奧運(yùn)特供：里約旅游小貼士

Rio loves a party

Abilities I should win a medal for: staring into the middle distance. Dithering over a sandwich choice. But above all, getting lost. Usually, I embrace this. I like getting lost in Paris or Venice; Brazil’s Olympics 2016 city, not so much.

我在某些方面也很迷糊，比如會(huì)盯著遠(yuǎn)處發(fā)呆，會(huì)為選擇一塊三明治而猶豫不決，最糟糕的是經(jīng)常迷路。通常我覺得這還不錯(cuò)，我喜歡在巴黎或威尼斯迷失方向，但在2016年奧運(yùn)會(huì)主辦城市里約迷路，那還是算了吧!

I was last in Rio de Janeiro over a decade ago when First Choice was experimenting with package holidays there.

我上一次到里約還是十年前，那時(shí)首選航空正在這里試行團(tuán)體旅游。

It was quite a short experiment while, as there were – and still are – some great resort hotels around Salvador in the east, the rest of the country wasn’t quite ready for package tourism. Especially Rio.

然而試行持續(xù)時(shí)間很短，因?yàn)檫@里除了東部的薩爾瓦多有些還不錯(cuò)的度假酒店外，其余地方的條件都不足以進(jìn)行團(tuán)體旅游。如今，這一情況尚未改變，一切都還照舊。尤其是里約熱內(nèi)盧。

Back then, we were warned against using public transport or going on Copacabana Beach. And the infamous favelas – the slum areas – were totally off-limits. In short, Rio wasn’t a place you wanted to get lost in.

那時(shí)，有人警告我們不要乘坐公共交通或去科帕卡巴納海灘玩耍。還有臭名昭著的貧民窟絕對(duì)禁止涉足?？偠灾?，里約熱內(nèi)盧不是個(gè)你會(huì)想迷路而亂逛的地方。

Now, I can’t get lost even if I want to. I have a smartphone, a local SIM card and a phalanx of Googlers guiding my every move as they show off their latest mapping app in one of the cities that needs it most.

現(xiàn)在，我即便是有意為之，也不會(huì)再迷路。我擁有一部智能手機(jī)，一張當(dāng)?shù)?SIM卡，一群谷歌用戶充當(dāng)我的向?qū)?，因?yàn)樗麄儠?huì)在極需使用地圖軟件的城市里，時(shí)時(shí)分享自己的地理位置。

After hosting the World Cup in 2014, the city is sprinting towards this month’s Olympics. You do get the feeling things are a bit behind compared to London 2012 at this stage, but Rio knows how to put on a show. It’s a diva of a city – ridiculously beautiful, with life, drama and an unshakable belief that it can set its own rules. It shouldn’t work, but generally it seems to.

繼2014年主辦世界杯之后，這座城市即將在本月迎來奧林匹克運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)。眼下如若與2012年倫敦奧運(yùn)會(huì)相比稍有遜色，但是這座城市卻知道如何“搔首弄姿”引人入勝。仿若“天后”之城，這里美得荒謬、生機(jī)勃勃、充滿戲劇性，有著其堅(jiān)不可摧的信念——制定其獨(dú)具個(gè)性的規(guī)章制度。按理它不能正常運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)，但似乎一切如常。

A favela in Rio

There are photo ops at every turn, from the Christ the Redeemer statue that towers over it to Copacabana Beach, where the beach volleyball will take place and the cycling ends. Crime is better than it was but seems to be on the rise again, and Rio is teetering financially, having had to be bailed out by central government.

人們可在這座城市的每個(gè)角落里舉起相機(jī)合照，從聳立著的地標(biāo)救世主基督像到沙灘排球賽舉行地及自行車賽終點(diǎn)的科帕卡巴納海灘。犯罪率比之前降低了，但又有上升跡象。里約的經(jīng)濟(jì)搖搖欲墜，不得不倚靠中央政府穩(wěn)定大局。

Not that you’d know this in Leblon. This is Rio’s old money area, orderly and sedate. So I switch off my phone and wander at will, past the patisseries, restaurants and the shops that still sell maid’s uniforms.

