零售業(yè)的大災(zāi)難是關(guān)閉旗艦店

　　零售業(yè)的大災(zāi)難是關(guān)閉旗艦店

NEW YORK — It used to be considered the retailer's crown jewel — a large format store on a swank corridor that showed off the best of what a brand had to offer.

紐約——它曾經(jīng)被認(rèn)為是零售商的皇冠上的寶石——一個位于華麗走廊上的大型商店，展示了一個品牌所能提供的最好的東西。

But now the so-called flagship store is disappearing from high-profile shopping thoroughfares like Manhattan's Madison Avenue and Chicago's Magnificent Mile because of skyrocketing rents and the shift to online shopping.

但如今，由于租金飆升以及向網(wǎng)購的轉(zhuǎn)變，所謂的旗艦店正在從曼哈頓的麥迪遜大道(Madison Avenue)和芝加哥的壯麗大道(Magnificent Mile)等知名購物大道上消失。

Over the last year or so, Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Lord & Taylor and Polo Ralph Lauren have closed their flagship stores on Manhattan's Fifth Avenue. Abercrombie announced in May that it was closing three more of its big locations — an Abercrombie store in Milan, an Abercrombie store in Fukuoka, Japan and a Hollister-branded store in Manhattan's SoHo area. The announcement came after the teen retailer shut down flagships in Hong Kong and Copenhagen.

在過去一年左右的時間里，Gap、湯米•希爾費(fèi)格(Tommy Hilfiger)、Lord & Taylor和拉爾夫•勞倫(Polo Ralph Lauren)都關(guān)閉了位于曼哈頓第五大道的旗艦店。今年5月，Abercrombie宣布將關(guān)閉另外三家大型門店——米蘭的一家Abercrombie門店、日本福岡的一家Abercrombie門店和曼哈頓SoHo區(qū)的一家霍利斯特(hollister)品牌門店。此前，這家青少年零售商關(guān)閉了香港和哥本哈根的旗艦店。

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Other retailers are reimagining the flagship concept instead of abandoning it altogether. Nike, for instance, opened a massive store on Fifth Avenue late last year that doesn't have any cash registers. It lets shoppers see details of items displayed on a mannequin by scanning the QR code and then having those items delivered to a fitting room or a designated pickup spot. Levi Strauss & Co.'s new flagship in Manhattan's Time Square features larger dressing rooms with call buttons and tailors who can add trims and patches to customers' jeans.

其他零售商正在重新構(gòu)思這一旗艦概念，而不是完全放棄它。例如，耐克(Nike)去年年底在第五大道開了一家大型商店，店里沒有任何收銀機(jī)。通過掃描二維碼，購物者可以看到展示在人體模型上的商品細(xì)節(jié)，然后把這些商品送到試衣間或指定的取貨點(diǎn)。李維斯公司(Levi Strauss & Co.)位于曼哈頓時代廣場(Time Square)的新旗艦店設(shè)有更大的試衣間，里面有呼叫按鈕和裁縫，可以為顧客的牛仔褲添加裝飾和補(bǔ)丁。

Those still clinging to the old concept, however, are having a harder time. The latest victim could be Barneys New York, which opened its 10-story Madison Avenue store in 1993 and became a cultural icon in luxury shopping but now risks closure. High rents and a dramatic shift toward online shopping are pressuring it to evaluate restructuring options, including possible bankruptcy, according to a source close to the matter who asked to remain anonymous because the discussions are confidential.

然而，那些仍然堅(jiān)持舊觀念的人日子不太好過。最新的受害者可能是紐約巴尼百貨公司(Barneys New York)，該公司于1993年在麥迪遜大道(Madison Avenue)開設(shè)了10層樓高的門店，成為奢侈品購物領(lǐng)域的文化偶像，但現(xiàn)在面臨倒閉的風(fēng)險。據(jù)一位不愿透露姓名的消息人士稱，高昂的租金和向網(wǎng)上購物的急劇轉(zhuǎn)變，正迫使該公司評估重組方案，包括可能的破產(chǎn)。

Joseph Aquino, who runs his namesake real estate services firm, says the days of the shop-til-you drop mentality on Madison Avenue popularized by the HBO popular series of the 1990s "Sex in the City" are over.

約瑟夫·阿基諾(Joseph Aquino)經(jīng)營著他的同名房地產(chǎn)服務(wù)公司，他表示，上世紀(jì)90年代HBO的熱門連續(xù)劇“欲望都市”(Sex In The City)在麥迪遜大道上流行起來的那種“逛街”(shop-to-you drop)的時代已經(jīng)結(jié)束了。

"She was 45 and now she is 65... She isn't shopping like she was 45," Aquino said. "We are in the phase where a lot of younger shoppers don't want to go the high street. They sit around and buy online and that's what we are fighting against."

“她45歲，現(xiàn)在65歲了……她不像45歲時那樣購物了。“我們正處在一個階段，許多年輕的購物者不想去商業(yè)街。他們無所事事，在網(wǎng)上購物，而這正是我們所反對的。”

The concept of a flagship store is more than a century old and used to be limited to retailers' biggest store — one in their first or most prominent location. But in the last 20 years, a flagship store frenzy took hold and retailers from Gap to H&M looked at them as a must-have shrine to their brands, opening multiple flagships in multiple locations. Not only that but they were willing to pay exorbitant sums of money to showcase their merchandise in luxury corridors.

旗艦店的概念已有一個多世紀(jì)的歷史，過去僅限于零售商最大的商店——第一家或位置最突出的商店。但在過去20年里，一股旗艦店熱潮席卷了各大品牌，從Gap到H&M的零售商都把它們視為自己品牌的必購圣地，在多個地點(diǎn)開設(shè)了多家旗艦店。不僅如此，他們還愿意花高價在豪華走廊上展示自己的商品。