如何避免穿對(duì)工人和環(huán)境有害的衣服

如何避免穿對(duì)工人和環(huán)境有害的衣服

It has been over two years since the horrific Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh. While the memory of that horrific event will not fade, there is a silver lining that has fortunately emerged. A growing number of shoppers are paying attention to where and how their clothing is made, and refusing to support companies who don’t deserve their business. Conscientious consumers are seeking ethical and eco-friendly clothes made by companies whose visions are more in keeping with individual preferences.

孟加拉國(guó)拉納廣場(chǎng)(Rana Plaza)工廠倒塌事件已經(jīng)過(guò)去兩年了。盡管對(duì)這一可怕事件的記憶不會(huì)消失，但幸運(yùn)的是，一線希望已經(jīng)出現(xiàn)。越來(lái)越多的購(gòu)物者開(kāi)始關(guān)注他們的服裝是在哪里和如何制作的，并拒絕支持那些不值得他們經(jīng)營(yíng)的公司。有良知的消費(fèi)者正在尋求合乎道德和環(huán)保的服裝，而這些服裝的制造商的愿景更符合個(gè)人偏好。

CC BY 2.0. Tinou Bao

The only problem is, it can be hard to find such companies. The clothing industry is dominated by fast fashion and big-name brands with huge marketing budgets. They’re in our faces all the time, which makes looking for the truly ethical companies much harder.

唯一的問(wèn)題是，很難找到這樣的公司。服裝行業(yè)由快時(shí)尚和擁有巨額營(yíng)銷預(yù)算的知名品牌主導(dǎo)。他們一直都在我們的面前，這使得尋找真正有道德的公司變得更加困難。

In an excellent YouTube video called “Ethical and Eco Fashion Shopping Tips,” a young Canadian “conscious designer” named Verena Erin shares her thoughts on how to be a smart shopper. She offers plenty of practical tips, some of which I’ll summarize here.

在YouTube上一個(gè)名為“道德與環(huán)保時(shí)尚購(gòu)物小貼士”的優(yōu)秀視頻中，一位名叫Verena Erin的年輕加拿大“有意識(shí)的設(shè)計(jì)師”分享了她如何成為一個(gè)聰明的購(gòu)物者的想法。她提供了許多實(shí)用的技巧，我將在這里總結(jié)其中的一些。

What are your priorities?

你的首要任務(wù)是什么?

Before you even start shopping, you have to know what’s important to you. Assess your personal values. Do you care most about manufacturing? Local production? Sustainable materials? Vegan or cruelty-free products? Fair trade? Organic?

在你開(kāi)始購(gòu)物之前，你必須知道什么對(duì)你來(lái)說(shuō)是重要的。評(píng)估你的個(gè)人價(jià)值。你最關(guān)心制造業(yè)嗎?當(dāng)?shù)厣a(chǎn)嗎?可持續(xù)材料?純素食還是無(wú)殘忍產(chǎn)品?公平貿(mào)易?有機(jī)嗎?

Which clothing attributes are most important?

哪些著裝品質(zhì)最重要?

What do you look for when shopping for clothes? Quality, fit, comfort, price, colour, durability, functionality, style, trend, and pattern/print are all things to consider. Once you narrow down your preferences, it will be easier to know what to look for.

你在買衣服的時(shí)候會(huì)注意什么?質(zhì)量、適合度、舒適度、價(jià)格、顏色、耐用性、功能性、風(fēng)格、趨勢(shì)和圖案/印花都需要考慮。一旦你縮小了你的偏好范圍，你就更容易知道要找什么了。

What do you need?

你需要什么?

Verena Erin recommends keeping an ongoing wish list of items you’ve thought about or need. That way you’re less likely to invest in superfluous things. Don’t be too specific, since that can limit your ability to see the potential in certain items, but it’s good to have approximate categories, i.e. a pair of black jeans or leggings. Strive for a "capsule wardrobe" -- a collection of a few essential items that don't go out of fashion and are eternally versatile.

Verena Erin建議把你想要或需要的物品列一個(gè)愿望清單。這樣你就不太可能在多余的東西上投資。不要說(shuō)得太具體，因?yàn)槟菢訒?huì)限制你看到某些東西的潛力，但有個(gè)大概的分類是好的，比如黑色牛仔褲或打底褲。努力打造一個(gè)“膠囊衣櫥”——收藏一些永不過(guò)時(shí)的必備單品。

Figure out where and how to look.

