巴西不高興：充斥憤怒、焦慮與冷漠的里約奧運(yùn)

RIO DE JANEIRO — How do Brazilians feel about their big Olympic moment?

里約熱內(nèi)盧——巴西人對自己舉辦奧運(yùn)的大日子感覺如何?

First there is the anger: Rioters pelted the Olympic torch relay with rocks as it approached Rio de Janeiro, while bumper stickers have rearranged the Olympic rings into a four-letter word.

首先是憤怒：奧運(yùn)火炬?zhèn)鬟f到里約熱內(nèi)盧的途中，暴民向其投擲石塊，還出現(xiàn)了把奧運(yùn)五環(huán)重新排列成一個(gè)四字母單詞的汽車車貼。

Then there is the anxiety: With gallows humor amid a crime wave and fears of terrorism, a bingo game is circulating for people to wager on which day during the games an attack will occur.

再有是焦慮：一波犯罪潮出現(xiàn)，而且人們擔(dān)憂發(fā)生恐怖襲擊，黑色幽默卻也應(yīng)運(yùn)而生，在一個(gè)賓果游戲中，你可以下注在奧運(yùn)會期間哪一天會發(fā)生襲擊。

And the indifference: The media giant Globo will not even bother to broadcast the Olympics during the coveted Sunday afternoon slot, opting instead for domestic soccer. A sizable number of hotel rooms here remain unreserved, forcing travel agents to slash rates in a desperate attempt to entice Brazilians to come.

還有就是冷漠：巴西媒體巨頭環(huán)球電視臺(Globo)甚至沒興趣在周日下午的黃金時(shí)間播出奧運(yùn)會節(jié)目，而是選擇了巴西足球節(jié)目。大量酒店客房仍然無人預(yù)定，旅行社不得不降低價(jià)格，拼命招攬巴西人光顧。

“Just thinking of the Olympics leaves me revolted,” said Ana Caroline Joia da Souza, 21, a street vendor who sells sweets in front of a Rio metro station. “Our politicians want to trick the world into thinking things are great here. Well, let the foreigners see for themselves the filth we live in, the money our leaders steal.”

“一想到奧運(yùn)會我就感到惡心，”21歲的安娜·卡羅琳·喬伊·達(dá)索薩(Ana Caroline Joia da Souza)說，她在里約熱內(nèi)盧的一個(gè)地鐵站前擺攤賣糖果。“政客想瞞騙整個(gè)世界，讓大家覺得巴西很好很棒。好吧，讓外國人自己來看看我們住的這個(gè)骯臟地方，看看巴西領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人偷走的錢吧。”

It is something of a ritual in countries that host the Olympics to engage in soul-searching on the eve of the games. And Brazil is no exception, unleashing a withering exploration of the country’s political, economic and ethical troubles before the opening ceremony on Friday.

東道主國家在奧運(yùn)會前夕進(jìn)行反思幾乎已成慣例。巴西也不例外，在奧運(yùn)會本周五開幕之前，該國就其政治、經(jīng)濟(jì)和道德方面的問題展開了一波疾風(fēng)驟雨般的探究。

Nearly two-thirds of Brazilians — 63 percent — think hosting the Olympics will hurt the country, according to a recent survey by the polling company Datafolha. Only 16 percent said they were enthusiastic about the games, while 51 percent said they had no interest in them. (The poll, conducted on July 14-15 in interviews with 2,792 people, had a margin of sampling error of plus or minus 2 percentage points.)

民意調(diào)查公司Datafolha近期舉行的一項(xiàng)調(diào)查顯示，將近三分之二巴西人——具體是63%——認(rèn)為舉辦奧運(yùn)會有損于巴西。只有16%的受訪者說自己熱切期盼奧運(yùn)會，51%的人則表示他們對奧運(yùn)會毫無興趣。(調(diào)查是在7月14日和15日進(jìn)行的，共有2792名受訪者，抽樣誤差為正負(fù)兩個(gè)百分點(diǎn))。

The grim mood stands in stark contrast to the ebullience shown in 2009 when Rio landed the Olympics. At the time, Brazil was basking in its triumphs — including a growing presence on the world stage, the lifting of millions of poor people into the middle class and the maturing of its young democracy after 21 years of military rule that had ended in 1985.

