奧巴馬最喜歡的大廚再開(kāi)新餐廳

In D.C., a Vibrant New Restaurant From the Obamas’ Favorite Local Chef

奧巴馬最喜歡的大廚再開(kāi)新餐廳

In the District of Columbia’s historic Penn Quarter, the newly opened China Chilcano is a departure from the usual Spanish sprawl of José Andrés, the tapas pioneer (and arguably the city’s most famous chef) who runs a mini-empire of restaurants, frequented by Barack and Michelle Obama, in the city.

西班牙小吃先鋒大廚(也是華盛頓最著名的大廚)何塞·安德烈(José Andrés)在華盛頓歷史悠久的佩恩區(qū)新開(kāi)設(shè)了China Chilcano餐館，它不同于這位大廚通常做的西班牙菜。奧巴馬夫婦經(jīng)常惠顧安德烈在這座城市經(jīng)營(yíng)的迷你餐館帝國(guó)。

This time, the spotlight is on Peru, with its large and diverse communities of Japanese and Chinese immigrants. Inspired by two years’ worth of travels throughout Peru, China, Japan and Southeast Asia, Andrés set out to create a menu exploring the distinct cuisines of Chinese Chifa, Japanese Nikkei and Peruvian Criollo (Creole) cultures. The result: main courses like a heaping plate of chaufa, a common Chinese-influenced Peruvian fried rice with pork belly, fried egg, fried plantain, chayote and fresh tomato; a spicy bigeye tuna ceviche with puffed quinoa, soy-cured egg yolk, avocado, mountain yam and furikake seasoning; and house-made “Chi-racha” (in the vein of Sriracha) made with Peruvian peppers. (Just don’t call it fusion.)

這一次的焦點(diǎn)是秘魯，那里有一些日本和中國(guó)移民組成的充滿(mǎn)多樣性的大社區(qū)。安德烈在秘魯、中國(guó)、日本和東南亞旅行了兩年，開(kāi)創(chuàng)了一個(gè)探索中國(guó)吃法、日本料理和秘魯西班牙拉美菜肴不同特色的菜單。結(jié)果是這樣的：主菜包括一盤(pán)堆得滿(mǎn)滿(mǎn)的炒飯，這道常見(jiàn)的受中餐影響的秘魯炒飯里含有豬肚、煎蛋、炸大蕉、佛手瓜和鮮番茄;酸橘汁腌辣大眼金槍魚(yú)里含有蓬松的藜麥、鹵蛋黃、牛油果、山藥和日本香松調(diào)料;用秘魯辣椒自制的“Chi-racha”(泰式香甜辣椒醬的風(fēng)格)(但是不要稱(chēng)它為融合菜)。

The vibrant, stylized interiors are also part of the narrative. The Spanish architect Juli Capella designed the industrial wood-accented room, subtly staged into three spaces. Like the menu, the space offers a discerning blend of elements, from the Peruvian woven textiles to the recessed Japanese dining tables to the ceiling’s swirling lights, which evoke patterns reminiscent of ancient geoglyphs found in Southern Peru’s Nazca Desert. The effect is only intensified after a few obligatory pisco brandy sours, Peru’s national cocktail. It’s hard to take your eyes off the pièce de résistance, filling an entire wall: a bold, sensual and Kubrick-red floral-tattooed wall mural courtesy of the Peruvian-turned-Philadelphian artist Cecilia Paredes, fittingly titled “Both Worlds.”

這家餐館的另一個(gè)特色是色彩明亮、具有藝術(shù)風(fēng)格的內(nèi)部裝修。西班牙建筑師胡利·卡佩利亞(Juli Capella)設(shè)計(jì)了這個(gè)工業(yè)木材情調(diào)的房間，它巧妙地分為三個(gè)空間。和菜單一樣，這個(gè)空間明顯混合了多種元素，從秘魯?shù)木幙椘?、日本的嵌入式餐桌，到天花板上的漩渦狀燈飾，這種燈飾讓人想起了秘魯南部納斯卡沙漠的古代地質(zhì)印痕。來(lái)這里必須喝幾杯皮斯科白蘭地酸酒，它是秘魯?shù)拇硇噪u尾酒。喝完之后，你的感受就會(huì)更強(qiáng)烈。你很難把眼睛從裝修的重頭戲上移開(kāi)，它占了一整面墻：秘魯出生的費(fèi)城藝術(shù)家塞西莉亞·帕雷德斯(Cecilia Paredes)創(chuàng)作的、非常醒目、刺激感官的庫(kù)布里克紅色花朵墻繪，它被貼切地命名為《兩個(gè)世界》(Both Worlds)。