男性成中國(guó)化妝品市場(chǎng)“新寵”

法新社最近的一篇報(bào)道指出，男性正在成為中國(guó)化妝品領(lǐng)域新“網(wǎng)紅”。隨著市場(chǎng)和觀念的變化，化妝品不再是女性的專用品，男性稍微化點(diǎn)妝也開(kāi)始被人接受，由此催生出了一個(gè)新興的男性化妝品市場(chǎng)。

When Jiang Cheng first tried a bit of concealer during his first year of university in China it gave him self-confidence and he was instantly hooked.

江成(音)大一的時(shí)候第一次嘗試用了點(diǎn)遮瑕霜之后自信了起來(lái)，他一下子就對(duì)化妝來(lái)了興趣。

Now he is among hundreds of Chinese men sharing beauty tips online and cashing in on the booming male cosmetics industry.

現(xiàn)在，他是中國(guó)數(shù)百個(gè)在網(wǎng)絡(luò)上分享化妝技巧、從蓬勃發(fā)展的男性化妝品行業(yè)“分一杯羹”的男性之一。

"I found that putting on make-up is actually quite easy," the 24-year-old said as he gently brushed his face with some foundation.

24歲的江成(音)一邊輕輕地在臉上刷粉底，一邊說(shuō)：“我發(fā)現(xiàn)化妝其實(shí)挺容易的。”

"Women may not fully grasp the concept of male make-up. If a girl puts on my make-up, they may not be able to achieve the effect that I really want," Jiang said.

江成說(shuō)：“女性不能完全領(lǐng)會(huì)男性化妝品的理念。如果女孩用我的化妝品，可能無(wú)法達(dá)到我真正想要的效果。”

Every weekend, Jiang spends a couple of hours in front of his iPhone at his makeshift studio in Beijing trying on the latest balms and blush for hundreds of live viewers, who can simultaneously buy the products he reviews.

每個(gè)周末，江成都會(huì)花幾個(gè)小時(shí)在他北京的臨時(shí)工作室，坐在他的蘋(píng)果手機(jī)前，面向數(shù)百名直播觀眾試用最新彩妝和腮紅，這些觀眾可實(shí)時(shí)購(gòu)買(mǎi)他所評(píng)價(jià)的產(chǎn)品。

"This color is not that outrageous that men can't wear it safely even in a conservative environment," he explains to his fans.

他告訴粉絲：“這個(gè)顏色不太夸張，在保守環(huán)境下男性也可放心使用。”

Online beauty stars form an enormous industry in China, with internet celebrities known as "wang hong", or online stars, blurring the line between entertainment and e-commerce.

網(wǎng)上美妝明星在中國(guó)形成了龐大的產(chǎn)業(yè)，這些被稱為“網(wǎng)紅”的網(wǎng)絡(luò)名人模糊了娛樂(lè)和電子商務(wù)之間的界限。

Companies like Alibaba and JD.com have launched live-streaming platforms that allow viewers to purchase on the go while watching videos. And cosmetics brands pay big money for online celebrities, almost always female, to review their new products.

阿里巴巴和京東等很多中國(guó)企業(yè)都推出了實(shí)時(shí)直播平臺(tái)，觀眾可以邊看視頻直播邊下單購(gòu)物?；瘖y品品牌花大價(jià)錢(qián)聘請(qǐng)網(wǎng)絡(luò)名人評(píng)價(jià)它們的新品，這些網(wǎng)紅幾乎都是女性。

But now the market and gender norms are changing, with cosmetics no longer seen as exclusively for women and male celebrities showing that it is okay for men to dab on a bit of blush.

但是現(xiàn)在市場(chǎng)和性別標(biāo)準(zhǔn)發(fā)生了改變，化妝品不再被看做女性專屬，男性網(wǎng)紅向人們展示，男性也可以微微擦一點(diǎn)腮紅。

Jiang says a firm that manages bloggers pays him around 5,000 yuan per month to feature products from cosmetics companies.

