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選舉日,希拉里的白色套裝效應(yīng)

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2016年11月12日

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One of the more unexpected turns in a very twisted (in all senses of the word) electoral season has been the sudden emergence of a fashion statement that should, if all goes according to plan, reach its apogee on Tuesday, Election Day.

一個(gè)反常的競(jìng)選季里出現(xiàn)的更出乎意料的轉(zhuǎn)折之一,是一種時(shí)尚宣言的突然涌現(xiàn)。如果一切照計(jì)劃進(jìn)行,這一潮流可能會(huì)在周二大選日達(dá)到頂點(diǎn)。

A grass-roots movement on social media has been urging women to #WearWhiteToVote in solidarity with the American suffragists, who adopted the color as one of their signatures and fought for what has now come (at least partly) to fruition: the first woman as a major party’s candidate for president.

社交媒體上自發(fā)產(chǎn)生的一場(chǎng)運(yùn)動(dòng)呼吁女性 #WearWhiteToVote(穿白衣去投票),以聲援女性參政論者。他們將這種顏色作為自己的標(biāo)識(shí)之一,在為現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)取得成果(至少是部分地)的事業(yè)奮斗:出現(xiàn)了首位以重要政黨候選人的身份參加總統(tǒng)競(jìng)選的女性。

This is not dissimilar to the #pantsuitnation movement that emerged on Facebook a few weeks ago, in which women pledged to wear pantsuits to vote in support of that candidate, Hillary Clinton, who has famously adopted the pantsuit as her power uniform, though wear white movement is broader, and references feminist history as much as the current campaign.

這與Facebook上幾周前出現(xiàn)的 #pantsuitnation(全民褲裝)運(yùn)動(dòng)沒(méi)什么區(qū)別——參加該運(yùn)動(dòng)的女性承諾穿著褲裝去投票,以支持將褲裝當(dāng)作彰顯自己力量的服裝的總統(tǒng)候選人希拉里·克林頓(Hillary Clinton)——只不過(guò)穿白衣運(yùn)動(dòng)涉及的范圍更廣,而且和當(dāng)前的競(jìng)選一樣,較多涉及女權(quán)主義的歷史。

On Facebook, where there is a #WearWhiteToVote public page, and on Twitter, women are widely pledging their support.

不管是在Facebook還是Twitter上,女性都在普遍做出表示支持的承諾。Facebook上還有一個(gè)滿(mǎn)是 #WearWhiteToVote 標(biāo)簽的公共頁(yè)面。

Other women have already put their words into action, with one 102-year-old combining both movements by wearing a white pantsuit to cast an early vote in Arizona. Likewise, Ellen Cohen, the mayor pro tem of Houston, told the Boston Globe that she and her 101-year-old mother would wear white to vote.

還有一些女性已經(jīng)付諸行動(dòng)。在亞利桑那州,有一位102歲的老人將兩場(chǎng)運(yùn)動(dòng)合二為一,穿著白色褲裝去提前投票。休斯頓代理市長(zhǎng)艾倫·科恩(Ellen Cohen)也向《波斯頓環(huán)球報(bào)》(Boston Globe)表示,她和她101歲的母親將穿著白色服裝去投票。

Though the discussion around white and the suffragists began in the summer when Mrs. Clinton wore an ivory Ralph Lauren pantsuit to accept her nomination at the Democratic National Convention, both movements really coalesced after her appearance in another white Ralph Lauren pantsuit — with a slightly raised collar and off-center buttons that sparked comparisons to Star Trek and supreme beings — in the third presidential debate in October. Since then the white suit, either as a whole or simply as a white garment, has come to symbolize something greater than merely a piece of clothing.

盡管有關(guān)白色服裝和褲裝的討論是從今年夏天才開(kāi)始——當(dāng)時(shí)克林頓穿了一套象牙色的拉夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren)褲裝,在民主黨全國(guó)大會(huì)上接受提名——但是在她穿著另一套白色拉夫·勞倫褲裝在今年10月舉行的第三場(chǎng)總統(tǒng)辯論上亮相后,兩場(chǎng)運(yùn)動(dòng)實(shí)際上已經(jīng)合二為一。后一套服裝有小立領(lǐng)和斜裁的扣子,引得人們將之與《星際迷航》(Star Trek)中的人物和擁有至高無(wú)上力量的人作比。自那之后,白色服裝——不管是整套,還是只有一件白色上衣——開(kāi)始象征更大的東西,而不只是一件衣服。

“I was watching the debate with a group of friends, and we all said, spontaneously, ‘That’s a gorgeous suit — I want that suit,’ ” said Marcia Greenberger, co-president of the National Women’s Law Center in Washington.

