費(fèi)列羅當(dāng)家巧克力醬Nutella“致癌”？！沉寂了半年的一份報(bào)告“詐尸”

02 費(fèi)列羅當(dāng)家巧克力醬Nutella“致癌”？！沉寂了半年的一份報(bào)告“詐尸”

在餐桌上美味了半個(gè)多世紀(jì)的Nutella榛子巧克力醬，最近陷入了“致癌”風(fēng)波……

甜食控一定都了解，如果要選出全世界最有名的巧克力醬，那必定是Nutella（能多益），沒(méi)有之一。

這款巧克力醬是全球第四大巧克力制造商Ferrero（費(fèi)列羅）的明星產(chǎn)品，自1963年面市以來(lái)就融化了無(wú)數(shù)甜食控、巧克力控的芳心。

Instagram上 #nutellalove 話(huà)題的討論量已經(jīng)破10萬(wàn)。這款產(chǎn)品簡(jiǎn)直稱(chēng)得上醬料界的繆斯女神，激發(fā)了美食愛(ài)好者源源不斷的靈感。

不過(guò)最近卻有新聞稱(chēng)，縱橫餐桌半個(gè)多世紀(jì)的Nutella竟然有致癌風(fēng)險(xiǎn)？甚至正在從超市下架？

據(jù)Quartz報(bào)道：

Nutella, the popular hazelnut spread, is being removed from supermarket shelves around the world as a result of a report that suggested one of its ingredients, palm oil, is linked with cancer.

人氣榛子醬料Nutella正在全世界范圍內(nèi)的超市貨架上下架，原因是有報(bào)道稱(chēng)它的配料之一——棕櫚油——與癌癥的發(fā)病有關(guān)。

Already, one of Italy's larger grocery chain, Coop, has stopped selling the spread, according to the BBC.The European Food Safety Authority report, released in May 2016, said the palm oil in spreads such as Nutella was more likely to have carcinogenic components—including Glycidyl fatty acid esters— than other vegetable oils.It's unclear why the eight-month-old report is only now causing panic.

BBC稱(chēng)，意大利最大的零售連鎖店Coop已經(jīng)停止銷(xiāo)售這款醬料。歐洲食品健康局在2016年5月發(fā)布的報(bào)告中稱(chēng)，和其他植物油相比，Nutella這樣的醬料中所含的棕櫚油更可能含致癌物（包括縮水甘油脂肪酸酯）。尚不清楚為何8個(gè)月前發(fā)布的報(bào)告會(huì)在現(xiàn)在引起恐慌。

以Nutella為原材料制作的甜品

回顧歐洲食品健康局那時(shí)發(fā)布的報(bào)告，我們發(fā)現(xiàn)，其實(shí)里面并未提及Nutella或者其他品牌的醬料。這份名為Process contaminants in vegetable oils and foods（植物油和食物中的加工殘留物）的文章是這么說(shuō)的：

Glycerol-based process contaminants found in palm oil, but also in other vegetable oils, margarines and some processed foods, raise potential health concerns for average consumers of these foods in all young age groups, and for high consumers in all age groups.

棕櫚油和其他植物油、人造奶油和其他加工食品中發(fā)現(xiàn)了含有甘油基的殘余物，這增加了年輕普通消費(fèi)者和全年齡段忠誠(chéng)消費(fèi)者的健康擔(dān)憂(yōu)。

EFSA assessed the risks for public health of the substances: glycidyl fatty acid esters (GE), 3-monochloropropanediol (3-MCPD), and 2-monochloropropanediol (2-MCPD) and their fatty acid esters.The substances form during food processing, in particular, when refining vegetable oils at high temperatures (approx.200°C).

歐洲食品健康局評(píng)估了以下物質(zhì)對(duì)公眾健康的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)：縮水甘油脂肪酸酯（GE）、3-氯-1,2-丙二醇（3-MCPD）、2-氯-1,3-丙二醇（2-MCPD）以及它們的脂肪酸酯化合物。這些物質(zhì)在食物加工過(guò)程中產(chǎn)生，尤其是在高溫下（約200℃）提煉植物油時(shí)。

The highest levels of GE, as well as 3-MCPD and 2-MCPD (including esters) were found in palm oils and palm fats, followed by other oils and fats.For consumers aged three and above, margarines and ‘pastries and cakes' were the main sources of exposure to all substances.

在棕櫚油和棕櫚脂中GE、3-MCPD、2-MCPD及其脂肪酸酯化合物的含量最高，含量次之的為其他油類(lèi)和脂類(lèi)。對(duì)于3歲及以上消費(fèi)者來(lái)說(shuō)，人造奶油和“甜點(diǎn)及蛋糕”是這些物質(zhì)最主要的攝入來(lái)源。

EFSA's expert Panel on Contaminants in the Food Chain (CONTAM) considered information on the toxicity of glycidol (the parent compound of GE) for its risk assessment of GE, assuming a complete conversion of the esters into glycidol following ingestion.

歐洲食品健康局研究食品鏈中污染物的專(zhuān)家小組在對(duì)GE進(jìn)行風(fēng)險(xiǎn)評(píng)估時(shí)，考慮了縮水甘油（也就是GE的母物質(zhì)）的毒性，提出了一個(gè)完整的在吸收后、從酯類(lèi)到縮水甘油轉(zhuǎn)化的過(guò)程。

Dr Helle Knutsen, Chair of the CONTAM Panel, said: “There is sufficient evidence that glycidol is genotoxic and carcinogenic, therefore the CONTAM Panel did not set a safe level for GE.”