這種沉郁的氣氛，與2009年里約熱內(nèi)盧奪得奧運(yùn)會主辦權(quán)時(shí)的興奮之情形成了鮮明對比。當(dāng)時(shí)的巴西沉醉在勝利的喜悅中——該國在全球舞臺上的存在感日益增強(qiáng)，數(shù)以百萬計(jì)的貧困人口進(jìn)入了中產(chǎn)階層，在21年的軍人統(tǒng)治于1985年結(jié)束后，年輕的民主制度在演進(jìn)中日益成熟。

But, today, the Olympics are competing with both a harrowing recession and Brazil’s other public spectacle: bare-knuckled political dysfunction.

但如今，與奧運(yùn)會爭搶人們的注意力的，除了令人飽受煎熬的經(jīng)濟(jì)衰退，還有另一出在公眾視野里展開的大戲：巴西的肉搏式政治亂局。

The country has not one, but two presidents: Dilma Rousseff, who was suspended to face impeachment proceedings that will continue to unfold during the games, and Michel Temer, her interim replacement. Both Rousseff, a leftist, and Temer, who is shifting to the right, are deeply unpopular around the country. In fact, voters are fuming about the entire political establishment.

目前巴西的總統(tǒng)不是一個(gè)，而是兩個(gè)：一個(gè)是已經(jīng)停職的迪爾瑪·羅塞夫(Dilma Rousseff)，她面臨的彈劾案將在奧運(yùn)期間繼續(xù)展開，另一個(gè)是臨時(shí)頂替她的米歇爾·特梅爾(Michel Temer)。無論是左派的羅塞夫，還是日益右傾的特梅爾，在巴西各地都非常不受歡迎。事實(shí)上，選民們對所有政治權(quán)貴都極為不滿。

The runup to the Olympics has been marked by such a long and varied list of fiascos — from protests over forced evictions to complaints about both thefts and plumbing debacles at the new Olympic Village — that the British sports historian David Goldblatt ranks the preparations here among the worst in Olympic history.

在里約奧運(yùn)會開幕之前，出現(xiàn)了一大串各式各樣的惡劣問題——從抗議強(qiáng)制驅(qū)逐行動(dòng)，到抱怨新的奧運(yùn)村發(fā)生了盜竊和管道無法使用的事情——英國體育歷史學(xué)家戴維·戈德布拉特(David Goldblatt)說，這是歷史上準(zhǔn)備工作最糟糕的奧運(yùn)會之一。

In an effort to bolster security in Rio during the games, the federal government is deploying thousands of troops to patrol the crime-weary city. But critics say that bringing in soldiers from violence-ravaged cities in northeast Brazil could embolden gang activity there and in other parts of the country.

里約的犯罪率居高不下，為了提高該市在奧運(yùn)期間的安全性，聯(lián)邦政府把數(shù)以千計(jì)的軍人部署到這里進(jìn)行巡邏。但批評者說，巴西東北部一些城市暴力肆虐，從那里調(diào)兵到里約會導(dǎo)致當(dāng)?shù)睾推渌麉^(qū)域的幫派變得膽大妄為。

Supporters say the traditional Olympic narrative often involves an escalation of tension before the games, only to be replaced by excitement once they are underway. There are also those who say the country needs to stop complaining and start enjoying the spectacle.

支持者說，在歷屆奧運(yùn)會開幕之前，往往都有緊張局勢升級的說法，但是開幕之后，大家的情緒就會振奮起來了。還有一些人說，該國民眾應(yīng)該停止抱怨，享受這一盛事。

“Everyone wanted the games here when we got them, so all the criticism now is hypocritical,” said Cleide Correa, 72, a real estate broker in Rio de Janeiro. “Of course they spent a lot of money to organize this, but that’s the case in every host country. We need to make the best of the situation now.”

