冰雪上舞蹈 索契冬奧會之時尚風格

Let's talk for a moment about the Olympic style, because style always matters at the Olympics,in particular the Winter Olympics, which is full of judgy-judgy, interpretive sports. But stylecounts everywhere. Even if you don't think you're being judged, you're being judgy-judged.Trust me.

讓我們來談一談奧運會的“風格”。對奧運會來說，“風格”一直是個要緊問題。而對于裁判扮演重要角色、充斥著詮釋性體育項目的冬奧會來說，“風格”尤其重要。但“風格”并不僅限于賽場上，它出現(xiàn)在奧運會的各個角落。即便你以為自己不會受到關(guān)注，但是你的風格也在被周圍的人加以評論。相信我說的話。

A twist on Sochi style, of course, has been the weather, specifically the lack of cold, and howthis has impacted what people are wearing. Or rather, what they're not. The other day aslopestyle skier skied in a T-shirt! A T-shirt! If you overstuffed your bags expecting the WinterGames to be a frigid, fur-lined glamour-in-Aspen blast, shoving thermal underwear uponthermal underwear into a side pocket, you overprepared. Hats are almost unnecessary, exceptat night. Gloves are overkill. I would suggest donating mittens to be used as sweaters for areacats, but area cats don't need sweaters. Boots still have some purpose in the mountains, if onlyto trudge through the sunny mountain slush.

對于索契冬奧會的風格，一個令人糾結(jié)的地方自然是天氣問題，尤其是冬奧會舉行期間缺乏寒冷天氣，人們需要穿什么衣服，或者更準確的說，人們不需要穿什么衣服受到了很大影響。在前些天的花式滑雪比賽中，有一位參賽運動員竟然穿著T恤參加比賽!短袖T恤衫啊!如果你以為冬奧會舉辦地一定會像美國阿斯蓬(著名滑雪勝地)那般寒冷，人們都穿著毛皮襯里的冬服，所以往自己的行李中塞了太多的東西、裝進一件又一件保暖內(nèi)衣，那么你就大錯特錯了。在索契，戴帽子是沒有必要的，除了晚上。手套也沒什么用。我建議你還是把毛線手套捐給當?shù)氐男∝埉斆麓?，不過當?shù)氐呢堖湟膊恍枰馓住５?，靴子在山地還是有些用的，尤其是在陽光燦爛的日子里，長途跋涉于泥濘的雪地里時靴子還是有幫助的。

Still, some specific trends have emerged:

不過，還是有一些獨特的風尚在索契傳播開來。

Puffer jackets: It doesn't matter if you are an athlete or just an attendee, you are behind thecurve if you are not in Sochi with a super duper lightweight puffer jacket, which is theouterwear of choice here in both the coastal cluster and the mountain region. You have seenthese jackets. Lightweight puffer jackets are simply puffer jackets that have been stripped ofweighty frills, have smaller puff compartments and weigh as much as an issue of the NewRepublic. The best ones can be smooshed up into a compact ball and stuffed inside abackpack, or, better yet, another lightweight puffer jacket. This is something of a tweenerwinter fashion-it really works best with the temperature hovering between 45 and 55Fahrenheit-but it's perfect for Sochi.

羽絨服：不管你是運動員還是一般參與者，如果你在索契沒有一套超輕款羽絨，那你就落伍了。無論是在沿海場館地區(qū)，還是山地場館地區(qū)，超輕款羽絨服都是必備外套。這種外套并不是新生事物，它其實還是羽絨服，不過省去了厚重的部分，充絨隔間較小，整件外套的重量和一本新聞雜志差不多。質(zhì)量好的此種羽絨服可以壓扁卷成一個小球，然后裝進背包里，甚至是塞進另一件超輕款羽絨服中。雖然是冬季服裝，但是這種外套不太好歸類，因為它比較適用于氣溫位于7-13攝氏度左右的時候，不過這倒是十分適合索契的天氣。盡管這種羽絨服看上去不像索契奧運會志愿者制服那樣色彩迷幻、令人印象深刻。不過各式各款羽絨服卻在索契大方異彩，彼此爭艷。最為光滑的那些羽絨服豪不含蓄的在面料上打上出產(chǎn)國或公司的標志。美國國家隊的隊服由耐克公司(Nike)提供，這款超輕羽絨服呈金屬銀色。耐克也為美國全國廣播公司(NBC)提供了面料光滑的羽絨服。由于NBC在索契奧運會媒體中心“秘密”地開了一家內(nèi)部星巴克(Starbucks)，所以有傳言說耐克為NBC提供的羽絨服里面還暗藏了一個星冰樂(Frappucino)口袋。