研究食品鏈中污染物專(zhuān)家小組組長(zhǎng)Helle Knutsen說(shuō)：“可以充分證明縮水甘油具有基因毒性，并且致癌。因此我們沒(méi)有給GE一個(gè)安全限值?！?/p>

如果看看Nutella的配料表我們便會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)，人們對(duì)于這款榛子巧克力醬或致癌的惶恐緣何而起了。

在reddit.com上，一名網(wǎng)友制作了一張示意圖來(lái)說(shuō)明Nutella的主要成分。我們可以直觀看到，一瓶巧克力醬中到底有多少糖和棕櫚油——它們占據(jù)了相當(dāng)大的比例。

網(wǎng)友“MrFlow”制作的示意圖，自上而下依次為：棕櫚油、脫脂奶粉、可可粉、榛子碎和糖。

Nutella堅(jiān)持使用棕櫚油的原因或與成本有關(guān)，USA TODAY直接指出：

According to Reuters, Ferrero may be hesitant to phase out palm oil, in part because it's the cheapest vegetable oil on the market.

根據(jù)路透社報(bào)道，費(fèi)列羅可能還在猶豫是否要淘汰棕櫚油，部分原因是它是市面上最便宜的植物油了。

以Nutella為原材料制作的甜品

面對(duì)負(fù)面?zhèn)髀劊a(chǎn)商費(fèi)列羅自然也沒(méi)有坐以待斃，在第一時(shí)間出面澄清。據(jù)ABC報(bào)道：

Ferrero wants to assure its consumers that Nutella and other Ferrero products that contain palm oil are safe.

費(fèi)列羅想要向消費(fèi)者們保證，Nutella和其他含有棕櫚油的費(fèi)列羅產(chǎn)品都是安全的。

When palm oil, produced and processed to minimalize the presence of these contaminants, is refined correctly, it contains a lower level of contaminants than other vegetable oils that have been treated at excessive temperatures.This case applies to the palm oil used by Ferrero, who for years has been able to significantly reduce the levels of contaminants in its palm oil compared to conventional palm oils available on the market, similar to the levels found in other vegetable oils that have been processed properly, in line with EFSA's parameters.

棕櫚油的生產(chǎn)和加工中已經(jīng)將這些污染物減少到最低限度，并且被完善地精煉過(guò)了。和其它經(jīng)高溫處理的植物油相比，它的污染物含量更低。這樣的工藝應(yīng)用于費(fèi)列羅使用的棕櫚油上。和市面上其它的棕櫚油相比，我們一直以來(lái)都可以顯著地將棕櫚油的污染物水平降低到更低水平；和其它處理過(guò)的植物油相比也是如此。符合歐洲食品健康局標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

This is due to careful harvesting, from the squeezing in the quickest possible time to the processes and manufacturing at the lowest possible temperatures.We manage all technological-productive factors with the aim to reduce the duration and the temperatures of the processes, thus minimizing the risks of possibly developing or increasing 2MCPD, 3MCPD or GE.

這是依靠仔細(xì)的收割，從最快的榨取時(shí)間到將過(guò)程溫度控制得盡可能低。我們控制了一切技術(shù)生產(chǎn)的影響因素，來(lái)降低生產(chǎn)過(guò)程的耗時(shí)和溫度，因此最大程度地將產(chǎn)生或者增加2MCPD、3MCPD或者GE的可能性降到最低。

Furthermore, our Quality Assurance and Process Control Systems allow us to constantly monitor such factors and guarantee the food safety of our products to the consumer.

此外，我們的質(zhì)量保證和過(guò)程控制系統(tǒng)讓我們可以持續(xù)地監(jiān)管這樣的影響因素，保證我們呈現(xiàn)給消費(fèi)者的食品安全。

想安心地吃口東西真的越來(lái)越難了。

詞匯總結(jié)

hazelnut spread

榛子醬

Nutella, the popular hazelnut spread, is being removed from supermarket shelves around the world as a result of a report that suggested one of its ingredients, palm oil, is linked with cancer.

人氣榛子醬料Nutella正在全世界范圍內(nèi)的超市貨架上下架，原因是有報(bào)道稱(chēng)它的配料之一——棕櫚油——與癌癥的發(fā)病有關(guān)。

carcinogenic [,kɑ?s(?)n?'d?en?k]

adj.致癌的；致癌物的

The palm oil in spreads such as Nutella was more likely to have carcinogenic components —including Glycidyl fatty acid esters.

Nutella這樣的醬料中所含的棕櫚油更可能含致癌物（包括縮水甘油脂肪酸酯）。

phase out

逐步結(jié)束；逐步撤出；逐步完成

According to Reuters, Ferrero may be hesitant to phase out palm oil, in part because it's the cheapest vegetable oil on the market.

根據(jù)路透社報(bào)道，費(fèi)列羅可能還在猶豫是否要淘汰棕櫚油，部分原因是它是市面上最便宜的植物油了。

vegetable oil

植物油

The substances form during food processing, in particular, when refining vegetable oils at high temperatures (approx.200°C).

這些物質(zhì)在食物加工過(guò)程中產(chǎn)生，尤其是在高溫下（約200℃）提煉植物油時(shí)。

contaminant [k?n't?min?nt]

n.(食品)污染物，致污物

It contains a lower level of contaminants than other vegetable oils that have been treated at excessive temperatures.

和其它經(jīng)高溫處理的植物油相比，它的污染物含量更低。