循環(huán)時(shí)尚能減少工業(yè)浪費(fèi)嗎?

循環(huán)時(shí)尚能減少工業(yè)浪費(fèi)嗎?

Even if you eschew "fashion," you still wear clothes. And right now, the clothing industry is a mess. What we wear is cheaper than it's ever been, and those low prices lead to tons of waste — literally. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a garbage-truck's worth of textiles is wasted every second.

即使你避開(kāi)“時(shí)尚”，你還是會(huì)穿衣服?，F(xiàn)在，服裝業(yè)一片混亂。我們穿的衣服比以往任何時(shí)候都便宜，而這些低價(jià)導(dǎo)致了大量的浪費(fèi)——真的。根據(jù)艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)的數(shù)據(jù)，每秒鐘就有一輛垃圾車的紡織品被浪費(fèi)掉。

While it's great to donate or recycle your clothes when you're done with them, only about 15 percent of our clothes get made into "shoddy," which is cheap fabric made from ripped up garments, or reused in another way. Less than 5 percent of what's donated makes its way to thrift store shelves. Less than 1 percent of clothing is recycled into new clothing. All the rest is landfilled.

當(dāng)你用完衣服后，將它們捐贈(zèng)或回收利用是件好事，但我們的衣服中只有大約15%被制成了“劣等”，也就是用破衣服制成的廉價(jià)布料，或者以其他方式重復(fù)使用。只有不到5%的捐贈(zèng)物被送到了舊貨商店的貨架上。只有不到1%的衣服被回收制成新衣服。其余的都被填滿了。

If your closet looks like this, you're not alone: The size of the average American wardrobe is five time larger than it was in 1980. . (Photo: Vyacheslav Svetlichnyy/Shutterstock)

Making clothes takes a tremendous amount of energy. Polyester production has doubled in the last 15 years, but polyester is made from oil and gas, which are environmentally costly to extract from the earth, and polyester won't biodegrade. About 30 percent of all clothes are made from cotton, a water-intensive crop that often uses pesticides and insecticides. Dyeing cotton takes more water and chemicals, and then the material is flown around the world to be sewed (sometimes in sweatshop-like conditions) before it's shipped again (burning more fossil fuels) to us in the U.S.

做衣服要耗費(fèi)大量的精力。滌綸的產(chǎn)量在過(guò)去的15年里翻了一番，但是滌綸是從石油和天然氣中提取的，從地球上提取對(duì)環(huán)境來(lái)說(shuō)是昂貴的，而且滌綸不能生物降解。大約30%的衣服是由棉花制成的，棉花是一種耗水作物，經(jīng)常使用殺蟲(chóng)劑和殺蟲(chóng)劑。染色棉需要更多的水和化學(xué)物質(zhì)，然后這些材料被空運(yùn)到世界各地進(jìn)行縫制(有時(shí)是在類似血汗工廠的環(huán)境中)，然后再被運(yùn)輸?shù)矫绹?guó)(燃燒更多的化石燃料)。

'Our textile system is broken'

“我們的紡織系統(tǒng)壞了”

Using figures from 2015, this graphic illustrates the flow of material from production to waste. (Photo: Courtesy Ellen MacArthur Foundation)

Fashion production needs a makeover, and as the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has so boldly stated: "Our textile system is broken." The foundation's mission is to "accelerate the transition to a circular economy," and they recently launched the Circular Fibres Initiative targeting the fashion industry. Stella McCartney, H&M;, Lenzing, NIKE Inc., and more than 30 other organizations have signed on to support the effort.

時(shí)裝生產(chǎn)需要改頭換面，正如艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)所大膽聲明的那樣:“我們的紡織系統(tǒng)已經(jīng)崩潰。”該基金會(huì)的使命是“加快向循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)的轉(zhuǎn)型”，他們最近啟動(dòng)了針對(duì)時(shí)尚行業(yè)的循環(huán)纖維倡議。Stella McCartney, H&M;， Lenzing, NIKE Inc.和其他30多個(gè)組織已經(jīng)簽署支持這項(xiàng)工作。

In this vision for a new textiles economy, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, "clothes would be designed to last longer, be worn more, and be easily rented, resold or recycled, and no toxic substances or pollutants would be released during their production and use."

艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)認(rèn)為，在這一新的紡織經(jīng)濟(jì)愿景中，“服裝將被設(shè)計(jì)得耐穿、耐穿、易于出租、轉(zhuǎn)售或回收，而且在生產(chǎn)和使用過(guò)程中不會(huì)釋放有毒物質(zhì)或污染物。”

This graphic illustrates the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's ambitions for a new textiles economy. (Photo: Courtesy Ellen MacArthur Foundation)

The goal is a no-waste clothing and textiles system. It's possible, but it will require plenty of effort: "New business models, technological innovation, radical collaboration, and most importantly, rapid acceleration are critical steps the report identifies to catalyze this critical transformation,” said Jason Kibbey, the CEO of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition.

其目標(biāo)是建立一個(gè)無(wú)浪費(fèi)的服裝和紡織品系統(tǒng)?？沙掷m(xù)服裝聯(lián)盟的首席執(zhí)行官杰森·基貝說(shuō):“新的商業(yè)模式、技術(shù)創(chuàng)新、激進(jìn)的合作，以及最重要的是，快速加速發(fā)展，這些都是促進(jìn)這一關(guān)鍵轉(zhuǎn)型的關(guān)鍵步驟。”