英美文化：穿裙子的男人 英國傳統(tǒng)服飾知多少？

英格蘭

Although England is a country rich in folklore and traditions, it has no definitive "national" costume. The most well-known folk costumes are those of the Morris dancers. They can be seen in many country villages during the summer months performing folk dances that once held ritualistic and magical meanings associated with the awakening of the earth.

盡管英格蘭有諸多民間傳說與傳統(tǒng)，它的“民族”服裝卻沒有絕對說法。莫里斯舞者所著的是英格蘭最知名的民族服飾。在夏季許多國家的村莊都會有人表演民族舞。這些舞蹈曾經(jīng)是一種禮儀，還同地球的復(fù)蘇有所聯(lián)系，被認(rèn)為蘊(yùn)含魔力。

The costume varies from team to team, but basically consists of white trousers, a white shirt, a pad of bells worn around the calf of the leg, and a hat made of felt or straw, decorated with ribbons and flowers. The bells and ribbons are said to banish harm and bring fertility. Morris dancing was originally an all-male tradition, but now some teams feature women dancers too.

這種民族服飾在每個舞隊之間是不同的，但基本上都包括一身白褲子和白襯衫，一副綁在小腿上且掛有鈴鐺的護(hù)具和一頂飾有緞帶、鮮花的氈帽或草帽。據(jù)說鈴鐺及緞帶能驅(qū)除禍害，并帶來豐饒。莫里斯舞最初是一項只有男士參加的傳統(tǒng)，不過如今一些隊里也會有女性舞者。

Scotland

蘇格蘭

Perhaps the most famous national costume in Britain is the Scottish kilt with its distinctive tartan pattern. The kilt is a length of woollen cloth, pleated except for sections at each end. The kilt is worn around the waist, with the pleats at the back and the ends crossed over at the front and secured with a pin.

英國最有名氣的民族服飾很可能是蘇格蘭式短裙，它的格子圖案極具特色。蘇格蘭式短裙是一截呢子，除去兩端，其他部分都打著褶。人們會把它圍于腰間，將有褶部分置于身后，呢子的兩端則在身前交叉，用一別針固定住。

Each Scottish Clan or family has its own distinctive tartan pattern, made up of different colours.

每個蘇格蘭家族或家庭有著它們各自特色的格子圖案，顏色不盡相同。

The kilt forms part of the traditional Highland dress, worn by Scottish clansmen and Scottish regiments. In addition to the kilt, a plaid or tartan cloak is worn over one shoulder, and a goatskin pouch or sporran is worn at the front of the kilt. Sometimes tartan trousers or trews are worn instead of a kilt. Women do not have their own distinctive national dress in Scotland, although tartan fabrics are widely used in clothing, and the kilt is also worn.

傳統(tǒng)蘇格蘭高地人服裝是蘇格蘭的族人和軍隊中的著裝。蘇格蘭式短裙構(gòu)成了它的一部分。除短裙外，蘇格蘭人還會肩披一件格子呢斗篷，并在短裙前綁上一個山羊皮袋或毛皮袋。盡管很多衣服都會用到格子面料，蘇格蘭婦女也會穿短裙，她們卻沒有專屬的民族服飾。

Wales

威爾士

The national costume of Wales is based on the peasant costume of the 18th and 19th centuries. Because Wales was isolated geographically from the rest of Britain, many of the individual traits of costume and materials were retained in Welsh dress long after they had died out elsewhere. Unlike Scotland, the distinctive folk costume of Wales was worn by the women, consisting of a long gown (betgwn) or skirt, worn with a petticoat (pais - the favoured colour was scarlet) and topped with a shawl folded diagonally to form a triangle and draped around the shoulders, with one corner hanging down and two others pinned in front. Aprons were universally worn, sometimes simple, sometimes decorated with colourful embroidery.

威爾士的民族服飾來源于18和19世紀(jì)的農(nóng)民服裝。因為威爾士與英國其他地方相距甚遠(yuǎn)，那時服裝和材料的許多特點得以在威爾士服飾中留存下來，盡管它們在英國其他地區(qū)早早消亡。不像蘇格蘭，威爾士的特色民族服飾是由女性穿著，它包括一條長袍(威爾士語：betgwn)或是裙子，與經(jīng)典深紅色的襯裙(威爾士語：pais)搭配。在長袍上還覆有一條圍巾。威爾士人會將其對折成三角形搭在肩上，使它的一角垂下來，另外二個角則用別針固定在身前。通常她們還會系上圍裙，有的圍裙設(shè)計簡單，而有的上面是多彩的刺繡。

The most distinctive part of the costume was the tall black "Welsh hat" or "beaver hat", thought to have originated in France at the end of the 18th century. The hats had a tall crown, cylindrical or conical in shape with a wide brim, and were usually trimmed with a band of silk or crêpe.

威爾士服飾最與眾不同的部分就是那高聳的黑色“威爾士帽”了，也稱“海貍皮帽”。它被認(rèn)為源自18世紀(jì)末的法國。這類帽子冠高邊寬，呈圓柱或圓錐形。通常它們的邊緣會飾以一圈絲綢或是縐紗。

Northern Ireland

北愛爾蘭

Early Irish dress, based on Gaelic and Norse costumes, consisted of check trews for men, worn with a fringed cloak or mantle, or a short tunic for both men and women, worn with a fringed cloak. This style of dressing was prohibited in the 16th century under sumptuary laws, passed to suppress the distinctive Irish dress and so overcome Irish reluctance to become part of England. In particular, the wearing of the fringed cloak was forbidden, as was the wearing of trews or any saffron-coloured garment (saffron yellow was an important feature of Irish costume).

早期的愛爾蘭服飾源自蓋爾人和挪威人的服裝。男士著緊身格子呢絨褲，肩戴一流蘇斗篷或是男女皆宜的短束腰外衣，女士也會披流蘇斗篷。而16世紀(jì)頒發(fā)的節(jié)約法令禁止這樣風(fēng)格的服飾。這法令是為了鎮(zhèn)壓特色愛爾蘭服裝，同時也是要對付不愿與英格蘭合并的愛爾蘭。

Although a strong tradition of wearing folk costume does not survive in Northern Ireland today, folk music and folk dancing are very important.

盡管如今的北愛爾蘭不再有穿著民族服裝的強(qiáng)烈傳統(tǒng)，民族音樂和民族舞蹈在北愛爾蘭還是有重要地位的。