梅拉尼婭為什么穿上白色套裝

It took the State of the Union to get her in a state of quasi-support. On Tuesday night Melania Trump finally appeared in public alongside her husband (or at least in the same very large room, though they apparently arrived separately) for the first time since the public allegations that President Trump had conducted, just weeks after Mrs. Trump had given birth to the couple’s son, an affair with the porn star Stormy Daniels.

要到國情咨文發(fā)布會這樣的大事才能讓她表現(xiàn)出近似支持的姿態(tài)。周二晚間，梅拉妮婭·特朗普(Melania Trump)終于在一段時間以來首次同丈夫一起公開亮相(或者至少是在同一個非常大的房間里，盡管他們顯然是先后到達(dá)的)。此前，特朗普總統(tǒng)被公開指控在梅拉妮婭生下他們的兒子僅數(shù)周后，便與色情片明星斯托米·丹尼爾斯(Stormy Daniels)發(fā)生婚外情。

That Mrs. Trump did so in a white pantsuit with a glowing white blouse — exactly the kind of outfit that became a symbol of her husband’s rival, Hillary Clinton, during the last election, and has since become widely accepted as sartorial shorthand for both the suffragists and contemporary women’s empowerment and something of an anti-Trump uniform, and also what the women gathered behind Kesha wore to display their sisterhood at Sunday’s Grammy Awards — seemed to be about as subtle a slap in the face as could be contained in a garment.

當(dāng)晚，特朗普夫人身穿白色褲套裝，搭配閃亮的白色上衣——這身行頭正是她丈夫的對手希拉里·克林頓(Hillary Clinton)在上次選舉中的標(biāo)志性形象，后來被廣泛認(rèn)為是女性參政支持者和當(dāng)代女性權(quán)力支持者的服裝象征，也多少成為反特朗普的制服，在周日的格萊美頒獎禮(Grammy Awards)上，聚集在凱莎(Kesha)身后展示姐妹情誼的女性穿的也都是一身白衣——從服裝所能傳達(dá)的訊息角度講，這幾乎相當(dāng)于微妙地扇了特朗普一個耳光。

She was playing her part, applauding and smiling with the special invited guests whose stories were mentioned in the president’s speech, but she wasn’t doing it entirely as scripted.

她在扮演自己的角色，與總統(tǒng)演講中提到的特邀嘉賓一起鼓掌、微笑，但她并沒有完全照本宣科。

Of course, it’s possible Mrs. Trump chose the suit, an ivory Christian Dior style with cropped trousers and curvaceous jacket, to stand out against the sea of black worn by the Democratic Women’s Working Group and its supporters, following the donning of black at the Golden Globes in honor of Time’s Up and #MeToo. (Though many of those same women wore white to her husband’s first address to a joint session of Congress last year.)

當(dāng)然，特朗普夫人選擇這套服裝——象牙色迪奧(Christian Dior)七分褲和具有曲線美的上衣——也可能是為了與民主黨女性工作組(Democratic Women’s Working Group)及其支持者區(qū)分開來，她們追隨的是金球獎(Golden Globes)為支持Time’s Up和#MeToo運動而倡議的全黑造型(盡管去年這些女性中的很多人在梅拉妮婭的丈夫第一次向國會聯(lián)席會議演講時身穿白色服裝)。

It’s possible Mrs. Trump did it to show solidarity with the female members of the G.O.P., who had been urged to wear patriotic red, white and blue, as were the members of the Cabinet. Many of the men sported ties that matched the blue ones worn by the president and Speaker Paul D. Ryan, and the red one on Vice President Mike Pence.

特朗普夫人的穿著也可能是為了顯示自己與共和黨女性成員的團(tuán)結(jié)，她們被鼓勵穿著表達(dá)愛國情結(jié)的紅、白、藍(lán)三色服裝，內(nèi)閣成員也是如此。許多人佩戴的領(lǐng)帶與總統(tǒng)和議長保羅·D·瑞安(Paul D. Ryan)的藍(lán)色領(lǐng)帶以及副總統(tǒng)邁克·彭斯(Mike Pence)的紅色領(lǐng)帶相呼應(yīng)。

It’s possible she just liked the color, and what it symbolizes about new beginnings (also, of course, purity, but that takes us back to the idea something else might be going on). It’s possible she had no idea that Maria Grazia Chiuri, the artistic director of Christian Dior, made waves in her first collection with a best-selling T-shirt announcing “we should all be feminists.”

也有可能她只是喜歡這個顏色，它象征著新的開始(當(dāng)然，它也象征純潔，但這會讓我們想起其他事情可能正在發(fā)生)。她可能不知道，迪奧的藝術(shù)總監(jiān)瑪麗亞·格拉齊亞·基烏里(Maria Grazia Chiuri)曾通過自己第一個系列中的熱銷T恤掀起一股熱潮，T恤上寫著：“我們都應(yīng)該成為女權(quán)主義者。”

It’s possible.

這是有可能的。

But given that clothes became a symbolic dividing line during this State of the Union like seemingly never before — the members of the Congressional Black Caucus also expressed their point of view through their attire, with some wearing kente cloth and black outfits in reference to, and repudiation of, the president’s denigrating comment about Africa and Haiti this month — it’s hard to believe that the potential (and, indeed, probable) interpretations of her choice escaped the first lady.

