拍出好照片 與照相機(jī)無(wú)關(guān)

To say that the photographer Mario Testino, 60, isa frequent traveler is something of anunderstatement. London is his home, but he is ona plane every third day for his jobs around the worldto shoot campaigns for fashion houses like Chaneland portraits such as the official engagementpicture of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

60歲的攝影師馬里奧·特斯蒂諾(Mario Testino)經(jīng)常旅行——這么說(shuō)有點(diǎn)輕描淡寫(xiě)。他家在倫敦，但是為了工作，他每隔三天就要飛往世界各地為香奈兒(Chanel)等服裝公司拍攝廣告照片，或者承接劍橋公爵和公爵夫人的正式訂婚照等人像攝影工作。

 

 

His latest project is the fifth annual Macallan Masters of Photography, an initiative from thewhisky producer based in Craigellachie, Scotland, in which well-known photographers like AnnieLeibovitz and Albert Watson shoot pictures intended to showcase the brand. The assignmenttook Mr. Testino to Beijing. He spent three days at the China Club hotel, a former 17th-centurypalace, photographing his version of a black-tie party inside a whisky club. The Macallan is sellinga limited number of prints of four photographs taken by Mr. Testino along with a bottle ofwhisky that is a blend of a half-dozen single malts (available for $3,500 at premium liquorstores).

他的最新工作是第五屆麥卡倫年度攝影大師項(xiàng)目(Macallan Masters of Photography)，安妮·萊博維茨(Annie Leibovitz)和艾伯特·沃森(Albert Watson)等知名攝影師都為它拍過(guò)照片，該項(xiàng)目是蘇格蘭克萊拉奇的威士忌制造商麥卡倫發(fā)起的，目的是展示這個(gè)品牌。這個(gè)項(xiàng)目把特斯蒂諾帶到了北京。他住在中國(guó)會(huì)酒店，17世紀(jì)，這里曾是一座王府。他在這里呆了三天，拍攝一個(gè)威士忌酒吧里的半正式派對(duì)。麥卡倫公司正在銷(xiāo)售一款限量版組合，內(nèi)容包括特斯蒂諾拍攝的四張照片和一瓶威士忌，這瓶威士忌是用六桶不同風(fēng)味的單一麥芽威士忌混合調(diào)制的(高檔酒類(lèi)專(zhuān)賣(mài)店有售，3500美元)。

Mr. Testino recently visited New York to promote the project and spoke on the rooftop of theGramercy Park Hotel about how a destination informs his work and his tips for taking the idealvacation pictures. Following are edited excerpts.

最近，特斯蒂諾到紐約推廣這個(gè)項(xiàng)目，在格拉梅西公園酒店的屋頂談?wù)撀眯械攸c(diǎn)對(duì)作品的影響，以及拍攝完美度假照片的小貼士。下面的談話(huà)經(jīng)過(guò)節(jié)選。

Q. The final images the Macallan is releasing from your time in Beijing are of people. Wasconveying a sense of place — that you’re in China — important to you?

問(wèn)：關(guān)于你在北京拍攝的那些照片，麥卡倫最后發(fā)布了一組人物照片。傳達(dá)地域感——表明你是在中國(guó)——這一點(diǎn)對(duì)你來(lái)說(shuō)重要嗎?

A. I started off with the intention of showing the surroundings of the China Club, but when Isaw all the people together, it felt more exciting for me that it wasn’t so well defined wherethey were. They could be anywhere, and I liked leaving that door open.

答：最初我是想展示中國(guó)會(huì)酒店的環(huán)境，但當(dāng)我看到所有這些人在一起時(shí)，我覺(jué)得不明確表現(xiàn)他們?cè)谀膬焊钗遗d奮。他們可能是在任何地方，我喜歡留下一些想像空間。

That being said, conveying a sense of place is important to me in my work. I love through mypictures to be able to travel through different continents and different social classes, but it’snot always necessary. In this particular case, the characters were so well defined that I feltthat the place might be one element too many so I ended up not showing the environment somuch.

話(huà)雖如此，但傳達(dá)地域感對(duì)我的作品很重要。我喜歡人們能夠通過(guò)我的照片游歷不同的大陸和社會(huì)階層，但它并不總是必要的。在這個(gè)項(xiàng)目中，這些人物已經(jīng)有清晰界定了，我覺(jué)得再加上地點(diǎn)這個(gè)元素就太多了，所以我最終決定不展示那么多環(huán)境。

I have worked in Beijing several times before and love the energy of the city and the blend ofhistorical and modern.

我之前去北京工作過(guò)幾次，我很喜歡那座城市的活力以及它對(duì)歷史和現(xiàn)代的融合。

Since you’re not a landscape photographer, how much does the destination really influenceyour work?

問(wèn)：你不是風(fēng)光攝影師，所以地點(diǎn)對(duì)你的作品真的有很大影響嗎?

Interestingly enough, sometimes people will say to me that I don’t need to travel for some ofmy projects because the destination isn’t relevant, but I’m so excited by different places thattraveling just triggers my imagination. It’s almost an obsession to be in the right place for theright image.

