36小時玩轉夏威夷考艾島

36小時玩轉夏威夷考艾島

These days, Kauai sits firmly on the tourist radar, an indisputable rival of its famous neighbors, Oahu and Maui. But upon first glance at its unspoiled natural splendor, you’d never know it. A closer look at one of the oldest (geologically speaking) and arguably most beautiful of the major Hawaiian Islands reveals a blossoming culinary scene, a rooted arts community and a smattering of resorts. But thanks to careful regulation (by law, building heights max out at 55 feet) and a certain amount of pushback from residents (in 2007 protesters quickly quashed high-speed ferry service between Oahu and Kauai), most of the island still feels like the world’s most stunning backwater.

這些年來，考艾島(Kauai)在游客心中的地位堅如磐石，一直是它著名芳鄰瓦胡島(Oahu)與毛伊島(Maui)無可爭議的競爭對手。可是，只有當你親眼見到它純凈無暇的自然風光時，才會真正明白這一點。它是夏威夷群島各大島中(從地質意義上說)最古老的一個，也是最美麗的一個，盡管后一點尚存爭議。走近細看，面前徐徐展開的是欣欣向榮的餐飲業(yè)、早已生根發(fā)芽的藝術社區(qū)和若干個度假區(qū)。但是，幸好有嚴格的管制(法律規(guī)定，這里的建筑物最高只能建到55英尺高，約合16.8米)，當地居民的反制措施(2007年，抗議者迅速取消了瓦胡島與考艾島之間的高速渡船服務)，因此在考艾島上大部分區(qū)域游覽，你仍會感覺這是世界上最為驚艷的寂靜港灣。

Waterfalls provide a dramatic backdrop as people stroll along Hanalei Bay.

游客沿著哈納雷灣(Hanalei Bay)漫步，背景是美不勝收的瀑布群。

FRIDAY

星期五

6 p.m.

傍晚6點

1. Art and Literature

1. 藝術與文學

Kauai’s small but enthusiastic community of artists clusters in Hanapepe, with its dozen or so galleries housed in buildings along Hanapepe Road that, although reminiscent of America’s Wild West, were built by Asian immigrants around the turn of the 20th century. Every Friday, the galleries and other shops leave their doors open late for Hanapepe Art Night. You can browse through exhibitions at galleries like Island Art Gallery, at 3876 Hanapepe Road (islandartkauai.com), and Amy-Lauren’s Gallery, at 4545 Kona Road (amylaurensgallery.com), which feature local artists taking inspiration from the landscape and culture of Kauai. Craft and food vendors selling Hawaiian barbecue and tacos also set up shop along the street. Reserve time to browse the pleasantly musty stacks of new and used books at Talk Story Bookstore, the only dedicated bookstore on the island — and it is a charmer.

考艾島上的哈納佩佩(Hanapepe)是個緊湊而熱烈的藝術家聚居區(qū)，哈納佩佩路(Hanapepe Road)上有十幾家畫廊，那一幕會讓人想起美國的西大荒，但它其實是亞裔移民在二十世紀初建造起來的。每逢周五，畫廊和其他店鋪都開門營業(yè)到很晚，歡慶哈納佩佩藝術之夜。你可以去某些出色的畫廊瀏覽藝術品，比如島嶼藝術館(Island Art Gallery，網站islandartkauai.com，地址是哈納佩佩路3876號)、艾米·勞倫藝術館(Amy-Lauren’s Gallery，網站amylaurensgallery.com，地址Kona路4545號)。它們展示著本地藝術家從考艾島的風景與文化中汲取的靈感。街上也有幾家餐館供應夏威夷烤肉和墨西哥卷餅。給自己留出時間去講故事書店(Talk Story Bookstore)逛逛，這是島上唯一一家圖書專營店。輕松愉快地翻閱那一堆堆泛著淡淡霉味的新書與舊書，你會發(fā)現(xiàn)它真是個迷人的地方。

8 p.m.