但是，鑒于服裝似乎前所未有地成了成為國情咨文發(fā)布會上的象征性分界線——國會黑人議員團(tuán)(Congressional Black Caucus)的成員也通過服裝表達(dá)了自己的觀點，他們中的一些人穿著肯特布和黑色套裝，暗指以及駁斥總統(tǒng)本月對非洲和海地的詆毀性評論——很難相信，第一夫人不知道自己所選服裝的潛在(而且是非常有可能的)闡釋。

Especially because during her husband’s address last year, Mrs. Trump came under fire very quickly for her choice of what was seen as a let-them-eat-cake black sequined Michael Kors suit, so she must know how much what she wears to this particular event matters. Especially because she has proved, over the last few months, perfectly cognizant of the way dress can be used as an implicit form of messaging, wearing red Dior for her trip to France for Bastille Day, and Dolce & Gabbana to the G-7 in Sicily.

尤其是考慮到，去年，特朗普夫人在丈夫發(fā)表講話時身穿邁克高仕(Michael Kors)黑色亮片套裝，讓人想起“他們可以吃蛋糕呀”的軼事，很快引發(fā)批評，所以她應(yīng)該知道，自己在這個場合的著裝影響很大。還有，在過去的幾個月里，她已經(jīng)證明自己完全意識到，服裝可以被用作傳遞信息的含蓄方式，所以她在赴法國參加巴士底日慶?；顒訒r身穿紅色迪奧套裝，在西西里島的G-7會議上身穿杜嘉班納(Dolce & Gabbana)的服裝。

And especially given the almost elated reception that greeted her decision to wear a bright pink pussy bow blouse for an appearance during the campaign after her husband’s previous public sexual shaming, the “Access Hollywood” tape in which he made vulgar remarks about women. If she has paid any attention at all to public reaction (or if her team has), she cannot be ignorant of the fact that when she seems to use clothing as a subversive tool to suggest what she presumably cannot say, it provokes a groundswell of support.

尤其是考慮到，在競選期間，在她丈夫之前的性別歧視言論曝光之后——特朗普在《走進(jìn)好萊塢》(Access Hollywood)的錄音帶中發(fā)表了對女性的粗魯言論——她決定身穿玫粉色蝴蝶領(lǐng)結(jié)襯衫亮相，引發(fā)了人們近乎興高采烈的反應(yīng)。如果她(或她的團(tuán)隊)稍微過留意公眾的反應(yīng)，那么她就不可能忽視這樣一個事實：每當(dāng)她似乎把服裝作為一種顛覆性工具，表達(dá)她可能不能說的話時，都會受到熱烈支持。

Though it was unclear at the time whether Mrs. Trump really understood the implications of that blouse choice, wearing a white suit to the State of the Union indicates that, indeed, she did. That when it comes to what she wears and what she means by it, she chooses her moments. Sometimes, such as at the Easter egg roll, it’s just about a pretty dress. But other times, as this time, her fashion is accessorized with a pointed subtext.

盡管我們當(dāng)時不能確定，特朗普夫人是否真的明白選擇那件襯衫暗含的意思，但這一次她身穿白色西服套裝參加國情咨文發(fā)布會表明，當(dāng)時她是知道的。在選擇服裝以及透過服裝傳遞信息的時候，她精心選擇了時機。有時候，比如在復(fù)活節(jié)滾彩蛋活動上，她只是選了一件漂亮的裙子。但在其他時候，比如這一次，她的服裝帶著尖銳的潛臺詞。

At the very least, it’s dangled as a tease to those who would like to think it could mean more.

至少，對于那些愿意認(rèn)為這可能含有更多寓意的人來說，它是一種誘惑。

But taken together with the wardrobe choices of the Democrats and the Republicans, the first lady’s white suit was the final piece of what appeared to be an unprecedentedly politicized use of dress during a State of the Union. Indeed, Ivanka Trump, in understated plaid Oscar de la Renta, was one of the rare people in the room who didn’t seem to be using her clothes to communicate anything other than taking a back seat. The audience was theoretically supposed to be silent — the president was talking — but their clothes spoke for them. And they did it at a time when millions of viewers across the country were watching, and could read the message in the material. Why wait for the official rebuttals? They can start white now.

但是，如果綜合考慮民主黨人與共和黨人的著裝選擇的話，那么第一夫人的白色套裝可以說為國情咨文發(fā)布會上空前政治化的著裝選擇補上了最后一塊拼圖。的確，伊萬卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)身穿樸素的奧斯卡-德拉倫卡(Oscar de la Renta)格子連衣裙，屬于這個房間里少數(shù)幾個似乎沒有通過服裝來傳遞信息的人之一——唯一傳遞的信息可能是保持低調(diào)。從理論上講，聽眾應(yīng)該是沉默的——因為總統(tǒng)在講話——但他們的服裝在代表他們發(fā)聲。他們這樣做的時候，美國有成千上百萬的觀眾在觀看，可以切實地領(lǐng)會到那些訊息。為什么要等待官方的反駁呢?他們現(xiàn)在就可以穿上白色。