每年幾度的時(shí)裝秀到底在兜售什么

Throughout this fashion season, I’ve been askinganyone and everyone what they think will be thefuture of fashion and specifically, the shows. Thequestion was precipitated by announcements fromBurberry and Tom Ford that they would be shiftingtheir runway presentations in future to a “ready-to-buy” model whereby, rather than the normal six-month interval, items seen on the catwalk will go onsale immediately online and in store. If widelyadopted, it would mark a huge shift in the industrytowards a more commodity-based show schedule. Italso presents many questions of what the fashion show should be — or whether we even needone.

在今年的時(shí)裝季期間，我就時(shí)尚、尤其是時(shí)裝周的未來問遍了業(yè)內(nèi)各色人以及各家品牌，立馬得到了博柏利(Burberry)與湯姆•福特(Tom Ford)的反饋：它們未來將把重心從T型臺(tái)發(fā)布會(huì)轉(zhuǎn)向“展后即賣”( “ready-to-buy”)模式，即時(shí)裝從秀場(chǎng)展示到銷售不再有6個(gè)月時(shí)間差，而是在T型臺(tái)展出后、直接在網(wǎng)店及實(shí)體門店銷售。如果這種做法廣為推行，則標(biāo)志著時(shí)尚界的驚天巨變——著眼于更注重產(chǎn)品銷售的時(shí)裝秀模式;這同樣引發(fā)諸多問題：時(shí)裝周該何去何從、抑或甚至說我們是否還需要它。

From designer to chief executive, and from buyer to publicist, the responses have been asvaried as the many different business models that might allow for the new world order. Somehave embraced the idea as a necessary step to keep fashion moving forward and the customerengaged. Others have been alarmed: they argue that the time it takes for stock to arrive instore is vital in building desire in the consumer, and that the new approach would crush thewholesale system — and thereby the nascent fashion labels which depend on those earlyorders that make production possible.

無論從設(shè)計(jì)師到創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)、還是從買家到公關(guān)人員，他們的反饋形形色色，就如同因應(yīng)時(shí)尚界全新格局而派生出的商業(yè)模式一樣五花八門。有些人贊同上述理念，認(rèn)為這是讓時(shí)尚業(yè)不斷發(fā)展以及消費(fèi)者深度參與其中的必由之路;其他人則感到恐慌：他們認(rèn)為貨源從預(yù)訂到門店銷售的時(shí)間差對(duì)于鞏固消費(fèi)者的需求至關(guān)重要，并認(rèn)為新的銷售模式會(huì)摧毀整個(gè)批發(fā)體系——因而禍及那些初創(chuàng)品牌，而它們的生產(chǎn)與這些先期訂單相向而行。

Some designers can’t wait to have a more immediate dialogue with their clients. Others worrythat without the final deadline of a show which everyone attends, and the introduction insteadof a rolling schedule of presentations for the different buyers, journalists, magazine editors andstylists that must see the clothes, their work may never be done.

有些設(shè)計(jì)師心急火燎地想讓自己設(shè)計(jì)的時(shí)裝“直通”消費(fèi)者;而其他設(shè)計(jì)師則擔(dān)心：如果沒有人人參與的有時(shí)間限期的時(shí)裝周和吹風(fēng)會(huì)(應(yīng)向不同買家、記者、時(shí)尚雜志主編以及設(shè)計(jì)師同行一場(chǎng)接一場(chǎng)地舉行時(shí)裝發(fā)布會(huì))，他們的設(shè)計(jì)工作永遠(yuǎn)無法完成。

“It’s a mess,” said Karl Lagerfeld in Milan. “I need a final deadline in order to keep my creativesanity,” said Coach creative head Stuart Vevers in New York. “I need to protect my wholesaleorders,” said designer Christopher Kane in London.

身在米蘭的老佛爺(Karl Lagerfeld)說：“這樣做會(huì)亂了套”。身在紐約的蔻馳(Coach)創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)圖爾特•維佛斯(Stuart Vevers)說：“我需要時(shí)裝周的時(shí)間表以保持自己永不衰竭的創(chuàng)造活力。”而身在倫敦的克里斯托弗•凱恩(Christopher Kane)則說：“我得確保自己的批發(fā)訂單。”

I write this at day 25 of the season. At this point, I’ve seen around 160 shows, and about 8,000looks. I’m not so fool as to think that everything I see will end up in a store: I’m as complicit asanyone in this industry subterfuge that pretends we’re all about to wear this stuff. But the showis about so much more than product.