“當(dāng)初我們贏得主辦權(quán)的時(shí)候，每個(gè)人都希望在這里舉辦奧運(yùn)會，所以現(xiàn)在的批評全都很虛偽，”72歲的里約熱內(nèi)盧房地產(chǎn)經(jīng)紀(jì)人克雷德·科雷亞(Cleide Correa)說。“當(dāng)然，他們花了很多錢來辦奧運(yùn)，但是每個(gè)東道國都不例外。我們需要在現(xiàn)有狀況的基礎(chǔ)上做到最好。”

Eduardo Paes, the mayor of Rio de Janeiro, who has hitched his political fortunes to the games, contends the negative sentiment around the Olympics is largely because of Brazil’s “stray-dog complex,” a term used by the playwright Nelson Rodrigues to describe the inferiority with which Brazilians sometimes view themselves in relation to other countries.

里約熱內(nèi)盧市長愛德華多·帕埃斯(Eduardo Paes)已經(jīng)把自己的政治前途和奧運(yùn)會連在了一起，他說，圍繞奧運(yùn)會產(chǎn)生的負(fù)面情緒主要源自于巴西的“流浪狗情結(jié)”。這個(gè)詞是劇作家納爾遜·羅德里格斯(Nelson Rodrigues)提出的，指巴西人在將自己和其他國家做對比的時(shí)候存在著一種自卑感。

The International Olympic Committee, Paes said, “is noting how we sell ourselves short.” He then argued that blame for the problems at the Olympic Village rested with an Argentina-born Olympic official, and contended that Brazilians were rapidly resolving the issues.

帕埃斯說，國際奧委會(International Olympic Committee)“已經(jīng)注意到我們在妄自菲薄”。他隨后表示，奧運(yùn)村的問題要怪一個(gè)在阿根廷出生的奧林匹克官員。他還說，巴西人正迅速解決這些問題。

Others say the country’s merciless self-questioning at the moment holds a cathartic value, reflecting a democracy where freedom of expression remains resilient.

另外一些人表示，巴西此刻進(jìn)行無情的自我檢討，可以起到宣泄情緒的作用，還說明在這個(gè)民主國家里，人們享有極大的言論自由。

In an essay, writer Eliane Brum listed some of the problems that make Brazil seem like a holy mess, including man-made environmental disasters like the bursting of a dam last year in the state of Minas Gerais and Rio de Janeiro’s sewage-infested Guanabara Bay, where sailing teams fear colliding with dead bodies.

作家埃莉亞尼·布魯姆(Eliane Brum)在一篇文章中列出了把巴西看變成一團(tuán)亂麻的若干問題，其中包括人為造成的環(huán)境災(zāi)難，比如米納斯吉拉斯州的一道水壩去年發(fā)生了決堤事故，再比如瓜納巴拉灣被里約的下水道污水嚴(yán)重污染，帆船隊(duì)擔(dān)心在那里撞上死尸。

Still, Brum said, it would be a joke to submit Brazil “to the judgment of the so-called First World,” given the number of recent problems in those countries and elsewhere.

但布魯姆表示，把巴西交由“所謂的第一世界去評判”會很可笑，因?yàn)樵谀切﹪乙约笆澜缙渌胤?，最近也出現(xiàn)了大量問題。

Brazil’s malaise has some arguing for realistic expectations.

面對巴西的弊病，一些人開始呼吁拋開不切實(shí)際的期待。

“We’re clearly not about to project an image of a powerful and efficient country,” said Fernando Gabeira, a politician and writer.

“我們顯然不可能展現(xiàn)強(qiáng)大、高效的國家形象，”政治人物、作家費(fèi)爾南多·加貝拉(Fernando Gabeira)說。

“Maybe we can show how we’re starting to get past our economic, political and moral disaster,” Gabeira said. “We could be like those athletes who manage to finish the marathon with their tongues hanging out, almost fainting. But they make it to the finish line.”

“我們或許可以展現(xiàn)的是，我們正著手應(yīng)對經(jīng)濟(jì)、政治和道德災(zāi)難，”卡貝拉說。“我們可以像那些設(shè)法跑完馬拉松的運(yùn)動(dòng)員一樣，他們伸著舌頭，幾近暈厥，但他們抵達(dá)了終點(diǎn)。”