晚上8點

2. Dinner With Sugar

2. 香甜的晚餐

Kauai’s sugar industry once dominated the landscape, and the footprints of its sprawling plantations continue to shape it today. Towns founded to serve plantation workers now serve shoppers, and plantation grounds now cater to myriad leisurely pursuits. This is especially true at the Kilohana Plantation. Here, in what was once a sprawling 16,000-square-foot home, bedrooms have been converted into shops selling items like jewelry and pottery made by local artisans; the inner courtyard is now the elegant Gaylord’s Restaurant. After a couple of years of tinkering, the menu has settled on a by-turns familiar and adventurous approach — the island caprese ($14) is a refreshing twist on the salad standard, while the sesame seared fresh catch ($29) reimagines classic Hawaiian seafood dishes. Live guitar players in flowery shirts sing beachy rock standards, providing just the right dose of Hawaiian kitsch.

過去，蔗糖加工業(yè)是考艾島上的主流產業(yè)，直到今天島上依然隨處可見廣袤的甘蔗種植園。當年為了滿足種植園工人的需要，一座座小鎮(zhèn)涌現(xiàn)出來，時至今日，島上的種植園則是為了迎合游客的休閑與購物需求，對于奇洛哈納種植園(Kilohana Plantation)來說尤其如此。這片16000平方英尺(合1486平方米)的昔日種植園現(xiàn)在是座度假村。臥室改建成各種店鋪，出售本地手工藝人制作的珠寶與陶器;內部的庭院里是華麗的蓋洛德餐廳(Gaylord’s Restaurant)，經過兩三年的探索與嘗試之后，它終于找到了菜肴的定位，即家常菜與創(chuàng)新菜輪番上陣。島嶼紅白小碟($14)是一種清新爽口的沙拉;芝麻烤鮮魚($29)再現(xiàn)了夏威夷經典海鮮菜肴的模樣。穿著花襯衫的吉他表演者做現(xiàn)場表演，唱著海灘搖滾流行曲目，提供不多不少正合適的夏威夷式刻奇(kitsch，指俗氣的藝術，迎合低級趣味的作品——譯注)。

SATURDAY

星期六

8:30 a.m.

上午8:30

3. Coffee at the Source

3. 正宗咖啡

Load up on hearty egg, vegetable and rice dishes (about $10) at Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co. Wash it down with a local blend, then head to the source. The Kauai Coffee Company got its start in 1987, taking over land formerly used for sugarcane. Since then, it has survived encroachment from the tourist industry to maintain its oceanfront headquarters, 3,100 acres of coffee trees and status as the largest coffee plantation in Hawaii. The self-guided tour is short and interesting, and connoisseurs will get a kick out of the many varieties ready to sample inside the visitor’s center.

在Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co.餐館，就著一杯本地特產的濃香咖啡，飽餐一頓豐盛的炒飯(大約$10，里面有雞蛋和蔬菜)，然后去尋找咖啡香氣的源頭——考艾島咖啡公司。它始建于1987年，原址是一片甘蔗田，從那時起就不斷抵抗著旅游業(yè)的侵蝕，保衛(wèi)自己位于海濱的辦公場所、3100英畝的咖啡林及夏威夷最大咖啡種植園的地位。在這片種植園里的自助游時間雖短卻很有趣。游客中心里有各種各樣的咖啡樣品供品嘗，內行對此會非常開心。

10:30 a.m.

上午10:30

4. Hikes With Views

4. 徒步看風景

Kauai is more than five million years old — plenty of time for nature to carve out some dramatic contours. Perhaps most dramatic is Waimea Canyon, a chasm over 3,000 feet deep and composed of a thousand shades of brown, green and red. Take Highway 550 to Kokee State Park, then continue on, stopping at lookouts along the way — those past mile marker 9 are particularly majestic. At the very end, both Kauai topographies loom side by side, the dusty hues of the arid south against the intense greens of the lush north. A number of hikes accommodate a wide range of ambitions. The Cliff Trail, near mile marker 14, is an easy two-mile round-trip trek to a sweeping overlook. Look for Halemanu Road, where the hike begins.

