谷歌和Levi's合作的智能牛仔裝會(huì)紅嗎？

09 谷歌和Levi's合作的智能牛仔裝會(huì)紅嗎？

谷歌與李維斯（Levi's）合作研發(fā)的智能夾克預(yù)定2017年春季推出，它屬于新一代科技時(shí)尚化的可穿戴產(chǎn)品。時(shí)尚界曾經(jīng)在知名品牌的一次性服裝上試驗(yàn)高科技，但無(wú)法實(shí)現(xiàn)大規(guī)模市場(chǎng)化應(yīng)用。迄今為止，對(duì)此類高科技時(shí)裝的市場(chǎng)認(rèn)同度仍然相當(dāng)?shù)汀？萍紩r(shí)尚化究竟前景如何？

保羅·狄林格(Paul Dillinger)站在牛仔裝生產(chǎn)商李維斯異常悶熱的新裝試驗(yàn)室里，正在試穿一件牛仔夾克新樣裝。這件牛仔裝專為自行車(chē)運(yùn)動(dòng)員打造：防止參賽車(chē)手露出后背的圓尾形后擺以及防止竄風(fēng)的防風(fēng)式袖口，這款牛仔夾克猶如從天而降的魔杖，無(wú)所不能。

“看看這件新裝今天能施展什么魔法？”他敲擊著左胳膊笑問(wèn)道，傳感器縫進(jìn)了牛仔面料中，變幻顏色的光束照射到了衣服袖口處。

袖口也如同被施了魔法：內(nèi)置的高科技能讓車(chē)手實(shí)現(xiàn)從接聽(tīng)電話到查詢方位的各項(xiàng)功能。車(chē)手可以用自己的智能手機(jī)對(duì)夾克進(jìn)行設(shè)置，夾克就能識(shí)別出車(chē)手最常用的電話聯(lián)系人；通過(guò)谷歌地圖提供的具體方位信息，車(chē)手可以輕擊或重?fù)粜淇趤?lái)發(fā)送大約何時(shí)到家的短信。

Now some fashion houses are starting to form partnerships with technology companies.Tech manufacturers are teaching fashion companies about how to make chips and batteries thin, while fashion houses are teaching techies about the trials of making many sizes and ensuring a teched-up garment is fit to launder.Chipmaker Intel has worked with watchmakers Fossil and Tag Heuer and eyewear company Luxottica, while fitness-tracker maker Fitbit has teamed up with both Tory Burch and clothing company Public School.

如今一些時(shí)尚品牌開(kāi)始與科技類公司建立合作關(guān)系。科技類公司向時(shí)裝公司傳授制作小型芯片與電池的技術(shù)，而時(shí)裝公司則向?qū)Ψ絺魇谠O(shè)計(jì)不同型號(hào)時(shí)裝以及確保高科技時(shí)裝耐洗的訣竅。芯片生產(chǎn)商英特爾聯(lián)手Fossil、豪雅等腕表品牌以及全球最大的眼鏡公司Luxottica，而穿戴式健身追蹤器生產(chǎn)商Fitbit與湯麗柏琦以及時(shí)裝品牌Public School成了合作伙伴。

Earlier this month during New York Fashion Week Michael Kors announced its first foray into wearable tech.In partnership with Google, the brand has unveiled a smart watch based on its bestselling analogue collection.The new Dylan and Bradshaw models include features such as notification functions, maps, and a voice-directed Google search facility.It will retail for ￡329.

九月初的紐約時(shí)裝周期間，邁克·科爾斯首次宣布進(jìn)軍高科技可穿戴設(shè)備領(lǐng)域。在自己最暢銷的analogue指針系列手表基礎(chǔ)上，它與谷歌合作推出了一款智能腕表。最新推出的Dylan男表與Bradshaw女表?yè)碛型ㄖ?、地圖以及語(yǔ)音定向谷歌探索等功能，其零售價(jià)為329英鎊。

For Sidney Chang, the principal of business development at Google, these collaborations are an essential part of the company's future.“We're very nimble,” he explained during the launch last week.“We've already partnered with Fossil, Tag Heuer and Nixon on smartwatches, but each brand represents a different customer and a different set of criteria.We love the diversity of working with different brands, and developing wearables that reflect your identity.”

