Towards three o'clock in the afternoon of one October day in the year 1844, a man of sixty or thereabouts, whom anybody might have credited with more than his actual age, was walking along the Boulevard des Italiens with his head bent down, as if he were tracking some one. There was a smug expression about the mouth—he looked like a merchant who has just done a good stroke of business, or a bachelor emerging from a boudoir in the best of humors with himself; and in Paris this is the highest degree of self-satisfaction ever registered by a human countenance. As soon as the elderly person appeared in the distance, a smile broke out over the faces of the frequenters of the boulevard, who daily, from their chairs, watch the passers-by, and indulge in the agreeable pastime of analyzing them. That smile is peculiar to Parisians; it says so many things—ironical, quizzical, pitying; but nothing save the rarest of human curiosities can summon that look of interest to the faces of Parisians, sated as they are with every possible sight.
A saying recorded of Hyacinthe, an actor celebrated for his repartees, will explain the archaeological value of the old gentleman, and the smile repeated like an echo by all eyes. Somebody once asked Hyacinthe where the hats were made that set the house in a roar as soon as he appeared. "I don't have them made," he said; "I keep them!" So also among the million actors who make up the great troupe of Paris, there are unconscious Hyacinthes who "keep" all the absurd freaks of vanished fashions upon their backs; and the apparition of some bygone decade will startle you into laughter as you walk the streets in bitterness of soul over the treason of one who was your friend in the past.
In some respects the passer-by adhered so faithfully to the fashions of the year 1806, that he was not so much a burlesque caricature as a reproduction of the Empire period. To an observer, accuracy of detail in a revival of this sort is extremely valuable, but accuracy of detail, to be properly appreciated, demands the critical attention of an expert flaneur; while the man in the street who raises a laugh as soon as he comes in sight is bound to be one of those outrageous exhibitions which stare you in the face, as the saying goes, and produce the kind of effect which an actor tries to secure for the success of his entry. The elderly person, a thin, spare man, wore a nut-brown spencer over a coat of uncertain green, with white metal buttons. A man in a spencer in the year 1844! it was as if Napoleon himself had vouchsafed to come to life again for a couple of hours.
The spencer, as its name indicates, was the invention of an English lord, vain, doubtless, of his handsome shape. Some time before the Peace of Amiens, this nobleman solved the problem of covering the bust without destroying the outlines of the figure and encumbering the person with the hideous boxcoat, now finishing its career on the backs of aged hackney cabmen; but, elegant figures being in the minority, the success of the spencer was short-lived in France, English though it was. At the sight of the spencer, men of forty or fifty mentally invested the wearer with top-boots, pistachio-colored kerseymere small clothes adorned with a knot of ribbon; and beheld themselves in the costumes of their youth. Elderly ladies thought of former conquests; but the younger men were asking each other why the aged Alcibiades had cut off the skirts of his overcoat. The rest of the costume was so much in keeping with the spencer, that you would not have hesitated to call the wearer "an Empire man," just as you call a certain kind of furniture "Empire furniture;" yet the newcomer only symbolized the Empire for those who had known that great and magnificent epoch at any rate de visu, for a certain accuracy of memory was needed for the full appreciation of the costume, and even now the Empire is so far away that not every one of us can picture it in its Gallo-Grecian reality.
The stranger's hat, for instance, tipped to the back of his head so as to leave almost the whole forehead bare, recalled a certain jaunty air, with which civilians and officials attempted to swagger it with military men; but the hat itself was a shocking specimen of the fifteen-franc variety. Constant friction with a pair of enormous ears had left their marks which no brush could efface from the underside of the brim; the silk tissue (as usual) fitted badly over the cardboard foundation, and hung in wrinkles here and there; and some skin-disease (apparently) had attacked the nap in spite of the hand which rubbed it down of a morning.