答：有趣的是，有時(shí)人們對(duì)我說(shuō)，我的某些項(xiàng)目不需要旅行，因?yàn)榈攸c(diǎn)無(wú)關(guān)緊要，但不同的地點(diǎn)會(huì)讓我興奮，旅行能激發(fā)我的想像力。在合適的地方拍攝合適的影像幾乎是我的強(qiáng)迫癥。

Do you have a favorite city to work in?

問(wèn)：有沒(méi)有哪座城市是你特別喜歡在那里工作的?

I love Rio, Berlin and Naples, but London, New York City and Los Angeles are the places I go themost, and they are easy because they are geared for my sort of work. Like in L.A., for example,because it’s the heart of the film world, anything you want for a shoot is there whether it’s aSpanish villa or certain kinds of clothes. Not all places are so easy. They might not havelocation vans for hair and makeup, which are important in shoots, and you have to make dowith the choices for wardrobe.

答：里約熱內(nèi)盧、柏林和那不勒斯，但是倫敦、紐約和洛杉磯是我去得最多的城市，在這幾個(gè)城市拍攝很方便，因?yàn)樗鼈兒苓m合我這種工作。比如洛杉磯，它是電影中心，那兒有攝影需要的任何東西，不管是西班牙別墅還是某種服裝。不是所有的地方都這么方便。有的地方可能沒(méi)有可以用來(lái)放假發(fā)和化妝品的外景車(chē)，這些東西在拍攝時(shí)很重要，那樣你就只能用衣櫥里的東西將就。

What advice do you have for travelers who want to make sure they get the best pictures fromtheir trip? Are good shots about having the right camera?

問(wèn)：對(duì)于那些想在旅行中拍到最好照片的旅行者，你有什么建議?拍好照片跟相機(jī)有關(guān)嗎?

You don’t need a fancy camera to be able to capture anything. The one on your phone is goodenough; that’s what I use when I’m not working. Getting the right pictures is about openingyour eyes to see what’s magical about a place. I just photographed the city from a window onthis floor and saw all these buildings lit in a beautiful way, which is so New York. But the magicis different depending on where you are. It could be the people, the landscape, the animals oreven the candle in the room. You just have to be curious, and you’ll find it.

答：不管拍什么，你都不需要好相機(jī)。你的手機(jī)相機(jī)就夠好了，我不工作時(shí)也是用它拍照。拍到好照片最重要的是睜開(kāi)眼睛發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)地方的神奇之處。我就透過(guò)這層樓的一個(gè)窗戶(hù)拍攝這座城市，看著這些建筑如此優(yōu)美地排列，覺(jué)得它們非常具有紐約特色。不過(guò)你所在的地方不同，它的神奇之處也不同?？赡苁侨恕L(fēng)景或動(dòng)物，甚至是房間的蠟燭。只要你充滿(mǎn)好奇心，就會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)它。

When you’re not traveling professionally, where do you vacation, and how often are you takingpictures?

問(wèn)：你不出差時(shí)去哪兒度假?度假時(shí)經(jīng)常拍照嗎?

I go on holiday about twice a year and generally to Brazil or to home in Peru. I take very fewphotographs.

答：我一年度假兩次，通常是去巴西或者回秘魯老家。我?guī)缀醪慌恼铡?/p>

What are your travel essentials?

問(wèn)：哪些東西是你的旅行必需品?

If it’s a personal trip, I don’t really have any. I’m pretty low-maintenance. When I’m going forwork, it’s my assistants — I have a half dozen who travel with me. If I do a shoot, I have to editthe job on the plane right after, and when I land, I have to start doing the retouching. Todaywe work digitally so everything is raw, and you have to determine if you want the picture blue,green, red, contrasting or not, dark or light. There’s a lot to do, and I’m always surrounded bypeople who are helping me.

答：如果是私人旅行，我?guī)缀鯖](méi)有必需品。我很好養(yǎng)活。我去工作時(shí)，必須帶助手，有六個(gè)助手跟我一起旅行。如果拍攝的話(huà)，我必須在結(jié)束后到飛機(jī)上馬上剪輯，落地后就開(kāi)始潤(rùn)色?，F(xiàn)在我們都用數(shù)碼相機(jī)拍照，所以一切都是未加工的，你必須在拍攝后才決定照片要什么色調(diào)——藍(lán)色、綠色或紅色——是否要增加對(duì)比色，是要暗色還是亮色。這要做很多工作，我周?chē)偸怯腥嗽趲臀摇?/p>

Is jet lag an issue for you?

問(wèn)：時(shí)差對(duì)你來(lái)說(shuō)是個(gè)問(wèn)題嗎?

I am very lucky it isn’t. I can sleep at anytime and anywhere, but I do need my eight hours.

答：我很幸運(yùn)，時(shí)差對(duì)我來(lái)說(shuō)不是問(wèn)題。我隨時(shí)隨地都能睡，不過(guò)我的確需要睡夠八小時(shí)。