被冠狀病毒封鎖的羅馬生活是什么樣子
It has been less than a week since, along with 60 million Italians, I was put under a government-ordered quarantine to try to curb the spread of Italy's coronavirus outbreak, the worst outside Asia. The new slogan is #iostoacasa — I'm staying home.
不到一個星期前,我和6000萬意大利人一起被政府下令隔離,以遏制意大利冠狀病毒疫情的蔓延,這是亞洲以外最嚴重的疫情。新的口號是“我呆在家里”。
Overnight, life across the country has been turned upside down. I'm constantly wary. Of what? Who knows. Something is lurking around me and I don't know what it is. I wash my hands constantly — but I haven't been out all day and haven't seen anyone.
一夜之間,整個國家的生活發(fā)生了翻天覆地的變化。我總是小心翼翼。為什么?誰知道呢。有什么東西在我周圍潛伏著,我不知道它是什么。我經(jīng)常洗手,但我一整天都沒出門,也沒見過任何人。
Life in Italy's COVID-19 red zone is like being suspended between the Dark Ages and a sci-fi future.
生活在意大利的COVID-19紅色區(qū)域就像是懸浮在黑暗時代和科幻未來之間。
Here in Rome, all of a sudden the city's usual chaotic, horn-honking soundtrack has been transformed. With hardly any traffic, you can actually hear the squeak of rusty door hinges. The chirping of birds, an early sign of spring, is almost too loud.
在羅馬,突然之間,這個城市通?;靵y的喇叭聲被改變了。幾乎沒有車輛,你甚至可以聽到生銹的門鉸鏈發(fā)出的吱吱聲。鳥兒的啁啾聲,春天的先兆,幾乎太吵了。
The lockdown measures are strictly enforced. All restaurants, cafes, pubs, retail stores, cinemas, theaters, museums — you name it — are shut down until at least March 25. The only exceptions are grocery stores, pharmacies and newsstands. The government wants to ensure all citizens have access to information, and many older Italians still prefer newsprint to small screens.
封鎖措施得到嚴格執(zhí)行。所有的餐館、咖啡館、酒吧、零售商店、電影院、劇院、博物館,凡是你能想到的,都至少要關閉到3月25日。唯一的例外是雜貨店、藥房和報攤。政府希望確保所有公民都能獲得信息,而許多年長的意大利人仍然更喜歡報紙而不是小屏幕。
Everyone who ventures out has to carry a police form, downloadable from the Ministry of Interior website, in which you have to "self-certify" why you are out. The only purposes allowed are shopping for food and medicines, health reasons, emergencies, work or returning home. Violators face three months in jail or a fine of about $230.
每個外出的人都必須攜帶一份可從內(nèi)政部網(wǎng)站下載的警方表格,在這份表格中,你必須“自我證明”你外出的原因。唯一允許的用途是購買食品和藥品,健康原因,緊急情況,工作或回家。違反者將面臨三個月的監(jiān)禁或約230美元的罰款。
I live in Trastevere, in the heart of old Rome, not far from Piazza Trilussa. The square is known for its lively nightlife.
我住在舊羅馬中心的特拉斯提弗列,離特呂魯薩廣場不遠。廣場以其熱鬧的夜生活而聞名。
Not anymore. Every single storefront is shuttered. The only sound is the waterfall in the large fountain that dominates the square.
現(xiàn)在不是了。每一家店面都關了門。唯一的聲音是廣場上的大噴泉里的瀑布聲。
In fact, some polls have indicated that more than 60% of Italians approve of the government lockdown decision.
事實上,一些民意調(diào)查顯示,超過60%的意大利人贊成政府鎖定的決定。
As I continue to meander through my neighborhood, it seems the only inhabitants these days, along with birds, are cats and ghosts. Walking on these centuries-old cobblestones, it's hard not to think they've seen this before. It was here, along the Tiber River, that a plague broke out in 1656 that claimed more than 14.000 lives.
當我繼續(xù)在附近閑逛的時候,這些天來,除了鳥以外,似乎只有貓和鬼魂住在這里。走在這些有幾百年歷史的鵝卵石上,很難想象它們以前沒有見過這樣的景象。1656年,正是在這里,沿著臺伯河,一場瘟疫爆發(fā),奪去了14000多人的生命。
In normal times, visitors to Rome tell me how struck they are by the near absence of police and the abundance of priests. Suddenly, the priests have disappeared and cops are everywhere — roaming streets, making random checks that people are carrying their "self-certification" form.
在正常情況下,去羅馬的游客會告訴我,他們對羅馬幾乎沒有警察、神父眾多感到多么震驚。突然之間,神父消失了,警察到處都是,他們在街道上巡邏,隨機檢查人們是否攜帶了他們的“自我證明”表格。
While churchgoers may be consoled with the chiming of bells, more secular Italians have found a different way to exorcise the coronavirus demon. Many homes display banners with pictures of rainbows and the words of another new slogan, andrà tutto bene — everything will be OK.
去教堂做禮拜的人聽到鐘聲可能會感到安慰,但世俗的意大利人找到了一種不同的方法來驅(qū)除冠狀病毒。許多家庭都掛起了彩虹圖案的橫幅,上面寫著另一個新口號:安德拉·圖托·貝尼,一切都會好起來的。
And there's been an eruption of musical flash mobs from windows and balconies, as neighbors join in song — the national anthem, pop.
窗戶和陽臺上出現(xiàn)了音樂快閃族,鄰居們一起唱起了國歌、流行歌曲。
Even if homebound, Italians are reacting — at least so far — with a characteristic sense of humor, brio and musical flair.
即使是在家里,意大利人的反應是一種典型的幽默感、活力和音樂天賦,至少到目前為止是這樣的。