“我跟一群朋友正在觀(guān)看總統(tǒng)辯論,我們?nèi)疾挥勺灾鞯卣f(shuō),‘那套衣服真不錯(cuò)——我想要一套’,”位于華盛頓的全國(guó)女性法律中心的聯(lián)席主席馬西婭·格林伯格(Marcia Greenberger)說(shuō)。

Debra Katz, a founding partner of the civil rights law firm Katz, Marshall & Banks, was one of them. “She looked so powerful and smashing,” Ms. Katz said of Mrs. Clinton, “and there was this sense she was speaking for all of us.”

德布拉·卡茨(Debra Katz)就是其中之一,她是主要代理民權(quán)案件的律師事務(wù)所卡茨-馬歇爾-班克斯(Katz, Marshall & Banks)的一位創(chuàng)始合伙人。“她看起來(lái)很有力量,很了不起,”卡茨說(shuō)到克林頓,“還有一種她在代表我們所有人講話(huà)的感覺(jué)。”

Ms. Greenberger said she and her friends had started talking about how they should all wear white to a fund-raising dinner for the law center as a “sign of solidarity,” and it spiraled from there.

格林伯格表示,她和朋友開(kāi)始談?wù)撍齻儜?yīng)該都穿白色的衣服去參加法律中心舉辦的一場(chǎng)籌款晚宴,“以示團(tuán)結(jié),”一切就從這里衍生開(kāi)來(lái)。

The only hitch: No one could get the original Ralph Lauren design, because it had been custom-made for Mrs. Clinton.

唯一的難題是:沒(méi)人能拿到拉夫·勞倫的原款,因?yàn)槟鞘墙o克林頓量身定制的。

“I went on the Ralph Lauren website hours ago and can’t find it anywhere!” wrote one unhappy Facebook poster in a private chat.

“幾小時(shí)前,我到拉夫·勞倫網(wǎng)站上找,怎么也找不到它!”一位不太開(kāi)心的Facebook用戶(hù)在私人聊天中寫(xiě)道。

Another responded: “Let me know what you come up with — maybe a discount if we buy in bulk.”

另一位回應(yīng):“如果你想到什么辦法,告訴我一聲——如果我們一起買(mǎi),也許有折扣。”

Though a brand spokesman acknowledged “there has been a lot of interest and excitement around her look,” he would not say anything more about whether there were plans to commercialize the suit. That has not, however, deterred the women determined to wear white to honor those who came before.

盡管一位品牌發(fā)言人承認(rèn)“她那套服裝讓人們很激動(dòng),引發(fā)了很大的興趣”,但他不愿意多講,沒(méi)有透露公司是否計(jì)劃將它商業(yè)化。然而,這并沒(méi)有打消女士們穿白色服裝向先行者致敬的決心。

“It started as fun and moved into having all this meaning, both historic and cultural,” said Lisa J. Banks, Ms. Katz’s law partner and a co-founder of their firm.

“剛開(kāi)始只是好玩,后來(lái)它開(kāi)始具有許多的意義,不管是歷史的還是文化的,”卡茨所在律所的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人兼合伙人莉薩·J·班克斯(Lisa J. Banks)說(shuō)。

She is not the only one who thinks so.

她不是唯一一個(gè)這么想的人。

Since the Democratic National Convention, “white pantsuits” have become the most-searched color of pantsuit according to data from Lyst, the global e-commerce platform that acts as a centralized shopping bag for thousands of retailers. Searches for white pantsuits are now 7 percent more prevalent than searches for black pantsuits which, before the convention, were the most-searched color. (Eighty percent of the searches originated in the United States.)