Beneath the hat, which seemed ready to drop off at any moment, lay an expanse of countenance grotesque and droll, as the faces which the Chinese alone of all people can imagine for their quaint curiosities. The broad visage was as full of holes as a colander, honeycombed with the shadows of the dints, hollowed out like a Roman mask. It set all the laws of anatomy at defiance. Close inspection failed to detect the substructure. Where you expected to find a bone, you discovered a layer of cartilaginous tissue, and the hollows of an ordinary human face were here filled out with flabby bosses. A pair of gray eyes, red-rimmed and lashless, looked forlornly out of a countenance which was flattened something after the fashion of a pumpkin, and surmounted by a Don Quixote nose that rose out of it like a monolith above a plain. It was the kind of nose, as Cervantes must surely have explained somewhere, which denotes an inborn enthusiasm for all things great, a tendency which is apt to degenerate into credulity. And yet, though the man's ugliness was something almost ludicrous, it aroused not the slightest inclination to laugh. The exceeding melancholy which found an outlet in the poor man's faded eyes reached the mocker himself and froze the gibes on his lips; for all at once the thought arose that this was a human creature to whom Nature had forbidden any expression of love or tenderness, since such expression could only be painful or ridiculous to the woman he loved. In the presence of such misfortune a Frenchman is silent; to him it seems the most cruel of all afflictions—to be unable to please!
一八四四年十月,有一天下午三點光景,一個六十來歲而看上去要老得多的男人,在意大利大街上走過。他探著鼻子,假作正經(jīng)地抿著嘴,好像一個商人剛做了筆好買賣,或是一個單身漢沾沾自喜地從內(nèi)客室走出來。在巴黎,這是一個人把心中的得意流露得最充分的表示。那些每天待在街上,坐在椅子里以打量過路人為消遣的家伙[1],遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)地一瞧見這老人,都透出一點兒巴黎人特有的笑容;這笑容包含許多意思,或是訕笑,或是諷刺,或是同情??墒前屠枞藢π涡紊膱雒嬉部茨伭?,一定要遇到頭等怪物,臉上才會有點兒表情。
那老頭兒在考古學(xué)上的價值,以及大家眼中那一點笑意,像回聲般一路傳過去的笑意,只要一句話就能說明。有人問過以說俏皮話出名的戲子伊阿桑德,他那些博得哄堂大笑的帽子在哪兒定做的。他回答說:“我沒有定做啊,只是保存在那兒?!睂?!巴黎上百萬的居民其實都可以說是戲子,其中有好多人無意中全做了伊阿桑德,在身上保留著某一時代的一切可笑之處,儼然是整個時代的化身,使你在大街上溜達(dá)的時候,便是想著給朋友欺騙那一類的傷心事,也不由得要撲哧一聲笑出來。
那過路人的服裝,連某些小地方都十足保存著一八〇六年代的款式,所以它讓你想起帝政時代而并不覺得有漫畫氣息。就憑這點兒細(xì)膩,有眼光的人才知道這一類令人懷古的景象更有價值??墒且w會那些小枝節(jié),你的分析能力必須像逛馬路的老資格一樣,如今人家老遠(yuǎn)看了就笑,可見那走路人必有些怪模怪樣。像俗語所說的撲上你的眼睛,那也正是演員們苦心研究,希望一露臉就得個滿堂彩的。原來這又干又瘦的老人,在綴著白銅紐扣的、半綠不綠的大褂外面,套著一件沒有下擺的栗色短褂,叫作斯賓塞的!……一八四四年上還看到一個穿斯賓塞的男人,豈不像拿破侖復(fù)活了一下嗎?
