還有……小劃船
77 OPEN SESAME芝麻開門
ALI BABA came to the cave of the forty thieves. The door in the rock was shut. “Open sesame,” said Ali Baba, and the door swung open.
Ali Baba was a Mohammedan. So was Sinbad the Sailor, so were Prince Agib and all the rest of those fascinating people in the “Arabian Nights.”
“Open sesame.” Let’s see if the magic words will open the door of this chapter to show the treasures of Mohammedan architecture.
The Mohammedans believe in a book called the Koran which is for them what the Bible is for Christians. Now, the Koran forbade any Mohammedan to make a picture or a likeness of any living thing. So you can easily guess that a Mohammedan temple, or mosque as it is called, must be very different from a Gothic cathedral which is covered with hundreds of statues of men and animals and plants.
Another difference you would probably notice at once if you were in Istanbul or any other Mohammedan city would be the number of domes. These domes are generally not round but oblong like half an egg or an onion and they often have points on the tops like the end of a fat turnip or beet. But all the mosques do not have domes, for a Mohammedan dome used to be the sign of a tomb and only where the building served as a tomb for some one, a dome was built.
When you get close to a Mohammedan building you notice that the builders must have been good carvers of stone and marble, even if their religion didn’t allow them to carve statues of living things. Their carving is a pattern of straight lines and curves, squares and circles, diamond shapes and star shapes, zigzags, and crisscrosses. Some of the carving is so fine it forms a network that looks like stone lace.
Inside the buildings the carving and decorations become even richer than outside. The designs are called arabesques because the first Mohammedans were Arabs and the Arabs built many mosques decorated in this way. Sometimes the arabesques are writings from the Koran The Arabian letters are graceful and make beautiful decorations.
And inside these Mohammedan buildings we are apt to find still another form of decoration that other buildings do not have. The vaults under the domes (the ceilings of the rooms) often have a curious carved work that looks like hundreds of little stone icicles hanging down from the roof.
In every Mohammedan village is at least one minaret or tower for the muezzin, a man who climbs up five times a day to call the people to prayer. Some of the mosques have a minaret at each corner.
“Come to prayer, come to prayer. There is no god but Allah and Mohammed is his prophet,” sings the muezzin, and then all good Mohammedans face toward the sacred city of Mecca and kneel in prayer. Mecca is the sacred city because Mohammed himself was born and lived there. Each Mohammedan mosque has a niche or hollow in the wall nearest Mecca. This niche takes the place of the altar in a church or temple.
The early Mohammedans did not believe in simply asking other people to become Mohammedans. They brought people into their religion by saying to them, “Be a Mohammedan or we’ll kill you.” So the Mohammedan religion spread quickly from Arabia where it started, for the Arabs were great conquerors. Eastward it spread, farther and farther, through Persia and across India. Bagdad became the capital city of these eastern Mohammedans. Westward the Arabs pushed across Egypt, across northern Africa till they came to the Strait of Gibraltar. This did not stop them. They built boats and sailed across to Spain. Through Spain they spread until they got as far as France. All Europe would probably have become Mohammedan if the French had not stopped the Arabs in a battle fought at the town of Tours, in France.
No.77-1 ARABESQUFS IN THE ALHAMBRA, GRANADA
(格林納達阿爾漢布拉宮的阿拉伯圖案)
But much of Spain did become Mohammedan. The Arabs in Spain were called Moors. The Moors set up a capital at Cordova for all the Western Mohammedans, just as Bagdad was the Eastern capital just as the Roman Empire had once had an Eastern and Western capital—Rome and Constantinople. For over seven hundred years the Moors ruled in Spain until they were finally driven out about the time of Columbus.
In Cordova the Moors built a huge mosque which is still standing there. You remember how the Mohammedans turned the Christian church of St. Sophia in Constantinople into a mosque. Well, in Cordova just the opposite happened. For when the Moors were finally driven out of Spain the Christians turned the Mohammedan mosque into a church. And a church it still is.
But by far the most famous Mohammedan building in Spain is the Alhambra. The Alhambra was built by the Moorish kings of Granada in Spain as a kind of fortress palace. The Alhambra is on a tall hill of rock with steep cliffs that helped keep back enemies. Inside the different buildings were guard rooms and halls, gardens and courts, all decorated with thousands of arabesques. The Court of Lions is one part of the Alhambra that you may have heard of. It looks something like a cloister, for round its four sides are arcades. In the middle is a big marble basin, held on the backs of twelve lions, which is used as a fountain.
And now I’m sure you are going to ask an embarrassing question. It’s embarrassing because I can’t answer it.
“How could the Moors have marble lions if they were not supposed to carve statues of living things?”
