盡享奢華 用別具匠心的材料制造腕表

A new breed of watchmaker is breaking theindustry's mold of elegant-if-conservative designsby crafting timepieces out of unusual and exoticmaterials, including pieces of classic sports cars andparts of the Statue of Liberty.

鐘表行業(yè)“傳統(tǒng)即高雅”的設(shè)計(jì)理念正在被新一代鐘表商所顛覆，他們正在使用罕見(jiàn)且奇特的材料來(lái)打造鐘表，其中包括取自經(jīng)典跑車以及自由女神像的材料。

Take RJ Watches SA's Moon Orbiter, a watchinspired by the Apollo missions that took the firstmen to the moon. Each timepiece contains metalfrom the Apollo 11 spacecraft used by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin to get to the Sea ofTranquility in 1969.

讓我們以RJ Watches SA制造的Moon Orbiter腕表為例，這款腕表的靈感源自實(shí)現(xiàn)了人類首次登月的阿波羅登月計(jì)劃。每塊Moon Orbiter腕表都含有取自“阿波羅11號(hào)”(Apollo 11)宇宙飛船的金屬，1969年，尼爾·阿姆斯特朗(Neil Armstrong)和巴茲·奧爾德林(Buzz Aldrin)正是乘坐“阿波羅11號(hào)”宇宙飛船抵達(dá)寧?kù)o海(Seaof Tranquilit)的。

The Geneva-based watchmaker, commonly know as Romain Jerome, also secured moon dust atan auction, incorporating the extraterrestrial particles in the timepiece's dial.

這家總部位于日內(nèi)瓦的鐘表商為人所熟知的名字是羅曼·杰羅姆(Romain Jerome)，該公司還在一次拍賣中將月面塵埃收歸囊中，并在這款手表的表盤中用上了這些來(lái)自外太空的顆粒。

'We are offering our customers the opportunity to wear a piece of history,' Chief ExecutiveManuel Emch, said at the BaselWorld watch show, which is running this week. The company hasalso produced watches using metal from the ill-fated passenger liner Titanic and copperremoved from the Statue of Liberty when the New York statue was renovated for its 100thanniversary.

羅曼·杰羅姆的首席執(zhí)行長(zhǎng)曼紐爾·埃姆什(Manuel Emch)在本月舉辦的巴塞爾鐘表珠寶展(BaselWorld)上表示：“我們向消費(fèi)者提供的是佩戴歷史的機(jī)會(huì)。”羅曼·杰羅姆還曾以取自“泰坦尼克號(hào)”(Titanic)沉船上的金屬與紐約自由女神像上的銅件(百年慶典整修時(shí)被替換下來(lái)的)為原料制造過(guò)手表。

Romain Jerome's creations might be out of this world but the company's strategy isn't.Watchmakers are increasingly turning to unusual materials, including wood and gold-and-ceramic blends, to differentiate their products in an industry crowded with Swatch GroupAG's Omega and Longines lines and Compagnie Financière Richemont SA's Cartier and IWClines, as well as Rolex SA's eponymous brand.

羅曼·杰羅姆的腕表或許稱得上是世間極品，但是該公司的策略卻并非獨(dú)步天下。為了在行業(yè)中脫潁而出，在這個(gè)充斥著斯沃琪集團(tuán)(Swatch Group AG)生產(chǎn)的歐米茄(Omega)和浪琴(Longines)、歷峰集團(tuán)(CompagnieFinanciere Richemont SA)生產(chǎn)的卡地亞(Cartier)和萬(wàn)國(guó)(IWC)以及勞力士集團(tuán)(Rolex SA)生產(chǎn)的知名腕表的鐘表世界中，鐘表商越來(lái)越青睞與眾不同的材料，包括木材以及融合了黃金和陶瓷的新材質(zhì)。

Among the more wild efforts are a Richard Mille SA watch made entirely of sapphire, that sellsfor a cool $1.8 million, and the $55 million Hallucination wristwatch created by British jewelerGraff that contains more than 100 carats of diamonds.

其中登峰造極的兩款作品要屬理查德·米勒(Richard Mille SA)打造的全藍(lán)寶石腕表和英國(guó)珠寶商格拉夫(Graff)打造的鑲嵌有超過(guò)100克拉 石的Hallucination腕表了。前者的售價(jià)為180萬(wàn)美元(約合人民幣1,120萬(wàn)元)，后者的售價(jià)為5,500萬(wàn)美元(約合人民幣3.4億元)。

Scalfaro Watch & Jewellery's GmbH Co. & KG timepieces appeal to both watch andautomobile enthusiasts by incorporating parts of some of motoring's most storied cars. Thecompany, based in Neuhausen, Germany, has melted down parts of a Mercedes-Benz 300 SLGullwing and a Porsche 917 to make its limited-edition watches. The parts are often donatedby owners--material from a Ferrari 250 GTO owned by Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason wasturned into luxury watches.