江成說(shuō)，一家管理博主的公司每個(gè)月給他大約5000元人民幣，詳細(xì)展示化妝品公司的產(chǎn)品。

歐睿信息咨詢公司表示，中國(guó)男性美妝市場(chǎng)未來(lái)5年預(yù)計(jì)增長(zhǎng)15.2%，而同期全球市場(chǎng)將增長(zhǎng)11%。

Increasingly, foreign firms like La Mer and Aesop work with video bloggers such as "Lan Pu Lan", to promote their products to his nearly 1.4 million followers.

海藍(lán)之謎和伊索等越來(lái)越多的國(guó)際公司也開(kāi)始和視頻博主合作，比如與美妝博主“蘭普蘭”合作，將產(chǎn)品推廣給他的140萬(wàn)粉絲。

The 27-year-old spends up to 10,000 yuan a month on beauty products and says China's "Little Fresh Meat" -- a term referring to young good-looking men -- is spearheading this trend.

這位27歲的博主每月花費(fèi)近萬(wàn)元購(gòu)買(mǎi)美妝產(chǎn)品。他說(shuō)，中國(guó)的“小鮮肉”(年輕貌美的男性)正引領(lǐng)這一風(fēng)潮。

"We're seeing more men in the media wearing make-up. This will naturally become the norm," Lan said.

他說(shuō)：“我們?cè)诿襟w上看到越來(lái)越多的男性化著妝。這會(huì)自然而然地成為一種常態(tài)。”

Despite what appears to be social progress in many of the country's cosmopolitan cities, the video blogger says he still receives hate messages and criticism for appearing in smoky red eyeshadow.

雖然這一趨勢(shì)在中國(guó)很多大都市都被視為一種社會(huì)進(jìn)步，但他還是會(huì)因?yàn)榛藷熝t眼影收到仇恨信息和批評(píng)。

"'Why would a man look like that? Why does a man need to wear make-up?' These are some of messages I get," Lan says, adding he has been called a "sissy" and other slurs.

他說(shuō)：“為什么男人要化成那樣?為什么男人需要化妝?我收到的一些信息都是這么說(shuō)的。”還有人用“娘娘腔”等侮辱性詞語(yǔ)稱呼他。

For Jiang, the fear of being ridiculed by his own parents stops him from picking up the make-up brush in front of them.

江成說(shuō)，他擔(dān)心遭到父母的奚落，因此不敢在他們面前化妝。

"I don't want to have conflict with my parents. We don't see eye to eye, our values and concepts of life are different.

“我不想與父母發(fā)生沖突。我們的想法并不完全一致，價(jià)值觀和觀念也不一樣。”

"They are just unable to accept the daily make-up routine for a man," he says.

他說(shuō)：“他們只是無(wú)法接受男人每天都化妝。”

不過(guò)，中國(guó)男性化妝品公司軒諦的執(zhí)行董事莫飛表示，這些情況會(huì)隨著時(shí)間改變。

"There will be more and more men who take more care in how they look and the demands will increase. Men in the East are more accepting," Mo says.

他說(shuō)：“越來(lái)越多的男性將更加關(guān)注自己的外表，需求會(huì)隨之增加。東方男性接受度會(huì)更強(qiáng)。”

He opened Chetti Rouge in 2005 with few products. Now the beauty company sells a wide variety of cosmetics ranging from foundation to lipstick solely for men and has moved the entire business online.

莫飛于2005年創(chuàng)辦了軒諦，當(dāng)時(shí)產(chǎn)品很少?，F(xiàn)在這家化妝品公司出售從男士專用粉底到唇膏等各種化妝品，并將全部業(yè)務(wù)轉(zhuǎn)到線上。

"We saw potential in the market very early on," Mo told AFP, adding that the company expanded to Thailand three years ago.

他告訴法新社說(shuō)：“我們很早就看到了市場(chǎng)潛力。”軒諦在3年前就將業(yè)務(wù)擴(kuò)展到了泰國(guó)。

"It might be that men have accepted make-up. For men to browse products in shopping malls, may be for some men a little intimidating, hence the best way for them to buy is online, which is why our sales strategy is mainly on the internet."

“男性可能接受了化妝。有些男性可能害怕在購(gòu)物中心選擇產(chǎn)品，因此對(duì)他們來(lái)說(shuō)網(wǎng)購(gòu)最適合，所以我們主要在網(wǎng)上銷(xiāo)售。”