Even if they're nowhere near as daring or memorable as the psychedelic Sochi volunteerjackets-the true style statement of these Games-there is great puffer pride here, acompetition within the competition. The slickest of puffers have their nation or companyname emblazoned somewhere prominently on the material. Nike NKE +0.27% has sewn thepuffers for the U.S. team, which come in metallic silver, chrome almost, giving the wearer theappearance of a bulging pan of Jiffy Pop. Nike also furnishes the slick puffer jackets for NBC,which, owing to the network's clandestine internal Starbucks in Sochi, are rumored to comewith hidden interior Secret Frappucino (SeFrapp) pockets.

冰球服：在冬奧會上，冰球是最受矚目的運動，上周六的俄美之戰(zhàn)更加精彩。美國男子冰球隊以3:2的比分在預賽中戰(zhàn)勝俄羅斯隊，實現(xiàn)了賽前造勢時的玩笑話。冰球服通常尺碼過大，根本就不合身，但冰球服是在真正觀看比賽的時候被冰球迷普遍接受的著裝(這一點和橄欖球賽衣不同)。在俄羅斯還能看到一些漂亮的老式冰球服，比如有幾個球迷穿著蘇聯(lián)隊服，也有幾個穿著美國隊服，一位球迷穿上了紅翼隊冰球服，還有一個黑鷹隊球迷穿著一件Ditka的球衣(沒錯，就是Ditka)。耐克設計的幾款美國隊服有些讓人失望，但周日對陣斯洛文尼亞(這個隊的隊服像是哈特福捕鯨者的隊服跟酸橙派的混搭)的時候，美國隊穿的懷舊款隊服則非常完美。

Hockey jerseys: Hockey is the It Sport at these games, and got kicked with a supercharge onSaturday when the U.S. men's team defeated Russia 3-2 in an epic preliminary throwdown thatsomehow lived up to the comical pregame hype. Oversized and not the slightest bit body-fitting, hockey jerseys are the most socially acceptable of jerseys for fans to wear to the actualgame (unlike football jerseys, which are deployed as a license for your dentist to behave like alunatic on Sundays).

在這一波新浪潮中，其他勝出者還包括：俄羅斯的隊服(老式、印有雙頭鷹標志，非常好看)、拉脫維亞的隊服(深紅色非常搶眼)和加拿大的隊服(簡潔、典雅、印著楓葉圖案)。最好看的大概要數(shù)斯洛伐克的隊服，他們把國歌橫著印在隊服上，形成了一道道橫條――洋基隊應該借用這一手法，把國歌歌詞換成工資數(shù)額和羅德里奎茲(Alex Rodriguez)的律師們的電話號碼就行了。

There are some beautiful oldies in sight here in Russia: some old CCCP, some old Team USA, aRed Wings Yzerman and a Blackhawks fan in a DITKA. (Yes, Ditka.) Nike took some grief forsome of its U.S. team jerseys, but the retro USA ones they busted out on Sunday versusSlovenia (who dressed like the Hartford Whalers mixed with Key lime pie) were perfect. The newwave has other real standouts: Russia's are old-fashioned, double-headed-eagled,spectacular; Latvia is rocking handsome crimson; Canada again keeps it simple, graceful,maple-leafed. The best are probably Slovakia's, which have the national anthem scrolling acrossin horizontal pinstripes-a gimmick the Yankees should borrow, substituting lyrics for payrollfigures and the telephone numbers of Alex Rodriguez's attorneys.

