It is the year 1926. The Vistula River now no longer turns at the Wawel Hill and plunges straight through the Krakow plain, dividing the city of Kazimierz from the city of Krakow, but instead swings far to the left and surrounds the whole plain, now the new city. The castles and towers and cathedral of the Wawel still rise proudly on the hill, as in former days; St. Andrew's, which has defied fire, siege, and war for eight centuries, raises its head—two towers—above Grodzka Street; the old Cloth Hall, beautified during the Renaissance, still stands in the middle of the central Rynek. And although the glory of former days is departed from the city and kings no longer sit in the castle on the hill, there has come with the years the growth of a new glory, the glory of culture as seen in the university of fourteenth-century origin, in the schools of fine arts and music and handicraft and trade. From all Poland come students to study and to live in this venerable city, which is Gothic in every corner and every gable save where here and there a bit of Romanesque wall or arch has survived the Tartar, or the Cossack, or the Swede.
But the chief glory of the city is the Church of Our Lady Mary. It no longer stands apart, a monument visible from afar as of old—other palaces and buildings have shut it in, and one sees its towers only, until one is close upon it. Then the sudden magnificenceleaps upon the visitor. A splendid silence lurking in its high roof descends suddenly, like the thousands of pigeons that thunder down for particles of bread. Beneath one's feet is the old city cemetery; there on the walls are the tablets and shrines; there at the south doorway are the iron collars that once clasped the throats of petty criminals as they stood supplicating the prayers and pennies of the faithful. Inside, the church is a veritable miracle of beauty. Above its exquisite wood carvings and choir rises a vaulted roof of sky blue, studded with stars. Images of stone look down from breaks in the Gothic fluting—tablets, banners, altars, shrines—all strike alike upon the sight in amazing beauty.
But listen: is the organ playing? Whence come those notes that float down from above like God's own music from heaven? They come from the towers, for the hour is striking on the bell, and a trumpeter is playing at one of the open tower windows. And that tune? It is the Heynal, the same tune played by a young man so many centuries ago, when the Tartars burned the city—and listen, the trumpeter breaks off his song in the middle of a note.... Four times he sounds the Heynal, once at each of the four windows, west, south, east, north. And many a man or woman or child on hearing that song thinks of the days when the young life was given to country and God and duty.... Poland has been through many fires since that time—she has had centuries of war, a century of extinction. But in all that time the Heynal has sounded with each passing hour and men have sworn each year to keep the custom unto the very end of time. Hark, it is sounding now.
May it bring in an epoch of peace to all men!
END OF BOOK
時(shí)光飛轉(zhuǎn),已是一九二六年。維斯瓦河已經(jīng)不再繞過(guò)瓦維爾山,徑直俯沖下克拉科夫平原,將克拉科夫城和卡濟(jì)米爾城分割開(kāi)來(lái),而是奔騰到最西邊,圍繞著整個(gè)大平原,形成了一座新的城市。城堡、高塔和瓦維爾大教堂依舊如往常一樣,驕傲地屹立在山上;幾個(gè)世紀(jì)以來(lái),圣安德魯大教堂經(jīng)歷了大火的考驗(yàn)、戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)的洗禮以及敵人的圍攻,依然聳立在格羅茲卡大街上;老布樓被文藝復(fù)興時(shí)期的能工巧匠雕琢得煥然一新,仍然位于中央廣場(chǎng)的正中間。盡管這座城市已經(jīng)摘掉了舊時(shí)的光環(huán),國(guó)王也已經(jīng)不再居于山上的城堡,然而時(shí)間賦予了這座城市新的榮耀,建立于十四世紀(jì)的大學(xué)以及各種美術(shù)、音樂(lè)、手工和貿(mào)易學(xué)校讓這座古老的城市彌漫著濃厚的學(xué)術(shù)氣息,吸引著波蘭各地的學(xué)生們到這座莊嚴(yán)的城市求學(xué)生活。城市的每個(gè)角落都是哥特風(fēng)格的建筑,隨處可見(jiàn)逃過(guò)韃靼人、哥薩克人或瑞典人蹂躪的羅馬風(fēng)格的墻垣或拱門。
不過(guò),這座城市最主要的榮耀還是來(lái)自圣瑪利亞教堂。原本從很遠(yuǎn)就能夠被看到的大教堂如今已經(jīng)被宮殿和建筑物重重包圍,從遠(yuǎn)處只能看到它的兩個(gè)塔尖。然而,當(dāng)你慢慢靠近,就會(huì)被它的恢宏氣勢(shì)所震撼。它的靜穆隱匿于高頂之上,在靠近時(shí)愈顯凝重,仿佛成千上萬(wàn)只鴿子為搶食面包屑突然從四處一哄而下,給人一種壓迫感。教堂下方是老城原來(lái)的墓地所在,外墻上供奉著墓碑和神龕,南門口還掛著緊勒罪犯喉嚨的套索,罪犯?jìng)冊(cè)?jīng)站在那里請(qǐng)求上帝原諒并向虔誠(chéng)的教徒們乞討。教堂里面更是美輪美奐、名不虛傳。四處都是精美的木雕,順著廊柱抬頭望去,是天藍(lán)色的穹頂,上面還裝點(diǎn)著星星。每個(gè)哥特式的凹槽處都有一座向下張望的石像——石碑、旗幟、圣壇、神龕,讓整個(gè)教堂顯得神圣而美麗。
聽(tīng)!是有人在吹奏樂(lè)曲嗎?哪里飄來(lái)一串音符,仿佛天堂傳來(lái)的上帝之聲?那是從高塔傳來(lái)的,此時(shí)教堂的鐘正在鳴響,吹號(hào)手在高塔的窗口吹起音樂(lè)。這是什么曲子?正是《海那圣歌》,幾個(gè)世紀(jì)之前韃靼大軍燒毀這座城市時(shí),一位年輕人吹奏的就是這首曲子——聽(tīng),號(hào)手在樂(lè)曲中途就突然停止了吹奏……他吹了四次《海那圣歌》,對(duì)著東、西、南、北四個(gè)方向的窗口各吹一次。聽(tīng)到號(hào)聲響起之時(shí),無(wú)論男女老少,都會(huì)想起年輕人堅(jiān)守職責(zé)、為國(guó)捐軀的那段日子……從那時(shí)起,波蘭經(jīng)歷了無(wú)數(shù)戰(zhàn)火,幾個(gè)世紀(jì)的戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng),百年的沉淪。但《海那圣歌》每個(gè)小時(shí)都會(huì)被吹響,從未間斷,每年都有人宣誓要至死不渝地履行職責(zé)。聽(tīng)吧,它現(xiàn)在又響起了。
愿它為人類帶來(lái)和平!
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