No.77-2 THE COURT OF LIONS IN THE ALHAMBRA(阿爾漢布拉宮的獅子庭院)
I don’t know. Maybe the lions were an exception that proved the rule. Maybe the lions were carved by Christians and captured and brought to the Alhambra by the Moors. Maybe … But who knows? On page 367 is a picture of them. Do you see any arabesques?
Another noted building in Spain left by the Moors is called the Giralda Tower. Giralda meant weather-vane. The weather-vane is naturally on the very top of the tower. It is a figure of Faith that swings with the wind. The top three stories of the tower are Christian Renaissance architecture, because when the Christians finally drove the Moors out of Spain they used the Mohammedan buildings for their own needs and often added to them.
Now I’m going to take you from Spain in the West to India in the East. In Agra, India, lived a Mohammedan ruler who erected a building in honor of his wife. You will be surprised to hear what kind of building it was. It was a tomb! And yet his wife was still alive when he built her tomb.
No.77-3 THE GAJ MAHAL(泰姬陵)
That seems strange to us, but it was the custom there. It was a sensible custom, at that, for the ruler and his wife used the tomb as a kind of pleasure house where visitors were received and parties were held. Then when the rulers died they were buried there.
This tomb is called the Taj Mahal. As it was a tomb, it was crowned with a dome. Many travelers who have seen it have called it the most beautiful building in the world. They have even placed it ahead of the Parthenon. The Taj Mahal is built all of marble and shines in the sun like a beautiful white jewel. Around the building are gardens, trees, lawns, and fountains and right in front of it is a long rectangular pool of water that reflects the trees and the Taj Mahal too.
And with the Taj Mahal we will end our story of Mohammedan buildings, saying as Ali Baba might say to close the chapter, “Shut sesame.”
阿里巴巴來到四十大盜的洞口,發(fā)現(xiàn)洞門緊閉。“芝麻開門。”阿里巴巴一喊,門就開了。
阿里巴巴和《一千零一夜》故事里所有搞笑的人物,如水手辛巴達、王子阿吉卜一樣,都是伊斯蘭教徒。
“芝麻開門。”我們來看看這個魔語能否打開這一有關(guān)伊斯蘭建筑瑰寶大門的篇章。
伊斯蘭教徒信奉《古蘭經(jīng)》,就像基督徒信奉《圣經(jīng)》?!豆盘m經(jīng)》禁止任何伊斯蘭教徒創(chuàng)作任何有關(guān)動物的肖像或圖畫。所以,你也許會自然而然地聯(lián)想到伊斯蘭教的寺院或清真寺,肯定與哥特式大教堂極為不同,因為哥特式教堂上刻有成百上千人像和動植物雕像。
