這個(gè)小村有“中國(guó)比較好的浪”，但“山竹”把它毀了

XICHONG, China — One of the world’s largest population centers was spared the worst when Typhoon Mangkhut swept through Hong Kong and the cities of the Pearl River Delta four days ago, but not this village in a remote peninsula that has become a destination for something still novel in China: surfing.

中國(guó)西涌——四天前，當(dāng)臺(tái)風(fēng)“山竹”席卷香港和珠江三角洲眾多城市時(shí)，這個(gè)世界上最大的人口中心之一躲過(guò)了最嚴(yán)重的部分;然而一個(gè)偏遠(yuǎn)半島上的小村子沒(méi)能幸免。那里是一項(xiàng)在中國(guó)尚屬新奇的運(yùn)動(dòng)——沖浪——的目的地。

When the storm hit the village, called Xichong, it created sea surges that dismantled sea walls upon which dozens of small shops, cafes and guest cottages stood. Wind gusts that reached 100 miles per hour shredded scores of coniferous trees that studded the scenic, crescent-shaped cove facing the South China Sea.

風(fēng)暴襲擊這個(gè)名為西涌的村莊時(shí)掀起了巨浪，摧毀了建在海堤上的幾十家小商店、咖啡館和民宿。風(fēng)速達(dá)到每小時(shí)100英里，將許多針葉樹(shù)撕成粉碎。那些樹(shù)曾經(jīng)裝點(diǎn)著一個(gè)面朝南海的月牙形美麗海灣。

A brick guardhouse where loudspeakers once warned surfers of dangerous conditions had toppled onto the beach from a bank overlooking the sea, still intact but its foundation washed away. A large chunk of pink wall — neon hues being the color of choice here — was hurled back to where the surf breaks on the beach, a reminder of the awesome power of a turbulent sea.

一座磚砌的崗?fù)ぴ疚挥诘贪渡希ㄟ^(guò)一個(gè)喇叭向沖浪者發(fā)出危險(xiǎn)情況警報(bào)，如今它已經(jīng)掉落到海灘上，房子仍然完好無(wú)損，但地基被沖走了。一大塊粉紅色的墻壁——霓虹色是這里的首選色調(diào)——被拋回到浪打在沙灘上的地方，提醒著人們洶涌澎湃的大海的驚人力量。

In a matter of hours, the typhoon destroyed a beachfront repurposed in recent years as a laid-back retreat from the urban bustle of Shenzhen, a center of global trade, investment and technology with 13 million residents.

在短短幾小時(shí)內(nèi)，臺(tái)風(fēng)摧毀了一片海灘區(qū)域。這一帶靠近深圳的城市喧囂，近年來(lái)被作為悠閑的休養(yǎng)地來(lái)重新規(guī)劃。深圳是全球貿(mào)易、投資和科技中心，擁有1300萬(wàn)居民。

“Too horrible to look at,” said Xia Bing, who owns concessions along a section of the beach that until Sunday included a cafe called Brother, changing facilities for swimmers and surfers, and a handful of bungalows for overnight guests — all now a twisted mangle of debris and broken branches. Accessories like air-conditioners and a television simply disappeared.

“慘不忍睹，”夏冰說(shuō)。他在海灘的一段區(qū)域擁有經(jīng)營(yíng)特許。在周日以前，他的經(jīng)營(yíng)范圍包括一家名為“兄弟”的咖啡館，為游泳和沖浪者提供的更衣設(shè)施，以及為過(guò)夜客人準(zhǔn)備的幾間平房——現(xiàn)在這些全都變成了扭曲、損毀的的廢墟和折斷的樹(shù)枝。像空調(diào)和電視這樣的配件干脆消失了。

“It was like this when we got back,” he said. “Nothing left.”

“回來(lái)就是這樣，”他說(shuō)。“什么都沒(méi)有了。”

Typhoon Mangkhut cut a far more catastrophic swath through the Philippines, where scores were killed in floods and landslides, but it also exacted a considerable toll in China. The storm hammered Hong Kong and Macau on Sunday morning, before moving into the mainland, where at least five people were killed, according to latest government figures cited by the state-run news agency Xinhua on Tuesday. One person is still missing.

