國家地理:香氛熏陶的歷史(5)

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Today most Kannauj attar ends up in the Middle East and among regional Muslim communities in India. In Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk, a market built in the 17th-century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, Gulab Singh Johrimal is a longtime institution that now carries both attar and modern fragrances. It's almost always full of Muslim men in search of attar to scent themselves before Friday prayers and festivals such as Eid.

現(xiàn)如今，卡瑙杰大部分的阿塔爾最后會輸往中東，或是印度的地區(qū)性穆斯林小區(qū)。在蒙兀兒皇帝沙賈汗于17世紀(jì)建立的舊德里月光市集中，古拉布·辛格·久里馬爾這家老店如今既販賣阿塔爾，也販賣現(xiàn)代香水。在周五的禮拜和開齋節(jié)等節(jié)日前，店內(nèi)幾乎總是擠滿了男性穆斯林，找尋用來妝點(diǎn)自己的阿塔爾。

But local markets aren't enough to sustain the Kannauj's distilleries, and many have had to close or shift to making facsimiles of Western perfumes.

然而當(dāng)?shù)厥袌霾蛔阋灾慰ㄨЫ艿恼麴s廠，許多蒸餾廠不得不收掉或轉(zhuǎn)型仿制西方香水。

Nonetheless, Kapoor is optimistic. He spends much of his time courting top international perfume houses, touting the traditions of attar and the terroir of Kannauj botanicals. "Western tastes are shifting East," he says. "Typically, the West prefers light, citrusy notes, but these days you see the big daddies like Dior, Hermès, and of course, the Middle Eastern perfume houses going for gilded scents like rose and shamama."

盡管如此，卡浦爾還是很樂觀。他花很多時(shí)間宣揚(yáng)阿塔爾的傳統(tǒng)以及卡瑙杰的植物風(fēng)土特色，以尋求國際頂級香水公司的注意?！拔鞣降钠肺墩饾u轉(zhuǎn)向東方?！彼f：“西方一般偏好清爽的柑橘調(diào)性，不過現(xiàn)在你會發(fā)現(xiàn)像迪奧、愛馬仕等龍頭公司，當(dāng)然還有中東的香水公司，都開始采用玫瑰和沙瑪瑪?shù)壬萑A的香氣?！?/p>