在谷歌業(yè)務(wù)開(kāi)發(fā)部主管Sidney Chang看來(lái)，與時(shí)尚公司的合作對(duì)谷歌未來(lái)的發(fā)展至關(guān)重要。“我們會(huì)伺機(jī)而動(dòng)?！痹诓痪们暗男缕钒l(fā)布會(huì)上，他這樣說(shuō)道，“谷歌已與Fossil、豪雅以及Nixon合推了智能腕表，但每個(gè)品牌又代表了各自不同的消費(fèi)群體與技術(shù)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。我們喜歡與風(fēng)格各異的不同品牌合作，研發(fā)反映品牌自身特色的可穿戴產(chǎn)品?！?/p>

If Google Glass was an excellent example of a great idea that looked tragically uncool, these new collaborations should go some way to bridging the gulf between function and fashionability.Google gets access to a younger, more image-focused market and all the benefits of a high-end marketing campaign.The fashion house gets to bring its brand to life in new ways, to a new audience.Everyone wins.

如果說(shuō)谷歌眼鏡是絕妙的想法開(kāi)發(fā)成土里土氣產(chǎn)品的“典范”，那么高科技公司與時(shí)尚品牌的珠聯(lián)璧合或多或少?gòu)浹a(bǔ)了功能與時(shí)尚之間的鴻溝。谷歌的受眾是那些形象至上的年輕人，也是高端營(yíng)銷活動(dòng)的最大受益者。時(shí)尚公司實(shí)現(xiàn)了品牌的脫胎換骨，又增加了新的消費(fèi)群體，這對(duì)雙方來(lái)說(shuō)是雙贏之舉。

Google was also Levis' partner in developing the cycling jacket, bringing together Google's Advanced Technology and Projects team in Silicon Valley, with the brand's in-house skunk works.Dillinger, Levi's global product innovation lead, says the partnership worked because Google came willing to learn from Levi's as much as the other way round.

谷歌也是李維斯牛仔研發(fā)自行車(chē)手夾克外套的合作者，谷歌位于硅谷的前沿科技攻關(guān)小組與李維斯的研發(fā)團(tuán)隊(duì)實(shí)現(xiàn)了珠聯(lián)璧合。李維斯產(chǎn)品創(chuàng)新部全球主管狄林格說(shuō)雙方的合作之所以成功，是因?yàn)殡p方都愿意從對(duì)方身上取長(zhǎng)補(bǔ)短。

李維斯副總裁保羅·狄林格

“We had the best capabilities of the two companies frankly,” says Dillinger.“We are not very good at technology and they are not very good at garments.”

“平心而論，我們實(shí)現(xiàn)了集雙方之優(yōu)點(diǎn)于一身。”狄林格說(shuō)，“高科技并非我們的強(qiáng)項(xiàng)，而服裝也不是谷歌的強(qiáng)項(xiàng)?！?/p>

時(shí)尚與科技越發(fā)親密無(wú)間，造就了更為時(shí)尚的可穿戴產(chǎn)品，但普通服裝實(shí)現(xiàn)科技化依然任重而道遠(yuǎn)。

Fashion has been experimenting with technology in high profile one-off garments for a while.But it has not yet brought that technology to a larger market.People were wowed by the Marchesa dress — developed with IBM's artificial intelligence system, Watson — that changed colour when people tweeted.Make Fashion, a group of Canadian artists and engineers, have spent five years creating playful designs such as “Gamer Girls” dresses — where the dress changes depending on whether they win or lose.But thus far widespread uptake of such technologies has been slow.