顧名思義,斯賓塞的確是那位想賣弄細(xì)腰身的英國勛爵的創(chuàng)作。遠(yuǎn)在一八〇二年亞眠安和會之前,這英國人就把大氅的問題給解決了:既能遮蓋胸部,又不至于像笨重而惡俗的卡列克那樣埋沒一個人的身腰,這種衣服如今只有車行里的老馬夫還拿來披在肩上[2]。但因細(xì)腰身的人為數(shù)不多,所以斯賓塞雖是英國款式,在法國走紅的時間也并不久。那些四五十歲的人,看到有人穿著斯賓塞,自然而然會在腦筋里給他補(bǔ)充上一條絲帶扎腳的綠短褲,一雙翻筒長靴,跟他們年輕的時候一模一樣!老太太們見了,也得回想起當(dāng)年紅極一時的盛況??墒且话隳贻p的人就要覺得奇怪:為什么這個老阿契皮阿特要割掉他外套的尾巴呢[3]?總之,那個人渾身上下都跟斯賓塞配得那么相稱,你會毫不猶豫地叫他作帝政時代的人物,正如我們叫什么帝政時代的家具一樣。但只有熟悉那個光華燦爛的時代的,至少親眼見過的人,才會覺得那走路人是帝政時代的象征;因為要辨別服裝,必須有相當(dāng)真切的記憶力。帝政時代跟我們已經(jīng)離得那么遠(yuǎn),要想象它那種法國希臘式[4]的實際場面,絕不是每個人所能辦到的。
他帽子戴得很高,差不多把整個的腦門露在外面,這種昂昂然的氣概,便是當(dāng)年的文官和平民特意裝出來對抗軍人的氣焰的。并且那還是一頂十四法郎的怕人的絲帽子,帽檐的反面給又高又大的耳朵印上兩個半白不白的、刷也刷不掉的印子。帽坯上照例膠得很馬虎的絲片子,好幾處都亂糟糟地粘在一塊兒,盡管天天早上給修整一次,還像害了大麻風(fēng)似的。
仿佛要掉下來的帽子底下,露出一張臉,滑稽可笑的模樣,唯有中國人才會想出來,去燒成那些丑八怪的瓷器。闊大的麻子臉像個腳爐蓋,凹下去的肉窟窿成為許多陰影;高的高,低的低,像羅馬人的面具,把解剖學(xué)上的規(guī)則全打破了。一眼望去,竟找不著臉架子。應(yīng)當(dāng)長骨頭的地方,卻來上一堆果子凍似的肉;該有窩兒的部分,又偏偏鼓起軟綿綿的肉疙瘩。這張怪臉給壓成了南瓜的形狀,配上一對灰眼睛——眉毛的地位只有兩道紅線——更顯得凄涼;整個的臉被一個堂·吉訶德式的鼻子[5]鎮(zhèn)住了,像平原上的一座飛來峰。這鼻子,想必塞萬提斯也曾注意到,表示一個人天生地?zé)釔垡磺袀ゴ蟮氖?,而結(jié)果是著了迷。那副丑相,盡管很滑稽,可絕對不會教人發(fā)笑??蓱z蟲蒼白的眼中有一股極凄涼的情調(diào),會教開玩笑的人把到了嘴邊的刻薄話重新咽下去。你會覺得造物是不許這老頭兒表示什么溫情的,要是犯了禁,就得教女人發(fā)笑或是難受??吹竭@種不幸,連法國人也不作聲了,他們覺得人生最大的苦難就是不能博得女人的歡心!
注解:
[1] 按此系指坐咖啡館的巴黎人??Х茸可煺怪寥诵械溃恃源诮稚?。
[2] 叫作斯賓塞的短褂,有如現(xiàn)代的夏季禮服,原系英國的約翰·查理·斯賓塞勛爵創(chuàng)作。叫作卡列克的外氅,相傳為英人約翰·卡列克所創(chuàng),上半身披肩部分長至手腕,共有兩三疊之多,故極厚重。
[3] 希臘政治家阿契皮阿特,為蘇格拉底弟子,以生活奢豪聞于世,眾人盛稱其所畜之名犬,阿氏即將犬尾割去,俾眾人不復(fù)提及。
[4] 拿破侖稱帝時,提倡希臘羅馬的文物與風(fēng)格,當(dāng)時的美術(shù)、家具、服裝,均帶希臘風(fēng)味,美術(shù)史上稱為法國希臘式(Gallo-Grecian)。
[5] 堂·吉訶德身體又高又瘦。根據(jù)一般情形,臉相大多與全身調(diào)和,故堂·吉訶德的鼻子一定也是很長的。
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