在里約的雷伯龍地區(qū)情況并沒那么糟糕，那里是里約較富有的區(qū)域，井然有序又平和恬靜。因此我關(guān)掉手機(jī)，四處走走漫不經(jīng)心，路過一些糕點(diǎn)店、餐館還有至今仍賣有女仆裝的商店。

In contrast, the favelas are Rio’s running sore; ramshackle, romantic, passionate, and near lawless.

相反，貧民窟是里約的膿瘡，破爛不堪，荒誕離奇，熱情奔放又缺乏法紀(jì)。

In recent years, they’ve become tourist attractions. Every hotel runs guided tours but now Google Maps are making it possible for us to explore the tiny passageways and streets independently.

近幾年，這些貧民窟已成為旅游景點(diǎn)。每家酒店都會(huì)安排向?qū)每蛥⒂^游覽，但現(xiàn)在谷歌地圖正準(zhǔn)備“另辟蹊徑”讓我們能夠獨(dú)立探索前往該處的小巷與街道。

You have to admire Google for persevering in the belief the world exists to be mapped ¬whatever the problems. But tackling the favelas has been time-consuming.

谷歌堅(jiān)信無論艱難險(xiǎn)阻與否世界各地皆可繪在地圖上，這確是讓人佩服不已。但是處理起參觀貧民窟地區(qū)路線依舊相當(dāng)耗時(shí)。

The company sought advice from community ambassadors and then used experts to train locals to map the best routes through the twisty thoroughfares and alleyways. By next year, 10 percent of Rio’s favelas will have been mapped, opening up new opportunities for shops, restaurants and even tourist hostels for those who like their travel edgy. The mapped bits are said to be safe, but keep your wits about you and leave your valuables in the safe,

公司在咨詢社區(qū)大使后，派出專家培訓(xùn)當(dāng)?shù)鼐用窭L制出最佳路線以穿過蜿蜒曲折的大街小巷。到下一年，10%的里約貧民窟可在地圖上體現(xiàn)，從而為那里的商店，餐館甚至是旅舍提供了新機(jī)遇，從而讓它們得以接待那些喜歡尋找刺激的游客。雖說谷歌地圖的繪制路線相對(duì)比較安全，然而自己多長(zhǎng)點(diǎn)兒心眼兒，保管好貴重物品也相當(dāng)重要。

One of Google’s ambassadors is David Vieira Bispo. Born and brought up in the favela of Chapéu Mangueira, not far from Copacabana, and a former fisherman, he now runs an acclaimed restaurant on its edge. As we ate there, a procession of taxis unloaded locals and tourists in search of classic Brazilian dishes such as Feijoada, a black bean and pork stew, washed down with beer.

大衛(wèi)•維埃拉•比斯波是谷歌的一名社區(qū)大使。他出生并成長(zhǎng)于離科帕卡巴納海灘不遠(yuǎn)處的貧民窟Chapéu Mangueira。過去他曾是一名漁民，現(xiàn)在他正在貧民窟外緣經(jīng)營(yíng)著一家廣受贊譽(yù)的餐館。我們?cè)谀抢镉貌蜁r(shí)不斷地看到有當(dāng)?shù)厝伺c游客從出租車上下來，絡(luò)繹不絕，他們都是前來尋覓巴西經(jīng)典菜肴如巴西肉燒豆，它是由黑豆與豬肉燉煮而成，可就啤酒下肚。

Google ambassador David

Over in the Olympic stadia, there’s a mapping frenzy with added Streetview. The interiors have been snapped – even the diving board Tom Daley will use.

奧運(yùn)會(huì)場(chǎng)館內(nèi)掀起一股街景服務(wù)繪制地圖的狂熱，任何室內(nèi)裝置都未有遺漏，甚至是跳水王子湯姆•戴利即將使用的跳水板。

Mapping’s one thing, life’s another, especially for those of us who know they will never want to do a forward three-and-a-half somersault dive with a twist pike. So on the last night, we go off-piste to Gavea, Rio’s posh-boho centre of bar excellence. We get there by Uber, but scout out suitable bars by sight rather than smartphone.

