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散文:FondMemoriesofPeiping

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2015年06月02日

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  設(shè)若讓我寫(xiě)一本小說(shuō),以北平作背景,我不至于害怕,因?yàn)槲铱梢話抑赖?寫(xiě),而躲開(kāi)我所不知道的。讓我單擺浮擱的講一套北平,我沒(méi)辦法。北平的地方那么大,事情那么多,我知道的真覺(jué)太少了,雖然我生在那里,地直到廿七歲才離開(kāi)。以名勝說(shuō),我沒(méi)到過(guò)陶然亭(1),這多可笑!以此類推,我所知道的那點(diǎn)只是“我的北平”, 而我的北平大概等于牛的一毛。

  I have no misgivings about writing a novel with Peiping as its background because I can choose to write about what I am most familiar with while shying away from what is less known to me. But I shall be at a complete loss if I should be called upon to write exclusively about Peiping. Peiping is so big and multifaceted that very little of it, I believe, is known to me though I was born and brought up there and never went away until I was 27. Just fancy that I have neglected to visit even Tao Tan Ting, a local scenic attraction! It follows that, in contrast with Peiping in its entirety, what little I know about it is probably a mere drop in the ocean.可是,我真愛(ài)北平。這個(gè)愛(ài)幾乎是要說(shuō)而說(shuō)不出的。我愛(ài)我的母親。怎樣愛(ài)?我 說(shuō)不出。在我想作一件事討她老人家喜歡的時(shí)候,我獨(dú)自微微的笑著;在我想到她的 健康而不放心的時(shí)候,我欲落淚。言語(yǔ)是不夠表現(xiàn)我的心情的,只有獨(dú)自微笑或落淚才足以把內(nèi)心揭露在外面一些來(lái)。我之愛(ài)北平也近乎這個(gè)??洫?jiǎng)這個(gè)古城的某一點(diǎn)是容易的,可是那就把北平看得太小了。我所愛(ài)的北平不是枝枝節(jié)節(jié)的一些什么,而是整個(gè)兒與我的心靈相粘合的一段歷史,一大塊地方,多少風(fēng)景名勝,從雨后什剎海的蜻蜓一直到我夢(mèng)里的玉泉山的塔影(2),都積湊到一塊,每一小的事件中有個(gè)我,我的每一思念中有個(gè)北平,這只有說(shuō)不出而己。

  I do cherish, however, a genuine love for Peiping一a love that is almost as inexpressible as my love for mother. I smile by myself when I think of something I can do to please mother; I feel like crying when I worry about mother's health. Words fail me where silent smiles and tears well express my innermost feelings. The same is true of my love for Peiping. I shall fail to do justice to this vast ancient city if I should do no more than extol just one certain aspect of it. The Peiping I love is not something in bits and pieces, but a phase of history and a vast tract of land completely bound up with my heart. Numerous scenic spots and historical sites from Shi Sha Hai Lake with its dragonflies after a rain to the Yu Quan Shan Mountain with the dream pagoda on top一all merge into a single whole. I associate myself with everything in Peiping no matter how trivial it is; Peiping is always in my mind. I can't tell why.

  真愿成為詩(shī)人,把一切好聽(tīng)好看的字都浸在自己的心血里,像杜鵑(3)似的啼出北平的俊偉。啊!我不是詩(shī)人!我將永遠(yuǎn)道不出我的愛(ài),一種像由音樂(lè)與圖畫(huà)所引起的愛(ài)。這不但是辜負(fù)了北平,也對(duì)不住我自己,因?yàn)槲沂亲畛醯闹R(shí)與印象都得自北平,它是在我的血里,我的性格與脾氣里有許多地方是這古城所賜給的。我不能愛(ài)上海與天津,因?yàn)槲倚闹杏袀€(gè)北平。可是我說(shuō)不出來(lái)!

