轉(zhuǎn)手市場(chǎng)大受歡迎的HM

As fast-fashion giant H&M (HMb.ST) pushes more designer tie-ups, some consumers are eschewing the long lines outside stores to buy the looks in the fast-growing resale market.

隨著快時(shí)尚巨頭H&M與更多的設(shè)計(jì)師展開(kāi)合作，一些消費(fèi)者不再在H&M門店外排長(zhǎng)隊(duì)，而是在快速增長(zhǎng)的轉(zhuǎn)售市場(chǎng)購(gòu)買同款服裝。

H&M has released 15 designer and brand collaboration collections to date in 2019 compared to 11 in the whole of last year.

到目前為止，H&M在2019年已經(jīng)發(fā)布了15個(gè)與設(shè)計(jì)師和品牌合作的系列產(chǎn)品，而去年H&M全年發(fā)布了11個(gè)合作系列產(chǎn)品。

The latest is its collection of looks crafted in collaboration with Italian designer Giambattista Valli. Most pieces were sold out on H&M websites across Europe hours after launch on Thursday, including a ruffled red tulle evening gown priced at $549 and worn by model Kendall Jenner in H&M’s high-profile ad campaign.

最新的合作系列是它與意大利設(shè)計(jì)師詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利合作設(shè)計(jì)的產(chǎn)品。周四在H&M發(fā)布新品幾個(gè)小時(shí)后，歐洲各地的H&M網(wǎng)站上的新品就銷售一空，其中包括一件褶飾紅色薄紗晚禮服，其標(biāo)價(jià)為549美元。模特肯達(dá)爾·詹娜曾在H&M高調(diào)的廣告宣傳活動(dòng)中穿過(guò)這件晚禮服。

But another marker for products’ desirability is the resale market online. H&M restricted the sale of the Giambattista Valli collection to one of each item to stop shoppers buying clothes to immediately resell.

而另一個(gè)產(chǎn)品備受歡迎的標(biāo)志是網(wǎng)上的轉(zhuǎn)售市場(chǎng)。H&M將詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利系列的銷售設(shè)定為一種產(chǎn)品限買一件，以阻止消費(fèi)者購(gòu)買衣服后立即轉(zhuǎn)售。

“We are fundamentally positive about a secondhand market,” H&M Creative Designer Ann-Sofie Johansson, who works on designer alliances, told one foreign news agency in an interview.

H&M創(chuàng)意設(shè)計(jì)師兼設(shè)計(jì)師聯(lián)盟成員安-蘇菲·約翰遜在接受外媒采訪時(shí)表示：“我們對(duì)二手市場(chǎng)基本上持樂(lè)觀態(tài)度。”

“It’s just when someone makes a business out of it that we don’t like it,” she said, referring to the practice of buying at the retail price and then flipping to make a profit, rather than selling pre-worn items at a later date.

“只是當(dāng)有人利用它做生意時(shí)，我們不喜歡這種方式，”她說(shuō)道。她指的是按零售價(jià)購(gòu)買，然后轉(zhuǎn)手獲利的做法，而不是在之后出售舊衣服。

At online fashion marketplace Poshmark, items from H&M’s Giambattista Valli micro collection, released earlier this year before Thursday’s main launch, sell for around five times more than the eponymous designer label itself, Poshmark said.

在線時(shí)尚市場(chǎng)Poshmark(二手服裝電商平臺(tái))表示，H&M與詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利于今年早些時(shí)候發(fā)布的合作產(chǎn)品的售價(jià)是同名設(shè)計(jì)師品牌產(chǎn)品的五倍左右，之后其合作產(chǎn)品于周四正式發(fā)布。

A long pink silk dress from that collection sold for $475 in May, shortly after it went on sale in H&M stores at a retail price of $299, one Poshmark listing showed.

據(jù)Poshmark的一份清單顯示，該系列的一件粉色絲綢長(zhǎng)裙今年5月的售價(jià)為475美元，而不久后其在H&M門店的零售價(jià)變?yōu)?99美元。

Meanwhile, a Giambattista Valli shift dress from the designer’s own ready-to-wear line is listed for less than $200 on California-based resale marketplace Tradesy - considerably less than the retail price of the H&M collaboration pieces - said Randi Eichenbaum, vice president of Tradesy product management.

與此同時(shí)，在總部位于加利福尼亞的轉(zhuǎn)手市場(chǎng)Tradesy(一家出售二手設(shè)計(jì)師服裝的時(shí)尚網(wǎng)站)上，設(shè)計(jì)師詹巴蒂斯塔· 瓦利自有成衣品牌的一件直筒連衣裙的售價(jià)不足200美元，遠(yuǎn)低于H&M合作款的零售價(jià)，Tradesy產(chǎn)品管理副總裁蘭迪·艾肯鮑姆說(shuō)道。

On average, pieces from H&M collaborations sell 22 percent faster than pieces from brands’ main labels, said luxury resale platform The RealReal, although some alliances are more highly-sought-after than others.

奢侈品轉(zhuǎn)售平臺(tái)The RealReal表示，通常H&M合作款服裝比品牌方主品牌服裝的銷售速度快22%，不過(guò)一些合作品牌比其他品牌更受歡迎。