疫情可能會永遠終結(jié)正裝文化

Kiss your sharply-tailored menswear, your sheath dresses and high heels goodbye.

和貼身剪裁的男裝、緊身連衣裙和高跟鞋說再見吧。

The new work-from-home reality has rapidly recalibrated the fashion code for professional wear, and that spells trouble for the retailers who sell formal office clothing.

在家工作的新現(xiàn)實已經(jīng)迅速對職業(yè)裝的時尚密碼進行了重新調(diào)整，而這對于出售辦公室正裝的零售企業(yè)則意味著麻煩。

On July 8, Brooks Brothers, the 202-year-old menswear retailer that has dressed 40 US presidents and is synonymous with the classic Wall Street banker look, filed for bankruptcy as demand for suits plummeted amid the pandemic.

疫情期間隨著西裝需求量劇減，7月8日擁有202年歷史的男裝零售企業(yè)布魯克斯兄弟申請破產(chǎn)。布魯克斯兄弟曾經(jīng)為40位美國總統(tǒng)提供服裝，是華爾街銀行家經(jīng)典裝扮的代名詞。

Meanwhile, Ascena Retail Group, which owns Ann Taylor and Lane Bryant apparel chains, told Bloomberg it's weighing all options to stay afloat after its business was hit hard by a pullback in clothing purchases, including officewear. Ascena is reportedly planning to shut at least 1,200 stores. It has 2,800 locations in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico.

與此同時，擁有安·泰勒和萊恩·布賴恩特連鎖服飾品牌的Ascena零售集團告訴彭博社說，在包括辦公裝在內(nèi)的服裝銷售遭遇需求量減少的沖擊后，集團正在權(quán)衡能免于虧損的所有選項。據(jù)稱Ascena正計劃關(guān)閉至少1200家門店。該集團在美國、加拿大和波多黎各有2800家門店。

The turbulence has ensnared Men's Wearhouse, too. With more than 10 million men who've lost their jobs and millions more working from home in recent months, buying a suit is hardly a priority. Tailored Brands, which owns Men's Wearhouse, could be another retailer in the space mulling bankruptcy.

Men's Wearhouse品牌也難逃此劫。近幾個月來逾千萬男性失業(yè)，還有數(shù)百萬男性在家工作，沒有人著急買西裝。擁有Men's Wearhouse品牌的服裝零售商Tailored Brands也正在考慮申請破產(chǎn)。

With more work calls and team meetings now taking place from the comfort of home, office wear has become decidedly more relaxed. It's a shift that's been occurring for years.

如今隨著更多的工作電話和團隊會議在舒適的家中進行，辦公裝已經(jīng)明顯變得更加休閑化。這一變化從幾年前就開始了。

The pandemic may have ended formality forever.

疫情可能會永遠終結(jié)正裝文化。

 

 

"The reality is that workwear trends have been shifting for a while now and sadly the pandemic was the final nail in the coffin," said Jessica Cadmus, a New York-based stylist whose clients mostly work in the finance industry.

紐約造型師杰西卡·卡德摩斯說：“事實上，工作裝潮流發(fā)生改變已經(jīng)有一段時間了，可悲的是，疫情成為了壓死駱駝的最后一根稻草。”她的客戶大多在金融行業(yè)工作。

Even prior to the national shutdown, Cadmus said her clients were gravitating to a more relaxed work look. "There was an enormous shift taking place towards business casual," she said.

卡德摩斯指出，甚至在全國封鎖之前，她的客戶已經(jīng)開始轉(zhuǎn)向更休閑的工作裝。她說：“商務休閑裝的風格正在發(fā)生巨變。”

Last year, Goldman Sachs announced that its employees could start dressing down for the office. The Wall Street firm has historically favored collared shirts and suits.

去年，高盛集團宣布，員工可以在辦公室內(nèi)著便裝。歷史上，這家華爾街公司一直偏好有領(lǐng)襯衫和西裝。

"Then when Covid-19 hit and people were forced to work from home, there was an absolute halt in buying formal workwear," said Cadmus. "The emphasis from my clients now is on polished loungewear, where the fit is not as tailored and comfort is key."

卡德摩斯說：“當新冠疫情來襲，人們被迫在家工作后，突然就沒有人購買正裝了。現(xiàn)在我的客戶看重的是優(yōu)雅的家居服，無需貼身剪裁，舒適才是關(guān)鍵。”

Her male clients, she said, are looking for new shirts but not trousers. "They are not asking about sports coats, suits, or shoes. It's just shirts," she said. Women want statement necklaces, earrings and broaches instead of suits and dresses for a more put together look for video calls.

她指出，她的男性客戶想購買新襯衫但不想買新褲子。她說：“他們不關(guān)心休閑外套、西服或鞋。他們只想買襯衫。女性客戶想要的是能在視頻會議上展示的醒目的項鏈、耳環(huán)和胸針而不是套裝和裙子。”

Some people aren't even changing out of their pajamas. In June, 47% of consumers told market research firm NPD they are wearing the same clothes throughout most of their day while at home during the pandemic, and nearly a quarter said they liked wearing activewear, sleepwear, or loungewear most of the day.

有些人甚至一直穿著睡衣。六月份，47%的消費者告訴市場調(diào)研公司NPD集團稱，疫情期間他們一天中的大部分時間都在家穿著同樣的衣服;近四分之一的人表示，他們喜歡從早到晚地穿運動服、睡衣褲或家居服。