考艾島的歷史有五百萬年以上，這悠長的時光足以讓大自然雕琢出一些絕美的輪廓。其中最美的恐怕要數威美亞峽谷(Waimea Canyon)，山谷至少3000英尺(約914米)深，由千百片棕色、綠色與紅色的暗影組成。沿著550號公路到達寇吉州立公園(Kokee State Park)，繼續(xù)向前，記得在路邊的幾處觀景臺短暫停車，欣賞美景。走過九英里路標之后，前面幾個觀景臺處景色尤佳。到了公路的盡頭，考艾島的兩種地貌就同時出現(xiàn)在眼前，荒蕪灰暗的南部與翠綠豐饒的北部對比鮮明。許多旅人帶著各不相同的目的到這里徒步。14英里路標附近的懸崖步道(Cliff Trail)輕松便捷，雙程兩英里長，行走在上面，峽谷風光盡收眼底。去找Halemanu路(Halemanu Road)吧，那是徒步旅行的起點。

1:30 p.m.

中午1:30

5. End of the Road

5. 路的盡頭

There’s no preparing for the visual spectacle of Kauai’s north shore, with its mountains practically dripping green and beaches aglow with barely trodden golden sand. There’s only one road in, and once you get past the resort community of Princeville, the town of Hanalei anchors the coastline with its guileless, though well-heeled, beach culture. Pick up a salmon or chicken salad sandwich (under $10) at Hanalei Gourmet, where insulated backpacks (free loaners with sandwich purchases) are available for to-go picnics, then rent snorkel gear ($7) at the Wainiha General Store just outside town. Farther on, the highway’s end is the beginning of the Na Pali Coast, roughly 12 unsullied miles of verdant shoreline. That’s where you’ll find Kee Beach, an alcove whose water is surrounded by reef, attracting colorful marine life while keeping the waves at bay. It’s a perfect snorkeling spot. After toweling off, stroll down the beach and turn around: There’s the Na Pali Coast spread before you like some fantasy realm.

從沒想到考艾島北岸的風光如此壯麗，群山青翠欲滴，金色的沙灘閃閃發(fā)光，幾乎沒有游人的足跡，只有一條路能夠進入。過了普林斯維爾(Princeville)度假區(qū)之后，哈納雷(Hanalei)鎮(zhèn)的這片海岸就基本是誠信經營的高端消費區(qū)了。在Hanalei Gourmet點一份三文魚或者雞肉沙拉三明治($10以下)嘗嘗。如果你在這家店里買三明治外賣，可以免費租用他們用于野餐的隔熱背包。到小鎮(zhèn)外面的Wainiha General Store租賃潛水用的通氣管($7)。繼續(xù)向遠處走，公路的盡頭就是納帕利海岸(Na Pali Coast)，一片大約12英里的純凈無暇的翠綠海濱。在這里，你會看到津耶海灘(Kee Beach)，海水為礁石圍繞，吸引了五彩繽紛的海底生物，這片港灣也因此波瀾不驚。完美的浮潛地點。浮潛之后用毛巾擦干身體，漫步海灘，轉身一看，眼前的納帕利海岸美不勝收，儼然一個幻想王國。

6 p.m.

傍晚6點

6. Sunset Perch

6.黃昏小憩

Not even the grandeur of the rest of the north shore can prepare you for the view you’ll have over Hanalei Bay as you sip cocktails and watch the sunset from the terrace of the St. Regis Bar. The St. Regis Princeville Resort opened in 2009 on the reimagined grounds of the old Princeville Resort, and while some still bemoan the glassing in of the formerly open-air lobby, the appeal of the space remains. The Champagne presentation just before dark feels a bit Hawaii-by-way-of-Disney, but it’s informative and a small price (about $15 to $16 per cocktail) to pay for the glorious setting and skillful bartending.