Scalfaro Watch & Jewellery制造的GmbH Co. & KG腕表吸引了腕表愛(ài)好者和汽車愛(ài)好者的目光，因?yàn)闅v史上最具傳奇色彩的一些汽車的配件被融合進(jìn)了這款腕表的制作材料中。這家總部位于德國(guó)諾伊豪森(Neuhausen)的公司將一輛梅賽德斯-奔馳(Mercedes-Benz) 300 SL Gullwing和一輛保時(shí)捷(Porsche) 917的零件融化后制成了限量款腕表。用以制表的汽車零件往往是車主捐獻(xiàn)的——平克·弗洛伊德(Pink Floyd)樂(lè)隊(duì)的鼓手尼克·馬森(Nick Mason)捐獻(xiàn)的一輛法拉利(Ferrari)250 GTO就被用于打造奢華腕表。

The company, whose watches cost from between EUR4,000 and EUR10,000 ($5,500-$13,800),works with the engineers who designed the cars. 'For our customers it is a way of expressingtheir passion for the car,' said company co-founder Alexander Kuhnle, 'Our watches tell astory. They contain the DNA of the cars and their engineers.'

Scalfaro與參與上述汽車設(shè)計(jì)的工程師展開(kāi)了合作，該品牌腕表的售價(jià)從4,000歐元至10,000歐元不等(約合人民幣34,500元至人民幣86,200元)。該公司的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人亞歷山大·庫(kù)恩勒(Alexander Kuhnle)表示：“對(duì)我們的顧客來(lái)說(shuō)，這是他們表達(dá)自己對(duì)汽車的熱情的方式。我們的腕表會(huì)講故事。在它們身上蘊(yùn)含著這些汽車與打造這些汽車的工程師的DNA。”

Some watchmakers take a more natural approach. Italy's Lowell srl uses mahogany, pine anda host of other woods to make what it calls environmentally friendly watches that cost betweenEUR300 and EUR400. The company uses plastic from recycled bottles for the straps, it buildsthe cases out of wood from a furniture factory.

一些鐘表商在材料選取上更加追求自然。意大利鐘表商Lowell Srl選用了桃花心木、松木以及多種其他木材制成了該公司所稱的環(huán)保型手表，這些手表的售價(jià)為300歐元至400歐元(約合人民幣2590元至人民幣3450元)。該公司選用塑料瓶回收制成的塑料作為腕表表帶的材料，并用來(lái)自一家家具廠的木料做成了腕表的表盒。

'Stainless steel watches are everywhere,' said Andrea Rovatti, the marketing director. 'Notmany people make wooden watches.'

Lowell Srl的營(yíng)銷總監(jiān)安德里亞·羅瓦提(Andrea Rovatti)稱：“不銹鋼表比比皆是。制作木表的商家可不多。”

Hublot, owned by France's LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, is creating new materials todistinguish its wristwatches from the pack.

法國(guó)酩悅·軒尼詩(shī)-路易·威登集團(tuán)(LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA)旗下的品牌宇舶(Hublot)正在打造能夠使自己的腕表與眾不同的新材料。

Its Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold, which costs nearly 32,000 Swiss francs ($36,000), uses ablend of ceramic and 24-carat gold, an amalgam that carries gold's luster but is resistant toscratches. The company also launched a 150,000-franc watch earlier this year with a dial madefrom osmium, an extremely shiny metal from the same family as platinum.

宇舶的Big Bang法拉利魔力金表(Ferrari Magic Gold)采用了陶瓷與24K金的復(fù)合材料，這種材質(zhì)不僅能夠彰顯出黃金的奢華，還具有防刮特性。這款腕表的售價(jià)接近32,000瑞士法郎(約合人民幣226,000元)。今年早些時(shí)候，宇舶還推出了一款售價(jià)為150,000瑞士法郎(約合人民幣106萬(wàn)元)的鋨表盤腕表，鋨屬于鉑族金屬，顏色極其絢麗。

'We don't want to repeat the past,' said Chief Executive Ricardo Guadalupe. 'We want to makethe watches of today with technology that didn't exist before.'

宇舶首席執(zhí)行長(zhǎng)里卡多·瓜達(dá)盧佩(Ricardo Guadalupe)表示：“我們不愿復(fù)制歷史。我們希望用前所未有的科技來(lái)打造今天的腕表。”