多納泰拉·范思哲：放松讓我緊張

多納泰拉·范思哲：放松讓我緊張

In the third of a video series on designers’ private working spaces, we go into the studio with Donatella Versace to discuss self-esteem, mistakes and why drawing isn’t so important. And those were just the outtakes. (This conversation was condensed and edited.) VANESSA FRIEDMAN

米蘭——在“設(shè)計(jì)師的私人工作空間”系列視頻的第三集，我們走進(jìn)多納泰拉·范思哲(Donatella Versace)的工作室，討論自信、錯(cuò)誤以及素描為何不那么重要的原因。下文是其摘錄(對(duì)話經(jīng)過剪輯和濃縮)。

多納泰拉·范思哲正在工作。

Q. When most people think of Versace, they think of the palazzo on Via Gesù, but it turns out you work somewhere else.

問：提起范思哲，大部分人想到的是耶穌街的豪華宮殿，沒想到你實(shí)際上在別的地方工作。

A. I moved here 10 years ago. Before, my office was in Via Gesù, in the building where Gianni’s house was. Now we use that garden to do fashion shows, and we have a floor to do showrooms, but in this building are myself and my P.R. people, my assistants and some of the marketing people who work with P.R. Downstairs are all my design teams: first-line Versace woman, accessories, first-line Versace men, house, Versus, children, Versace jeans. Now, you know, I’m tending to realize how many lines we have. It’s scary. I don’t want to count. Sometimes to plan a meeting is impossible, so we talk in the corridor. Sometimes we shout.

答：我十年前搬到了這里。之前我的辦公室在耶穌街詹尼(Gianni)的宅邸里?，F(xiàn)在我們用那個(gè)花園舉辦時(shí)裝秀，有一層是展廳。但是我和公關(guān)人員、助理以及部分市場(chǎng)人員在這里工作。樓下是我的全部設(shè)計(jì)團(tuán)隊(duì)：范思哲主線女裝、配飾、范思哲主線男裝、家居系列、Versus系列、童裝、范思哲牛仔褲?，F(xiàn)在，你知道，我開始意識(shí)到我們有多少個(gè)服裝系列。太可怕了，我可不想去數(shù)。有時(shí)，連安排會(huì)議都很困難，所以我們就在走廊上交談。有時(shí)我們大聲喊話。

When you moved in, did you have to do a lot of work to the building?

問：你搬進(jìn)來時(shí)，對(duì)這座大樓進(jìn)行了很多改造嗎?

Yes. Wherever I go, I need to be — to feel I’m in a Versace place, and this didn’t look like a Versace place. It looked like a normal office for, you know, bankers. I need to surround myself with objects that remind me of something.

答：是的。不管走到哪兒，我都需要感覺自己處在一個(gè)范思哲空間。這個(gè)地方當(dāng)時(shí)看起來不像范思哲。它當(dāng)時(shí)看起來像個(gè)給銀行家用的普通辦公室。我需要讓自己周圍有很多能喚醒我的東西。

For example?

問：比如?

The picture on the left wall is a joyful moment, when we were all in Miami: me, my children and Gianni, and we were having fun, having breakfast next to the pool, and doing taekwondo all together, and Gianni is in the water with Allegra. Those are the moments I cherish in my life.

答：左邊墻上那幅照片讓我想起曾經(jīng)的快樂時(shí)光——當(dāng)時(shí)我們都在邁阿密：我、孩子們和詹尼。我們玩得很高興，在泳池邊吃早餐，一起練跆拳道。詹尼和阿萊格拉(Allegra)在水里。我特別珍惜生命中的這些時(shí)刻。

You’ve got three seating areas in your office: couches, a round table and a desk. Do they have different purposes?

問：你的辦公室有三個(gè)就座區(qū)：沙發(fā)、圓桌和書桌。它們有不同的用途嗎?

I often sit here on the couch when I visit with my friends or a few of my designer teams. We watch videos of shows here, usually to correct mistakes. Yesterday, we were all sitting on the floor here, and we watched the couture show in Paris. And I asked them, “What went wrong?” I have to challenge people and push people to tell me the truth. I put myself in the place of these people. They are afraid that I’m going to fire them. But I think you have to push forward and challenge yourself all the time. You have to be ready to say, “This is old, go forget and start again.” I like to discover mistakes, to make it better. I don’t think I’m that good. I think I can do much better.

答：我的朋友或設(shè)計(jì)團(tuán)隊(duì)里的幾個(gè)人來的時(shí)候，我們經(jīng)常坐在沙發(fā)上。我們?cè)谶@里觀看時(shí)裝秀的視頻，通常是為了改正錯(cuò)誤。昨天，我們坐在這里的地板上，觀看我們?cè)诎屠璧母呒?jí)定制時(shí)裝秀。我問他們：“哪里有問題?”我必須盤問他們，迫使他們說出實(shí)情。我把自己置于和他們一樣的位置。他們總是擔(dān)心我會(huì)解雇他們。但是我覺得你必須一直前進(jìn)，挑戰(zhàn)自己。你必須隨時(shí)說出：“這個(gè)太舊了，忘了它吧，重新開始。”我喜歡發(fā)現(xiàn)錯(cuò)誤，把它變得更好。我覺得自己不夠好。我覺得我能做得更好。

What mistake did you make?

問：你犯過什么錯(cuò)誤?

I saw two models walking badly, not because they cannot walk but because I chose the wrong fabric to embroider. It was too light for the embroidery, so it was a little bit tricky when they walked.

答：我曾經(jīng)看到兩個(gè)模特走得很難看，不是因?yàn)樗齻儾粫?huì)走秀，而是因?yàn)槲疫x錯(cuò)了刺繡的面料。那種面料太輕了，不適合刺繡，所以，模特走秀時(shí)有點(diǎn)別扭。

What happens at the round table?

問：圓桌是用來做什么的?

That table is scary. When I have to do a meeting with my C.E.O. or C.F.O. or some of the management team, and it’s a serious meeting, when I have something to say that they won’t like it, the most difficult things to resolve, what I think is not going well in the company, we sit around the table. So this table is wide, it’s gold, it’s very glamorous.

答：那張桌子很可怕。當(dāng)我不得不和首席執(zhí)行官、首席財(cái)務(wù)官或管理團(tuán)隊(duì)的一些人開會(huì)時(shí)，我們就會(huì)坐在那里。那些都是嚴(yán)肅會(huì)議，我會(huì)說一些他們不喜歡的話，討論最難解決的問題，以及我覺得公司存在的一些問題。所以這張桌子很大，它是金色的，非常棒。

And the desk?

問：那張書桌呢?

It’s me going on the website and seeing what happens. Me and the computer. I am a very impatient woman. I cannot sit for long. I have to move. You see me more often in the center when I’m up and pounding the floor in this room.

答：我上網(wǎng)看新聞時(shí)坐在那里。那里只有我和電腦。我很沒耐心，坐不住。我必須動(dòng)起來。你經(jīng)常能看見我在這個(gè)房間里蹦蹦跳跳。

Talk me through your day.

問：跟我談?wù)勀愕娜粘Ｉ畎伞?/strong>