北岸其他區(qū)域風景也不錯，但即便如此，你還是不曾料到，當你黃昏時分坐在圣里吉斯酒吧(St. Regis Bar)的露臺上喝著雞尾酒朝下望去的時候，日落的場景有多么的壯美。圣里吉斯普林斯維爾度假村(St. Regis Princeville Resort)開張于2009年，在之前的普林斯維爾度假村的舊址重新設計改建而成，盡管有些游客會惋惜過去露天大廳的磨光玻璃不見了，但總體來看這里風采依然。香檳只在黃昏時分供應，感覺有點像夏威夷里的迪斯尼。但是價格有點小貴，一杯雞尾酒大概$15至$16。不過既然有燦爛的夕陽美景和嫻熟的酒吧服務，這點費用也物有所值。

6:30 p.m.

傍晚6:30

7. A Friendly Barracuda

7. 友善的梭魚

Bedtime comes early on Kauai, so start early to get in a full evening. Hanalei has become a culinary hot spot, and a recent addition to the scene is Bar Acuda, a small-plates restaurant tucked behind a health food store. Ask for a table on its cloistered wraparound porch to nibble on dishes like local honeycomb and seared sea scallop (each $12). Reservations are recommended.

考艾島上天黑得很早，所以想要享受豐富的夜生活就要早點開始。哈納雷已經成為餐飲業(yè)熱點區(qū)域，最近又新開了一家梭魚餐廳(Bar Acuda)。這家餐廳藏在一家健康食品店后面，菜量少而精致。坐在它幽靜的弧形門廊里點一桌菜，嘗一嘗本地特產的蜂巢和烤扇貝($12一只)。最好預訂席位。

8:30 p.m.

晚上8:30

8. Tipple in Tahiti

8. 大溪地暢飲

Follow dinner with drinks at Tahiti Nui, the best bar on the island, with its thatched walls and divey aloha ambience. There’s live music most evenings, and more often than not the genre is native to Hawaii — slack-key guitars and ukuleles rule the night. It all feels more like a family gathering than the big production for out-of-towners found elsewhere in Hawaii. Every Hawaiian-themed bar in the world wishes it could be this one.

晚飯后去大溪地酒吧(Tahiti Nui)暢飲美酒。這是島上最好的酒吧，草墻洋溢著熱烈的夏威夷風情。幾乎每天晚上都有現(xiàn)場音樂演出，類型往往是本土音樂和夏威夷音樂，滑音吉他和尤克里里統(tǒng)治了夜晚。感覺更像家庭聚會，而不是為夏威夷其他地方四處可見的度假者所提供的那種大制作。全世界的夏威夷主題酒吧都恨不得變成它的模樣。

SUNDAY

星期日

8 a.m.

上午8點

9. Standing on Water

9. 站在浪尖上

A quick coffee from Hanalei Wake Up Cafe should have you ready to try some stand-up paddleboarding, a Hawaiian original that has over the past decade spread around the globe. With its short learning curve and high fun quotient, after a morning lesson you may be paddling out into Hanalei Bay with the big boys. Far enough, anyway, to watch those advanced surfers catching waves at the break farther out. If the ocean’s rough, you can stick to the Hanalei River. Hawaiian Surfing Adventures gives hourlong group lessons starting at $55.

在哈納雷覺醒咖啡館(Hanalei Wake Up Cafe)簡單地喝杯咖啡，準備就緒，去嘗試立式單槳沖浪板吧。這項運動是夏威夷的原創(chuàng)，過去十年間已風靡全球。如果你會玩又愛學，一個上午的培訓課之后你就可以跟小伙伴們在哈納雷灣一起沖浪了。無論如何，你所處的距離已經足以讓你看清更遠處那些沖浪高手乘風破浪的英姿。如果海面波浪較大，你可以只留在哈納雷河里玩。夏威夷沖浪冒險機構(Hawaiian Surfing Adventures)提供為時一個鐘頭的團體沖浪課($55)。

11 a.m.