今年的時(shí)裝周，我觀看了大約160場(chǎng)發(fā)布會(huì)，欣賞了約8000款時(shí)裝。我還不至于如此愚鈍：自己看到的所有時(shí)裝最后都會(huì)拿到門店銷售：我與大家一樣對(duì)業(yè)界的騙人鬼話“沆瀣一氣”——謊稱自己有朝一日都會(huì)穿這些時(shí)裝。但時(shí)裝周的意義遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超過時(shí)裝本身。

Michael Burke, chief executive of Louis Vuitton, was emphatic on the sanctity of the showwhen I met with him last week. “Our model of business is already ready-to-buy in that most ofour sales are in the pre-collections which go in store without a show,” he argued of the hugecommercial collections never seen on a catwalk that arrive in shops in May and December andmake up the vast majority of sales.

我不久前采訪路易威登CEO邁克爾•伯克(Michael Burke)時(shí)，他認(rèn)為時(shí)裝周的至高無上地位不容置疑。“我們的經(jīng)營(yíng)模式早已是展后即賣，原因就在于我們銷售的大多數(shù)時(shí)裝是不經(jīng)過秀場(chǎng)展示而直接在門店銷售的季前系列。”他為去年五月與12月大量從未在T型臺(tái)展示而直接進(jìn)店銷售、占據(jù)絕大多數(shù)銷售份額的時(shí)裝如此爭(zhēng)辯道。

Louis Vuitton is one of the handful of brands which presents some off-schedule pre-collections(known as “cruise”). Most other brands quietly slip their pre-collection orders in-store afternegotiating independently with the buyers.

路易威登(Louis Vuitton)是推出計(jì)劃外季前系列裝(即“cruise”季)的其中一家品牌(真正餞行者屈指可數(shù))。多數(shù)品牌與買家單獨(dú)談妥后，往往把季前裝訂單悄無聲息“塞進(jìn)”門店付諸實(shí)施。

The trouble is, ready-to-buy is boring. Do you want to see a show featuring 60 black cashmeresweaters? Neither do I. As Burke explains, for Louis Vuitton, “only 5 to 10 per cent of storemerchandise is presented on the runway, and our catwalk collections are by definition morefashion forward and not immediately commercial when they first appear”.

問題是：展后即賣模式容易讓人膩煩。諸位會(huì)愛看一場(chǎng)展示60款黑色羊絨衫的時(shí)裝發(fā)布會(huì)嗎?我也一樣。正如伯克如此為路易威登辯解道，“門店銷售產(chǎn)品只有5-10%在T型臺(tái)上展示過，而我們?cè)赥型臺(tái)上首次展出的時(shí)裝更趨前衛(wèi)，并不著眼于即時(shí)銷售。”

“For us, the show is not about commercial product. It’s about being transgressive andremaining interesting. So that we have something to talk about. So that it presents a totalvision that will then filter down through to the consumer through to the various dialogues thatare then had — in print, within the ad campaigns and in magazines.”

“對(duì)我們來說，秀場(chǎng)并非注重銷售類時(shí)裝。它關(guān)乎大膽前衛(wèi)的同時(shí)又讓時(shí)尚擁躉癡迷不已;其目的就是娓娓道出時(shí)尚故事，呈現(xiàn)時(shí)尚總體畫卷，而后潛移默化影響消費(fèi)者，再借助專著、廣告造勢(shì)活動(dòng)以及時(shí)尚雜志不斷引發(fā)時(shí)尚觀點(diǎn)的交流互動(dòng)。”

“Fashion is the most contemporary form of art,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the CameraNazionale della Moda Italiana (Italy’s chamber for fashion). The show is fashion’s theatre: a 10-minute vignette of what a brand represents and where it’s going next. It’s quick, short,powerful and when done well, or especially badly, it sears an image on to your brain in a waythat can’t be replicated on a screen or in a showroom.

