)

r undoing [?n'du???]

n.毀滅；取消；毀滅的原因

tatter ['t?t?]

n.碎布；破布條；破舊的衣服；崩潰;毀壞

This lack of understanding has contributed to the undoing of such venerable British brands as Tesco and Marks and Spencer, whose American dreams ended in tatters.

由于理解有誤，使得樂購與瑪莎百貨這類英國知名零售店最終在美國市場折戟。

well-versed ['wel'v?:st]

adj.熟知的,通曉的

Burberry, which increased underlying sales in the Americas by 16 per cent in the year to March 2015 and which opened a store in Los Angeles last year, is well-versed in the power of a localised event.

從年初至三月份，Burberry在美國市場的基本銷售額增長了16%，去年它在洛杉磯開設(shè)了一家門店，因此深諳本土化活動的超凡作用。

nudge [n?d?]

vt.用肘輕推；推進(jìn)；向…不停地嘮叨

The brand entered the US 19 years ago and in 2014 sales nudged $500m.

Ted Baker于19年前進(jìn)軍美國市場，2014年總銷售額近5億美元。

arduous ['ɑ?dj??s]

adj.費(fèi)力的；努力的；險峻的

Even for the retailers that do succeed, the journey can be long and arduous.

即便是那些在美國取得成功的零售店，未來之路依然漫長艱辛。