國(guó)家地理:一次翻越世界屋脊的歷史性旅行(5)

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My walk is a circle, albeit one with the radius of the world.

我的旅程也是一個(gè)環(huán)，雖然只是世界的半圓弧。

On the morning of September 23, in a coarse ice mist, we set out with two pack donkeys to climb Irshad Pass, a high and desolate gateway close to where the Hindu Kush meets the Karakoram Range, dividing Afghanistan from Pakistan.

9月23日的早晨濃密的冰霧中，我們趕著兩頭馱驢出發(fā)，要爬伊爾沙德山口，那是一座高高而荒涼的門(mén)戶，緊靠興都庫(kù)什山脈和喀拉昆侖山脈交會(huì)的地方，是阿富汗和巴基斯坦的分界。

Climbing a mountain under such conditions is a strange and disorienting experience. It was like scaling a frozen and crazily tilted sea. Windblown ridges rippled the surface of the snow. We punched toeholds into the diamond waves with our ridiculous summer shoes. We tottered along ice-rimed cliffs. Snow hid fatal crevices. Sometimes the donkeys fell through the crust and refused to get up. We reached under their steaming bellies and lifted the animals to their feet. This exhausting ritual happened again and again. We were often lost.

在那么樣的條件下爬山是一種新奇而無(wú)從辨識(shí)方向的經(jīng)歷，就像攀登一座冰冷且陡得令人發(fā)狂的海洋。風(fēng)吹成的山脊在白皚皚的雪地上起伏，我們用自己可笑的夏鞋使勁在鉆石般的冰磧上踩出立足點(diǎn)，我們沿著結(jié)滿冰霜的懸崖蹣跚前行，雪花掩蓋了致命的裂縫，有時(shí)馱驢都覺(jué)得踩穿了冰殼而不肯站起來(lái)。我們把手伸到它們冒著熱氣的肚子下，抬起驢子讓它站起來(lái)。這種令人筋疲力盡的儀式一次又一次反復(fù)上演。我們還經(jīng)常迷路。

By midday a blizzard was in full gust.

到中午的時(shí)候，一場(chǎng)暴風(fēng)雪一陣陣地使勁吹。

"Hello, Arthur, can you do me a favor?"

“喂，亞瑟，能幫我個(gè)忙嗎？”

Paley was shouting into the satellite phone. We couldn't see a hundred steps ahead, much less the peaks far above. Paley's brother in Paris googled and read out to us the GPS coordinates for Irshad.

佩利對(duì)著衛(wèi)星電話大喊大叫。我們看不見(jiàn)100步之外，更不用說(shuō)上面的山峰了。佩利的哥哥在巴黎用Google搜索并給我們讀出伊爾沙德山口的GPS坐標(biāo)。