繪制地圖是一回事，而現(xiàn)實(shí)情況又是另一回事，尤其是我們中某些人深知自己永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)想要去嘗試向前翻騰三周半轉(zhuǎn)體一周。因此，在最后一個(gè)晚上，我們改變了先前計(jì)劃，用打車軟件優(yōu)步去了里約豪華時(shí)髦逍遙自在的酒吧中心卡維亞，但是我們搜尋合適的酒吧時(shí)并非借用智能手機(jī)而是親身體驗(yàn)。

Rio natives may complain that – at 20?C – it was on the chilly side, but everyone’s spilled out on to the streets while entrepreneurial types sell shots of tequila for a few reals.

里約當(dāng)?shù)厝艘苍S會(huì)抱怨20?C實(shí)在是溫度太低，但是在商家們進(jìn)行龍舌蘭酒促銷活動(dòng)時(shí)，他們又蜂擁到大街上。

We pile into a nearby restaurant for serious food. Cariocas eat late and they eat as they party, with a bossa nova band playing in the square. And I realise – caipirinha in hand – I’ve found my happy place.

我們涌入附近的一家餐館準(zhǔn)備大吃一頓。里約人吃飯時(shí)間較晚，他們通常一邊吃飯一邊辦趴，巴薩諾瓦樂隊(duì)在廣場(chǎng)上彈唱。我意識(shí)到，凱匹林納雞尾酒(巴西國(guó)酒)在手，把酒言歡，夫復(fù)何求。

Rio Olympics Travel File

里約熱內(nèi)盧觀賽小貼士：

Tickets: The main Olympic website has all the info. Tickets start at 40 reals, about £10.rio2016.com/en

門票：在奧林匹克官網(wǎng)上可查詢所有信息。門票起始價(jià)為40 雷亞爾，約10英鎊。詳情可見：rio2016.com/en

Getting around: The Olympic Park at Barra has nine stadia, including aquatic centre and cycling velodrome. Leave plenty of travel time, especially if work on the new Metro underground line isn’t finished.

觀光：奧林匹克公園位于巴拉，擁有九個(gè)露天大型體育場(chǎng)，其中包括水上中心、自行車館。請(qǐng)為行走觀光留足時(shí)間，尤其是如若屆時(shí)新地鐵地下線修建還未竣工。

Where to stay: Airbnb may be your best bet as many hotels are full. Prices average around £140 per night for a flat sleeping three. airbnb.co.uk

住宿：當(dāng)很多酒店客滿，空中食宿(Airbnb)會(huì)是個(gè)不錯(cuò)的選擇?？伤说墓⒚客矸?jī)r(jià)平均為140 英鎊左右。詳情可見：airbnb.co.uk

Zika virus: It’s winter in Rio so there are fewer mosquitos but Zika is still a threat. Strong repellent will minimise risk. Pregnant women should take extra care.

寨卡病毒：奧運(yùn)會(huì)期間，里約為冬季，因此蚊蟲較少，但寨卡病毒仍是威脅。強(qiáng)勁的殺蟲劑可降低風(fēng)險(xiǎn)。孕婦應(yīng)多加小心。

Best beaches: Ipanema and Leblon are quieter than Copacabana. Also nice is Urca, close to Sugarloaf mountain.

最佳海灘：依帕內(nèi)瑪海灘與雷伯龍海灘要比科帕卡巴納海灘來得寧?kù)o安適。靠近甜面包山的烏爾卡也景色撩人。

Best restaurants: Braseiro da Gavea; informal, meat-centric, expect to spend £30 a head on a feast.braseirodagavea.com.br

最佳餐館：Braseiro da Gavea餐館，便餐，以肉食為主，每人每餐消費(fèi)預(yù)估為30英鎊。詳情可見：braseirodagavea.com.br

Crime: The Foreign Office has an Olympics site with travel info including advice on crime prevention.gov.uk/rio2016

預(yù)防犯罪：英國(guó)外交部開辦奧運(yùn)會(huì)網(wǎng)站，其中的旅游信息包括預(yù)防犯罪建議。詳情可見：gov.uk/rio2016

Getting there: Flights with British Airways start at £874 return. ba.com

抵達(dá)：英國(guó)航空公司航班機(jī)票價(jià)始于874英鎊可折返。詳情可見： ba.com