臺(tái)風(fēng)“山竹”在菲律賓造成的災(zāi)難要嚴(yán)重得多，數(shù)十人在洪水和山體滑坡中喪生。但中國(guó)的損失也不小。據(jù)中國(guó)官方媒體新華社周二援引的政府最新數(shù)據(jù)，臺(tái)風(fēng)周日上午襲擊了香港和澳門(mén)，隨后進(jìn)入中國(guó)內(nèi)地，造成至少5人死亡。一人至今失蹤。

In Shenzhen, which abuts Hong Kong, nearly 12,000 trees were knocked over in the city, according to municipal officials, and workers continued to clear roads and highways in the days following.

在毗鄰香港的深圳，據(jù)市政官員稱，該市有近1.2萬(wàn)棵樹(shù)被吹倒，工人們?cè)诮酉聛?lái)的幾天里繼續(xù)清理道路和高速公路。

The recovery in Xichong — a two-hour drive east from Shenzhen’s city center, when fallen limbs have not blocked the roads — could take far longer.

在落下的樹(shù)枝沒(méi)有阻塞道路時(shí)，西涌距深圳市中心有兩小時(shí)車程，這里的重建工作可能要慢得多。

Xichong lies within a national park at the end of the Dapeng Peninsula, which extends into the South China Sea. The area’s remoteness and natural beauty are what began luring surfers and backpackers. Now, the beach is divided into four sections, all owned by the Xichong Beach Company, a private enterprise created to capitalize on a growing tourist market.

西涌位于伸入南海的大鵬半島盡頭的一座國(guó)家公園內(nèi)。這一帶的偏遠(yuǎn)和自然美景吸引了沖浪者和背包客。海灘現(xiàn)被分成四個(gè)部分，全部歸西涌海灘股份有限公司所有。這是一家希望在此地不斷增長(zhǎng)的旅游市場(chǎng)中牟利而成立的私營(yíng)公司。

Surfing culture is still relatively new to China, but has begun to win adherents. Hainan, the island southwest of here that is known as the Chinese Hawaii, is the undisputed capital of Chinese surfing, with beaches like those at Riyue Bay hosting international competitions.

沖浪文化在中國(guó)還相對(duì)較新，但已經(jīng)開(kāi)始贏得追隨者。位于深圳西南部、被稱為“中國(guó)夏威夷”的海南是無(wú)可爭(zhēng)議的中國(guó)沖浪之都，那里擁有日月灣之類舉辦過(guò)國(guó)際比賽的地方。

The surfing guide Magic Seaweed notes that in Guangdong Province, where Xichong is, “spots are few and far between,” but it goes on to explain that at Xichong and another beach nearby “good longboard waves peel lazily down some rivermouth sculpted sandbars.”

沖浪指南《神奇海草》(Magic Seaweed)指出，在西涌所在的廣東省，“沖浪點(diǎn)很少，且相隔較遠(yuǎn)。”但這本指南接著說(shuō)，在西涌和附近的另一個(gè)海灘，“那些河口沖擊而成的沙洲上會(huì)緩緩卷起不錯(cuò)的長(zhǎng)板浪。”

Yang Xue, 28, owns a surfing school and hostel in Xichong called Offshore Wind. Admittedly biased, she said that in the summer the beach had “the best waves in China.” The accommodations at Offshore Wind were not luxurious, though that is not what attracts people to Xichong.

28歲的楊雪在西涌擁有一所沖浪學(xué)校，和一家名叫“離岸風(fēng)”的青年旅社。她承認(rèn)自己有偏見(jiàn)，但她認(rèn)為這里的海灘在夏天有“中國(guó)最好的浪”。離岸風(fēng)的住宿條件并不豪華，盡管這并不是吸引人們?nèi)ノ饔康脑颉?/p>

“The surf community in China is still really small,” a surfer who identified himself only as Jun wrote on Vice China, describing how he came to take up residence in Xichong. “It’s so small that every time I meet a new surfer, it turns out we already have, like, 20 to 30 mutual friends. That helps it feel like a real community. No one is aggressive in the water.”

“浪人目前還算是一個(gè)很小的族群”，一位自稱叫“君”(音)的沖浪者在Vice中國(guó)上描述他是如何來(lái)到西涌定居的。“小到每次加個(gè)微信都能發(fā)現(xiàn)二三十個(gè)共同好友。這讓它感覺(jué)像是一個(gè)真正的社區(qū)。浪人是沒(méi)什么競(jìng)爭(zhēng)意識(shí)的一個(gè)族群。”

He compared the mood here with Shenzhen, where “people are constantly overstimulated, staring at their phones on the subway, craning their necks downward to watch some imported soap opera.”