“時(shí)尚是最新的藝術(shù)形式。”意大利時(shí)尚協(xié)會(huì)(Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana)主席卡洛斯•卡帕斯(Carlo Capasa)說。時(shí)裝周是展示時(shí)尚的舞臺(tái)：短短10分鐘就清晰展示了該品牌的時(shí)尚內(nèi)涵以及其未來走向。它簡(jiǎn)短、生動(dòng)而高效;一旦策劃成功(或者說演砸了)，就會(huì)讓時(shí)尚擁躉“刻骨銘心”，廣告片與樣品陳列室的效果根本無法與其相提并論。

This weekend in Paris, I saw an autobahn-set fairytale at Chalayan, an exploration of all thing“Teutonic” where models wore severed ponytails from their ear lobes, dresses embroidered withdashboard details and silks printed with old German sewing patterns; at Junya Watanabe’s“Hyper Construction”, I watched a slowly choreographed maths lesson involving geometricdresses folded in a spongy bonded polyurethane and accessorised with rubber caps andbizarrely shaped headwear.

時(shí)裝季中，我在巴黎觀看了以德國(guó)高速公路為背景的卡拉揚(yáng)(Chalayan)時(shí)裝專賣場(chǎng)：對(duì)各種“日耳曼”時(shí)尚風(fēng)格進(jìn)行了嘗試——走秀的模特戴著掛在耳垂的半截馬尾辮、穿著繡有詳盡儀表盤信息圖案的裙子以及印有昔日德國(guó)針線活圖紋的真絲裝;在渡邊淳彌(Junya Watanabe)的Hyper Construction時(shí)裝發(fā)布會(huì)，我猶如看了一堂精心編排的數(shù)學(xué)課——用富有彈性的粘接型聚氨酯面料交疊而成的各種幾何造型時(shí)裝，再用橡膠帽以及奇形怪狀的頭飾來搭配。

At Comme des Garçons, the models wore armadillo-type layers of material body armour andpanniers all covered in beautiful, antiquey brocades. The brand’s 73-year-old designer ReiKawakubo called the collection 18th Century Punk, “because the 18th century was a period ofchange and revolution. This is how I imagine punks would look like if they had lived in thiscentury”.

在Comme des Garçons發(fā)布會(huì)上，模特身穿類似犰狳的一層層盔甲面料裝以及撐裙(外用復(fù)古風(fēng)格的漂亮織錦覆蓋)。旗下73歲的設(shè)計(jì)師川久保玲(Rei Kawakubo)稱此系列為18世紀(jì)的朋克藝術(shù)，“因?yàn)?8世紀(jì)是風(fēng)起云涌的變革年代。這就是我設(shè)想朋克生活在18世紀(jì)的模樣”。

Comme des Garçons’s annual revenues currently stand at $260m. And that’s not because thebrand’s about to sell a lot of brocade cocoons or vast layered pink vinyl jackets. It sells a lotof quirky black clothes, stripy T-shirts and esoteric fragrances. Many features of this punkcollection will percolate through into the commercial offering seen in store: the pink suitjacket will be stripped back; the brocades turned into blouses. But people will buy thosesimpler commercial pieces because they believe in the authenticity of Kawakubo’s art, andwant a piece of her vision. To my mind, delivering that vision in 17 extraordinary, outlandishlooks is the simplest, most effective way of doing business.

Comme des Garçons目前的年銷售額高達(dá)2.6億美元。這并非由于他們打算大量售賣織錦料“繭形服裝”(cocoon)以及乙烯基面料的粉色層狀?yuàn)A克裝。相反，他們的銷售額來自于大賣風(fēng)格怪異的黑色裝、條紋T恤衫以及千奇百怪的香水。這個(gè)朋克系列時(shí)裝的諸多時(shí)尚特點(diǎn)會(huì)潛移默化滲透至門店銷售的各款時(shí)裝中去：粉色西服外套會(huì)退場(chǎng)，織錦會(huì)做成短上衣。但消費(fèi)者會(huì)出手購買門店銷售的那些簡(jiǎn)約裝，原因是他們喜歡真正的川久保玲風(fēng)格，希望擁有體現(xiàn)其其設(shè)計(jì)理念的款式。在本人看來，用17種不同尋常的另類款式展現(xiàn)自己的設(shè)計(jì)理念是最經(jīng)濟(jì)、也是最有效的行銷模式。

Yet not all shows are so removed from their commercial outcome. At Isabel Marant, 44 early-1980s punk rockers walked out in shiny red leathers, oversized tweed coats and big cat prints;clothes and accessories that will surely be exactly the same when they arrive in store. Marant isan expert merchandiser and her clothes are designed to walk off the catwalk into the closet. Hercollection was highly marketable, and a little less memorable for it.