上午11點

10. A Movable Feast

10. 流動的盛宴

Mom-and-pop joints dot the roadside along the drive to the Lihue Airport. Hit Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar for smoothies or an acai bowl ($7.25). Some ingredients are sourced directly from the farms surrounding the wood hut. On the outskirts of Kapaa, Paco’s Tacos serves fish tacos ($4.85) from a food truck with picnic tables by the ocean. Coconut stands abound. Get one, and after you’ve finished drinking the juice, have the vendor cut out the coconut’s meat — it’s delicious.

三三兩兩的爸媽組合走在通向利胡埃機場(Lihue Airport)的路上。去Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar吃點兒鮮果奶昔，或者來一碗巴西紫莓冰霜(acai bowl, $7.25)。這座木屋供應的美食都從周圍的農田中就地取材，十分鮮嫩?？ㄅ羴?Kapaa)郊外的Paco’s Tacos在海邊擺開許多野餐桌，供應墨西哥魚肉卷餅($4.85)，美食就裝在一輛食品卡車上。到處都是椰子。買一個吧，喝完椰汁之后，讓賣椰子的小販幫忙把果肉削下來，很好吃的。

12:30 p.m.

中午12:30

11. Environmental Survey

11. 有利于環(huán)保的空中巡游

While helicopter tours are popular, and breathtaking, planes offer an alternative that use a fraction of the fuel a helicopter gobbles up — and they’re cheaper. AirVentures Hawaii offers 70-minute flights ($125) over the majority of the island not accessible by car, including the Na Pali Coast, numerous peaks and valleys and more waterfalls than you could count.

這里流行的直升飛機雖然激動人心，但是也有普通飛機，它們消耗的燃油比直升飛機少得多，費用也低廉。AirVentures Hawaii公司提供70分鐘的空中巡游($125)，乘飛機飛越島上大部分區(qū)域的上空，許多地方都是汽車無法抵達的，比如納帕利海岸、許多山峰、山谷和數不勝數的瀑布。

2 p.m.

下午2點

12. Plantation Past

12.昔日種植園

The town of Koloa sprang up to serve workers on the island’s first sugar plantation, founded in 1835. It’s been lovingly preserved and today houses shops ranging from practical to amusing — a perfect stop for last-minute souvenirs. The Ukulele Store is an outpost of Larry’s Music in Kapaa, with rows upon rows of this classic Hawaiian instrument for sale. If you’re still hungry, TomKat’s Grille is a local favorite with a lost-in-time garden.

1835年，島上第一座蔗糖種植園建成，為了服務園里的工人，涌現(xiàn)出了一座科洛阿小鎮(zhèn)。這座可愛的小鎮(zhèn)至今保存完好，街上的店鋪風格多樣，有的實用，有的好玩，是臨行前購買紀念品的最佳地點。尤克里里是夏威夷的經典特色樂器，尤克里里商店(Ukulele Store)則是卡帕亞的拉里音樂店(Larry’s Music)在此地的前哨，店里擺著成排的琴供出售。如果你還感到餓，就去TomKat’s Grille，這是本地人最愛的餐館，周圍的風景宛如世外桃源。

THE DETAILS

實用信息

1. Talk Story Bookstore, 3785 Hanapepe Road, Hanapepe; talkstorybookstore.com.

1. 講故事書店，哈納佩佩路3785號;talkstorybookstore.com.

2. Gaylord’s Restaurant, 3-2087 Kaumualii Highway, Lihue; gaylordskauai.com.

2. 蓋洛德餐廳，3-2087 Kaumualii Highway, Lihue; gaylordskauai.com.

3. Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co., 2-2560 Kaumualii Highway, Kalaheo; kalaheo.com. Kauai Coffee Company, 870 Halewili Road, Kalaheo; kauaicoffee.com.

3. Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co., 2-2560 Kaumualii Highway, Kalaheo; kalaheo.com. Kauai Coffee Company, 870 Halewili Road, Kalaheo; kauaicoffee.com.

