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什么時候從商店買的比自制的好?

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2020年01月19日

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When is store-bought better than homemade?

什么時候從商店買的比自制的好?

Cooking a meal from scratch can be a truly rewarding experience. It can also make you want to toss up your hands in despair, throw the uncooperative dough in the trash (for the third time) and go get take-out instead. I'm familiar with both of these experiences, and if there's one thing I've learned while cooking, it's that some foods just might not be worth the effort.

從零開始做飯可能是一個真正有益的經(jīng)驗(yàn)。它還會讓你絕望地舉起雙手,(第三次)把不合作的面團(tuán)扔進(jìn)垃圾桶,然后去叫外賣。我對這兩種經(jīng)歷都很熟悉,如果說我在烹飪中學(xué)到了什么,那就是有些食物可能不值得我去努力。

Cooking from scratch is wonderful — if you have the time, patience and inclination. (Photo: Everett Collection/Shutterstock)

Of course, if your idea of a good time is spending hours in the kitchen kneading, punching down and rolling out dough, go for it! But for those of us who like to eat well but don't have any secret ambitions to end up on a certain British baking show anytime soon, there are some foods that are perfectly acceptable to buy from the experts. From puff pastry to ketchup to chips, here's a few foods that probably aren't worth the hours you'll need to churn them out in your kitchen.

當(dāng)然,如果你認(rèn)為在廚房里花幾個小時揉面、打下來、搟面是一種享受,那就去做吧!但是對于我們這些喜歡吃得很好的人來說,又不想在短期內(nèi)參加某個英國烘焙秀,有一些食物是完全可以從專家那里買到的。從酥皮點(diǎn)心到番茄醬再到薯片,下面這些食物可能不值得你花那么多時間在廚房里炮制。

Puff pastry/croissants

泡芙酥皮/起泡面

All those buttery layers require a lot of time, and a lot of work. (Photo: SKopp [CC by SA 3.0]/Wikimedia Commons)

Having watched my fair share of competition baking shows, seeing firsthand how puff pastry is made is both inspiring and exhausting. Similar to phyllo dough, it's a flaky light pastry made from laminated dough. Creating the dough requires not only a chunk of time, but very particular temperatures as well. Stacey Ballis writes in Extra Crispy, "They need everything just right. They are finicky, fussy doughs. They require the perfect atmosphere, lots of time, and you can treat them with kid gloves and they still might fail you."

看了我的公平份額的競爭烘焙節(jié)目,親眼看到如何制作泡芙糕點(diǎn)既鼓舞人心,又令人筋疲力盡。與千層酥皮類似,千層酥皮是一種由層壓面團(tuán)制成的酥皮。制作面團(tuán)不僅需要大量的時間,而且需要非常特殊的溫度。Stacey Ballis在《Extra Crispy》中寫道:“他們需要一切恰到好處。他們是挑剔的、吹毛求疵的人。他們需要完美的氛圍,大量的時間,你可以小心翼翼地對待他們,但他們?nèi)匀豢赡茏屇闶?rdquo;

Ketchup

番茄醬

If you've got the hours and the patience, by all means, go ahead and make that ketchup from scratch! (Photo: Ralf Beier/Shutterstock)

Though I love the idea of a "locally sourced" ketchup at a trendy burger spot, I must admit, the muddy, strongly spiced sauce that I dunk my fries into is usually a disappointment. Writes Tommy Werner in Epicurious: "At restaurants, nothing makes me run to the Heinz faster than reading 'housemade ketchup.'"

雖然我很喜歡在流行的漢堡店買到“本地出產(chǎn)”的番茄醬,但我必須承認(rèn),薯?xiàng)l蘸上的醬汁通常是令人失望的。湯米•維爾納在《美食家》一書中寫道:“在餐館里,沒有什么比閱讀《自制番茄醬》更能讓我奔向亨氏的了。”

Bagels

百吉餅

Bagels must be boiled to get that shiny crust and chewy texture. (Photo: liz west [CC by 2.0]/Flickr)

Many bagel purists believe you can't beat the bagels out of New York City because of the city's soft water. While it's true that the Big Apple's tap water has lower levels of calcium carbonates and magnesium (hard water makes tough gluten, which begets tough bagels), there are even more tricks to the trade.

許多百吉餅純粹主義者認(rèn)為,由于紐約市的軟水,你無法將百吉餅趕出紐約市。雖然紐約的自來水的確含有較低水平的碳酸鈣和鎂(硬水會產(chǎn)生堅(jiān)硬的面筋,從而產(chǎn)生堅(jiān)硬的百吉餅),但這個行業(yè)還有更多的竅門。

Marshmallows

棉花糖

Homemade marshmallows are a labor of love — will your cup of cocoa even appreciate them? (Photo: bigacis/Shutterstock)

Marshmallows are magical chemistry. They are also, dare I say it, not exactly necessary — except when it comes to a traditional Thanksgiving sweet potato casserole. Other than that, I'm not sure what would compel me to spend an afternoon with a couple gelatin packets, candy thermometer and a pizza wheel.

棉花糖是神奇的化學(xué)物質(zhì)。我敢說,除了傳統(tǒng)的感恩節(jié)紅薯砂鍋之外,它們也不是完全必要的。除此之外,我不知道是什么迫使我花一個下午的時間帶著幾包明膠、糖果溫度計(jì)和一個披薩餅。

Chips and crackers

薯片和餅干

The flavor combination of processed chips don't happen by accident — food scientists play a large role in making them taste so irresistible. (Photo: Marco Verch Pro [CC by 2.0]/Flickr)

Crunchy, crispy, heavily seasoned chips are usually not the healthiest snack. Loaded with sodium and fried in oil, they're a lot of labor without the payoff. Even if you wanted to recreate their "can't have just one" addictive flavor profile, you'd probably need a science lab to figure out its exact chemistry.

脆脆的、香脆的、大量調(diào)味的薯片通常不是最健康的零食。它們含鹽量高,用油煎,是一項(xiàng)沒有回報(bào)的勞動。即使你想要重現(xiàn)它們“不能只有一種”上癮的味道,你也可能需要一個科學(xué)實(shí)驗(yàn)室來找出它的確切化學(xué)成分。

Food companies have specifically designed processed foods to be "hyper-palatable," meaning, you'll find it impossible not to eat the whole bag of chips in one sitting. Even Bon Appétit recipe developer Sarah Jampel has written her own love letter to Fritos: "You could substitute your favorite tortilla chips in this soup or fry up your old tortillas on the stovetop. Or, you could accept that Fritos are better than anything you'll concoct at home."

食品公司專門設(shè)計(jì)了“超級美味”的加工食品,這意味著你不可能不吃一整袋薯片。甚至連“祝你胃口好”的食譜開發(fā)者莎拉·詹佩爾也給菲圖斯寫了一封情書:“你可以把你最喜歡的玉米餅片換成這種湯,或者把你的舊玉米餅放在爐子上炸?;蛘?,你可以接受菲力多比你在家做的任何東西都好吃。”


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