時(shí)尚界曾經(jīng)在知名品牌的一次性服裝上試驗(yàn)高科技，但無(wú)法實(shí)現(xiàn)大規(guī)模市場(chǎng)化應(yīng)用。IBM使用Watson人工智能系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)的瑪切薩裙子讓時(shí)尚擁躉驚嘆不已，它能根據(jù)Twitter用戶的情緒變化實(shí)時(shí)變換顏色。由加拿大一些藝術(shù)家與工程師組成的團(tuán)隊(duì)Make Fashion花了五年時(shí)間設(shè)計(jì)“Gamer Girls”這類妙趣橫生的女裙——它能根據(jù)輸贏結(jié)果變換顏色。但迄今為止，對(duì)此類高科技時(shí)裝的市場(chǎng)認(rèn)同度仍然相當(dāng)?shù)汀?/p>

Carolina Milanesi, a consumer technology analyst at Silicon Valley market research firm Creative Strategies, says the tech industry has failed to make wearables fashionable enough to expand beyond a niche of — often male — early adopters.“Technology doesn't do gender differentiation very well so far.You don't need it when a PC is a PC — and you don't need to change it if I'm a man or a woman — but it is different if I'm wearing it,” she said.

硅谷市場(chǎng)分析公司Creative Strategies消費(fèi)科技分析師卡羅琳娜·米拉內(nèi)西說(shuō)，科技在實(shí)現(xiàn)可穿戴產(chǎn)品時(shí)尚化方面令人失望，接受者仍然僅限先期踐行者這一小撮人而已（通常為男性）?！捌駷橹?，科技在性別差異化方面做得仍不盡如人意。就事論事時(shí)無(wú)需分析性別差異——也無(wú)需因性別而改動(dòng)數(shù)據(jù)，但穿戴后的效果就大相徑庭了?！彼f(shuō)。

當(dāng)購(gòu)物不再依靠賣(mài)相，而是越來(lái)越成為“情緒化產(chǎn)物”時(shí)，科技時(shí)尚化（即讓科技更美觀或無(wú)形化）也會(huì)助銷售以一臂之力，讓可穿戴產(chǎn)品賣(mài)出更高價(jià)格。

“‘哦，我的老天！這件東西美不勝收！我打算買(mǎi)它！'這種情之所至的沖動(dòng)會(huì)讓消費(fèi)者對(duì)價(jià)格不屑一顧”。

詞匯總結(jié)

foray ['f?re?]

n.涉足，初次嘗試；突襲；侵略；攻擊

vi.襲擊

vt.劫掠

Earlier this month during New York Fashion Week Michael Kors announced its first foray into wearable tech.In partnership with Google.

九月初的紐約時(shí)裝周期間，邁克·科爾斯首次宣布進(jìn)軍高科技可穿戴設(shè)備領(lǐng)域。在自己最暢銷的analogue指針系列手表基礎(chǔ)上，它與谷歌合作推出了一款智能腕表。

collaboration [k?l?b?'re??n]

n.合作

These collaborations are an essential part of the company's future.

與時(shí)尚公司的合作對(duì)谷歌未來(lái)的發(fā)展至關(guān)重要。

high-end ['ha??nd]

adj.高端的；高檔的

Google gets access to a younger, more image-focused market and all the benefits of a high-end marketing campaign.

谷歌的受眾是那些形象至上的年輕人，也是高端營(yíng)銷活動(dòng)的最大受益者。

garment ['gɑ?m(?)nt]

n.衣服，服裝；外表，外觀

vt.給…穿衣服

We are not very good at technology and they are not very good at garments.

高科技并非我們的強(qiáng)項(xiàng)，而服裝也不是谷歌的強(qiáng)項(xiàng)。

uptake ['?pte?k]

n.攝?。活I(lǐng)會(huì)；舉起

But thus far widespread uptake of such technologies has been slow.

但迄今為止，對(duì)此類高科技時(shí)裝的市場(chǎng)認(rèn)同度仍然相當(dāng)?shù)汀?/p>