然而，并非所有時(shí)裝秀場(chǎng)都如此不接實(shí)際銷售的地氣。在伊莎貝爾•瑪蘭(Isabel Marant)的發(fā)布會(huì)上，44位朋克搖滾樂手身穿紅色閃亮皮裝、特型粗花呢大衣以及印有大貓圖案的時(shí)裝走秀;所售服裝款式與配飾都與門店完全一樣?，斕m是經(jīng)營(yíng)方面的行家里手，她設(shè)計(jì)的服裝就是為了讓消費(fèi)者“接盤”;她設(shè)計(jì)的時(shí)裝供不應(yīng)求，其紀(jì)念意義則稍遜一籌。

At Céline, however, designer Phoebe Philo has brilliantly occupied the space in whichartistic and commercial currency coexist. Her show, staged between tiered neon seats at theTennis Club de Paris, was full of editors wearing items from her SS16 collection, often theexact kind of difficult designs — bovver boots, curve-waisted coats in a mustardy tweed — thattake a while to reach maturation in the consumer mind.

但在Céline的秀場(chǎng)，設(shè)計(jì)師菲比•菲羅(Phoebe Philo)完美地實(shí)現(xiàn)了藝術(shù)效果與商業(yè)效益兼得。她的時(shí)裝秀在巴黎網(wǎng)球俱樂部(Tennis Club de Paris)一排排熒光座椅間舉辦，各路時(shí)尚主編身穿其設(shè)計(jì)的2016年春夏季時(shí)裝濟(jì)濟(jì)一堂，她們常常身穿那些需要一定時(shí)日才能讓普通擁躉首肯的另類裝束——長(zhǎng)至小腿的厚重靴、用深黃色粗花呢料做的弧形高腰大衣。

Ironic, perhaps, that since an in-house statement stipulating Philo will be staying at Céline forthe immediate future, her AW16 show was a study in “possibilities: the possibilities inherentin the wardrobe, in the woman, and in life”. The palette was stripped right back to blacks,beiges and yellow: a canary coloured furry coat provided the only real clout of colour, while thesilhouette was trapezoid, layered and liberated. Tunic dresses, sheer and oversized, were wornover wide-flared trousers and silky, 10-denier knit tops wrapped over shirts. As withBalenciaga, there were lots of trenchcoats. Many were sleeveless, and left strappy and flapping.The bags were tactile, their straps wrapped around the hand like bandages.

也許頗具諷刺意味的是：因?yàn)镃éline正式宣稱菲羅將在不久的將來繼續(xù)留任創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)一職，而她的2016年秋冬季時(shí)裝秀則探討了“時(shí)裝、女性以及生活中與生俱有的可能性”。時(shí)裝顏色回歸黑色、淺褐色以及黃色：淺黃色毛皮大衣成了唯一真正有影響力顏色的明證，而造型則呈現(xiàn)了不規(guī)則四邊形、節(jié)層狀以及無拘無束的時(shí)尚風(fēng)格。輕薄的束腰特型裝搭配寬喇叭褲，而極輕薄的10D真絲針織上衣(1套在內(nèi)穿襯衣上。與巴黎世家(Balenciaga)一樣，Céline推出了多款風(fēng)衣，而很多是帶有飄逸帶子的無袖款風(fēng)衣;推出的手袋手感好，包帶可以象繃帶一樣纏繞于手上。

“Every one of the looks was touched by hand,” said Philo, who places great emphasis on theslow build of her design process, and cares deeply about whether clothes “feel right”.

“每一款裝束手感都不錯(cuò)。”菲羅說，她特別強(qiáng)調(diào)精打細(xì)造，特別在意時(shí)裝的“好手感”。

Feeling right, doesn’t always look quite right at first. That huge silhouette, the Big Bird robecoat, the exaggerated jagged collars, the flesh-toned polo necks — they weren’t designed tobe immediately accessible. It’s transgressive, but only very gently so. And thank God for that.You’ve got six months to catch up.

手感好并不一定看著養(yǎng)眼。打造那些特型款式(Big Bird長(zhǎng)袍外套、夸張的鋸齒狀衣領(lǐng)、以及肉色高圓領(lǐng))的目的并非為了立即被消費(fèi)者接受。它們顯得前衛(wèi)，但只是略微超前一些而已。謝天謝地，諸位還有6個(gè)月的時(shí)間去適應(yīng)它們。