《四季隨筆》節(jié)選 - 冬 10

《四季隨筆》是吉辛的散文代表作。其中對隱士賴克羅夫特醉心于書籍、自然景色與回憶過去生活的描述，其實是吉辛的自述，作者以此來抒發(fā)自己的情感，因而本書是一部富有自傳色彩的小品文集。

吉辛窮困的一生，對文學(xué)名著的愛好與追求，以及對大自然恬靜生活的向往，在書中均有充分的反映。本書分為春、夏、秋、冬四個部分，文筆優(yōu)美，行文流暢，是英國文學(xué)中小品文的珍品之一。

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Talking of vegetables, can the inhabited globe offer anything to vie with the English potato justly steamed? I do not say that it is always—or often—to be seen on our tables, for the steaming of a potato is one of the great achievements of culinary art; but, when it IS set before you, how flesh and spirit exult! A modest palate will find more than simple comfort in your boiled potato of every day, as served in the decent household. New or old, it is beyond challenge delectable. Try to think that civilized nations exist to whom this food is unknown—nay, who speak of it, on hearsay, with contempt! Such critics, little as they suspect it, never ate a potato in their lives. What they have swallowed under that name was the vegetable with all its exquisite characteristics vulgarized or destroyed. Picture the "ball of f lour" (as old-fashioned housewives call it) lying in the dish, diffusing the softest, subtlest aroma, ready to crumble, all but to melt, as soon as it is touched; recall its gust and its after-gust, blending so consummately with that of the joint, hot or cold. Then think of the same potato cooked in any other way, and what sadness will come upon you!

談起蔬菜，全世界還能拿出什么東西與蒸得恰到好處的英國土豆相比呢？我并不是說，因為蒸土豆是烹調(diào)藝術(shù)的一大成就，它就總是或經(jīng)常出現(xiàn)在我們的餐桌上。但是當(dāng)它放在你面前時，肉體和精神會怎樣地歡呼雀躍！一戶體面人家餐桌上的煮土豆會給口味不高的人帶來不俗的享受。土豆不管新老，都無疑是十分美味的。試著想想那些對這種食物還一無所知的文明國家吧——他們在道聽途說中談起它還帶著輕蔑的語氣！這些很少懷疑自己弄錯了的批評家們，在生活中可能從來沒吃過土豆。他們吞食的冠以土豆之名的食物，不過是一種鮮美特色被庸俗化或破壞掉的蔬菜。想象一下“面球”（老派的家庭主婦會這么叫）躺在盤子里，散發(fā)著最柔和、最微妙的香味，一觸碰就碎掉，幾乎要融化?；貞浰奈兜篮陀辔?，和肉一起食用，不管冷熱，都是完美的搭配。再想想同一個土豆，用其他任何方法來烹食，會讓人感到怎樣的悲傷??！