如果你在伊斯坦布爾或其他穆斯林城市,可能還會立刻注意到另外一個不同點,那就是這些城市有數(shù)不清的圓頂。這些圓頂通常不是圓形,而是橢圓形,就像半個雞蛋或半個洋蔥那樣,而頂部還常呈尖形,就像一顆粗大的蕪菁根或甜菜根。但并不是所有的清真寺都有圓頂,因為清真寺的圓頂是墳墓的象征,只有當某座清真寺用作某人的墳墓時,才會建一個圓頂。
當你走近一座伊斯蘭教建筑物時,你會注意到,即便他們的宗教不允許雕刻活物的像,但建筑師們必須同時也是出色的石匠或大理石雕工。他們雕刻的圖案,有直線和曲線的,有方形和圓形的,有星星狀和菱狀的,還有Z字形和十字形的。有些雕刻非常精美,形成網(wǎng)狀,看起來就像石刻花邊。
建筑內(nèi)部的雕刻和裝飾要比外部豐富得多。這些裝飾叫做阿拉伯式圖案,因為最初的伊斯蘭教徒是阿拉伯人,而且阿拉伯人用這種圖案裝飾了許多清真寺。有時阿拉伯圖案還會采用《古蘭經(jīng)》的文字。阿拉伯字母優(yōu)雅,可以做成許多好看的裝飾。
我們在伊斯蘭教建筑的內(nèi)部還會看到另外一種在其他建筑里看不到的裝飾類型。在圓頂下方的穹頂(就是各個房間的天花板)上你常會看到一種奇怪的雕刻作品,看上去就像懸掛在屋頂上數(shù)不清的小小的冰石柱。
在伊斯蘭教信徒的村莊里都至少建一座光塔或宣禮塔,這樣宣禮人便可每天五次登塔呼喚人們祈禱。有些清真寺在每個拐角處都建一座宣禮塔。
“快來祈禱,快來祈禱。真主安拉,先知穆罕默德。”宣禮人吟誦道,然后所有虔誠的伊斯蘭教信徒都跪下來,朝著圣城麥加的方向祈禱。麥加是伊斯蘭教創(chuàng)始人穆罕默德出生和生活的地方,所以就成了圣城。每一座清真寺在最靠近麥加方向的墻壁上都安置一個神龕或挖一個空洞。這些神龕就相當于教堂或神廟里的祭壇。
早期的伊斯蘭教徒認為用簡單的勸說方式不可能使人皈依伊斯蘭教。他們?yōu)榱俗屓损б谰驼f:“要么入教,要么去死。”所以伊斯蘭教便迅猛從發(fā)源地阿拉伯向外擴展,因為阿拉伯人都是了不起的征服者。伊斯蘭教就這么一直向東傳,穿越波斯,跨越印度。巴格達成為這些來自東方伊斯蘭教徒們的首府。阿拉伯人向西,橫掃埃及,跨越北非,直抵直布羅陀海峽。他們并不罷休。他們開始造船,跨海到達西班牙。他們穿越西班牙,直抵法國。要不是法國人在圖爾斯的一個小鎮(zhèn)上以一場戰(zhàn)斗阻止了阿拉伯人,也許現(xiàn)在整個歐洲都信伊斯蘭教了。
但大部分西班牙人還是皈依了伊斯蘭教。在西班牙的阿拉伯人被稱為摩爾人。摩爾人在科爾多瓦為所有西部的伊斯蘭教徒設立了首府,就像巴格達是所有東方伊斯蘭教徒的首府一樣,就像羅馬帝國曾一度有東西兩都——羅馬和君士坦丁堡一樣。摩爾人在西班牙統(tǒng)治了七百多年之久,直到哥倫布時代他們才最終被趕出西班牙。
摩爾人在科爾多瓦建造的大清真寺至今依然屹立。還記得伊斯蘭教徒們是如何在君士坦丁堡把基督教的圣索菲亞教堂變成清真寺的吧。在科爾多瓦,發(fā)生的事正好相反。當西班牙人最終把摩爾人趕出時,他們將伊斯蘭教的清真寺改建成了教堂。直到今天,它還是教堂。
但迄今為止西班牙最著名的伊斯蘭教建筑要數(shù)阿爾漢布拉宮了。阿爾漢布拉宮是西班牙格蘭納達的摩爾諸王建造的要塞宮殿。它建造在一座高高的懸崖陡峭的石山上,有利御敵。在宮殿內(nèi)不同的建筑里設置有保安室和大廳,花園和庭院,里面都裝飾著成千上萬的阿拉伯圖案。你也許聽說過阿蘭布拉宮的獅子庭院吧。它看起來像是一座修道院,因為它的四面都是拱廊。庭院的中間設置了一個很大的大理石盆,安放在十二頭獅子背上,用作噴泉。
接下來我想你肯定要問一個令人棘手的問題了。說它棘手,是因為我根本就回答不了。
“既然摩爾人不允許雕刻活物,那這些獅子雕像是怎么一回事呢?”
我不知道。也許這些獅子是個例外吧。也許這些獅子先是基督徒雕刻的,之后被摩爾人俘獲,運送到阿爾漢布拉宮的。也許是這樣……可誰又能知道呢?看看下面這幅圖吧??吹桨⒗畧D案了嗎?
西班牙另外一座由摩爾人遺留下來的著名建筑叫做吉拉爾達塔。吉拉爾達塔意為風向標。很自然的,風向標安放在塔的頂端。塔尖是一個宗教圖案,隨風擺動。塔頂三層是文藝復興時期的基督教風格建筑,因為當基督徒最終把摩爾人趕出西班牙時,他們把伊斯蘭教建筑物據(jù)為己有,常以往上加蓋的方式為我所用。
我們現(xiàn)在從西方的西班牙來到東方的印度。在印度的阿格拉住著一位伊斯蘭教統(tǒng)治者,他為了紀念妻子而建造了這樣一座建筑物。當你聽到這是什么建筑物時一定會大吃一驚。它是一座陵墓!而當陵墓建好時,他的妻子還活著。
這在我們看來很奇怪,但這是那邊的習俗。這是一個非常明智的習俗,因為國王和王后都將陵墓作為接待來賓和舉行宴會的場所。他們死后,就埋在那兒。
這座陵墓叫做泰姬陵。因為是陵墓,頂部就設計成圓頂。許多來參觀過泰姬陵的游客都認為這是世界上最漂亮的建筑物,甚至超過帕臺農(nóng)神廟。泰姬陵全是由大理石筑成,在陽光下閃閃發(fā)亮,宛如美麗的白色珠寶。泰姬陵的周圍有花園、樹木、草地和噴泉。泰姬陵的正前方是一個長方形水池,倒映著泰姬陵和它周圍的樹木。