雙語：如何打造歐洲恨天高復(fù)古發(fā)型

Back in the 1770s, stylish women from all walks of life favored soaring manes. But these towering creations weren’t wigs. Using a variety of ingenious tricks, women made their real hair look like that—and they did it all without mousse, gel, or hairspray.

早在18世紀(jì)70年代，各行各業(yè)的時(shí)尚女性都青睞沖天高的盤發(fā)。但這些高聳的發(fā)型作品不是假發(fā)。利用多種多樣的獨(dú)創(chuàng)技巧，女性用真發(fā)拗出這般發(fā)型，全程不用摩絲、啫喱和發(fā)膠。

Members of the French aristocracy first adopted the “bigger is better” hair trend, which quickly made its way to England. The complexity of the styles showed that the wearer had both the leisure-time to devote to her hair, and most often the wealth to employ a professional hairdresser or accomplished lady’s maid to achieve it.

法國貴族成員率先追隨“越大越好”的發(fā)型趨勢，很快便一路流傳到英國。發(fā)型紛繁復(fù)雜，梳此發(fā)型者得有足夠的閑暇時(shí)光打理頭發(fā)，更多情況下，有錢人雇傭?qū)I(yè)發(fā)型師或者技藝嫻熟的貼身侍女來打造發(fā)型。

The first step toward ensuring their updos would stay, well, up, was to start with semi-dirty hair. A substance called pomatum, generally made at home by combining an animal fat and fragrant herbs or oils, was applied to the hair, followed by a dusting of powder. Hair was then brushed to ensure the powder and pomatum were evenly distributed.

確保發(fā)髻可以高高盤在頭頂，第一步得先從蓬亂不凈的頭發(fā)著手。把一種潤發(fā)油涂抹到頭發(fā)上，這種物質(zhì)通常是家庭自制的，由動(dòng)物脂肪和芳香的草藥或油脂混合而成，然后再蓋一層粉末。接著梳理頭發(fā)，確保粉末和潤發(fā)油充分?jǐn)嚭稀⒕鶆蚍植嫉筋^發(fā)。

Think of the pomatum as a rich, deep conditioner applied as a kind of scalp massage, followed by the powder as a dry shampoo. This was a process women repeated nearly every night.

把這種潤發(fā)油當(dāng)做豐盈滋養(yǎng)的護(hù)法素，涂抹到頭發(fā)上給頭皮作按摩，隨后施以粉末，作干洗香波之用。這一過程女性幾乎每晚都重復(fù)一遍。

More powder was added after "cleansing" to achieve the era’s coveted hue (dusty white—so chic). Hair was then wrapped around hand-sewn pillows ("rollers" and "cushions") placed on top of the head. Once the desired height was achieved, a lady could make it look even more fashionable by adding fake curls or braids, or by dressing it up with ribbons and flowers.

“洗凈”后，拍上更多的粉末，達(dá)到那個(gè)年代推崇的色彩效果(灰白色，多時(shí)髦)。然后把頭發(fā)纏繞在高置頭頂、手工縫制的發(fā)枕上(“發(fā)卷”和“發(fā)墊”)。一旦達(dá)到預(yù)想高度，女士可以加上假卷和辮子，或者飾以發(fā)帶和鮮花，這樣好看起來更時(shí)尚。