  If only I were a poet so that, with all the sweet and beautiful words at my command, I would sing of the grandeur of Peiping in as longing a note as that of a cuckoo! Alas, I am no poet! I shall never be able to express my love一the kind of love as inspired by music or painting. That is quite a letdown to both Peiping and myself, for it is to this ancient city that I owe what I have within me, including my early knowledge and impressions as well as much of my character and temperament. With Peiping possessing my heart, I can never become attached to either Shanghai or Tianjin. I can't tell why.倫敦,巴黎,羅馬與堪司坦丁堡,曾被稱為歐洲的四大“歷史的都城”。我知道一些倫敦的情形;巴黎與羅馬只是到過(guò)而己;堪司坦丁堡根本沒(méi)有去過(guò)。就倫敦,巴黎,羅馬來(lái)說(shuō),巴黎更近似北平一一雖然“近似”兩字都拉扯得很遠(yuǎn)一一不過(guò),假使讓我“家住巴黎”,我一定會(huì)和沒(méi)有家一樣的感到寂苦。巴黎,據(jù)我看,還太熱鬧。自然,那里也有空曠靜寂的地方,可是又未免太曠(4);不像北平那樣復(fù)雜而又有個(gè)邊際(5),使我能摸著一一那長(zhǎng)著紅酸棗的老城墻!面向著積水灘,背后是城墻,坐在石上看水中的小姍抖或葦葉上嫩蜻蜓,我可以快樂(lè)的坐一天,心中完全安適,無(wú)所求也無(wú)可怕,像小兒安睡在搖籃里。是的,北平也有熱鬧的地方,但是它和太極拳相似,動(dòng)中有靜。巴黎有許多地方使人疲乏,所以咖啡與酒是必要的,以便刺激;在北平,有溫和的香片茶就夠了。

  London, Paris, Rome and Constantinople are known as the four major "historic capitals" of Europe. I know something about London; I have been to Paris and Rome only briefly; I have never visited Constantinople at all. Of all these cities, Paris has the closest affinity with Peiping (The word "affinity" may perhaps sound a bit farfetched). Nevertheless, if should make my home in Paris, I would feel very lonely as if I had no home at all. As far as I know, Paris is too much of a bustling town. It does have quiet open spaces, but they smack of mere expanses of vacancy. Peiping is complicated and yet tangible. I can feel it by touch. I can feel the red wild jujubes growing on its ancient city wall! I can spend a whole day enjoying myself sitting on a rock to observe tiny tadpoles in the water or tender dragonflies on reeds while facing me lies Ji Shui Tan Pond and right behind me rises the high city wall. I can thus enjoy a perfect inner clam, free from any desire or fear, like a child sleeping peacefully in the cradle. There are also bustling places in Peiping, to be sure, but like the traditional Chinese shadow boxing Tai Ji Quan, the city retains its stillness in the midst of motion. While Parisians have to turn to coffee or wine for the relief of boredom caused by so many wearisome places in their city, the mild beverage of jasmine tea will be more than adequate for dwellers of Peiping.

  論說(shuō)巴黎的布置己比倫敦羅馬勻調(diào)的多了,可是比上北平還差點(diǎn)事兒。北平在人為之中顯出自然,幾乎是什么地方即不擠得慌,又不太僻靜;最小的胡同里的房子也有院子與樹(shù);最空曠的地方也離買賣街與住宅區(qū)不遠(yuǎn)。這種配法可以算一一在我的經(jīng)驗(yàn)中一一天下第一了。北平的好處不在處處設(shè)備得完全,而在它處處有空兒,可以使我自由的喘氣;不在有好些美麗的建筑,而在建筑的四周都有空閑的地方,使它們成為美景。每一城樓,每一牌樓,都可以從老遠(yuǎn)就看見(jiàn)。況且在街上還可以看見(jiàn)北山與西山呢!