速滑服：到現(xiàn)在為止，你可能已經(jīng)聽說過了美國速滑隊的傷心故事。他們抱著極大的奪牌熱望來到索契，但在緊張的時尚危機中夢想破裂?！度A爾街日報》的記者Josh Robinson和Sara Germano在一系列黯淡無光的結(jié)果出爐后報道說，速滑隊員對他們的Under Armour隊服感到厭惡，據(jù)說，隊服是在火星上由生活在未來的機器人手工縫制的。

Skinsuits: By now you have probably heard about the style travails of the U.S. speedskatingteam, which arrived in Sochi with great medal ambitions, but has fallen apart amid an anxiousfashion crisis. The Journal's Josh Robinson and Sara Germano broke the news that after astring of lackluster results, the speed skaters were in revolt about their Under Armour skinsuits, which were allegedly handcrafted on Mars by robots living in the future. On Saturday, theteam went back to the old suits and...same lackluster performance. So was it the suits?Chaos abounds, but there's a suspicion the suit-roversy injured team confidence, so even ifthe old suit was helping, it was undermined by all the rumpus. This has led to a conversationabout the psychological benefits of style-if you are, in fact, what you wear-and you know thisis all leading up to U.S. speedskating suits in Pyeongchang 2018 designed by Tom Ford, who isprobably going to insist on cuff links, too.

上周六，速滑隊穿上了老款隊服，結(jié)果呢，成績還是一樣不盡人意。那么，這到底是是不是隊服的問題呢?雖然眾說紛紜，但有人懷疑，因隊服而起的爭議打擊了團隊的信心，所以，就算老款隊服能有所助益，也被這些口角完全抵消了。這還導致了一場有關(guān)著裝風格帶來的心理助益的對話――如果真是人靠衣衫馬靠鞍的話，那么你就會知道，這樣的對話將延續(xù)到2018年平昌冬奧會上湯姆?福特(Tom Ford)設計的美國速滑隊服上，估計他很可能也會堅持用袖扣。

Pants: Enough has already been said about curling pants and the curling pants craze, inparticular the daring curling pants of the Norwegian curling team, which everywhere else aresimply known as oh-look-it's-the-crazy-guy-at-a-barbecue pants. Pants in ice dancing are high-waisted, like Joaquin Phoenix and his buddies in 'Her.' Then there was Henrik Harlaut, theSwedish freestyle skier who enjoys skiing with Dirk Nowitzki's snowpants dangling from hisknees.

褲裝：有關(guān)冰壺運動員的褲裝以及人們對這種褲裝的狂熱，談論的已經(jīng)夠多了，特別是挪威冰壺隊大膽的褲裝，這種褲裝在世界任何其他地方都會被叫做“看吶那就是燒烤怪人穿的褲子”。冰上舞者穿的褲裝腰線很高，就像華金?菲尼克斯(Joaquin Phoenix)和他的伙伴們在電影《她》(Her)當中穿的那種褲子。還有亨里克?哈勞特(Henrik Harlaut)，這名瑞典自由滑雪運動員喜歡穿著諾維茨基(Dirk Nowitzki)式的長及膝蓋的褲子滑雪。

'It's part of my style,' Harlaut said.

哈勞特說，這是我個人風格的一部分。

Harmless fun. Everybody loves a pant-based sport. In Sochi, and the rest of the world. It's justa style truth.

這是無傷大雅的趣事。所有人都喜歡某種穿褲裝的運動。在索契，在全球其他地方都是如此。這就是冬奧會的時尚真相。

ppointing activists who say the decision is likely to force more refugees into deeper poverty.

香港最高法院周二拒絕給予香港難民工作權(quán)。這一決定令活動人士感到失望，他們表示，此決定可能導致更多難民變得更加貧困;香港的一些難民生活在類似貧民窟的環(huán)境中。

The financial capital's treatment of refugees has come under fierce criticism in recent years. Untila court ruling last year, Hong Kong refused to handle many asylum requests, effectivelyoutsourcing them to the local office of the U.N. High Commissioner for Refugees, which helpedrefugees find homes elsewhere. The city doesn't allow recognized refugees to permanentlysettle inside its borders, instead requiring them to seek homes overseas.