弄清楚去哪里找，怎么找。

The Internet is the most accessible shopping outlet for everyone. It gives access to a broad range of ethical products, and many companies have filters that make it easier to search. It allows you to research companies and contact them with questions.

互聯(lián)網(wǎng)是每個(gè)人最容易獲得的購(gòu)物渠道。它提供了廣泛的道德產(chǎn)品，許多公司有過(guò)濾器，使搜索更容易。它可以讓你對(duì)公司進(jìn)行調(diào)查，并與他們?nèi)〉寐?lián)系。

Online shopping, however, is problematic if fit is a priority; but then you could consider using a tailor – a service that Verena Erin says is much underused, considering the many different body shapes that cannot possibly be satisfied by sizes on a rack.

然而，如果健康是優(yōu)先考慮的話，網(wǎng)上購(gòu)物就有問(wèn)題了;不過(guò)，你也可以考慮找個(gè)裁縫——Verena Erin說(shuō)，這個(gè)服務(wù)還沒(méi)有得到充分利用，因?yàn)樨浖苌嫌泻芏嗖煌捏w型，尺寸是不可能滿足的。

Shop in person.

親自購(gòu)買

If you live in a city, it is much easier to find stores that specialize in eco-friendly and ethical clothing. If there’s a certain online retailer that you really like, check for lists of stockists in your vicinity.

如果你住在城市里，很容易就能找到專門經(jīng)營(yíng)環(huán)保和合乎道德的服裝的商店。如果你確實(shí)喜歡某家網(wǎng)上零售商，那就檢查一下附近的零售商名單。

Look locally at craft markets, farmers’ markets, or One-of-a-Kind shows. This allows you to talk to people who actually make the products you buy. You can also order custom-made items.

看看當(dāng)?shù)氐墓に嚻肥袌?chǎng)、農(nóng)貿(mào)市場(chǎng)或獨(dú)一無(wú)二的展覽。這可以讓你和那些真正為你制造產(chǎn)品的人交談。你也可以定做產(chǎn)品。

Second-hand stores are great.

二手店也很棒

This is arguably the most sustainable way of shopping, since no extra labour or material is used to make a new garment and your purchase diverts it from landfill. There are different kinds of second-hand stores: thrift, vintage, and consignment (both regular and high-end). There are also places to rent clothes, usually formal attire, which makes sense for those rarely used items.

這可以說(shuō)是最可持續(xù)的購(gòu)物方式，因?yàn)橹谱饕患乱路恍枰~外的勞動(dòng)力或材料，而且你購(gòu)買的衣服可以避免垃圾填埋。二手店有很多種:二手店、古董店和寄售店(包括普通的和高端的)。也有出租衣服的地方，通常是正裝，這對(duì)那些很少使用的東西是有意義的。

There is debate about whether buying second-hand clothes made by unethical brands is appropriate or not. On one hand, your money doesn’t go toward supporting that company, but rather supports the second-hand store that’s selling it. On the other hand, if an item features the company’s name or logo prominently, you are advertising on its behalf, which is a form of support.

關(guān)于購(gòu)買不道德品牌的二手衣服是否合適，存在著爭(zhēng)論。一方面，你的錢不是用來(lái)支持那家公司的，而是用來(lái)支持出售它的二手商店。另一方面，如果一個(gè)商品突出了公司的名字或標(biāo)志，你就是在代表它做廣告，這是一種支持。

Finally:

最后:

Be OK with something that’s not necessarily perfect. And if you can’t find an ethical or eco-friendly option, always go for quality. Don’t hesitate to contact brands you like if they’re dragging their feet toward ethical and environment change. The more consumers speak out, the faster changes will occur.

對(duì)不完美的事情不要苛求。如果你找不到道德或環(huán)保的選擇，那就一直追求質(zhì)量。如果你喜歡的品牌拖著道德和環(huán)境的腳步改變，不要猶豫，聯(lián)系他們。消費(fèi)者越大聲疾呼，變化就會(huì)越快。