他把這里的氣氛和深圳作比較。在深圳，“人們總是受到過(guò)度刺激，在地鐵上盯著手機(jī)，低頭看一些進(jìn)口肥皂劇。”

Ms. Yang employed 20 people. Many of them gathered again on Tuesday to help begin the arduous task of clearing debris. Chain saws buzzed through fallen limbs and trees, but repairing the damage to some of the buildings and the sea wall will be more difficult and expensive.

楊雪有20名員工。他們中許多人周二再次聚在一起，幫助開(kāi)始清理廢墟的艱巨任務(wù)。鏈鋸在倒下的樹(shù)枝和樹(shù)木間嗡嗡作響，但修復(fù)對(duì)一些建筑和海堤的破壞將更加困難和昂貴。

Most of those helping Tuesday were dressed for surfing — T-shirts and flip-flops — and the damp on their clothes made it clear that some had recently taken breaks from their work. Adversity had not seemed to affect the spirit of the place.

周二參加救援的大多數(shù)人都穿著去沖浪的衣服——T恤和人字拖——衣服的潮濕表明，一些人剛剛忙里偷閑去玩了一會(huì)。逆境似乎并沒(méi)有影響這個(gè)地方的精神。

“It’s O.K.,” Ms. Yang said when offered condolences for the damage. “We are still here.”

“沒(méi)事的，”當(dāng)有人向她遭到的損失表示慰問(wèn)時(shí)，楊雪說(shuō)，“我們還在這里。”

The damage extended the length of the beach, which remains closed to visitors, though locals still waded in and two fishermen’s boats came ashore as the sun set Tuesday, hauling a decent catch, including two large sea bass.

這次破壞延長(zhǎng)了海灘的長(zhǎng)度。海灘尚未對(duì)游客開(kāi)放，但仍有當(dāng)?shù)鼐用裆虾?。周二日落時(shí)，兩艘漁船上岸，他們捕獲了相當(dāng)多的魚(yú)，其中包括兩條巨大的海鱸魚(yú)。

The shops here had no insurance, Ms. Yang and other owners said, so they are relying for assistance on the company that operates the beach concession or the local government.

楊雪和其他業(yè)主說(shuō)，這里的商店沒(méi)有保險(xiǎn)，所以他們依賴經(jīng)營(yíng)海灘特許權(quán)的公司或當(dāng)?shù)卣膸椭?/p>

Echo Huo, a worker at a new surf shop, moved here in April because she wanted to learn to surf. She previously worked at a cafe in Dali, far inland in Yunnan Province. She does not take lessons, but paddles out when off work. More seasoned surfers generously offer pointers.

在一家新開(kāi)的沖浪店工作的艾蔻·霍(音)因?yàn)橄雽W(xué)沖浪，今年4月搬到這里。她曾在大理的一家咖啡館工作過(guò)，那是在內(nèi)陸的云南省的一座城市。她不上課，只是不上班時(shí)劃水出海。經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富的沖浪者會(huì)慷慨地為她提供指點(diǎn)。

Winds sheared off the shop’s corrugated roof, which in turn sliced into a neighboring shop. The exterior wall disappeared, leaving a precipitous drop from the bank to the sand below. Everything in and around the shop was virtually destroyed.

商店的波形板屋頂被吹飛，插進(jìn)了隔壁的店面。外墻消失了，房子危險(xiǎn)地懸在海堤邊，俯瞰下方的沙灘。商店內(nèi)外的一切幾乎都被摧毀了。

China’s building codes and zoning laws are often so vaguely written and loosely enforced that they can cause confusion in the best of times. No one in the storm’s aftermath could say for certain whether the spot would — or could — be rebuilt the way it had been.

中國(guó)的建筑規(guī)章和分區(qū)法律往往寫(xiě)得含糊不清，執(zhí)行不力，在平常的時(shí)候都可能會(huì)造成困惑。颶風(fēng)過(guò)后，沒(méi)有人能確切地說(shuō)，這個(gè)地方會(huì)不會(huì)——或能不能——重建成以前的樣子。

“We don’t know if they will let us rebuild or not,” she said. “We haven’t received any official notice from the company or the government yet.”

“我們不知道他們是否會(huì)讓我們重建。我們還沒(méi)有收到公司或政府的正式通知，”她說(shuō)。

Asked what she would do in the meantime, she shrugged, while making it clear she had no plans to leave. “We wait,” she said.

當(dāng)被問(wèn)及在此期間她會(huì)做什么時(shí)，她聳了聳肩，同時(shí)明確表示她不打算離開(kāi)。“我們等著，”她說(shuō)。