近年來，香港對待難民的方式受到猛烈抨擊。在去年法院作出相關(guān)判決之前，香港一直拒絕受理許多避難申請，實際上相當于把這些申請推給了駐香港的聯(lián)合國難民事務高級專員辦事處(U.N. High Commissioner forRefugees)。該辦事處幫助難民在其他地方尋找避難地。香港不允許被確定身份的難民在其境內(nèi)永久定居，而是要求他們到境外尋找避難地。

That process of resettlement can take a decade or more, and in the meantime, many refugeesand asylum-seekers live in squalid shacks dotting the city's periphery. Hong Kong technicallyallows refugees to work, but they must first seek approval from the immigration department,which rarely grants it, lawyers say. If they work without permission, they risk jail time.

這一重新安置過程可能耗時10年或更長時間。與此同時，許多難民和尋求避難的人都住在分散于香港周邊的簡陋棚屋中。律師說，從技術(shù)上講，香港允許難民工作，但他們必須首先獲得入境事務處的批準，但后者準許難民工作的情況十分罕見。如果難民在沒有獲準的情況下工作，他們可能被監(jiān)禁。

On Tuesday, Cosmo Beatson of refugee-advocacy group Vision First lambasted the court'sdecision, calling it 'massively disappointing.' Other developed nations, he notes, such as theU.S., grant refugees the right to work.

周二，難民權(quán)益維護組織Vision First的Cosmo Beatson嚴厲批評了法院的決定，稱該決定非常令人失望。他說，美國等其他發(fā)達國家都給予難民工作權(quán)。

'The right to work is a fundamental right,' he said. 'The fact that we've had refugees who'vebeen recognized 10 years ago and still can't work is absolutely outrageous.'

他說，工作權(quán)是基本的權(quán)利。香港有10年前就被確認身份的難民，但仍無法工作。這樣的情況讓人震驚。

Advocates say allowing refugees to work would have a limited impact on society, given thatthere are currently only around 100 recognized claimants in the city.

維權(quán)人士說，鑒于目前香港只有大約100名被確認身份的難民提出工作申請，允許難民工作對社會的影響有限。

In its ruling, Hong Kong's court unanimously dismissed the appeal of four applicants identifiedin the judgment by their initials. The applicants hail from Burundi, Sri Lanka and Pakistan andall resided in Hong Kong for around a decade without the ability to work.

香港法院一致裁定駁回四名申請人的上訴。這四人的名字在判決中以首字母的方式出現(xiàn)。這些申請人來自布隆迪、斯里蘭卡和巴基斯坦，且都是在沒有工作權(quán)的情況下在香港居住了大約10年。

According to Daly & Associates, the law firm representing them, three of the fourapplicants are suffering from major depression or schizophrenia because of both the terrorsthey have suffered in the past and as a consequence of their uncertain status in Hong Kong.

代表這些申請人的律師事務所Daly & Associates說，四名申請人中有三人都出現(xiàn)嚴重的抑郁和精神分裂，誘因包括他們過去受到的恐嚇以及他們在香港不確定的地位。

'This is not a case about 'immigrants' taking 'our jobs,'' said the firm's Mark Daly. 'It is a caseabout basic human dignity.'

該律所的戴利(Mark Daly)說：這無關(guān)于移民搶走我們工作機會的問題，這是關(guān)于人的基本尊嚴的問題。

Though three of the applicants can now work, Mr. Daly notes, they were given temporarypermission, which expires this year, only after filing their latest appeal with the court.

戴利指出，雖然四名申請人中有三人目前可以工作，但他們只是在提出最新上訴后才獲得了臨時許可，而臨時許可將在今年到期。

A spokesman for city's security bureau, meanwhile, said that it welcomed the court'sjudgment, adding that the government had 'been acting and will continue to act in accordancewith the law in a fair and reasonable manner.'

與此同時，香港保安局發(fā)言人說，對法院判決表示歡迎，并補充說，政府一直在行動，并將繼續(xù)根據(jù)法律采取公平合理的行動。