4. Waimea Canyon, Highway 550 past mile marker 9. Cliff Trail, Highway 550 to Halemanu Road, near mile marker 14.

4. 威美亞峽谷，550號公路9英里路標過后。懸崖步道，550號公路至Halemanu路，14英里路標附近。

5. Hanalei Gourmet, 5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; hanaleigourmet.com. Wainiha General Store, 5-6607 Kuhio Highway; 808-826-6251.

5. Hanalei Gourmet, 5-5161 Kuhio Highway, 哈納雷;hanaleigourmet.com. Wainiha General Store, 5-6607 Kuhio Highway; 808-826-6251.

6. St. Regis Bar, in the St. Regis Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; stregisprinceville.com.

6. 圣里吉斯酒吧，位于圣里吉斯普林斯維爾度假村之內，5520 Ka Haku Road，普林斯維爾; stregisprinceville.com.

7. Bar Acuda, 5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; restaurantbaracuda.com.

7. 梭魚餐廳，5-5161 Kuhio Highway, 哈納雷;restaurantbaracuda.com.

8. Tahiti Nui, 5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; thenui.com.

8. 大溪地酒吧，5-5134 Kuhio Highway，哈納雷;thenui.com.

9. Hanalei Wake Up Cafe, 5-5144 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; hanaleiwakeupcafe.com. Hawaiian Surfing Adventures, 5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; hawaiiansurfingadventures.com.

9. 哈納雷覺醒咖啡館，5-5144 Kuhio Highway，哈納雷;hanaleiwakeupcafe.com。夏威夷沖浪冒險機構，5-5134 Kuhio Highway，哈納雷;hawaiiansurfingadventures.com.

10. Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar, 6011 Koolau Road, Anahola; moloaasunrisejuicebar.com. Paco’s Tacos, 4-1638 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa.

10. Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar, 6011 Koolau Road, Anahola; moloaasunrisejuicebar.com. Paco’s Tacos, 4-1638 Kuhio Highway，卡帕亞。

11. AirVentures Hawaii, 3651 Ahukini Road, Lihue; airventureshawaii.com.

11. AirVentures Hawaii, 3651 Ahukini Road, Lihue; airventureshawaii.com.

12. The Ukulele Store, 5330 Koloa Road, Koloa. TomKat’s Grille, 5402 Koloa Road.

12. 尤克里里商店, 5330 Koloa Road, Koloa. TomKat’s Grille, 5402 Koloa Road.

LODGING

住宿

At the Aston Waimea Plantation Cottages (9400 Kaumualii Highway, Waimea; waimea-plantation.com) 57 restored cottages dot the sprawling grounds of a one-time oceanfront sugar plantation. Rates for a one-bedroom start at $199.

Aston Waimea Plantation Cottages(9400 Kaumualii Highway, Waimea; waimea-plantation.com)由一座廣闊的海濱蔗糖種植園改建而成，里面有57座改建的農舍。床位$199起。

It’s hard to imagine a hotel that takes better advantage of the natural wonders surrounding it than the St. Regis Princeville Resort (5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; stregisprinceville.com). The 252 rooms officially start at $1,100 but are often found online for under $400.

很難想象還有哪座酒店比圣里吉斯普林斯維爾度假村(5520 Ka Haku Road，普林斯維爾;stregisprinceville.com)更擅長利用周圍的自然風光了。村里有252間客房，報價$1100起，但在網上你會發(fā)現(xiàn)實際價格時常降到$400以下。

A quirkier option is the Hanalei Surfboard House (5459 Weke Road, Hanalei; hanaleisurfboardhouse.com), with its three unique rooms; it’s one of the only places to stay within Hanalei’s town limits. From $325 per night, plus a one-time $95 cleaning fee.

更奇趣的選擇是哈納雷沖浪屋(Hanalei Surfboard House，地址是5459 Weke Road，哈納雷;hanaleisurfboardhouse.com)，內有三間獨特的客房。如果你想在哈納雷鎮(zhèn)內住宿，這是僅有的選擇之一。每晚$325起，另收一次性清潔費$95。