  Though Paris has a better layout than London or Rome, it nevertheless cannot compare with Peiping, one always finds the natural in the midst of the artificial. The city as a whole is neither too crowded nor too secluded. Even houses tucked away in very small lanes have their own courtyards and trees. Even the most secluded places are situated within a stone's throw of business or residential districts. Such a layout is, to my mind, without equal all over the world. However, what distinguishes Peiping is not the perfect layout, but the open spaces here and there where people can breathe freely; not the many beautiful buildings, but the open grounds around each building which add to its architectural beauty. Each gate tower of the city wall and each pailou (decorated archway) can been seen from afar. And the Northern and Western hills are visible to people in the open streets.好學(xué)的,愛(ài)古物的,人們自然喜歡北平,因?yàn)檫@里書(shū)多古物多。我不好學(xué),也沒(méi)錢買古物。對(duì)于物質(zhì)上,我卻喜歡北平的花多菜多果子多?;ú菔欠N費(fèi)錢的玩藝,可是此地的“草花兒”很便宜,而且家家有院子,可以花不多的錢而種一院子花,即使算不了什么,可是到底可愛(ài)呀。墻上的牽牛,墻根的靠山竹與草茉莉,是多么省錢省事而足以招來(lái)蝴蝶呀!至于青菜,白菜,扁豆,毛豆角,黃瓜,菠菜等等,大多數(shù)是直接由城外擔(dān)來(lái)而送到家門口的。雨后,韭菜葉上還往往帶著雨時(shí)濺起的泥點(diǎn),青菜攤子上的紅紅綠綠幾乎有詩(shī)似的美麗。果子有不少是由西山與北山來(lái)的,西山的沙果,海棠,北山的黑棗,柿子,進(jìn)了城還帶著一層白霜兒呀!哼,美國(guó)的橘子包著紙,遇到北平的帶著霜兒的玉李,還不愧殺!

  Those who are fond of studying or collecting curios will naturally be drawn to Peiping, which is remarkable for its rich store of books and curios. Personally I am not given to studying, nor do I have spare money to buy curios. But I am keen on the flowers, vegetables and fruit which grow in rich abundance in Peiping. Gardening is something very expensive. But since flowers of herbaceous plants in Peiping are very cheap and each house has a courtyard of its own, it does not cost very much to plant a whole courtyard to such flowers which, though humble, are nevertheless lovely to look at, such as morning glories on the wall, china pinks at the foot of wall and marvels-of-Peru. Yes, cheap as they are, they attract butterflies! Green vegetables, cabbages, hyacinth beans, young Soya beans, cucumbers, spinach, etc. are often carried straight form the suburbs to your residential quarters for marketing. Often, leeks from rural farms after a rain still have specks of mud on their leaves. The vegetables stalls are so colorful that they present a scene of poetic charm. Fruits come mainly from the western and northern suburbs, such as crab apples and cherry apples from the Western Hills, and jujubes and persimmons from the Northern Hills. Look, how they are still covered with frostlike bloom when they are put on the market! Indeed, America's paper-wrapped oranges will pale beside Peiping's plums bearing a thin coating of frostlike bloom!  London, Paris, Rome and Constantinople are known as the four major "historic capitals" of Europe. I know something about London; I have been to Paris and Rome only briefly; I have never visited Constantinople at all. Of all these cities, Paris has the closest affinity with Peiping (The word "affinity" may perhaps sound a bit farfetched). Nevertheless, if should make my home in Paris, I would feel very lonely as if I had no home at all. As far as I know, Paris is too much of a bustling town. It does have quiet open spaces, but they smack of mere expanses of vacancy. Peiping is complicated and yet tangible. I can feel it by touch. I can feel the red wild jujubes growing on its ancient city wall! I can spend a whole day enjoying myself sitting on a rock to observe tiny tadpoles in the water or tender dragonflies on reeds while facing me lies Ji Shui Tan Pond and right behind me rises the high city wall. I can thus enjoy a perfect inner clam, free from any desire or fear, like a child sleeping peacefully in the cradle. There are also bustling places in Peiping, to be sure, but like the traditional Chinese shadow boxing Tai Ji Quan, the city retains its stillness in the midst of motion. While Parisians have to turn to coffee or wine for the relief of boredom caused by so many wearisome places in their city, the mild beverage of jasmine tea will be more than adequate for dwellers of Peiping.


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