哪些面料是最可持續(xù)的?

哪些面料是最可持續(xù)的?

Learn about a fabric's production and disposal in order to make an informed choice while shopping.

了解織物的生產(chǎn)和處理，以便在購物時做出明智的選擇。

CC BY 2.0. Marco Verch

Every piece of clothing has an impact on the environment, but the big question is how much of an impact? Shoppers concerned about the entire life cycle of their clothing should learn about the production process that goes into making fabrics and where they end up after use, as some are harder on the planet than others. The following guide to fabrics is hardly comprehensive, but it’s a good introduction to points worth considering next time you’re out shopping.

每一件衣服都對環(huán)境有影響，但最大的問題是影響有多大?關(guān)心衣服整個生命周期的消費者應(yīng)該了解制作布料的生產(chǎn)過程，以及它們在使用后的位置，因為在這個星球上，有些面料比其他面料更硬。下面的布料指南并不全面，但它是一個很好的介紹，值得你下次外出購物時考慮。

1. LINEN

亞麻

Tradlands -- A comfortable linen button-up shirt/CC BY 2.0

Linen is a plant-based fabric made from flax which can be grown on rough terrain that’s unsuitable for food production. It can be cultivated and processed without chemicals, though this is more commonly found in Europe and less so in China.

亞麻料是一種由亞麻制成的植物面料，它可以生長在不適合糧食生產(chǎn)的不平整的土地上。它可以在不使用化學(xué)物質(zhì)的情況下種植和加工，不過這種情況在歐洲比較常見，在中國較少。

2. COTTON

棉

kelly -- Handmade cotton shirt and jeans (also cotton!)/CC BY 2.0

Cotton is a natural plant-based fiber that makes up a quarter of all fabric used in clothing, furniture, and other textile blends, such as rayon and synthetics. It is a durable, breathable, and highly versatile fabric. It is also biodegradable, which is a huge plus, considering the damage being caused by synthetic fabrics.

棉是一種天然的植物纖維，在所有用于服裝、家具和其他紡織混紡物(如人造絲和合成纖維)的織物中占四分之一。它是一種耐用，透氣，高用途的織物。它也是可生物降解的，考慮到合成纖維的破壞，這是一個巨大的優(yōu)勢。

Cotton, however, uses a tremendous amount of water (3 percent of global water use, according to the UN), pesticides (7 percent of all chemicals used for agriculture in the U.S.), and arable land (2 percent globally). In other words, it’s a resource hog. Organic cotton can improve the chemical effect, but it tends to require more land because crop yields decrease.

然而，棉花消耗了大量的水(根據(jù)聯(lián)合國的數(shù)據(jù)，全球用水的3%)，殺蟲劑(美國農(nóng)業(yè)使用的所有化學(xué)物質(zhì)的7%)和耕地(全球2%)。換句話說，它是一個浪費資源的面料。有機棉花可以提高化學(xué)效應(yīng)，但它往往需要更多的土地，因為作物產(chǎn)量下降。

3. WOOL

羊毛

kelly -- Cozy wool pants/CC BY 1.0

If you’re comfortable with the fact that wool is an animal product, this could be the most environmentally friendly option. Wool is tough, wrinkle-resistant, resilient (which means good at retaining its original shape), and it can “absorb up to 30 percent of its weight in moisture before feeling damp” (Dress Well Do Good). It holds colorful dyes easily, without use of chemicals.

如果你對羊毛是動物產(chǎn)品這一事實感到滿意，這可能是最環(huán)保的選擇。羊毛堅韌、抗皺、有彈性(這意味著它能很好地保持原來的形狀)，而且它能“在感覺潮濕之前吸收其重量的30%的水分”(穿好衣服也行)。它容易攜帶彩色染料，不使用化學(xué)物質(zhì)。

The biggest issue with wool is the methane emissions from burping sheep. An estimated 50 percent of wool’s carbon footprint comes from the sheep themselves, as opposed to other fabric industries whose larger emissions hail from the fabric production process. These sheep, however, are usually raised on non-arable land.

羊毛最大的問題是綿羊排放的甲烷。據(jù)估計，羊毛的碳足跡有50%來自綿羊本身，而其他織物行業(yè)的碳排放量更多來自織物生產(chǎn)過程。然而，這些羊通常是在非耕地上飼養(yǎng)的。

4. RAYON & MODAL

人造絲和莫代爾

Brentano -- A pile of rayon-cotton-polyester blended fabric/CC BY 2.0

These man-made fabrics are made from cellulose. In the case of modal, the cellulose comes from softwood trees, and viscose rayon is usually bamboo. While the raw crop is biodegradable, the chemicals required to transform it into fabric, including carbon disulfide, are unsafe.

這些人造織物是由纖維素制成的。如莫代爾，纖維素來自軟木樹，粘膠人造絲通常是竹子。雖然原料作物是可生物降解的，但將其轉(zhuǎn)化為織物所需的化學(xué)物質(zhì)，包括二硫化碳，是不安全的。

If the fabric is processed mechanically, rather than chemically, it has a much smaller impact. This is called ‘bamboo linen’ but it’s harder to find and more expensive.

如果對織物進行機械加工，而不是化學(xué)加工，其影響要小得多。這被稱為“竹制亞麻”，但它很難找到，也更貴。

5. POLYESTER

聚酯纖維

© Charlie Schuck for Girlfriend Collective

Polyester currently dominates the clothing industry, found in 60 percent of clothing. People like it for its stretchiness, durability, and comfort, but it’s important to remember that it’s a plastic manufactured from crude oil (an energy-intensive process). Even though some manufacturers are adding recycled polyester, often sourced from plastic bottles, to their fabrics, these have the same environmental repercussions as new polyester, which researchers are only just starting to understand.

目前，滌綸在服裝行業(yè)中占主導(dǎo)地位，60%的服裝使用滌綸。人們喜歡它的彈性、耐用性和舒適性，但重要的是要記住，這是一種從原油中制造出來的塑料(一個能源密集型的過程)。盡管一些制造商在他們的織物中加入了可回收的聚酯纖維(通常是從塑料瓶中提取的)，但它們與新聚酯纖維具有同樣的環(huán)境影響，這一點研究人員才剛剛開始了解。

What we know now is that every wash releases plastic microfibers into waterways and these persist indefinitely, contaminating lakes and oceans and getting ingested by animals and, indirectly, by humans.

我們現(xiàn)在知道的是，每次洗滌都會將塑料超細(xì)纖維釋放到水道中，這些纖維會無限期地持續(xù)存在，污染湖泊和海洋，被動物攝入，甚至間接地被人類攝入。