全球電子商務(wù)平臺(tái)Lyst的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,自民主黨全國(guó)大會(huì)召開(kāi)以來(lái),“白色褲裝”成為搜索次數(shù)最多的褲裝顏色。該平臺(tái)是為數(shù)以千計(jì)的零售商集中采購(gòu)的地方。白褲裝的搜索次數(shù)目前比黑褲裝的多了7%,而在大會(huì)召開(kāi)之前,黑色是被搜索最多的褲裝顏色。(其中80%的搜索都源自美國(guó)。)

Katherine Ormerod, Lyst’s editorial director, said, “The pantsuit has had a massive resurgence in interest with a 460 percent uplift since January 2016. The interest in white pantsuits in particular has certainly confounded expectations — especially as we usually see a seasonal dip for white color ways across every category.’’

Lyst的編輯部主任凱瑟琳·奧默羅德(Katherine Ormerod)表示,“人們對(duì)褲裝的興趣大增,自2016年1月至今已經(jīng)上漲460%。特別是對(duì)白色褲裝的興趣,無(wú)疑超出了預(yù)期——尤其考慮到以往在這個(gè)時(shí)期,我們通常會(huì)看到人們對(duì)各個(gè)類(lèi)別的白色服裝的購(gòu)買(mǎi)欲望出現(xiàn)季節(jié)性的下降。”

There is precedent for this kind of desire and action, in any case. In 1978 when thousands of women marched on Washington in support of the Equal Rights Amendment, they did so led by Gloria Steinem and Betty Friedan, with the majority of the marchers wearing white. Ms. Greenberger noted that the law center often suggests that women wear white at public demonstrations.

無(wú)論如何,這類(lèi)渴望和行動(dòng)是有先例的。1978年,數(shù)千名女性曾在格洛麗亞·斯泰納姆(Gloria Steinem)和貝蒂·弗里丹(Betty Friedan)的帶領(lǐng)下,走上華盛頓街頭,支持平權(quán)修正案(Equal Rights Amendment),其中大多數(shù)都穿著白色服裝。格林伯格也提到,法律中心常常建議女性在公開(kāi)的示威游行活動(dòng)中穿白色服裝。

The point is, the women said, that clothing is a symbol that is universally accessible, allowing anyone who can dig up a garment (“Once all I had was white puffer jacket, but that was fine,” Ms. Greenberger said.) to express their commitment and connection to a story greater than their own.

這些女性表示,重點(diǎn)是服裝是一種四海通用的象征,可以讓任何一個(gè)能找出這樣一件衣服的人(“曾經(jīng)我只有一件白色的羽絨夾克,但那不是問(wèn)題,”格林伯格說(shuō)。)表達(dá)自己的決心,展現(xiàn)她們和一些更廣闊的事物的聯(lián)系。

As a result, Tuesday may just be the beginning. Ms. Banks said she and her friends planned to find white suits to wear to the inauguration if Mrs. Clinton is elected. They are hoping that Ralph Lauren might provide some options, but if not, well, given the demand, there is little doubt someone else will.

因此,周二或許只是一個(gè)開(kāi)始。班克斯表示,如果克林頓當(dāng)選總統(tǒng),她和朋友們打算找來(lái)白色的套裝,穿著去觀(guān)看她的就職儀式。她們希望拉夫·勞倫可以提供一些選擇,如果沒(méi)有,考慮到有這么大的需求,肯定會(huì)有別的品牌會(huì)提供。

“I’ve never actually bought a piece of clothing specifically for an inauguration,” Ms. Katz said. “I went to Obama’s second inauguration, but was mostly concerned with not being cold. This is a new thing.”

“我從來(lái)沒(méi)有為一場(chǎng)就職儀式特地買(mǎi)過(guò)什么衣服,”卡茨說(shuō)。“我參加過(guò)奧巴馬的第二次就職儀式,但我當(dāng)時(shí)主要關(guān)心怎么不讓自己受凍。這對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)是新的體驗(yàn)。”

And then we will see if the area in front of the west side of the Capitol is a sea of white garments once again.

接下來(lái),我們會(huì)見(jiàn)證國(guó)會(huì)大廈西側(cè)前方的區(qū)域是否會(huì)再度成為白衣的海洋。
 


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